-Title-
Diseases of African Violets. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/4/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1002
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip n1002, "Diseases
of African Violets."
   African violets have few diseases that are a problem, but a few can
be troublesome.
   Botrytis blight can damage leaves and flowers.  A water-soaked
lesion on the underside of leaf petioles near the pot rim is one of the
first symptoms.  The lesion can enlarge, turn brown or black, and kill
the leaf.  Flowers may look water-soaked and fade prematurely.
Botrytis blight is more of a problem under crowded conditions, high
humidity, poor air circulation and low light intensity.  You can reduce
the damage caused by this disease by spacing plants, providing good
air movement, and removing any diseased or dead plant material.
   Root and crown rot is another disease of African violets.
Symptoms include a wilting of the leaves.  The top part of the plant
may decay and turn brown.  Also, even when these symptoms aren't
present, you may be able to lift the top from the soil easily because
the crown of the plant has rotted off at the soil line.  In other
plants, the crown may be killed and the leaves and petioles begin
decaying.
   Root and crown rot shouldn't be a problem if you use a sterilized
rooting medium and potting soil.  If a prized plant becomes infected,
you may be able to save it if you discover the disease before it
affects the crown.  Remove the diseased portion from the crown,
cutting it well above the decaying area.  Re-root the crown in water
or any sterile potting medium. 
Root-knot nematodes damage African violets occasionally.  Roots                 
will have galls, or knots, on them.  Crowns can be distorted and
leaves thickened in spots, and blister like galls may appear.  Affected
plants are weak and don't grow well.  If you use a sterilized rooting
medium and soil, root-knot nematodes won't be a problem.
   Two other problems not caused by disease are called petiole rot
and ring spot.  Petiole rot is caused by an accumulation of salts on
the pot rim or soil surface.  Leaf petioles which touch these salts can
die.  You can prevent petiole rot by avoiding excess fertilizer and by
flushing the soil occasionally with heavy watering.
   Ring spot is another problem.  Affected leaves have white, yellow
or brown rings.  Spots are caused when cold water gets on the leaves
or when the sun shines on wet leaves.  Water African violets carefully
or water from the bottom of the pot.  Also, use water slightly warmer
than air temperature.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Avocado 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1003
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1003,
"Avocado".
   The first thing you need to do to grow an avocado plant is to
germinate the seed.  You can germinate an avocado seed in a glass of
water or in a moist porous soil mixture.  Either of these methods
works, but the soil method is usually faster.
   If you decide to sprout the seed in water, put three or four
toothpicks in the side of the seed about half way down.  The
toothpicks will support the seed while it is suspended in the water.
Place the seed--flat end down--so that the lower half of the flat end
is covered with water.  The sprouting tip of the avocado seed is the
pointed end...so, be certain the flat end is suspended in the water.
   Put your glass or jar of water in a window that gets a good bit of
sunshine.  Add enough water to keep the bottom half of the seed in
water all the time.
   After a few weeks, you should see small roots appearing in the
water.  And...there should be signs of a small tender shoot at the
pointed end.  Tiny leaves will develop and grow on this shoot.  Later
the main stem will push through the top and that's when you plant
the seed in a mixture of garden loam and peat moss.
   To grow an avocado seed in soil, fill a large clay pot with the soil
mixture just mentioned...equal parts of good garden loam and compost
or peat moss.  Then plant the seed just deep enough so that the
pointed end is about an inch above the soil line.  You must keep the
soil moist all the time.
   After the avocado plant is well on its way...it will thrive with
ordinary attention to water, fertilizer and light.
 
You'll need to water the plant often enough to keep the soil evenly   l         
moist.  Over-watered avocados will develop curled leaves and soft
stems.  Under-watered avocados will wilt and develop dried leaves that
will eventually fall off.
   As for fertilizing the avocado...apply light amounts of a houseplant
fertilizer about every three months.  Also, remember that the plant
requires good, indirect light and protection from frost.
   The avocado will grow into a tree...so, you'll need enough space for
it to grow and mature.  If you don't have room for it in your house
you may need to start a new one every three or four years.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Bromeliads. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1004
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1004,
"Bromeliads."
   Bromeliads are natives of tropical America and are members of a
large family whose best known member is the pineapple.  Bromeliads
are quite common in Central and South America and can be found
there growing in trees or attached to rocks or living on the forest
floor.  They can be any size from one inch high to thirty-five feet
high.
   Bromeliads have a double appeal...their foliage and their flowering
stalks.  Some of the leaves have various kinds of bands in different
color patterns on them.  Many people consider the stalks very
beautiful too because they are unique, vivid and bold.
   Bromeliads need plenty of light to develop good growth and
flowers.  Use only those parts of your house that have good light to
grow bromeliads.  You can use artificial light...fluorescent lights with a
minimum of four 40-watt parallel tubes are the best source of
articifical light.  The light should be six to twenty-four inches above
the plants and they should stay on about fifteen hours a day.
   Most bromeliads have a natural reservoir for water that is formed
when the leaves are arranged in a rosette with the bases overlapping.
By keeping this reservoir filled with water, the bromeliad plants will
get all the water they need.  Too often, if you put water in the
growing medium...the plants get root rot.  Bromeliads thrive on several
sprayings of water every day.
   Bromeliads originated in the tropics so you need to pay some
attention to the temperatures they grow in.  The maximum for
bromeliads during the day is seventy degrees and the maximum at
night should be about fifty-five or sixty degrees.
 
You can fertilize bromeliads about once every four weeks with a   veralh a      
weak solution of an all-purpose soluble fertilizer.  This diluted
fertilizer can be put directly in the receptacle or reservoir in the
center of the leaves.  You should fertilize the root area even less
frequently than this.
   The material the plants grow in should be non-alkaline and it
should be able to supply moisture without getting soggy.  It should be
porous enough to let the water drain off easily and to let air reach
the roots.
   Bromeliads can be made to bloom quite easily.  Just take a healthy,
mature bromeliad with a good root system, drain all the water from
the cup and then put it in a transparent air-tight plastic bag with a
large ripe apple.  Ripe apples give off a gas called ethylene which
triggers flower formation on bromeliads.  After four or five days, take
the plant from the bag and replace the water in the cup.  Depending
on the type of bromeliad...the plant will start to flower in six to
fourteen weeks.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Ferns. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1006
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1006,
"Ferns."
   Your ferns need a soil that's light enough to let excessive water
drain off.  Also, the soil should have enough organic matter such as
leaf mold, humus or peat moss.  This will help the soil keep the
moisture at a constant level.
   A good soil for ferns can be made with two parts sharp builders
sand...two parts loamy soil...two parts peat moss or leaf mold...one-half
part dried cow manure and a five inch pot of bone meal for each
bushel of mixture.
   You really shouldn't let your ferns dry out because if they do...the
tender fronds will dehydrate and die...then, later the plant itself will
die.  The moisture range for ferns runs from the dry side for
asparagus ferns to wet for maidenhair ferns.  Many ferns such as the
Boston types require soil that is constantly moist.
   A good way to water Boston ferns is to place the fern in a saucer
of water.  A relative humidity of fifty per cent is ideal for ferns--and
water evaporating from the saucer will improve the humidity.
   Most ferns can't stand rough handling...so place them where people
won't be brushing against them.  If you put them outside during the
summer...you should put them in dark shade or on the north side of
your house.
 
When your ferns outgrow their pots they'll need to be divided, but   andfa      
this should be done only in the spring.  After you take a fern out of
its pot, use a sharp, long-bladed knife to cut the root ball in halves
or in quarters.  Then separate each piece so you can spread the roots
in the new soil.  The main thing you need to do when you divide your
ferns is be sure to water the roots and the new soil thoroughly.
Also, if at all possible, create for it a humid atmosphere by misting it
for the first few weeks.
   You will need to fertilize your ferns...but you should do it
carefully.  Most ferns should be fertilized every month from April to
September.  You should fertilize them every two months during the
rest of the year.  Use only a half of what the manufacturers of the
fertilizer recommend.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Geraniums, House Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1007
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1007,
"Geraniums, House Plants."
   Geraniums are popular house plants.  They can be bought in various
stages of growth and in many kinds of containers.  The most popular
plants are eight to twelve inches high, have two or three branches
and several flower heads.  They are usually in four-inch pots.  The
most popular colors are white, pink, rose scarlet, rose lavender and
deep red.
   You can plant geraniums in window boxes, tubs or other large
containers.  Use a soil that is well drained and high in organic matter.
A good mixture might have equal parts of soil, sphagnum peat moss
and perlite or coarse sand.  Geraniums develop better roots when they
are set in a soil mixture similar to that in which they were grown.
Be sure containers have one or more drainage holes, and be sure the
drainage holes aren't plugged up.
   Inspect plants daily to be sure they have enough water.  Water
them until water drains from the bottom of the container.  This helps
make sure roots can penetrate all of the soil.  Water only as needed,
checking the soil for dryness to a depth of four to six inches.
   Soluble fertilizers are best for plants grown in containers.  Many
brands are available.  Use them according to directions, and be sure
the soil is moist when you apply fertilizer.
   If you bought a geranium that has a dense, compacted root system,
loosen the roots gently when you transplant it. 
Geraniums grown indoors in winter may develop weak stems.  To                   
prevent this, keep plants in a sunny window and pinch them back
occasionally.  This encourages bushy growth.  If strong natural light
isn't available, use artificial light.  Place plants 12 inches beneath a
40-watt, daylight cool fluorescent bulb for satisfactory results.
   Cool homes in winter aren't a problem for geraniums.  They thrive
when night temperatures are between 55 and 60 degrees and when day
temperatures are 10 to 15 degrees higher.  Don't place them near
heating or air conditioning registers.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Jade Plant. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1008
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1008,
"Jade Plant."
   Jade plants seem to prefer temperatures that get no lower than
fifty degrees at night and then stay between sixty-five and seventy-
five degrees during the day.  If you set your plants in or near
windows you should protect them when the outside temperatures drop
below fifty...protect them by pulling the shades or by putting
newspaper between the plants and the window.
   Jade plants seem to like plenty of light.  A plant that gets a lot of
sunshine can tolerate higher temperatures than a plant growing in
poor light.  If you need to put your plants in darker places and you
can't use artificial light, you should rotate these plants with those
plants growing in better light.
   As for watering, keep the soil uniformly moist...but not wet during
the warm months and fairly dry during the winter.  Soak the soil, but
don't water more often than is necessary...overwatering tends to make
the roots rot.  However, you should know that too little water can
cause dwarfing, foliage spotting, leaf droppage, and eventual death of
the plant.  The water should be at room temperature and it should be
applied in the morning whenever possible.
   You'll need to fertilize your jade plant about once every three
months.  The easiest way to apply the fertilizer in a liquid form.  If
you use a soluble fertilizer be sure you follow the manufacturer's
recommendations.  Also, never apply fertilizer to a dry soil because
you could injure the roots.
   Jade plants usually grow best in a soil mixture that is made of
fifty percent organic matter and twenty-five percent sharp sand.  At
least half of the organic matter should be peat moss.
 
One way to tell if your jade plants need to be repotted is if they   fof        
need water more than once every twenty-four hours.  If you find you
do need to transplant your jade plant, put some soil in the bottom of
the pot and firm the soil around the old root ball.  Leave enough
room in the top of the pot for proper watering.  Water the soil
thoroughly at first and don't water the plant again until the soil dries
out on top.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Orchids. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1010
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1010,
"Orchids."
   Most types of orchids can adjust to a wide range of cultural
practices and environments.
   If you're just beginning your orchid collection, perhaps the one you
will want to choose is the showy Cattleya.  Then later you can expand
to other types such as the Laelias, Oncidiums and Epidendrums.  All of
these do well in homes.  In fact, you can even raise orchid seedlings
and sow your own seed.
   Orchids need the same temperatures as most other house plants.
The night temperatures should not get below fifty-five degrees and the
day temperatures should be about ten to fifteen degrees higher.  Don't
put your orchids near windows when the weather outside is extremely
cold.
   The amount of moisture in the air is very important for orchids.
Since the air in most modern homes is relatively dry, you will need to
spray them several times a day with a fine mist.  Another...easier...way
to water plants is to put them on a tray of water with one or two
inches of pebbles that support the pots above the water.
   Also, when it comes to watering orchids, the potting medium should
be moist while the plant is growing and producing flowers.  Plants
growing in more open bark mixes may need watering more often than
those growing in the conventional Osmunda fern root material.
   Watering your orchids twice a week will usually be often enough if
they're kept where the humidity is relatively high.  During the summer
you may need to water them everyday.
 
Some people believe that you don't need to fertilize orchids...but   ray        
you do need to fertilize them and regularly.  You should use a soluble
fertilizer such as 30-10-10 or 20-20-20 at least twice a month during
the warm months.  Be sure you follow the recommendations of the
fertilize manufacturer.
   Orchids usually do well when you put them outdoors during the
summer.  You can hang them in trees where they'll get filtered light
during the middle of the day and direct sunlight in the early morning
and late afternoon.
   You orchids will produce excellent flowers under artificial light.  A
combination of forty-watt standard cool white and deluxe warm
fluorescent bulbs seem to work well.  You should put the plants as
close to the light as possible without burning the leaves.  Keep the
lights on about fourteen hours a day.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Piggyback Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1012
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1012,
"Piggyback Plants."
   The piggyback plant is something of a curiosity for home owners.
Part of its popularity is attributed to its durability and the ease
with which it is grown.
   The piggyback plant has fresh green leaves and long stems that
form a wide-spreading rosette.  It's used mainly in hanging baskets
because it has a tendency to cascade.  Smaller plants can be grown
in regular plastic or clay pots and then shifted to a hanging basket
later.  You'll probably want to put it in a eight or ten inch pot
when you transplant it.
   New plants develop at the base of every leaf and you can easily
root these and start more plants.  An easy way to root the piggyback
plant plants is to put the cutting or leaf into a pot of well-
drained soil...water it well and then put it in a plastic bag.  Tie
the top of the plastic bag and put it in indirect light.  The
rooting should take only two or three weeks.
   You can grow the piggyback plant in bright, moderate or low light
levels.  However, to keep from burning the leaves, you should not
put the piggyback plant in full sunlight.  Actually, the best place
for it is in an east or west window.  You can take the piggyback
plant outside in the middle of May and you should bring it back
indoors for the winter in late September.
   The soil for the piggyback plant should be kept evenly moist.
You'll want to check your plants every day and water them whenever
they need it.  If the soil feels dry, give the plant enough water so
that some of it drips from the base of the container.  Don't get
water on the leaves, especially during the hottest part of the day.
 
The piggyback plant will grow in a wide range of temperatures.   y.o.  A        
The average daily temperature should be above seventy degrees.  The
night temperatures can drop to between fifty and sixty degrees.
   The piggyback plant grows continuously during the year and
requires no dormant period.  So...it will need to be fertilized
regularly.  Fertilize your piggyback plant every month between May
and September and every six to eight weeks during the rest of the
year.  Use a complete, soluble fertilizer that is made for house
plants and the follow the manufacturer's recommendations.  Apply
enough fertilizer solution so that some of it drips from the base of
the container.
   Your piggyback plant may have some problems with spider mites.
They cause a yellowing and eventual browning of the leaves.  You
might find a fine web on plants severely infested with the insects.
You should try to control spider mites whenever you see the first
signs of them.  You should spray the piggyback plant with the
insecticides Malathion or Diazinon.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Rubber Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1014
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1014,
"Rubber Plants."
   The rubber plant grows well in a variety of conditions and is more
likely to outgrow its home than it is to die.
   The rubber plant likes warm temperatures...at night about sixty-five
degrees...and during the day about eighty degrees or more.  It adapts
quite easily to household or office temperatures provided they aren't
too cold.
   The rubber plant needs fairly rich soil and plenty of organic
matter.  A good soil mixture includes three parts peat and one part
perlite.  Another good mixture is one part peat, one part coarse sand,
and two parts fine pine bark.  Re-pot the plant when it needs
watering everyday or when it gets to be too big for its container.
   As for fertilization...you should apply a soluble fertilizer once a
month if the plant is exposed to a lot of light.  If it gets only
medium light you should fertilize it only every two months.
   If the rubber tree is cared for properly, its leaves will stay glossy
looking.  You'll need to gently wipe the leaves once in a while with a
moist tissue or soft cloth.  You can even use soap and water for spots
that are hard to remove.  Also, if you like for the leaves of your
rubber tree to look shiny you can wipe the leaves with a cloth
moistened with milk.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Schefflera. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/24/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1015
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1015,
"Schefflera."
   You're likely to see large scheffleras in public places such as
lobbies, shopping malls and waiting rooms.  The smaller plants are
more suitable for homes or offices.
   Scheffleras need medium to high levels of light.  So, as a rule of
thumb, put your plants in a place that would be bright enough for you
to read during the daytime without straining your eyes.
   Scheffleras usually require water when the soil surface looks dry.
Water the plant thoroughly so that at least ten percent of the water
you put in the pot drips through the drainage holes in the bottom of
the pot.  You should try to prevent root rot by avoiding wet soils.
   The temperature of the water is really important for tropical plants
such as the schefflera.  The water should be at room temperature and
it should be applied in the morning whenever possible.  However, don't
let the plant stand in water.
   Scheffleras thrive at temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees.  You
should try to keep the plant away from hot air registers, radiators,
open windows and air conditioners.
   Plants grown in intense light should be fertilized once a month.
Plants in medium light should be fertilized once every two to three
months.  If you use a soluble fertilizer, follow the manufacturer's
directions.  Never apply fertilizer to a dry soil.
   For more gardening information or suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Spider Plant. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/24/82
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1017
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1017,
"Spider Plant."
   The spider plant should be grown in diffused sunlight or partial
shade.  Exposure to full sunlight could burn the leaves.
   The soil mixture for spider plants should be kept moist but not
soaking wet.  There really is no schedule for watering the spider plant
because when and how much you water depends on the type and size
of the plant and the stage of growth that it's in.  You'll probably
want to check your spider plants everyday and then water them
whenever they need it.
   Spider plants grow best if the temperature is between 65 and 80
degrees.  But they can tolerate temperatures as low as 40 degrees.
During the winter you should protect those plants near windows by
pulling the shades or drapes or by placing newspaper between the
plants and the window.
   A complete soluble fertilizer should be applied twice a month if the
plants are growing in intense light during the summer and once a
month during the winter.  Be sure you follow the directions on the
label of the fertilizer.
   Leaf tip burn is a serious problem of the spider plant.  Perlite in
the soil can cause this.  It's the fluoride in the perlite that causes the
browning of the leaves.  Also, contributing to the leaf tip burn
problems are such things as dry soil, too much fertilizer and a lack of
calcium.  You can add calcium in the form of limestone at the rate of
two teaspoons to each six inch pot.
   Flower stalks sprout from the base of the plant and individual
planters develop at the point of attachment of each flower.  They can
be left on the plant or removed and potted separately to form new
plants.
 
For more gardening information or suggestions, call the county    canofthe      
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Zebra Plant. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/24/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1018
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1018,
"Zebra Plant."
   Zebra plants usually grow best in a soil mixture containing fifty
percent organic matter.  At least half of this organic matter should
be peat moss, since most other sources may be too rich in nutrients.
   A zebra plant needs to be kept moist...because if it drys out it
will die.  Enough water should be combined with good drainage.
   The zebra plant likes a room that is warm and humid.  It's a
tropical plant and it needs night temperatures of between 65 and 70
degrees...and day temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees.
   The plant will retain its lustrous foliage if it's fertilized
regularly...preferably every ten to fourteen days.  You should use a
balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20.  Follow the manufacturer's
recommendations.  Over-fertilization may cause the plant to grow
more slowly...or stunting...or burned, dried leaf margins or wilted
and even dead plants. Too little fertilizer may result in pale
foliage, leaf loss, few flowers, or shortened and hardened plants.
   The zebra plant must have good, strong, diffused light.  Direct
sunlight will burn the foliage.  With low light, the plant will not
flower or grow properly.
   You'll need to repot your zebra plant about once a year until it
finally gets to the largest size pot.  A rich soil is needed...a
good combination is one-fourth peat moss and three-fourths rich
loam.
 
If you want to show off the plants' beauty...use a soft, damp rag   nofthe      
to clean the leaves.  You can even use a leaf polish if you like.
   For more gardening information or suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Artificial Light for House Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1019
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1019,
"Artificial Light for House Plants."
   For house plants to thrive in artificial light, they need light of a
certain color, brightness and length of time.
   Light color is important when plants are growing under artificial
light.  They need light in the blue and red portions of the color
spectrum.  Common incandescent bulbs don't have enough blue, so
plants grown under them have long, weak stems, few leaves, and are
usually pale green.  Ordinary fluorescent lamps don't have enough red.
Plants grown under them are shrubby and have unusually dark leaves.
   Plants grown under artificial light will grow very well under a
mixture of light from cool white fluorescent and incandescent lamps.
A good rule is to have 30 percent of the wattage from incandescent
bulbs and 70 percent from fluorescent.  If you want to build your own
fixture, use two 40-watt cool white fluorescent tubes and 24 watts
from an incandescent source.  An alternative is to buy a fixture
designed especially for lighting plants.
   The level--or brightness--of light required for house plants is
important, too.  Light is measured in footcandles, and the light in
most homes seldom exceeds 100 footcandles.  A few house plants can
tolerate low levels of light if they're not in a dark corner.  These
include aluminum plants, pepperomia, most ferns, most palms and some
philodendrons.
   Most house plants need additional light to survive long in the
average home.  Older plants will shed leaves when they don't get
enough light.  New leaves which develop under low light conditions
are smaller and thinner. 
The plant growth lights which you can buy, and those you make,                  
will provide about 800 or 900 footcandles of light six to eight inches
from the source.  This is enough for the African violet, avocado,
geranium, cacti, gloxinia, Norfolk Island pine, orchid, poinsettia, citrus,
coleus, impatiens and most succulents.
   From 400 to 600 footcandles are enough for most bromeliads, jade
plants, some palms, most philodendrons, piggyback plants, rubber
plants, scheffleras, some succulents, zebra plants, spider plants, grape
ivy, dumbcane, wax plants, prayer plants and some ferns.
   Nine or 10 hours of light each day is generally enough for most
house plants.  But, if you are trying to get certain plants to bloom,
such as chrysanthemum or poinsettia, the lighting needs are specific.
   One final word on using artificial light for house plants:  If you're
trying only to maintain plants until you can get them back outside in
the spring, lighting can be less than ideal.  But if you want to keep
them growing rapidly and flowering profusely, you'll have to pay
attention to the quality, level or length of light specific plants need.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Common House plant Pests. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1020
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1020, "Common House plant Pests."
   Most of the insects which attack house plants, come from outside.
The most common group of these pests is scales and mealybugs.
Mealybugs are pink with white waxy filaments either decorating or
trailing from the body.  The most noticeable thing about them is the
fluffy, ragged, egg mass they usually lay in the joints between leaves
and stems or on the bottom side of leaves.  Mealybugs reproduce quite
easily and usually are difficult to control.
   Other scale insects are small oval or circular, brown specimens on
the foliage or stems.  Generally, you'll see them in large masses on
the plant.  One indication of an infestation is the shiny, sticky fluid
which the scales excrete on the plant or surrounding materials.  This
fluid...called honey dew...is the excess food the scale sucks out of the
plants.  This honey dew has a lot of sugar in it and provides an ideal
place for sootymold to grow.  Sootymold is the black fungus-type
growth that develops on the scale excretions.
   Mites also show up on house plants.  They're small spider-like
insects which cause a fading-type damage which results in the
bleaching of the foliage.  Eventually, the foliage will fall from the
plant.
   Several other insects also create problems for house plants, but
most of them are organic feeders or predators or other small insects.
These include springtails, fungus gnats and earwigs.
   Springtails are small insects you usually see jumping on the soil at
watering.  Fungus gnats are small, black, organic-feeding flies.
Earwigs are small, elongated, black or dark brown insects with the
pincers on the end of the abdomen.  These pincers are not likely to
hurt you.
 
Other pests may infest house plants are not insects...but are closely   us,     
related.  These include millipedes, centipedes, sow bugs and slugs.
The slugs are usually the only damaging pest because they feed on the
flowers and foliage of several plants.
   If you want more information and suggestions about controlling
insects in and around you home, call the county agent in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Container Plants, Summer Care. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/l7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1022
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1022,
"Container Plants, Summer Care."
   Container-grown plants grow well during the summer and as a
result require considerable attention.
   The most important thing you can do for your container plants
during the summer is be sure they get the water they need.  If the
containers have a good loose planting mix, you'll hardly ever over-
water the plants.  In fact, the most frequent problem is under-
watering.  One or two days without watering some plants may injure
or destroy them.
   How you put the water on the plant is important.  You need to
break the force of the water by using a breaker nozzle or letting the
water run through your fingers.  The hard, direct force of water on
the soil may wash some of it away from the roots or it may pack the
soil.
   Container plants need frequent applications of fertilizer during the
summer because this is the time they're really growing.  The most
effective fertilizer is usually a liquid fertilizer but other types can be
used.
   You can apply fertilizer as often as every two weeks during the
summer...but be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions.
   One word of caution:  you should reduce the amount and frequency
of applications for some flowering plants such as hibiscus and
bougainvillea.  A slight fertilizer stress will actually cause some
flowering plants to produce more flower buds. 
If you would like to have more information about taking care of                 
your container-grown plants or if you would like to have a free
pamphlet called "Container Plants in the Landscape," call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
 
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperative            
-End-
-Title-
Fertilizing Indoor Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1025
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1025,
"Fertilizing Indoor Plants."
   Many people over-fertilize indoor plants.  Too much fertilizer can
be harmful to plants.  In fact, it can kill them.
   Indoor plants need to be fed often, but in small amounts.  The
type, size and rate of growth desired should determine when to
fertilize indoor plants.  Plants grown indoors can be fed daily or every
three or four days.  The potting mixture will determine how often you
need to fertilize plants.  If plants are growing in a container that is
mostly bark, you'll need to fertilize them often.  If you feed plants
daily, use only one-third of the fertilizer you'd use if you fed them
every three days.
   Use a water-soluble fertilizer with a low salt or burn index to feed
indoor plants.  It can be a soluble solid or liquid fertilizer.  Most
indoor plants need a fertilizer high in nitrogen as compared to
phosphate and potash, for example, a 12-4-4 fertilizer.
   You should know that one-third teaspoon of fertilizer in a
container holding one gallon of soil is equal to applying 500 pounds
per acre, or 11.5 pounds per 1,000 square feet.  A good way to
prepare fertilizer for indoor plants is to put one teaspoon of fertilizer
in a quart of water and use only a teaspoon of this mixture in a six
inch pot.
   Remember to fertilize your indoor plants, but don't overdo it.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Moving Plants Indoors for the Winter. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1028
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1028,
"Moving Plants Indoors for the Winter."
   Autumn means cooler weather...and with the change of seasons you
may be preparing for the cold months of winter.  Part of your
preparation should include bringing your potted plants indoors.
Unfortunately, bringing plants indoors also brings insects indoors.
Insects may move onto your plants while they're outdoors during the
winter because of a lack of other food.
   When you bring your plants indoors to protect them, you also
protect any insects that happen to be on them.
   It's important that you carefully check your plants for insects
before you bring them inside because once they get inside, they feed
and multiply as though they were still outside.  Look for mealybugs,
scales, mites, whiteflies, snails and slugs.  Turn over leaves on each
plant and check all the stems...remove any litter on the top of the
soil.  Then to be on the safe side, you can use one of the aerosol
insecticides for indoor plants.
   Even with such measures some insects can get by, so for the first
month or two after you bring in your plants, spot check them every
week or ten days.  This way if you missed any the first time around,
you'll have another chance to get them before they do any serious
damage.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Indoor Plants," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Causes of Spotted Leaves. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/4/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1030
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1030,
"Causes of Spotted Leaves."
   Spots that appear on leaves of shrubs and trees may be caused by
fungi.  The spots can be tiny or large, circular or irregular, and may
cause color changes in affected areas of leaves.
   Many fungi can cause spotted leaves.  Most of these fungi have
spores that are carried by wind and rain.  The spores land on a leaf,
start to grow, and cause a spot to form.  Most plants aren't damaged
seriously if spots appear.  If leaves are damaged seriously, the plants
will simply shed them.  Spots often develop on older leaves which will
be shed anyway.  Under adverse conditions, such as prolonged rainy
periods, leaf spotting fungi can cause complete defoliation of some
plants.
   It's hard for the average homeowner to treat trees with protective
fungicides.  You must place these materials on trees before the spores
of leaf-spotting fungi can infect them.  It's hard to give good
coverage to a tree, especially if it's tall.  You must use special
sprayers to reach top parts of trees.  Another problem:  You must
keep these protective fungicides on trees constantly to prevent the
leaf-spotting fungi from getting started.  This means spraying regularly
for several months.  Unless the tree is valuable, it's not worth the
time and expense.
   You can spray shrubs and small fruit trees successfully with hand
sprayers.  If you have very susceptible plants, consider treating them.
When spraying the plants, be sure you cover the tops and bottoms of
leaves well.  
The fungicides don't kill fungal spores, but they do keep them from             
developing.  You'll need to cover all exposed areas to ensure that
infection won't take place.  Because most fungicides don't kill the
fungi, they won't be effective once the fungus enters the leaf.  That's
why it's necessary to spray regularly to protect plants.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the plants in
your landscape, call the county agent or home economist in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Yellow Leaves, Causes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/16/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1031
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1031,
"Yellow Leaves, Causes."
   When the leaves of a houseplant turn yellow, something is wrong
with the plant.  Without help, it may die.  Yellow leaves could mean
the plant needs nutrients or fertilizer.  It could mean the soil pH is
too low or too high.  Yellow leaves may mean the plant needs more
water -- or less.  Diseases or insects may have harmed the plant.  Or,
a combination of any of these problems could be to blame.
   The potting mixture of houseplants should allow excess water to
move through the container and out of it.  Plants that get too much
water may develop a yellowing of the leaf veins and the leaf tissue
along the veins.  This yellowing is caused when the roots don't get
enough oxygen.
   A general yellowing of the entire leaf is probably caused by low
nitrogen.  Try increasing the nitrogen fertilizer.  A yellowing of leaf
margins followed by a browning of the margin may indicate salt burn
from too much fertilizer.  Reduce the level of fertilizer used and flush
the potting mixture with excessive water.  This will help remove
fertilizer salts.
   High pH caused by too much lime can induce iron deficiency.  If
iron is limited, the leaf area between the veins will become yellow,
but the leaf veins will remain green.  This condition is called iron
chlorosis.  It can be cured by adding a little iron chelate to the
mixture.  Only minute quantities of this material are needed.  Put it
in the potting soil or spray it on the plant in a weak solution.  If you
spray, repeat application in two or three days, then every two or
three weeks as needed. 
If the leaves of your houseplants are yellowing, review how you've              
treated the plants.  You may be able to solve the problem and save
the plants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Indoor Plants," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Re-potting House Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1032
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1032,
"Re-potting House Plants."
   Both spring and fall are good times to re-pot your house plants.
Re-potting gives their roots a chance to spread and it provides them
with new soil in which to grow.
   How often you re-pot your plants depends on how fast the plants
grow.  Active plants may need larger pots every year while the slower
growing plants may need repotting only every two or three years.
When you do re-pot, though, you should go up one pot size each time.
   Here's how you go about repotting a plant.  Several hours before
you're ready to re-pot the plant...water it thoroughly.  After you've
waited the several hours, turn the pot and the plant upside down and
gently tap the pot to loosen the plant from the container.  Never pull
a plant and its soil ball out by the stem.
   If the roots of the plant are heavily matted, loosen the ball to
remove about half the old outer soil.  This will encourage new roots
to grow away from the tight circular pattern.
   Soil for house plants must drain well.  A good potting mixture is
one that contains enough organic matter and coarse soil particles to
allow good drainage and enough air for the roots to form and grow
well.  Most house plants will grow in a soil made of five parts of
good garden loam soil, four parts peat moss or leaf mold and one part
sharp builder's sand.
 
After the plant has been removed from the pot and the soil is    partl          
prepared, place the plant in the new pot, holding it at about the same
depth it was in the old pot.  Add potting mixture around the plant,
gently packing it to eliminate air pockets.  You need to leave at least
a half inch of space at the top of the container for water.
   After the plant is re-potted, water it thoroughly and don't wet it
again until the surface becomes slightly dry.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Indoor Plants," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Agapanthus. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1102
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1102,
"Agapanthus."
   Agapanthus...also called African Lily and Lily of the Nile...bears
large, round heads of blue or white flowers on long, stout stems
during May.  It comes in standard and dwarf varieties.  The
evergreen leaves of the standard varieties are long and strap-shaped
and look like large amaryllis leaves.  The stem holding the head of
flowers may be three feet long or longer.  The dwarf varieties...called
"Peter Pan" are about half the size of the standard varieties.
   Lily of the Nile is commonly grown in ground beds in south
Louisiana where the temperature doesn't usually get much lower than
18 degrees.  However, in areas where the temperatures drop below 18
degrees, the Lily of the Nile may be grown in large wooden or plastic
containers.  Container-grown plants can be placed outside in a sunny
spot or in a spot with some shade...but only after the danger of hard
freezes has passed.
   The Lily of the Nile needs a well-drained, humus type soil.  The
ideal mixture would be made of two parts loamy soil, one part leaf
mold, and one part well-decayed manure.
   During the summer, be prepared to give the Lily of the Nile plenty
of water.  During the winter give it just enough to keep the soil from
becoming very dry.
   When the Lily of the Nile is grown in containers, it should receive
liquid fertilizer once a week.  When it's grown in a bed, you should
fertilize it once in the spring, once in early summer and once in the
fall.
   Lily of the Nile blooms freely in pots and ground beds when they
become crowded and it may stay in the same container or bed for
years.           However, the Lily of the Nile may be dug and
divided anytime during the warm months...the best time is during
August.
   If you would like to have more information about growing
agapanthus, call the county agent or home economist in your parish
office of the LSU Cooperative Extension service.
                               
 
                               xtension service.ist in your parishyheed         
-End-
-Title-
Azaleas, Summer Care. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1104
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1104,
"Azaleas, Summer Care."
   During the summer after azaleas have bloomed and the weather is
getting hotter, your azalea plants may begin showing symptoms of
illness...symptoms you can and should give some attention.
   The most common problem of azaleas during the late spring and
early summer is chlorosis.  Chlorosis causes the parts of the leaves
between the vein to turn yellow while the veins stay dark green.
Chlorosis is caused by too little iron and can be corrected by adding
aluminum sulfate to the soil.  You should apply the aluminum sulfate
at the rate of about one-fourth to one-half pound for every square
yard of soil surface.  Be careful not to put more than that at any
one time because the chemical could injure the plant.  You should not
apply aluminum sulfate more than every six weeks and it should be
stopped when the chlorosis has cleared up.
   There is also a temporary way to get rid of chlorosis.  You can
spray the leaves of your azaleas with a solution containing chelated
iron.  Follow the directions on the container.
   Your azaleas need to get enough water during the summer.  You
should watch for wilting during the hot, dry weather.  A good,
thorough soaking of the soil around the roots once a week should be
enough to keep your azaleas going.  A mulch of pine needles or
compost will help keep the moisture in the soil.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Azaleas," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               ooperative Extension Service.nomist ined         
-End-
-Title-
Begonias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  New Orleans Only

                           TeleTip ll06
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number ll06,
"Begonias."
   Begonias produce color...and lots of it.  The versatility of begonias
has been increased by the introduction of hybrid fibrous begonias.
They can grow in moderate shade and in full sun.  Colors of flowers
are varied...white, pink, red, salmon, rose and bi-colors.  Flowers can
be small or as large as two inches across.  The color of the foliage
can be bronze or green.
   Fibrous begonias are used in mass plantings, in hanging baskets, in
pots and as border plants.  They'll flower all summer...in fact, until
they're killed by heavy frost.
   Begonias must be planted each year.  In New Orleans, plant them
outdoors in mid-March.  Most commercial bedding plant growers have
excellent stocky plants in small containers.  They're easy to set out
with a minimum of plant shock.
   To prepare the planting area, apply a complete fertilizer such as 8-
8-8 at the rate of two pounds per l00 square feet.  Spade or till the
soil to a depth of eight inches...working in organic matter such as
peat moss, pine bark or sawdust.  You'll need to fertilize heavy,
vigorous, flowering begonias during the season.  Use one to two
pounds of 8-8-8 per l00 square feet of growing area.  Water the area
thoroughly after fertilizing.
   When you're setting out begonias, lift them gently from their
containers, keeping the soil ball intact.  This helps prevent root
damage.  If the plants are growing in peat moss pots, you can plant
the pot itself.  Set the pot slightly below the soil line so it won't dry
out.  Begonias grown in mass plantings should be spaced 10 to 12
inches apart for maximum color.
 
After you've planted your begonias, water them thoroughly.  After   t dry       
that, water them only when the soil begins to dry out.  It's best to
water the plants early in the day.  Deep, healthy root systems develop
with thorough watering.  Water at the soil level instead of sprinkling.
Water left on foliage overnight encourages disease.
   Fibrous begonias benefit from mulch.  Mulching slows the
evaporation of water from the soil surface and keep weeds down.
Good mulches are pine straw, peat moss and pine bark.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
 Caladiums, Digging. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1108
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1108,"
Caladiums, Digging."
   Your caladiums should be dug, cleaned and stored for winter before
the frost and cold weather have a chance to hit them.  You'll replant
them in April.
   When you begin to dig caladiums you should loosen the soil the
caladiums are growing in and you should take the caladium bulb from
the soil with the foliage intact.  Shake most of the soil away and
then place the bulbs in a dry place and let the foliage dry down for
two or three weeks...then the foliage can be separated from the bulbs
fairly easily.
   You can clean the bulbs by washing them in water...after they're
clean, they should be air-dried for several days in a place with good
ventilation.  After the bulbs are dry, they're ready for storage.
Throw away any of the bulbs that appear to be rotten or have soft
spots.
   You should store caladium bulbs in a cool, well-ventilated place
that is not likely to freeze.  Hard freezes can break down the bulbs
and when you get ready to plant them in the spring you'll end up
with mush instead of bulbs.
   Generally, putting the bulbs in a nylon stocking or in a mesh bag
such as onion sack and hanging them in your utility room is a good
way to store them over the winter.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Caladiums, Growing. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1109
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1109,
"Caladiums, Growing."
   You can choose your caladiums in April so you'll be ready to
plant them when the nights become warmer and the days begin to look
like summer.  The caladium bulb should be planted in moderately
rich, well-prepared soil in a shaded or partially shaded location.
   The caladium is rugged, but it won't tolerate the hot summer sun.
It likes soil that is moist but not soggy.
   The caladium bulbs should be planted two inches deep and about 18
inches apart.  Pack the soil firmly around them.
   If you start your caladiums early indoors, or if you purchase
sprouted bulbs in pots, you will need to harden them to outdoor
conditions before you plant.  Harden them by gradually exposing them
to outdoor light and temperatures.
   You have a wide choice of colors of caladiums.  Regardless of the
color, caladiums are most showy and effective when you use the same
variety or color for large displays.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
 
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperativedg.ry       
-End-
-Title-
Camellias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1110
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1110,
"Camellias."
   Camellias bloom when few other plants are blooming...in late fall,
and in the winter and early spring.  Two species of camellias grow in
Louisiana.  One is called camellia japonica..the other is camellia
sasanqua.  It blooms in October and November.
   There are many varieties of camellias.  Their flowers are brilliant
shades of pink, red, and white.  There are single blooms and double
blooms, and some flowers can reach five inches in diameter.
   Camellias need a site where they get alternating sun and shade in
the summer and complete shade and protection from winds in the
winter.  A good site is under tall pine trees or on the north side of a
building.  Fall is the best time to plant camellias.
   Like other shrubs grown in the shade, camellias have shallow roots.
They don't like wet feet...so add plenty of organic matter to the
planting hole, mound the soil around the newly set plants, and mulch
heavily.  Camellias grow best in loose soil that is slightly acid...a P-H
of between 5 and 5.5 is recommended.
   During the first growing season, camellias need a light application
of fertilizer.  Apply fertilizer in the spring after growth starts.  After
the first growing season, the organic matter will probably provide
enough nutrients for the plants.  Too many homeowners over-fertilize
camellias.  This results in a loose, open growth that spoils the
compact appearance of the plant.
 
Camellias are normally pruned to a height of seven to ten feet and   After      
they're allowed to spread four to six feet.  So, if you plant them near
a building, be sure they're at least four feet from the foundation.
Space the plants about six feet apart when you're planting a hedge.
When plants mature, this will give you a dense screen.  The best time
to prune camellias is right after they have bloomed.  Make pruning
cuts back to a bud or larger branch.  Be sure to cut away all dead,
diseased or injured wood.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Camellias," call the county agent or home economist
in your parish office of the LSU Coopertive Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Chrysanthemums. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1112
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1112,
"Chrysanthemums."
   The chrysanthemums should be planted in the spring...but you'll
enjoy their flowers during the fall.
   New plants will produce the best chrysanthemums, but old plants
can be used if you divide them by cutting away the outer shoots.
   Chrysanthemums like soil that is well-drained and although they
will grow in almost any kind of soil, they perform best in soil with a
high organic content.  And, your chrysanthemums should be planted
where they will get as much sun as possible.
   If you have enough space, it's best to grow chrysanthemums in a
different spot each year.  If you don't have the space, take the old
plants out of the bed, re-work the soil, fertilize it and then reset the
plants in the same place.
   You should space the plants about twelve to twenty-four inches
apart.  You can space them further apart if you like, but they should
never be closer than twelve inches.
   The right amount of water will have more to do with whether or
not your chrysanthemums are successful than anything else.  Too little
water will slow their growth or stop it completely.  It is especially
important that they have plenty of water when they bloom.
   The amount of fertilizer your chrysanthemums need will depend on
the kind of soil they're in...but, generally, you should use from one to
one-and-a-half pounds of a complete fertilizer for every hundred feet
of growing area.  The term "complete fertilizer" means one such as 8-
8-8 or 10-10-10. 
Insect and disease on chrysanthemums are relatively few.  The                   
disease you're most likely to see on mums is septoria leaf spot.  It
causes the lower leaves to become spotted and then brown.  You can
control septorial leaf spot on your mums by spraying them every ten
to twelve days with either Phaltan or Benlate.  You should use one
tablespoon of either of these chemicals for each gallon of water.
   The insects you're likely to see on chrysanthemums are aphids and
spider mites.  They feed on the leaves by sucking out the juices.  You
can control aphids and spider mites with the insecticides Diazinon or
Malathion.  You should use two teaspoons of either of these chemicals
for each gallon of water.  You can apply the insecticide at the same
time you apply the fungicide.
   Occasionally, caterpillars will eat the leaves and flowers of
chrysanthemums.  You can control caterpillars with an insecticide dust
called Sevin.
   If you would like for your chrysanthemums to branch more and
produce more flowers, you should pinch off the top 1/4 or 1/2 inch of
the plant after it is established in the bed.  This is usually seven to
fourteen days after planting.  Do not pinch or prune chrysanthemums
after July 20.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Chrysanthemums," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
 
                                of the LSU Cooperative Extensionumsn to         
-End-
-Title-
Coleus. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/16/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1113
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1113,
"Coleus."
   Coleus is one of the most important plants you can use in the
shady parts of your garden.  Coleus also performs well in sunny areas
as long as the soil is well drained and moist.  Some of the more
interesting types of coleus developed in recent years include Fiji,
Saber, Carefree and Rainbow.  All of these have interesting leaf
colors and shapes.
   Coleus can be planted in a number of situations...in mass plantings,
as border plants...or in tubs, planters and hanging baskets.  Several of
the coleus types grow compactly since they are self-branching.  Other
types require a minimum of pinching to keep them bushy.
   Although some coleus can be started from seed, it is suggested that
you purchase your plants already started in peat pots so that you will
be able to see what kinds of leaves and color you're buying.
   Just as with other flowering bedding plants, coleus should be
planted in soil that is well drained.  Flower bed soils should be
loosened to a depth of about eight inches.  Some organic matter
should be added to the soil each year.  You shouldn't plant coleus
until after the danger of frost has passed.
   Since coleus becomes rather bushy during the growing season, you
need to leave enough room for them when you're planting them.
Usually, coleus are planted about 18 inches apart.  Don't set the small
plants too deeply.  The soil should be at the same level as that in the
bed or container in which the coleus is being planted.
 
Never allow coleus to wilt severely.  The plants need at least one   hef        
inch of water per week either from rain or irrigation.  Try not to
water the plants during the hottest part of the day.  Usually, early
morning watering is best since the leaves have a chance to dry before
night.
   As for fertilizer, you should work two pounds of 8-8-8 per 100
square feet of soil in the planting area while you are preparing the
soil.  You should apply a top dressing of about one pound of 8-8-8 per
100 square feet in mid-June and late August.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Dahlias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed: 2/15/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1115
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1115,
"Dahlias."
   The dahlia is an excellent flower for your garden because it grows
vigorously and produces a lot of beautiful flowers.  Best of all, dahlias
are relatively free of diseases and insects.  The one insect you are
likely to see on dahlias is the Japanese beetle.
   There are, of course, many small types of dahlias and many large
types.  The best way to find out what is available in your area is to
check at your nearest garden center.
   The single dahlias look like large daisies with eight petals...either
white or colored.  The collarette varieties are similar to the single
varieties, but they have an extra row of short petals around the
center disc of the flower.  Then, there are orchid-flowered dahlias
which have graceful forms with eight petals curled into attractive
pointed tubes.
   New colors and forms are also available in the double varieties.
The large decorative types have flowers which are eight to twelve
inches across.  Ball dahlias have compact round flowers from four to
six inches in diameter.  Pompom types are like small balls about two
inches or less in diameter.
   The new cactus varieties are very attractive and particularly nice
in flower arrangements.
   But, what about growing dahlias...well, dahlias grow best in deep,
fertile, well-drained soil in the sun.  Dahlias are easily damaged by
cold weather...so, the cluster of roots shouldn't be separated and
planted until after the last killing frost.
 
When you're planting dahlias, you should space them three or four   yhers       
feet apart if you want large exhibition flowers.  For small flowers in
beds or for cuttings, the plants may be about two feet apart.
   These root pieces should be planted on the side about five inches
deep. Cover them with about two inches of soil and fill the rest of
the hole as the shoots develop.
   Dahlias must have enough water if they're to grow vigorously and
produce a lot of flowers.  Using a mulch of peat moss will help
conserve soil moisture during dry periods.
   When you're planting the dahlias, fertilize them with one-half cup
of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant.  The fertilizer should be put in the soil
around the plant.
   As the dahlias begin to bloom, remove faded flowers to encourage
continuous blooming.  If you want large blooms, allow only one stalk
per root to develop.  Remove all small, weak sprouts and when the
shoot is about six inches tall, pinch it back to about the third set of
leaves to promote branching.
   Only four main branches should be allowed to develop on large
flowering varieties.  As the stems grow they should be tied to a stake
to keep them from breaking.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Daylily 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/2/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1118
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1118,
"Daylily"
   Landscapes that sparkle with beautiful arrays of daylilies aren't
happenstance, they're often the result of discarding mediocre plants
and keeping the best specimens.
   Mid-June is an excellent time to observe blooms and decide which
varieties should be tagged and retained to enhance the beauty of their
setting.  By carefully observing variety performance, flowering can be
enjoyed through late summer because some specimens produce two
seasons of bloom.
   In re-designing your landscape, keep in mind there are some
daylilies which become dormant, die back with winter's cold and return
in the spring.  Others remain green year-round.  Some evergreen
varieties include Dorcas, War Eagle, Cosette, Playboy, Quincy, Golden
Dewdrop, Grand Canyon, and Salmon Sheen.
   Besides standard varieties, there are also dwarf daylilies for border
plantings, planter boxes and other limited planting areas.  The dwarfs
grow to 18 inches while standard varieties reach three feet.
   Daylilies are popular with gardeners because they bloom well in
sunlight or filtered shade, require only a moderate amount of fertilizer
and very little care.  The plants multiply rapidly, in time overcrowd
themselves and require digging and separating.  Because of their
multiplying feature, many daylily lovers have improved their landscapes
by trading their spare plants with friends.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Geraniums, Garden Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  New Orleans Only

                           TeleTip 1124
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1124,
"Geraniums, Garden Plants."
   Geraniums are popular flowering plants because they are colorful,
easy to grow and adapt to a variety of situations.  They grow in
containers or beds.  They come in various shapes and sizes and can be
used around the house, patio and garden.
   In New Orleans, geraniums are winter-hardy in mild winters if they
are in protected locations, but they are especially lovely in spring,
summer and fall.
   Several types of geraniums can be grown in New Orleans.  Zoral,
or bedding, geraniums are used for decorative purposes in garden beds
or in containers.
   Ivy-leaved geraniums produce trailing, vine like growth which is
attractive in hanging baskets.
   Scented-leaved geraniums can be grown for their varied fragrances
and for the unusual shape of their leaves.
   Don't plant Lady Washington geraniums in New Orleans.  They will
not produce their multicolored flowers in hot weather.
   Most soils in Louisiana need a lot of organic matter to make them
suitable for geraniums.  Leafmold, compost and peat moss are good
sources of organic matter.  When preparing the beds, incorporate two
to four pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer for each 100 square feet of area.
Don't plant geraniums outdoors until danger of frost has passed.
   Although six to eight hours of sunlight each day are usually
enough, most geraniums grow and flower best in full sunlight.  In
locations with light to moderate shade, they will have fewer flowers.
Often, however, high summer temperatures cause new leaves to be
yellow and fewer flowers to be produced.         Geraniums need
large amounts of water to grow and flower well.  Apply the water to
the soil.  Don't sprinkle or splash water on the leaves.  It may be
necessary to apply fertilizer in the summer.  If so, about August 1,
apply two to three pounds of 8-8-8 per 100 square feet.  Remember:
The soil should be moist when you apply fertilizer.  If fertilizer falls
on plants, wash it off immediately or leaves will be damaged.
   For best results, apply two to three inches of mulch around plants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Gladiolus. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  New Orleans Only

                           Tele-Tip 1125
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1125,
"Gladiolus."
   Gladiola thrive best in an open, sunny location.  Don't plant bulbs
near large shrubs or trees because of shade and competition for
moisture and plant food.  It's a good idea to change the location of
gladiola plantings every year, if possible.  This will help prevent
disease.  Try not to plant galdiola on the same land for more than one
year out of four.
   The soil for gladiolus can be improved greatly by adding organic
matter.  Organic matter adds body to sandy soil, improves its capacity
to hold water, and keeps plant nutrients from being washed away.
Organic matter added to clay soil improves aeration and the general
physical condition of the soil.
   Fertilize soil with 1 to 2 pounds of 5-20-20 per 100 square feet.
Extra nitrogen may be needed later in the growing season.  Apply
one-half pound of ammonium sulfate per 100 feet of row just before
the spikes push through the leaves.
   The so-called bulb of a gladiola is really a corm (c-o-r-m).  The
gladiolus corm lives only one year, but a new corm is formed each
year on top of the old one.  A number of small corms are formed at
the base of the new corm; these are called cormels (c-o-r-m-e-l-s).
   Corms vary in size according to age and the conditions under
which they are grown.  The are graded by their diameter.
   Plant gladiola from early February to mid-March in the New
Orleans area.  Successive plantings at two-week intervals will provide
flowers for several weeks.  Space the corms six inches apart in rows
about three feet apart.  In light soils, cover large corms with four to
five inches of soil.  In heavy soils, cover the corms with three to four
inches of soil.  In summer, cultivate between the rows to keep weeds
down.  Cultivation also prevents the formation of a hard crust on the
surface.  Instead of cultivating, you may want to apply a mulch.  This,
too, will conserve moisture and prevent weeds.
   Water when the soil is beginning to dry, and be sure to give the
plants a good soaking so water will reach the root zone.
Overwatering creates ideal conditions for disease organisms, however.
   The best time to cut gladiola is in the early morning or evening.
Place blooms in water as soon as possible.  Keep them cool.  Spikes
are usually cut when one or two blooms at the bottom are open.
Leave as many leaves as possible on the plant.  The leaves will
manufacture food for the developing new corms.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the home
economist or county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Impatiens. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1128
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1128,
"Impatiens."
   Impatiens are the perfect flowering annual to plant in a shady area.
They'll provide color for your landscape all summer long.  Impatiens
are attractive when they're grown in mass plantings, in tubs or in
hanging baskets.
   A new series that you may want to plant is called Fantasia.  It
grows about 12 inches tall and comes in 10 bright colors.  Another
series is Elfin, which grows 8 to 10 inches tall and comes in 12
colors.  Futura is a free flowering plant which grows up to a foot tall
and comes in nine colors.  Twinkles is a bi-color impatiens which
grows 10 to 12 inches tall.  Twinkles comes in four colors.  Another
new series is Minette, which grows eight to ten inches tall and comes
in six colors.
   Impatiens don't require pinching because they're self-branching.
Each plant spreads considerably during the growing season...so allow
plenty of space for them to grow.  Leave 18 to 24 inches between
plants.  Don't plant impatiens until the danger of frost has passed.
   Impatiens need a soil that will hold the plants securely in place,
release plant food to the roots slowly over a long period, retain
moisture and let surplus water drain away rapidly.  You can improve
soil by adding organic matter such as peat moss, sawdust or pine bark.
   Impatiens grow rapidly and need to be fertilized.  Incorporate two
to three pounds of 8-8-8 per 100 square feet of bed area when you
prepare soil for planting.  Topdress the bed with one pound of 8-8-8
per 100 square feet in mid-June and about August 1.
 
Choose stocky, well-branched plants when you're buying them.  You   o.lrl       
can transplant those growing in peat pots without injuring the roots.
Leave the plants in the peat pots and plant them so the soil in the
pots is at the same level as the soil in the garden.  Water thoroughly
right after planting to settle the soil around the pots.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Marigolds. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  New Orleans Only

                           TeleTip 1131
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1131,
"Marigolds."
   Marigolds are a popular bedding plant...and it may be because of
the new and improved varieties that have been developed.  The bright
yellow, bronze and orange flowers come in many sizes and include
both single and double blooms.
   The dwarf marigolds are excellent foreground plants.  The
intermediate size is used for bedding plants and for cut flowers.  The
large marigolds are suitable for background plants and for cut flowers.
   Space the smallest marigolds from 12 to 14 inches apart...the
intermediate sizes, 20 to 24 inches apart...and the tall marigolds, 30 to
36 inches apart.  Marigolds are hardy, so you can plant them earlier
than other bedding plants.  In the New Orleans area, you can plant
marigolds about March 15.
   Spade the soil to a depth of six to eight inches.  Incorporate a
two-inch layer of organic matter into the soil to insure good drainage,
aeration and water-holding capacity.  Plant marigolds in areas that
receive full sun.
   Marigolds that grow vigorously need fertilizing regularly.  Start
with an application of two pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer per l00 square
feet.
   Marigolds will tolerate short periods of drought, but don't let the
soil get too dry.  Don't over-water the plants either.  You get the
best flowers when the soil is watered weekly with one inch of water.
This will wet the soil to a depth of six or eight inches.
 
Marigolds can be grown from seed, but the most popular and    water.he,to       
satisfactory way to grow them is to buy small plants in peat pots.
Set the plants so that the top of the soil in the peat pot is at the
same level as the soil in the garden.  Water the soil thoroughly after
planting so it will settle around the peat pot.
   It's not necessary to pinch marigolds back because they will branch
as they grow.  You might want to stake the tallest plants because
they are vulnerable to strong winds and rain.
   Some people don't like the scent of marigolds, but if you don't
object to their odor, you can use the larger blooms as cut flowers.
They'll stay fresh for a long time. Also, they're pretty when they're
combined with flowers of other colors and varieties.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Roses, Culture. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1132
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1132, "Roses, Culture."
   Roses aren't easy to grow...but your chances of success with roses
will increase considerably if you follow these suggestions.
   Choose a well-drained site where your roses will receive full sun
for at least half the day.  The best soil for roses is a rich, clay loam,
slightly acid with a high organic content.
   You can plant roses in later winter here in Louisiana.  They can
also be planted in the spring if they are container-grown plants.
   When you're setting out your plants, dig the hole large enough for
the roots to spread out in their natural position.  Make the hole deep
enough so that the "nub" or crook in the main stem where the plant
was budded is one inch above the surface after the soil settles.  The
soil mixture in the planting hole should be about one-fourth peat moss
or well-rotted manure.
   Roses need a lot of food, and cow manure is one of the best
fertilizers you can use.  On established plantings, work two or three
inches of cow manure into the soil around the plants in early spring.
When the first flower buds appear, spread two or three pounds of 8-8-
8 fertilizer or the equivalent per 100 square feet.  Work the fertilizer
into the soil and water it thoroughly so the fertilizer will soak down
to the roots.  If you have mulched your roses, you can put the
fertilizer on top of the mulch if you water it thoroughly afterward.
Apply 8-8-8 every two months until early fall.  You can use liquid
fertilizer on roses, but be sure it's diluted properly.  If it's too
concentrated, it will injure the plants.
 
The method and amount of pruning you'll do on your roses will    toowner,       
depend on what type they are.  As a rule, to maintain healthy growth,
prune the weak-growing varieties lightly and the vigorous varieties
more severely.
   Prune roses from late January to mid-February to a height of 15-18
inches above ground level.  A late August or early September pruning
is recommended, too.  At this time, prune the roses to a height of 24
to 30 inches above the ground.
   For more specific information about pruning roses, ask for Tele-Tip
number 1137, "Pruning Roses."
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Roses," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pansies. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1133
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1133,
"Pansies."
   Pansies are among the most popular garden flowers you can
grow...and even though they get to be only four to eight inches high
they display a remarkable amount of color.
   Even though pansies bloom in the spring...they should be planted in
late October and November.  So, you should prepare the beds you're
going to put the pansies in during the middle of October.  You should
put the beds in the sun or partial shade and you should work the soil
to a depth of about eight to twelve inches.  Work in organic materials
such as peatmoss, leafmold, or compost.  If at all possible, raise the
bed several inches above the rest of the soil...this will help the bed
drain better.
   A couple of weeks before you plant the pansies, you should
fertilize the soil with a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10.
You should put about a pound of fertilizer for each fifty square feet
of bed you intend to plant with pansies.
   If you would like more information about pansies call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Petunias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1134
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1134,
"Petunias."
   An old favorite...the petunia is probably the most important
flowering annual planted in gardens today.  It's quite versatile and can
be used as an accent plant, in a hanging basket, as a border plant, in
combination with other plants and in mass plantings.
   You can choose from many colors...pink, salmon, red, rose, blue,
purple, orange, yellow and white.  Interesting bi-colors are available in
both single and double flowering types, too.
   Petunias are available wherever bedding plants are sold...grocery
stores, discount stores, garden centers, chain stores and hardware
stores.
   Plant petunias in an area that has good light.  They will tolerate
some shade, however.  The soil should be well-drained, aerated and it
should have the capacity to retain moisture without becoming
waterlogged.  Clay and sandy soils can be improved by adding
peatmoss, rotted manure or sawdust.  The soil P-H should be between
6 and 6.5.  Have the soil tested to determine its P-H level and its
possible need for lime.
   Plant petunias after the danger of frost has passed.  Don't crowd
them.  They make a large plant during the course of the growing
season.  Plant petunias shallowly.  Deep planting usually results in
stem or root rot.
   Fertilize the petunia bed before you set out the plants.  Fertilize
with three pounds of 8-8-8 per 100 square feet.  Work the fertilizer
into the top six inches of soil.  Apply 8-8-8 a second time at the
same rate in late May or early June.
   Petunias don't like hot weather, so if you want to grow them in
the summer, plant them in the coolest location in your
garden...preferably where they'll get only morning sun.
   Don't let the soil your petunias are in dry out.  They need an inch
of water each week...either from irrigation or rainfall.
   If you cut your plants back in early August to a height of nine to
twelve inches, they'll provide excellent fall blooms...even more vivid
than their summer colors.  Petunias can survive several frosts, so they
may bloom until late October or early November.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Annuals," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Roses, Disease Control. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1135
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1135, "Roses, Disease Control."
   Black spot, a fungus disease, is the most widely distributed and
most destructive disease of roses in Louisiana.  This disease, combined
with powdery mildew, causes rose growers a lot of concern.  Black
spot and powdery mildew cause leaves to shed prematurely.
Continuous shedding of leaves shortens the life of the bud and limits
the number and quality of the flowers the plant can produce.
   You can recognize black spot by the nearly circular black spots
with frayed or fringed margins.  Spots vary from one or two...to a
dozen or more on a leaf...usually on the upper side.  The spots enlarge
from pinhead size to the size of a dime...and as they enlarge they may
run together to form irregular blotches on the leaves.  An entire leaf
may become yellow or there may be a yellow area around individual
spots.
   Leaf shed follows... often with two or three sets of leaves being
lost in a season.  Although the leaf spotting is ugly...the most serious
effect on the plant is the premature shedding of leaves.  This reduces
the vigor of the plants.
   Black spot overwinters...that is...it lives through the winter on
fallen leaves and in dead areas of diseased canes.  In late fall, you
should prune all dead or dying canes or stems.  This removes the
overwintering source of the fungus that causes the black spot disease.
Make pruning cuts four-to-six inches below any obvious sign of
damage and close to a bud.  This reduces the likelihood of common
canker development.
 
Rake up and burn the material that has been pruned.  Burn all   nease.usn       
dead
rose leaves, too.  Sanitation will help prevent the spread of the
disease, but it will not completely control black spot.
   Powdery mildew usually appears in the late spring or early summer
and is considered a hot weather disease.  The white covering of the
fungus growth covers young buds which results in no blooms or
distorted flowers.  Leaves may curl slightly or become blistered and
then show signs of the white powdery fungus growth.  The disease can
occur on leaves, buds and canes causing a stunting and twisting of the
new growth.
   To control black spot of roses and powdery mildew you must follow
a regular, weekly preventive fungicide spray schedule during the
growing season.  Begin spraying when leaves first appear in the
spring.
   There are many fungicides available which may be used alone or in
combination for black spot and powdery mildew.  More important,
however, is the timeliness and thoroughness of the applications.
   Benomyl or Benlate, Maneb and Funginex can be used to control
rose diseases.  Alternating these chemicals is especially effective.
   For more information about taking care of your roses, call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Roses, Fertilization. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1136
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1136,
"Roses, Fertilization."
   Roses can use large quantities of nutrients, so they respond
favorably to deep, thoroughly prepared soil and plenty of plant food.
   Cow manure can be used, but not in large quantities.  If the
manure is only partially decomposed and you use a lot of it...the plant
roots may be injured.  For best results, work two or three inches of
completely rotted  cow manure into the soil each spring.
   Another good fertilizer is 8-8-8.  Spread 8-8-8 on the top of the
soil at the rate of two to three pounds per 100 square feet of soil
surface.  Work in into the upper one or two inches of the soil.
   When you're fertilizing established roses, follow these
suggestions...in late winter, apply 1/8 to 1/4 pound of a complete
fertilizer for each plant.  Spread it between the plants.  Cultivate the
upper one or two inches of soil while you work the fertilizer into the
ground.  Water the plants thoroughly.  The water should soak down to
the roots.  If your roses are mulched, spread the fertilizer over the
mulch and water it into the soil.
   Apply additional nitrogen in late June or early July.  Use either
one ounce of ammonium nitrate or two ounces of nitrate of soda for
each plant.  Spread fertilizer over the bed and water it into the soil.
Applying two ounces of a complete fertilizer to each plant after the
fall pruning is beneficial, too.
   Commercial rose fertilizers are available...and they are usually good.
Follow the manufacturer's directions for applying them.  Liquid
fertilizers are practical and satisfactory.  By using a liquid fertilizer
you can fertilize and water the roses in one operation because you
apply the fertilizer with an attachment to your water hose.
 
Be careful your you're using soluble fertilizers.  These concentrated   r       
fertilizers must be diluted properly.  If they're too strong, they will
injure your roses.  Liquid fertilizer that remains on the foliage after
fertilizing should be washed off unless it is specifically recommended
for foliar feeding.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Roses," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pruning Roses. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1137
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1137,
"Pruning Roses."
   Roses fall into two broad groups...recurrent flowering roses and
climbing roses.
   The recurrent flowering roses begin to flower in the spring and
continue to flower until frost if they're healthy.  This group includes
hybrid teas, grandifloras and floribundas.  Climbing roses include
rambling roses and those called plain climbers.  You'll need to learn
the difference between the two groups because they're pruned
differently.
   Recurrent flowering roses should be pruned in late winter...before
growth starts.  Remove diseased and injured wood first.  Make your
cuts in healthy tissue well below the point of injury of disease.  Then,
choose three, four or five good canes that you will keep and remove
all the others.  The canes you leave should be cut back, too.  The
natural vigor of the variety will determine how much you cut them
back.  Prune vigorous varieties severely and weak-growing varieties
lightly.
   For example...Charlotte Armstrong is a vigorous hybrid tea.  Canes
left on it should be 15 to 18 inches long.  Chrysler Imperial, on the
other hand, is a weaker hybrid tea.  Leave the canes on this variety
16 to 24 inches long.
   In Louisiana, where roses grow vigorously, prune roses again in late
August or early September.  This time, prune plants to 24 to 30 inches
above the ground.
 
Climbing roses, old fashioned roses and rambling roses should be   hese,r       
pruned right after they flower in April or May.  Remove...at ground
level...the canes that have just finished blooming.  The next spring you
may want to snip back growth on the new canes.  The amount of
snipping should depend on what you expect of your climbing roses.  If
you want to confine them to a six-foot fence, you'll have to snip
them severely.  If you expect them to cover a large area, don't snip
them.
   Always use sharp tools to prune roses and other plants.  Here's
another suggestion...if you grow roses for exhibition as cut
flowers...prune them severely.  You may reduce the life of the
plant...but your flowers will be larger and they'll have longer stems.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Roses," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Salvia. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1138
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1138,
"Salvia."
   Salvia...also known as Scarlet Sage...is among the most colorful
annual flowers in the garden.  They're equally effective in small
groups, in mass plantings, or in combinations with other annuals.
While most of the varieties are fiery red in color, salvia also comes in
violet, blue and white.
   Salvia is available in several distinct height groupings.  The small
Fireball variety, which is 10 inches tall, is most effective as a mass
planting.  The 12 to 16 inch group includes such outstanding varieties
as St. John's Fire, Carabiniere, Blaze of Fire, and Red Pillar.  The
taller varieties, which are 18 to 30 inches high, can be used as
background or mid-border plantings.  Outstanding varieties in the
taller group include America, Firebrand and Bonfire.  Since salvia are
self-branching, the short types should be spaced on 12-inch centers.
The intermediate and tall varieties should be spaced on 18 to 24-inch
centers.
   Since salvia plants are rather tender, they should not be planted in
the garden until after the chance of frost has passed.  You can buy
salvia plants in peat pots at garden centers and other outlets that sell
flowering bedding plants.
 
Salvia performs best in strong light, but it's tolerant of partial   ellr       
shade.  Select a site where the soil is open and well-drained.  The soil
should be turned and prepared with additions of some types of organic
matter each year.  The kinds of organic matter you might consider
include peat moss, pine bark, and sawdust.  A complete fertilizer, such
as 8-8-8, should be worked into the soil before you plant...and you
should apply the fertilizer at the rate of two to three pounds per 100
square feet.  Top dressings of 8-8-8 should be made between June 15
and August 1.  The rate for this should be one pound per 100 square
feed of bed area.
   Don't allow the soil in which the salvia is grown to become too
dry.  Water it with at least one inch of water per week during a dry
period.
   Salvia plants can be expected to provide a succession of blooms
from mid-June until frost, provided they are properly cared for.  One
important point should be made...salvia flowers are pollinated by bees
and old flowering spikes should be removed at least weekly to keep
the plants blooming.
   Mulching is especially beneficial to salvia.  Mulching reduces the
evaporation of water from the surface and suppresses weeds.  Medium
coarse peatmoss or pine bark applied in a two-to-three inch layer
makes an excellent mulch and it looks like soil.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Snapdragon. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1139
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1139,
"Snapdragon."
   Snapdragons are a favorite of gardeners who like bright, showy
flowers in the garden and for use as cut flowers.  A native of the
Mediterranean region, they are now available in many newly-developed
forms.
   The short types, such as the Floral Carpet and Pixie, grow to a
height of six to eight inches.  They are excellent border plants.
Intermediate height snapdragons include...Promenade, Sprite, Hit Parade
and Butterfly.  They are good bedding plants and are tall enough to
be cut.  The taller snapdragons, which include Madame Butterfly and
Rockets, make good background plants and are perfect for cutting.
   Snapdragons come in a multitude of colors...white, pink, yellow,
bronze, rose and red.  Each color has many shades, too.
   To grow snapdragons successfully, prepare the soil carefully.
Snapdragons are sensitive to root rot diseases, so they need well-
drained soil.  You may want to raise your snapdragon beds to improve
drainage.  Add materials like peatmoss, pine bark and rotted sawdust
to insure better drainage and aeration of the soil.
   Plant snapdragons where they will get four or five hours of direct
sunlight daily.  Partial shade for the rest of the day is alright.
Because they thrive when the weather is cool, plant them in late
winter or early spring..or in the fall after the nights become cool.
 
Probably, you should start with small plants which can be bought   .tdelr       
at garden centers, discount stores and other places which sell bedding
plants.  These plants are well established and have good root systems.
The plants will be accompanied by tags which will have a picture of
the variety and information on spacing, fertilizing and plant height.
Most commercial growers pinch the growing points on shoots.  This
encourages branching.
   Don't plant snapdragons too deeply.  Deep planting will encourage
stem and root rot.  Space the short varieties six to ten inches
apart...taller varieties should be spaced at least 12 inches apart.
   A good complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 should be
mixed into the soil before you plant.  Use two pounds for 100 square
feet of area.  The soil P-H should be between 6 and 6.5.  A soil test
can tell you how much lime is needed to bring the soil P-H to this
level.
   Snapdragons will need at least an inch of water each week...so
you'll need to water them when it doesn't rain.  Don't over-water
them though.  Over-watering will stunt or kill plants.
   The best way to keep snapdragons blooming is to cut the flowers
often.  Don't allow the flowering shoots to set fruit.  By removing old
blooms regularly, you can have flowers until cold weather kills the
plants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the home
economist or county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Spring Flowering Bulbs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/l7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1140
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1140,
"Spring Flowering Bulbs."
   The spring flowering bulbs are truly a delight to have in your
garden...but they do require planning.  The bulbs you enjoy every
spring were planted the previous fall.  You should prepare your flower
beds for spring flowering bulbs during September and you should order
your bulbs in September so you will be ready to plant them in
October.
   Many spring flowering bulbs will bloom a second year...and maybe
even more years if they're cared for properly.  How to care for them
in just a minute, but first...the varieties which will bloom year after
year.
   The varieties of the daffodil and narcissus group which come back
year after year are Fortune, Carlton, Silver Chimes, Mt. Hood, Paper
White, Peeping Tom, February Gold and Trevithian.
   It's important that you select your bulbs by variety in south
Louisiana because many bulbs may produce foliage a second or third
year...but no flowers.  Two common varieties which produce foliage but
no flowers are King Alfred and Unsurpassed.
   Now, let's get back to caring for spring flowering bulbs so they
will bloom a second and third year.  The trick is...after the blooms are
gone, leave the foliage on the plant until after the new bulb has
formed.  Just delay cutting the foliage for a few weeks.  Wait until
the foliage begins to turn brown before you cut it or before you
remove the leaves.  Don't tie the foliage in tight knots or loops
because this will prevent light from getting to all of the leaves.  Also,
a light application of fertilizer after the bulbs flower may help bulbs
growing in poor soils.                           Bulbs need to be
divided every two or three years.  Dig them up and divide them after
the foliage is brown.  After you've divided them, wrap them in
newspaper or cover them with dry peat moss or vermiculite and store
them in a cool place until it's time to plant them the next fall.
   For more gardening information and suggestions call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Tulips. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1141
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1141,
"Tulips."
   Although tulips really weren't made to be grown in Louisiana,
research indicates that with the right kind of treatment, tulips can
look as good in Louisiana as they do in some of the more northern
parts of the country.
   Tulips should be planted in late November or no later than mid-
December.  The trick is...you need to put the bulbs in the vegetable
bin of your refrigerator for about six weeks before you plant them.
They need this chilling to compensate for the rather mild winters we
experience here in Louisiana.
   Here are some of the kinds of tulips that can be grown in
Louisiana.
   The "Darwin Tulips" are by far the best for general use and beauty.
The Darwins have long, graceful stems and usually reach peak bloom
in late March and early April.
   The "Darwin Hybrids" are an improvement of the regular Darwin
types...they're larger and usually bloom several weeks earlier than the
regular Darwin types.
   The "Cottage Tulips"  are pastel colored and bloom later than
Darwin types.  The flowers are usually large and egg-shaped.
   The "Parrot Tulips"  have fringed and scalloped edges.  Although
there are many varieties of these, many of them have weak stems and
don't flower as they should.  Because of their heavy, large blooms,
these are more likely to be damaged by wind and rain.
   The "Peony" or "Double Tulips" have many petals and bloom late in
the spring.  Good varieties include:  Eros, which is rose pink...May
Wonder, which is clear pink...and Orange Triumph...a soft orange.
   Other tulip types include lily-flowered tulips, breeder tulips,
Rembrandt or broken tulips, Fosteriana tulips, and Duc van Thol tulips.
   Regardless of the type tulips you choose, put them in full sun or
partial shade in a well-drained soil and on a raised bed.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Zinnias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/2/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1143
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1143,
"Zinnias."
   If you've made a decision to plant zinnias in your flower garden,
there's still one more tough decision to make--and that's selecting
variety.
   Zinnias have been so improved in recent years that varieties range
in height from 6 to 36 inches and are available in every color except
blue.  The most popular colors are yellow, orange, and red.
   The smallest variety is the Thumbelina.  It's used outside and
inside the home as a border for flower beds and as small potting
plants.  A little taller variety is the Cupid and Button zinnia which
reaches 12 inches.  They produce an abundance of blooms and are
widely used inside flower beds or as border plants.
   Next in height is the Persian Carpet zinnia with 15-inch stalks.
These zinnias appeal to flower lovers because of their colorful centers
and white or yellow-tipped petals.  If you like unique flowers, a good
selection would either be the Envy or Peppermint Stick varieties.  The
Envy produces an apple green flower, while those of the Peppermint
Stick are boldly striped in contrasting yellow, red and white colors.
   If your appeal is toward tall and graceful plants, then there's the
Dahlia, Cactus and California Giant varieties.  The Dahlia has great
size, excellent form and six-inch flowers.  An outstanding feature of
the large Cactus flowers are the fluted petals which form tube-like
points.  If you're attracted to pretty pastel colors, then you'll likely
go with the California Giants.  These giants stand three to four feet
tall and produce long stemmed flowers measuring six inches across the
face.            One word of caution before putting on your garden
gloves and breaking soil, Zinnias are very tender plants, so be sure all
danger of frost is past before planting.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mailing Problem Plants to the County Agent. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/19/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1147
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1147,
"Mailing Problem Plants to the County Agent."
   If you're having trouble with a potted plant, a shrub, a vegetable
or a tree, there is someone who can help you pinpoint the problem
and at no cost to you other than getting the plant to him.
   The person who can help is the county agent in your parish.  You
can take the plant or infected parts of the plant to the agent for him
to examine or you can mail the plant or part to him if this is more
convenient.
   Unfortunately, there is no way to guarantee that the plant will
arrive at the county agent's office in good condition...and unless the
material is in good shape and you give him enough information, it's
impossible to diagnose the problem.
   Here are some suggestions that may help you get your plant to the
county agent in a useable condition.  If the plants are wilting,
yellowing, or showing general decline, try to send the whole plant
with roots if possible.  Dig the plant up carefully and include a soil
sample in a closed plastic bag.  Stem cankers should be sent in with
some healthy wood above and below the cankered portion.
   Branches and twigs that have been dead for several months are not
of much use.
   If your disease problem appears to be a leaf spot, then collect
several leaves from early and late stages of infestation.  Press the
leaves between cardboard to prevent them from crumbling in the mail.
Don't send leaf materials in a plastic bag because this causes the
leaves to rot quickly making identification impossible.
 
If you send fleshy fruits or vegetables, you should give them some   lll,       
special attention.  Send these specimens enclosed in a plastic bag.
Don't add any extra water to the bags.  And, don't send fruits or
vegetables that are severely decayed.  It's better to send those just
beginning to show the disease. Put these specimens in a box and wrap
it in heavy paper for mailing.  When you mail the plants, be sure to
send them so that they will arrive at the agent's office on a week day
instead of a weekend.
   After the agent receives the specimen, he may determine that it
should be examined by the Plant Disease Clinic at LSU to verify the
problem before he makes any recommendations.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Soil Analysis. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/16/82 (Curtis)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1148
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1148,
"Soil Analysis."
   Taking a soil test and having the soil analyzed is a step in the
right direction -- especially if your plants are not producing as they
should.  A soil test can reveal the level of plant nutrients, the soil
pH, the amount of limestone needed to change the pH, and the amount
of organic matter in the soil.
   If possible, test the soil before you plant.  If the pH is too low,
you can work lime into the soil to increase the soil pH and make the
soil less acid.  If the soil test reveals that the pH is too high, you
can add sulphur and mix it into the soil.  This will lower the ph and
make the soil more acid.
   Be sure your soil sample represents the area where you will plant
your garden.  Take several samples to a depth of four to six inches.
Take them from several locations, mix them thoroughly and take about
one pint of this soil to your county agent.
   Remember, though, that although a soil test can help determine pH
and plant nutrients, it will not solve problems of disease or insects.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Preparing Garden Soil. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1149
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1149,
"Preparing Garden Soil."
   The success or health of any plant depends directly on the soil in
which it grows.  Basically, the soil holds the plant in place and
upright and provides the necessary moisture, oxygen and food for the
plant.
   The best way to be sure your plants get enough moisture is to mix
into the soil generous amounts of humus or organic material.  These
materials may include peatmoss, leafmold, compost, processed bark,
animal manures, perlite or vermiculite.
   If your soils are poorly drained, coarse sand should be mixed into
the planting area.  A good planting mixture is five parts garden soil,
four parts organic matter and one part sand.
   Before you add organic or humus materials, the planting area
should be well spaded and worked.  Remove all weeds and grasses and
spread the material evenly over the surface of the soil and work it in.
   Beds prepared for annuals, perennials and vegetables should be dug
to a depth of 12 to 18 inches.  Areas for trees and shrubs should be
prepared 8 to 12 inches deep beyond the depth and width of the
plant's existing root area.
   All planting beds should be raised slightly above normal ground
level to allow for settling and to ensure good drainage.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Spring Color. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1151
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1151,
"Spring Color."
   Although some annual flowers are too tender to withstand the cool
nights of late March and early April, you can get a head start with
some of these.
   The way you do this is by planting the seeds in flats or pots or
half-gallon cartons or some other kind of container and putting them
in a warm, sunny place until there's no more danger of frost.  When
the weather warms up enough, you'll be able to go with sizeable
plants instead seed.
   One popular summer bulb that you can plant indoors during March
is the caladium.  By March, most nurseries and garden centers should
have these bulbs.  You should plant one bulb in a four-inch pot
containing humus soil and then put the containers in a warm sunny
area.  Keep the soil moist and growth will begin immediately.
   Gladiolus corms should be planted during March, too.  But, instead
of planting all you have at one time, try spreading the plantings over
several weeks.  Then color in your garden will be extended according
to the way gladiolus corms were planted.
   During March, you can expect some cool days and nights.  But,
spring is close at hand...and a few indoor plantings made during March
will assure you of early color in your garden.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Annual for Year-Roung Color," call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
 
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperativech.l,       
-End-
-Title-
Plant Care During Vacation. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                            Reviewed:  2/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1152
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1152, "Plant Care
During Vacation."
   If you plan to be away from your home for two weeks or longer
during your vacation you'll probably need to prepare your plants for
your absence.
   Cut your grass just before you leave and make plans to have
someone cut the grass again in a couple of weeks if you're not going
to be back by then.  Uncut grass is a sure sign that you're gone and
the overgrowth will be hard on the grass itself.  In fact, if the grass
goes too long without cutting, it won't look very good when it is cut.
   You should water everything well before you leave.  A good, slow
soaking will probably carry your plants through a week or so with no
additional rain.
   You may need to mulch some of those plants which need watering
more often...those include hydrangea, azalea, annual flowers, coleus,
caladiums, mums and any new shrubs or trees you may have planted
during the spring.
   You should sink potted plants in a cool, shaded bed and water them
well.  Sinking the pots below the soil level will prevent them from
drying out quickly.
   Cut flowering annuals and perennial blooms to encourage new
growth and blooms for your return.  If you leave the old blooms and
seed heads on the plants, growth and the new bloom crop will be
slowed.
   After you do this cutting, you'll need to do some fertilizing.  A
light application of a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 worked into the
surface, and water will help the plants grow. 
You should spray for insects and diseases to keep them from                     
building up while you're gone.
   Be sure that walks and beds are neatly edged before your
departure, because the build-up of growth while you're away will be
difficult to manage when you get back.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Preparing Plants for Summer. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/17/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1153
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1153,
"Preparing Plants for Summer."
   Louisiana's hot summer days are often hard on ornamental
landscape plants...which makes it harder on you because the plants
require more of your attention.
   During the summer, water is extremely important for the survival
and growth of your plants.  It may not be practical or desirable to
water your plants continuously...so, you will need to conserve whatever
moisture there is.
   The best way to conserve moisture is by mulching the
plants...especially new ones.  Mulch acts as a soil insulator...it protects
the soil from the sun and wind...so, the mulched soil is cooler than
unmulched soil and usually stays at a more constant temperature.
   Also, mulches break the force of rain and irrigation water and tend
to prevent erosion, soil compaction and crusting. If you're looking for
some good mulching materials...you might try a three to six inch layer
of pine bark, pine needles, partially composted leaves or sugarcane
bagasse.
   Get your plants ready for summer before summer arrives...if you
would like more information about preparing your plants for summer,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extesnion Service.
                               
 
                               ce.omist in your parish office of theerrects     
-End-
-Title-
Planting In Summer. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1154
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1154,
"Planting In Summer."
   If you're wondering whether you can set out plants during the hot
months ...answer is yes, but...you must pay special attention to the amount of
water the plants get.
   During dry periods this may mean you will need to water the newly
set plants a couple of times a week...because the roots of the plants
aren't very well established.  So, if you plan to go on a lengthy
vacation, it's probably not a good idea to plant shrubs and the like
during the hot months.
   As you know, most plants have, by tradition, been set during the
winter when they are dormant...but, now many plants are grown in
containers which allows you to plant them in the summer if you're
careful to give them the tender loving care they need.
   If you would like to have more information about planting in the
summer or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Shrubs
for Louisiana Landscapes," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
 
 our parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.nomist inamount of  
-End-
-Title-
Colorful Flowers for Summer. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed: 2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1155
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1155,
"Colorful Flowers for Summer."
   There are many plants which will provide brilliant color for your
landscape through the heat of summer and until frost...with only
minimum care.
   Two colorful annual flowers often taken for granted are zinnias and
marigolds.  Both of these plants are available in several colors and
sizes.  Because both zinnias and marigolds come in dwarf sizes, they
are suitable for borders or ground covers...or the giant size varieties
can be used for mass plantings and cuttings.
   Shrimp plant, periwinkle, sultana, salvia, lantana and pentas will
bloom until frost.  Shrimp plant and periwinkle will thrive in the sun
or in partial shade.  Sultana and pentas perform best in the shade or
partial sun.  Sultana is available in a variety of colors and new plants
are easily propagated from seed or cuttings.
   Plumbago will thrive in the hottest Louisiana sun and will survive
periods of drought.  Plumbago is valued for its continuous display of
blue or white flowers.
   Brighten your summer garden with some of the colorful summer
flowers.
   If you would like to have more information about which plants you
should grow during the summer, call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
 
                                of the LSU Cooperative Extension youfntsunt of  
-End-
-Title-
Why Spring Flowering Bulbs Won't Bloom. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area: State

                           TeleTip 1156
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1156,
"Why Spring Flowering Bulbs Won't Bloom."
   During March many people begin to wonder why their spring
flowering bulbs aren't blooming.  Well, it could be one of several
reasons.
   For example, daffodils and most other bulbs don't do very well in
soils that stay wet for a long time.  Bulbs may rot in areas where
there's a high water table.  Good drainage is essential.
   Many varieties of bulbs will not produce flowers a second year...or
if they do...they're considerably fewer.  Many of the daffodils fall into
this category.  Foliage is often lush and beautiful...but no flowers.
   The hot Louisiana summers and the mild Louisiana winters
sometimes don't allow bulbs to become conditioned for blooming.  This
is why the popular King Alfred daffodils and many others, too, fail to
repeat season after season.
   Even though bulbs will grow in shade, some natural sunlight is
needed for good flowering.
   Over-crowding is another problem.  After several years of growth,
some bulbs keep multiplying until they become overcrowded.  You can't
expect large numbers of good quality flowers where there's not enough
room for good root formation.
   If you have some bulbs you've just planted and they're not
flowering, the problem may be they were planted too deep.  This is
often the case for bulbs growing in heavy soils.
   Another reason bulbs don't flower is that the foliage was cut too
early the previous year.  The foliage should stay attached to the bulbs
until it turns brown.  This nourishes and replenishes the bulbs for the
formation of new ones.                          One other cause of
bulbs not flowering is insects.  The one insect which often damages
spring-flowering bulbs is the grub.
   If you would like more information about spring flowering bulbs,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                e.omist in your parish office of thethetont of  
-End-
-Title-
Gibbing Camellias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1158
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number ll58,
"Gibbing Camellias."
   Gibbing is the process of making camellias bloom earlier than they
otherwise would.  Camellias can be forced to bloom several weeks to
several months before their normal bloom date when they're treated
with gibberellic acid.
   Gibberellic acid is present in many plants and acts as a growth
regulator.  But, when you increase the amount of gibberellic acid in
camellias they tend to bloom much earlier.
   Gibbing camellias is a simple process.  First, in September or
October, select a well-developed flower bud...then remove the slender,
adjacent growth bud.  This growth bud is usually growing beside the
plump flower bulb.  Put one drop of the prepared  giberellic acid
mixture...one to one and a half percent... in the small cup that's left
after you've broken out the growth bud.  On small plants you
shouldn't treat more than a third of the buds.
   After about a week or ten days you should see a considerable
difference in the buds you've treated and the ones you haven't
treated.
   One of the real advantages of gibbing is that on some of the
varieties normally damaged by cold weather...you can force them to
bloom before the weather gets that cold.
   You should be able to get gibberellic acid mixtures in most garden
centers.
   If you would like more information about gibbing camellias or if
you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Camellias,"  call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service. -30-
-End-
-Title-
Reclaiming Old Shrubs and Small Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82
Area:  state

                           Tele-Tip 1159
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1159,
"Reclaiming Old Shrubs and Small Trees."
   That overgrown shrub that dominates your landscape or blocks your
view can be turned into a useful and attractive small tree.  Often,
old, lack-luster shrubs can be reclaimed by selective pruning.  Such
plants include ligustrum, camellias, sasanquas, Burford hollies,
pittosporums, photinias and Japanese yew.
   To create this transformation, you need only a small pruning saw,
loppers, a pair of hand shears and a bit of patience and skill.
   First, determine whether the plant is worthy of such treatment...
that is...be sure you like it where it is.  A large shrub near a patio
would be more useful as a small shade tree, for instance.  A big shrub
may be completely shading an important part of your house...but with
wise pruning you can turn
 it into a much looser, more open form that you can see through.
   After you've decided that the plant is worth keeping and after
you've decided it's in the right place, it's time to go to work on it.
   First, remove all the dead wood and the small, non-essential
branches from the center of the plant.  Gradually reduce the center
until it's acceptable.  In many cases this will mean cutting out several
large trunks.  Never shear the plant across the top...always remove
branches and trunks from within the plant so that you open it up
without destroying the natural form of the plant.
   It may be a good idea to make a few cuts, then step back and look
at the results.  It may even be necessary to do the pruning over
several days so you'll have time to evaluate your work.  Paint all the
cuts that are more than one and a half inches with a tree surgery
material.
   After the plant has been reclaimed to your satisfaction, then study
the plant bed it's in to determine whether you need a ground cover or
other plantings.
   If you would like to have more information about reclaiming old
shrubs and trees, call the county agent or home economist in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
 
 arish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.st in yourd oryalont of  
-End-
-Title-
Summer Care of Flowering Bulbs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1160
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1160,
"Summer Care of Flowering Bulbs."
   When spring gardeners begin wondering "where have all the flowers
gone" from their bulb plants, then time is close at hand for putting
them away for fall replanting.
   If foliage is turning brown or dieback has begun...and the plants
have been bedded in the same location for two or more years...they
need to be dug and stored for planting in October or early November.
This applies to such varieties as narcissus, daffodils, jonquils and
Easter lilies.
   Avoid taking green plants from the ground since this could keep
flowers from forming the next year.  While the plant is still green,
the new flower that will bloom the following year is being formed in
the bulb.
   After digging, allow the bulbs to air dry in the shade for several
days.  Then remove the soil and store the bulbs in a cool, dry
location until planting in the fall.
   While most spring flowering bulbs can be removed from beds in
June, gladiolas are in bloom then and digging them will have to wait
for four or five weeks.  When foliage turns brown, the plants can be
dug and larger bulbs separated from the smaller or marble-sized bulbs.
   Small bulbs left attached to larger ones produce grass-like foliage
and no flowers for three years.  If you want to save the smaller ones,
plant them in an inconspicuous place.  In three years they will grow
into larger bulbs.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Watering Summer Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1161
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1161,
"Watering Summer Plants."
   A blistering summer sun along with inadequate watering often leads
to the downfall of a potentially beautiful yard containing a healthy
lawn, flowers and shrubs.
   Many times the problem isn't recognized until plants are badly
damaged or dead.  And, over-watering can be as much a problem as
under-watering.
   Here are some suggestions for getting water to the roots of plants,
and keeping it there:
   Never water strictly by the calendar.  Instead, learn to recognize
dry plants and soil, and use these symptoms as your watering guide.
   When plants are dry, water them thoroughly.  Water lawns so the
soil becomes wet several inches down.  This encourages deep rooting
and resistance to extreme dry periods.
   Water trees and shrubs by taking the sprinkler off the end of the
hose and letting the water run slowly for an hour or so.  Be sure
water is going where you want it and not just running off.
   Symptoms for water-logged plants are about the same as those that
have been kept too dry.  Plants begin to wilt and turn yellow.
   To hold moisture in the soil, use a mulch such as tree bark,
bagasse or pine straw.  Besides reducing evaporation, mulches keep the
soil cooler and make weed pulling easier.  Be especially careful to
keep newly planted trees and shrubs well watered.  Their developing
root systems are especially sensitive to under-watering and over-
watering.
 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county   gthealont of  
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
February Gardening Suggestions 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                                  TeleTip 1172
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1172, "February Gardening Suggestions".
   During February it's not unusual to begin thinking about the
warmer days of spring and the things you'll be doing outside.  But, it
may be that you'll want to get outside and work in the garden during
the warm days of February because what you do during February will
certainly affect what your garden has to offer during the spring.
   You can plant Gladiolus during the latter days of January and the
first week to ten days of February in south Louisiana.  You can
prolong the blooming season of glads by planting a few corms each
week until about the middle of March...but no later.
   Also, if you want early flowers, seed annuals in boxes and keep
them indoors.
   February is a good time to fertilize trees.  Remember, it's best to
put the fertilizer in holes in the soil.  Fertilize trees with about a
pound to a pound and a half of a balanced fertilizer for each year of
the tree's age.  A balanced fertilizer is one such as 8-8-8.
   Shrubs should be fertilized with about a quarter of a pound of a
balanced fertilizer for every square yard of area covered by the spread
of the plant.  You can delay fertilizing your shrubs until March.
   If you're more of a vegetable gardener, here are the vegetables
which can be planted during February...beets, carrots, broccoli, turnips,
mustard, spinach, parsley, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, radishes, Irish
potatoes, leaf lettuce, head lettuce (during the first part of the
month), snap beans and corn in the extreme southern part of the
state.  Also, you can transplant broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, head
lettuce and shallots.
   Growing Irish potatoes is very popular in Louisiana.  You should
finish planting your potatoes in south Louisiana by February 15.  You
can get more detailed information about growing Irish potatoes by
calling this number and asking for TeleTip number 1729. 
If you're planning to plant tomatoes this spring, you can plant                 
tomato seeds in a greenhouse or in hotbeds during January or by the
end of February.  Tomatoes require about seven to eight weeks from
seeding until they reach transplant size.  Eggplants and bell peppers
require eight to ten weeks of growth.
   If you're considering planting a pecan tree or two, you should get
it done by late February.  The dormant season for pecan trees ends in
early March and trees must be set out before the growing begins.
Container-grown pecan trees may be planted on into spring as
temperatures remain cool.
   If you already have one or two pecan trees in your yard and you
want to fertilize them, you should contact the county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service and ask
for a copy of pamphlet number 1727.  This publication gives specific
instructions concerning fertilization of individual pecan trees.
   Late February to early March is an ideal time to fertilize the fruit
plants in your home orchard.  An annual application of fertilizer is
critical to the maintenance of healthy, productive fruit trees and
plants.
   Here are a few other things you may want to do in February if
you grow fruit...plant blackberry root cuttings...check strawberry plants
for spider mites... apply pre-emerge herbicides to the lawn to control
spring annual weeds...plant container-grown citrus trees...collect fig
cuttings and add mulch to rabbiteye blueberry plants.
   If you want more information or suggestions about any of the
subjects mentioned in this program or if you have a question about
growing other ornamentals, vegetables or fruits, call the home
economist or county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
March Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1173
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1173, "March Gardening Suggestions."
   First, a brief look at landscape gardening...then a look at vegetable
gardening.  You should try to finish your shrub and tree planting
during March so the plants can become well established before the
summer heat moves in.  Remember, don't buy and set out more plants
than you have time to care for...they will suffer for it during the
summer.
   If you didn't get around to pruning during February, you should use
early March to prune all spring flowering shrubs and evergreen shrubs.
Remember...don't prune spring flowering shrubs such as spiraea, azalea,
camellia, jasmine, mock orange and flowering quince until after they
have bloomed.
   Early March is the ideal time to fertilize plants in the landscape
because you give them food for growth just before the spring growth
begins.  Buy your fertilizers on the basis of plant food...not on the
basis of pressure claims, advertising or the color of the product.
   If you have roses, you'll need to start a regular spray program as
soon as the plants begin to produce leaves.  If you allow black spot
disease to get started, you'll find it is quite difficult to control.  You
can help prevent disease problems by keeping a fungicide such as
Funginex, Benlate, Manzate or Phaltan on the foliage at all times.
These chemicals should be alternated each week.
   Also, during March you can divide and transplant mums, ajuga,
liriope, violets, daylily and shasta daisy.
   Now, let's look at vegetable gardening.  During March you can
plant snap beans, Swiss chard, collards and sweet corn.  After the
danger of frost is over, you can transplant tomatoes, peppers and
eggplant.
   When you go to the nursery or the hardware store to buy your
tomato plants, you'll want to buy those varieties recommended for
Louisiana...they are:  Floralou, Floradel, Creole, Pelican, Traveler 76,
Better Boy, Champion, Fantastic, Floramerica, Super Fantastic, Park's
Extra Early, Pole King, and Monte Carlo.  Three of the newer hybrids
are Celebrity, Freedom and Mountain Pride.  Good canning varieties
are Royal Chico and Roma V F.
   For more information on recommended varieties for Louisiana or
growing specific vegetables, either call TeleTips and ask for the
appropriate tape or call the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
April Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1174
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1174, "April Gardening Suggestions."
   First, a look at landscape gardening...then, a look at vegetable
gardening.
   April is your last call for dormant oil applications for control of
scale insects on camellia and hollies and on leaves and stems of other
plants such as variegated privet, magnolias and gardenias.  Oil sprays
are safe only when the temperature doesn't exceed 85 degrees.  After
April, your next best time to apply dormant sprays is late October or
early November.
   April is the time to prepare your hanging baskets.  Many plants are
suitable for these planters, but ferns are probably the aristocrats.
They come in a great variety of shapes and sizes and are especially
attractive when grown in baskets.
   Tender, annual bedding plants may be planted outside as soon as
there's no longer a danger of frost.  You can start the seed indoors
now so you'll have earlier blooms.
   You should begin making cuttings of plants held over inside during
the winter.  These plants include begonias, impatiens and coleus.
   Divide old, large clumps of chrysanthemums during April.  Failure
to divide the plants may result in weak, spindly growth with only a
few flowers.
   During April you can prune flowering shrubs such as spirea,
flowering quince, azalea, viburnum, dutzia, pittosporum, Philadelphus
and jasmine after they have bloomed.
   If you want healthy roses this year you should have a planned,
systematic spray schedule.  For best results, spray or dust roses with
a fungicide before disease organisms attack and keep a protective
covering of the chemical on the plants at all times.
 
If you're more interested in growing things which are more edible   th6,ou      
than ornamental, here are some suggestions for your vegetable garden.
   These are the vegetables you can be plant during April...snap
beans, lima beans -- sometimes called butter beans-- collards,
cucumbers, eggplants, cantaloupes, okra, southern peas, pepper
transplants, peanuts, pumpkin, winter squash, summer squash, sweet
corn, sweet potatoes, tomatoes transplants and watermelon.
   You can get specific recommendations on growing vegetables by
calling TeleTips and asking for a tape about a specific vegetable or by
calling the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
May Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1175
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1175, "May Gardening Suggestions."
   First, a look at landscape gardening...then, a look at vegetable
gardening.  During May you can plant several summer annuals and
perennials either from seed or as young plants.  Because our climate
produces such intense heat in the summer, it's a good idea to use
plants which can handle the summer heat.  Here are some plants you
may want to try:
   Gloriosa Daisy...the glorified black-eyed Susan.
   Daylilies...which will provide bloom all summer into fall, depending
on the variety.
   Periwinkle...which is an annual and which is tolerant to heat.
Periwinkle will reward you with white or lavendar blooms all summer
and into fall.
   Cockscomb...which is colorful and long lasting.  It comes in reds,
yellow and oranges.
   Zinnia...which comes in either dwarf or large sizes and which will
be heavy bloomers if you cut them often.
   Some of the other plants which can withstand the summer heat are
marigolds, geraniums, cosmos, copperleaf, croton, wandering Jew,
coleus, petunia, canna, portulaca, acalypha, alternanthera, flowering
tobacco, shrimp plant, plumbago and snow-on-the-mountain.
   You can also plant balsam, cleome, caster bean, dwarf dahlia,
four-o'clock, impatiens, moon flower, moonvine, morning glory, salvia
and sunflower. Bulbs that can be planted are caladium, canna, crinum,
hemerocallis, lycoris, water lily and zephyranthes.
 
Spring usually provides your plants with at least as much water as   ng,ou      
they need...but, summer will be a different story.  You'll need to water
your plants as summer approaches.  When you water, be sure to give
the soil a good soaking and not just an occasional sprinkling.
   And, one final note on landscape gardening...during May you'll want
to plant your chrysanthemums to insure beautiful fall color in your
garden.
   Now, let's look at vegetable gardening for May.  Here are the
vegetables which may be planted during May... eggplant and sweet
potato transplants...okra ...southern
peas...pumpkins...peanuts...watermelons...cucumbers...cantaloupes...
collards and squash.
   Here are some vegetables which you should plant no later than the
first part of May because later plantings are likely to be damaged by
the summer heat...snap beans...lima beans...sweet corn...tomatoes and
peppers.
   The intense summer heat we experience in Louisiana can really take
its toll on vegetable crops...however, there are some vegetables which
not only tolerate the summer heat...but, actually thrive on it.  These
vegetables are okra, southern peas, and eggplants...especially the green
ones.
   You can get more information about landscape gardening and
vegetable gardening by calling TeleTips and asking for a program on
the specific subject you're interested in...or you can call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
June Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1176
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1176, "June Gardening Suggestions."
   First, a look at landscape gardening and then a look at vegetable
gardening.
   Watering your plants should be one of your high priorities during
June...particularly if you have plants for which this will be their first
summer.  Water these plants often and thoroughly.  Give them good
soakings and not just frequent light sprinklings.
   Your summer annuals should reach their peak during June so you
will need to continue giving them some attention.  You should feed
them with a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 at the rate of about
one-half cup for each square yard of bed area.  Also, remove old
blooms often because annuals which are forming seed will soon stop
blooming.  Again, water these plants well.  Control pests on your
summer annuals...use the insecticide sevin for leaf-eating insects...the
insecticide malathion for leaf-sucking insects...and use acti-dion p.m.
for mildew.  Be sure to spray roses at seven to ten day intervals for
best results.
   During the summer camellias and azaleas form flower buds...so, take
care of these plants during June and the rest of the summer.  A lack
of water, plant food or too many damaging pests can affect next
year's blooms.  And if you haven't already done so, put houseplants
outdoors in shaded areas.
   The yellowing of plants is often due to chlorosis or a lack of iron
in the soil.  If plants begin to yellow, apply a chelated iron to
improve their health and color.
   Now let's look at vegetable gardening.  There are still a few
vegetables that you can plant in your garden...these include sweet
potato transplants, southern peas, squash, cucumbers, peanuts, okra,
pumpkins, collards, cantaloupes and watermelons.  Also, you can plant
tomato and pepper seed for fall production.
 
Now that we're into June, you're well aware of how hot the   an plantn.etu      
temperatures can get, but you may not be aware of what the high
temperatures do to your vegetable plants.
   High temperatures...both day and night...interfere with pollination
and fruit set in of many vegetables.  Snap beans and lima beans tend
to drop their flowers readily under these conditions.  Squash has a
tendency to produce a lot of male flowers and consequently few fruit.
Tomatoes and bell peppers also set very few fruit during the hot
months.
   If you're planning to have tomatoes in your fall garden, you should
plant the tomato seeds in mid-June.  It will take about four to five
weeks for these seed to produce transplants.  Grow them in the open
so they will be acclimated to the hot temperatures.  Pelican, Floradel,
and Hawaiian N-65 are three of the more successful fall tomato
varieties.  However, it's a good idea to try other varieties, such as
Celebrity and Mountain Pride, along with these for comparison.
   While we're on the subject of tomatoes, blossom-end rot is a
common problem on the fruit of producing tomatoes this time of the
year.  Symptoms of blossom-end rot look like dark brown, leathery
scars or rot on the bottom of the tomato.
   To help reduce the blossom-end rot problem, irrigate the soil
before it gets dry and mulch it to help keep the soil evenly moist.
   You can get more gardening information from TeleTips by calling
this number and asking for a program on the specific subject you're
interested in or you can call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
July Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1177
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1177, "July Gardening Suggestions."
   You can put your potted plants outdoors in the shade during July,
but you will need to water them everyday.  Also, because July is part
of the main growing season for potted plants, you will want to
fertilize them every week or two to promote rapid, sturdy growth.
   If you planted trees or shrubs last year, this summer is a critical
time for them.  So be sure to water them thoroughly with a weekly
soaking.
   During July you can dig and divide your irises when they have
finished blooming and the foliage begins to die down.  If you plan to
add to your iris collection, you should consider the Japanese or
Siberian irises to extend the blooming period and to add some variety
to your garden.
   The hot months, for which July easily qualifies, are the best times
to set out new palms.  Large plants are more likely to make it
through the winter, so you may want to consider size when you're
choosing your plants.  Good outdoor palms include windmill palm,
Mediterranean fan palm, Canary Island date palm and Jelly palm.
   Other plants you can set out this month are shrimp plant,
chrysanthemum, croton, acalypha, alternanthera, flowering tobacco,
plumbago and other bedding plants.
   If you're looking for something spectacular to plant for fall, try
sowing some seed of salvia...sometimes called scarlet sage.  The vibrant
red, blue, white or pink of salvia compliment other late-summer and
fall blooming plants, such as chrysanthemums, marigolds and zinnias.
   Most varieties of salvia may grow as tall as three feet. If they are
put in flower beds, they can serve as backgrounds for lower-growing
bedding plants.

   There are also dwarf varieties of salvia which seldom grow taller
than 18 inches and are available in several colors.
        If you're more of a vegetable gardener, you can begin planting
these vegetables the first week of July ... okra, cucumbers, Southern
peas, squash, cantaloupes, watermelons, pumpkins and collards.  Mid-
July is a good time to plant broccoli seeds, brussel sprouts,
cauliflower, Chinese cabbage and cabbage.  Also, you can transplant
tomatoes and bell peppers.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
August Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1178
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1178, "August Gardening Suggestions."
   Hot August days really test your interest in your landscape and the
proper care of your plants.  Working outside really is not very
pleasant during August, but there are some things which need to be
taken care of.
   If azaleas show a yellowing of foliage during summer, in most cases
it's because the plants aren't getting enough iron.
   You should correct this condition by applying aluminum sulphate or
a chelated iron compound.  This poor leaf color, sometimes called
chlorosis, may also occur on gardenias, roses, camellias, hollies and
centipede lawn grass.
   During August, be sure your chrysanthemums get enough of the
right kind of watering because they tend to wilt quickly when they
need moisture.  Fertilize mums every two weeks with a complete,
balanced fertilizer and control insects and diseases.  Don't pinch or
prune chrysanthemums during August if you want them to bloom in the
fall.  But do prune hydrangeas if you haven't already done so.
   If you're planning a vacation for August, move all your house
plants outside in a cool, shaded area and water them well before you
leave.  Bury the pots in soil or peat moss to cut down on the amount
of water the plants will need.
   Mow your lawn and give it a good sprinkling just before you leave.
Soak flower beds which have annual flowers and cut all the blooms to
encourage more blooms when you return.
   Spray plants with insecticides and fungicides for protection against
insects and diseases while you're gone.  And finally, weed the garden
before you leave.  This will help keep weed seeds from spreading.
 
If you're planning a vegetable garden, early August is a good time   stttu      
to transplant tomatoes and bell peppers.  Also, plant broccoli seeds,
cauliflower, brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage, collards, mustard,
turnips, squash, cucumbers, pumpkins, lima beans, shallots, Irish
potatoes and southern peas.  Mid-to-late August is a good time to
plant carrots, beets, snap beans and lettuce.  You can also transplant
broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
September Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                               TeleTip 1179
     This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1179, "September Gardening Suggestions."
     The September weather is fairly warm and not all that inviting
for garden work...but there are several chores which should be taken
care of during September.
   Flower buds will have already formed on many spring flowering
shrubs by September...so it is very important that you don't let these
plants go through an extended dry period without additional water.
The plants in this category which come to mind first are the azaleas
and camellias.  Also, be sure your fall flowering chrysanthemums have
enough water...and an application of fertilizer will also improve bloom
quality on mums.
   September is the time to transplant bearded iris and daylilies.  By
September, gladiola foliage should be turning brown.  Dig the gladiola
corms with the foliage intact...let them dry in a shady place for
several days and then remove the soil.  Store the gladiola corms in a
cool, dry place where they will not freeze.
   September is a good time to prepare your beds for spring flowering
bulbs because you will need to plant them during October and
November.  Also, during September you will need to prepare a place
for your candy tuft, pansies, calendulas and snapdragons because you'll
be planting them in October.
   If you would like to have more of some of your favorite shrubs
September is good time to make root cuttings of woody type plants.
   For vegetable gardeners, early September is a good time to
transplant broccoli and cauliflower.  Other vegetables to plant include-
_beets, brussels sprouts, carrots, cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, collards,
endive, English peas, snow peas, lettuce, mustard, kohlrabi, parsley,
radishes, rutabaga, shallots, spinach, Swiss chard, turnips and kale.  In
late September plant garlic and onions.
   If you would like more September gardening suggestions call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
October Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-




                           TeleTip 1180
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1180, "October Gardening Suggestions."
   October is the month to begin cleaning up your garden for next
spring.  If you had some problems with diseases and insects during the
summer, it may be a good idea to burn or bury the debris that comes
from the garden.  The reason is that some insects and diseases can
live through the winter on these materials.  If you didn't have pest
problems, work the old plant refuse into a compost where it will
decompose.
   Smoke from burning leaves may lend a welcome fragrance to the
autumn air, but you and your garden may be better off if those leaves
are put in a compost where they can decay and be used to supply
much needed organic matter for your garden next year.
   There are many ways of composting leaves and other crop residues,
ranging all the way from making a simple heap of refuse to the
systematic construction of a neat pile using alternate layers of organic
matter, soil, fertilizer and sometimes ground limestone.  How good the
compost is and how rapidly it decomposes depends on the method you
use.
   But, regardless of the method, the important thing is to save this
valuable material that nature has provided to enrich and improve soils.
   October is bulb planting time in Louisiana.  Many people add color
and beauty to their gardens early in the spring by planting hardy
spring-flowering bulbs during October.  The various kinds of tulips,
narcissus...also known as daffodils, irises and hyacinths are general
favorites.  But, there are several other hardy bulbs which deserve
some attention....these include Anemones, ranunculus, snowflakes,
Easter lilies, agapanthus, amaryllis, zephranthes, freesia, allium and
snowdrops.
   If you want to try your hand at vegetable gardening, there are
several vegetables which can be planted during October.  The ones
which should be planted during the first part of the month are leaf
lettuce, Chinese cabbage, carrots and beets.
   Other vegetables which can be planted in October are cabbage,
collards, mustard, turnips, spinach, kale, parsley, celery, Swiss chard,
shallots, garlic, radishes, endive and onions planted from seed.
   And, just a word about strawberries which are planted during
November in the southern part of the state for picking in the spring.
The variety Tangi has proven to be the best, particularly for the
southern part of the state.  The size of the Tangi berries is excellent
as compared to other varieties.  So, you can be thinking about where
you will get your strawberry plants, but don't put them in the ground
until November.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
November Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1181
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1181, "November Gardening Suggestions."
   Mid-October to mid-November is the time for planting most spring-
blooming bulbs in Louisiana.  The November 15 deadline is especially
true for anemones, daffodils, iris, jonquils, narcissus, ranunculus, and
zephyranthes.  You can plant hyacinths in November and tulips in late
November or the middle of December.  But be sure that the bulbs have
been refrigerated for six to eight weeks before you plant them.
   Several annuals may be sown from seeds in November.  These
include sweet peas, oriental poppy, snap dragons, sweet allysum and
nasturtium.
   Pansy plants can also be set out in November... and in November
it's still not too late to divide perennials, particularly shasta daisies
and violets.
   Ground covers such as liriope, monkey grass, and ajuga can be
safely divided and transplanted through November.
   Before the arrival of cold weather, cold-tender plants such as
amaryllis, hibiscus, plumbago, gerberas, and cold-tender vines should be
mulched with a two- or three-inch layer of pine straw, leaves or pine
bark to protect them from early freezes.
   Caladiums should be dug before the freezing temperatures kill them.
Dig caladiums with the foliage intact, air dry them for several days in
the shade. Then, remove foliage and store them in a cool place where
they won't freeze.
 
Also, dahlia roots should be dug and stored after the first frost    inesu      
kills the tops.  Before you dig them, cut off the old tops to within
four or five inches of the soil and leave them in the ground for two
or three days.  Then, dig up the roots and wash off the soil.  Allow
the roots to air dry in the shade for several days and store them in
old newspaper, peat moss or some similar material in a cool area of
the house where they're not likely to freeze.
   Don't forget to take care of your garden tools after you're finished
with them for the winter.  Give them a good cleaning and oiling.  If
you put them away dirty, they're likely to rust and be more difficult
to use in the spring.
   For those of you who are interested in vegetable gardening, there
are still a few vegetables that can be planted in November.  You can
plant mustard, turnips, shallots, cabbage, spinach, collard transplants,
garlic and kale.
   Just a reminder...if you plan on having strawberries ready for
picking by the spring, November is the time to plant them in South
Louisiana.  The variety Tangi has proven to be the best, particularly
for the southern part of the state.  The size of the Tangi berries is
excellent as compared to other varieties.
        If you want or need other gardening information, call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
December Gardening Suggestions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1182
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1182, "December Gardening Suggestions."
   If you have holiday plants such as poinsettias, chrysanthemums,
Christmas peppers, Christmas begonias, or the like, you can enjoy
their colors for several weeks during the holiday season if you give
them the right kind of care.
   You must remember that most holiday plants have been out of the
greenhouse for only a short time and there's usually a considerable
difference between the environment of the greenhouse and the
environment of your home.  Poor light will cause the leaves to drop
off the plants, so put the plants where they will get some morning
sun.
   You'll need to keep the house at a fairly constant temperature.
Most flowering plants will do best in temperatures of 65 degrees to 70
degrees.  Some plants like temperatures even a little cooler.
   When it comes to watering these holiday plants, you will need to
keep them just slightly moist.  Most house plants tend to do better if
the soil is slightly on the dry side rather than on the wet side.
Overwatering will make the leaves drop off more quickly.
   It's not easy to control the humidity in your house, but plants
grow best in the parts of the house where the humidity is
greatest...usually in the kitchen area.  Sometimes you can help improve
the humidity around a plant by putting the plant on a pebble-filled
saucer with water just below the base of the pot...but not touching it.
   Early winter is the best time to plant azaleas and camellias.  But
don't wait until they're in bloom.  If conditions are favorable in
December, it's best to transplant so roots may become well established
before new growth and blooms in the spring.      One of the main
gardening activities for December is protecting your plants from
damaging cold weather.  Some plants which will probably need
protection are citrus trees, poinsettias, cassia, rubber plants, hibiscus,
allamanda, bougainvillea, philodendron, succulents, copper plants,
coleus, silk oak, and night-blooming jasmine.
   You'll need to physically protect your plants by covering both the
upper parts and the soil over the roots.  Covering just the exposed
parts of the plants is not enough.
   Remove all the protective coverings on the parts of the plants
above the ground immediately after the danger of freezing
temperatures has passed.
   As far as covering the soil is concerned...mulch tender plants or
those which you think are susceptible to cold damage, with mulches
such as leafmold, leaves, bagasse, pine needles or sawdust.
   Also, you may need to water your plants if you're expecting a
freeze.  Many plants are killed because they don't get enough water
and they become dehydrated.
   You may want to remember...the months of December, January, and
February are the best months for transplanting trees and shrubs.
   If you're thinking in terms of vegetable gardening, some cool
season crops are fairly hardy and may be planted this month.  You can
still plant mustard, shallots, turnips, spinach, endive, escarole and
transplant onions. Also, now is a good time to plant cabbage seed in
cold frames so they'll produce transplants for spring harvest.
   If you have questions about other gardening activities for the
month of December, call the home economist or county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Aucuba. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1200
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1200,
"Aucuba."
   Aucuba is a member of the dogwood family.  This native plant of
Japan is valued for its glossy green leaves and bright red berries.
   A coarse-textured, broadleaf evergreen, it has a moderate growth
rate and reaches a height of seven feet with a spread of up to five
feet.  Aucuba has dense, dark-green foliage.
   It grows best when it's protected from full sun, heat and high
winds.  When the aucuba is exposed to these adverse conditions, the
leaves turn brown to black.  Aucuba is tolerant of most insect pests
and requires little maintenance when it's grown in moderately acid,
high-organic soil.  Fungus may infest the leaves, however, and cause
the stems to turn black.  You can control fungus diseases with a
copper spray.
   When you use aucuba around a building, plant it at least three or
four feet away from the foundation.  If you want berries, be sure to
plant both male and female.
   The most popular variety of aucuba is called "Gold Dust."  The
name comes from its yellow-green variegated leaves.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Ajuga. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1201
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1201,
"Ajuga."
   Ajuga, commonly called Bugleflower, is a popular ground cover.
It's used in rock gardens and as an underplanting for trees and
shrubs.  Ajuga will grow in shade, on flat areas and on slopes.
   Ajuga grows about five inches high.  It has a dense, compact form.
Its dark green foliage is three to four inches long and about an inch
wide.  Some varieties turn bronze in the fall.
   Few ground covers grow as easily and as quickly as ajuga.  It
spreads by runners, much like strawberries.  For a quick cover, plant
ajuga eight to ten inches apart.  It's easy to propagate.  Even the
smallest piece with roots will take hold.
   Ajuga can be planted anytime during the growing season, but it
does have a shallow root system and should be watered in dry
weather.
   Ajuga has a serious disease, crown rot, which causes plants to wilt
and die suddenly.  This disease is most common in hot, dry weather
and occurs most often on heavy, poorly drained soils.  To control
crown rot, remove affected plants and the soil around their roots.
Drench the area with terraclor (spelled t-e-r-r-a-c-l-o-r).  Use one
tablespoon of terraclor in a gallon of water.
   You can get more detailed information about groundcovers by
asking for TeleTip 1240 "Groundcovers."
   If you still have other questions about growing ajuga, call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Bamboo. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1202
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1202,
"Bamboo."
   Bamboo is native to the tropical regions of Southeast Asia.  It
grows well in most soils of Louisiana.  Depending on the variety,
bamboo grows from two to thirty feet tall.  Because it grows so
rapidly, it can easily become a landscape pest.
   Most garden centers sell "hedge" bamboo.  This variety grows to a
height of 10 to 12 feet and can be confined to its intended area fairly
easily.  Other varieties are grown with underground barriers to control
their growth.
   Bamboo can be grown in either sun or shade.  It does not produce
any showy flowers, berries or fruit...and it's used mostly because it
has so many stems and slender leaves.  For more vigorous growth,
fertilize bamboo with a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 during the
spring.
   You can plant bamboo to form a screen or a hedge.  When you're
establishing a hedge, plant the clumps four to six feet apart.  Bamboo
makes an excellent container plant for use on a patio or a deck.  It
also makes an excellent cane fishing pole.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Boxwood. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1204
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1204,
"Boxwood."
   The American boxwood is a tall, evergreen shrub used for
foundation plantings.  It has long been associated with the colonial
homes of the South.
   Boxwoods thrive in well-drained, sandy, loamy soils that are high in
organic matter and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.  They like semi-shade.
Avoid full sun and dry, hot locations.
   Boxwood has shallow roots and cultivating around them can disturb
the root system.  Mulch boxwood with pine needles or other organic
materials.  This will help to conserve moisture, reduce weeds and help
them get established.  Be sure to water them thoroughly, but don't
plant them near drain spouts.  They don't like wet feet.
   Prune boxwood yearly for the first few seasons after planting.
Prune in early summer so that new growth can harden off before the
first frost.  Keep all dead twigs and branches pruned.  They provide
ideal conditions for disease-causing fungi.  After the first few years,
prune the plants periodically until you get them plants to the size you
want them.
   Fertilize boxwoods in early spring.  Apply more fertilizer in early
June.  If the soil hasn't been tested, use one or two pounds of 8-8-8
per 100 square feet of surface area.  Don't apply fertilizer within six
inches of the main stem.
   American boxwoods are especially susceptible to boxwood leaf
miners.  These are insect larvae that feed between the two surfaces of
leaves.  Other insects that attack boxwoods include boxwood phyllid
nymphs and Japanese wax scale.  You can control them with malathion.
 
Spider mites attack boxwoods, too.  Two applications of   malathion.ofxus,      
Kelthane...one week apart...will control spider mites.
   The most common disease of boxwoods is phytophthora root rot.  It
can injure the plant seriously.  There's no chemical cure for this
disease, but here are some suggestions to help you avoid it.....
   Be sure to buy healthy plants.  Don't plant boxwoods in poorly
drained areas.  If you must plant them in clay soils, build up the beds.
Mix pine bark into the planting site to a depth of 12 inches and
remove any dead or dying branches promptly.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Crape Myrtles. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1207
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1207,
"Crape Myrtles."
   The most popular small flowering tree used in Louisiana landscapes
is the crape myrtle.  There are a number of reasons for the popularity
of the crape myrtle...its availability...its long blooming season...its
freedom from serious pests and its ability to grow under most
Louisiana conditions.
   The crape myrtle begins blooming in May and you're likely to see
colors such as watermelon red, shades of lavender, red, pink, white
and even variegated colors.
   The crape myrtle is sometimes called the "Southern Lilac" or the
"Flowering Tree for l00 Days" because it blooms off and on during a
three month period.
   If you have a crape myrtle in your yard, as soon as the flower
heads fade, they should be pruned from the plant with a knife or
shears.  You should make the cut right behind the old flower
head...leaving as much foliage and stem as possible.  New growth will
appear and new flowers will follow in about three to five weeks.
Then, as soon as these second flowers begin to fade, they should be
cut from the plant.  In many cases, you'll find that you will get a
third blooming stage in the fall.
   Crape myrtles should get full sunlight most of the day.  You'll find
that crape myrtles planted in shady areas will produce diseased, weak,
and spindly plants with only a few flowers.
   Container-grown crape myrtles can be bought and transplanted
anytime of the year as long as you're careful to give them enough
water after they're transplanted.  Although crape myrtles can be
planted anytime, the best time to plant them is in the winter when
the plant is dormant.
   Crape myrtles need to be fertilized...generally this tree will need
about one pound of fertilizer for every year of age of the tree...up to
ten pounds.  Apply the fertilizer by punching holes about twelve to
fifteen inches deep into the soil...and about two feet from the trunk
of the tree.  Use one cup of fertilizer, which is about a half pound,
in as many holes as is needed to get to the amount needed by the
tree.
   When you're looking for crape myrtles, you'll find three general
kinds... dwarf...the improved weeping types...and the old, standard,
upright varieties.
   Unfortunately, it's hard to buy crape myrtles by variety.  Most of
them are sold by color and size.  However, several named varieties
which are fairly common include "Near East" which is flesh pink,
grows vigorously and has an outstanding sculptural form.  "Pink
Ruffles" is a deep pink flowering dwarf.  "Cherokee" is a bright, true
red that is medium sized.  "William Toovey" is the most common large
watermelon red.  "Potomac" is a large, long-flowered clear pink
variety.  "Seminole" is a clear pink plant with large flowers and
several bloom cycles.  "Powhatan" is light purple and reported to be
mildew resistant.
   If you would like more information on crape myrtles call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Gardenias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1210
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1210,
"Gardenias."
   The gardenia is a popular flowering shrub in Louisiana.  This
delightful evergreen has distinctive glossy foliage and fragrant, white,
waxy flowers which bloom in late spring and summer.  The blossoms
have been a favorite with gardeners for generations.
   Gardenias grow on a wide range of soils, but they do best in moist,
loamy, well-drained soil.  The soil pH should be between 5.0 and 6.0.
Gardenias grow best in soil mixed with organic matter such as peat,
bark and sewage sludge.  Mulching will help, too.  Each spring,
fertilize gardenias with a complete garden fertilizer such as 8-8-8 and
apply additional iron.  Apply fertilizer a second time in early or mid-
summer.  Don't fertilize gardenias in the fall.  Doing so will stimulate
tender growth which may be killed if the temperature in winter drops
below 15 degrees.
   White flies often attack gardenias.  They can be controlled by
using Orthene (spelled o-r-t-h-e-n-e) or oil sprays such as oilicide
(spelled o-i-l-i-c-i-d-e) or Volck (spelled v-o-l-c-k).
   The oil sprays will control the white fly and remove the black,
sooty mold from gardenia leaves.  When using oil sprays, follow
manufacturer's directions.  They cannot be used when temperatures are
very hot or cold.
   Prune gardenias after they have finished flowering.  This is usually
in late May or early June.  Prune late-flowering varieties after
flowering is completed.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Hollies. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/16/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1211
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1211,
"Hollies."
   Chinese and Japanese hollies are two of the most popular types
planted in Louisiana.  First, let's look at the Chinese holly.  When
they're left alone they will grow as tall as twenty feet...but most
people control this growth by pruning them.
   Chinese hollies are tolerant of poor soils and poor drainage.  Of
course, this makes them easy to grow.  They will grow in shade...but
for best growth and fruiting, they need at least six hours of sun each
day.
   The most common mistake most people make in growing Chinese
hollies is failing to prune the plants for several years after planting.
When the pruning is finally done, it's often severe and this results in
an unattractive shrub.
   A good time to prune hollies is at Christmas.  Use the dark green,
glossy foliage and the red berries for decorating.  Prune hollies only
to shape them or to remove dead or injured branches.
   For a heavy berry crop, be sure to have both male and female
plants nearby.  Sometimes a male branch can be grafted onto the back
of a female plant.
   Fertilize Chinese hollies in mid-March or late fall.  When scale
insects attack hollies, control them with an insecticide called
Malathion.
   The other popular holly mentioned earlier is the Japanese holly.
Japanese hollies come in several varieties, they grow slowly and grow
three to five feet high.  They can be planted in either sun or shade
and grow best in clay soils.
 
The size of the leaf is the characteristic that helps you distinguish   s,      
one variety of Japanese holly from another one.  The leaves are
usually between one-half and one-inch long and from one-fourth to
one-half inch wide.  They're shiny and deep green.
   Japanese hollies have dense, slender, brittle branches that break
easily at the main stem.  They're a low maintenance plant, so little
pruning is needed except for an occasional shaping.
   When you plant Japanese hollies, be sure to mix in plenty of
organic matter with the soil.  Each spring, broadcast a complete
fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, throughout the bed.  Use about two
pounds of fertilizer for 100 square feet of planting area.  Water the
plants thoroughly after you apply the fertilizer.  Don't use more than
the recommended amount of fertilizer.  If you do, you may burn the
roots of the plants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Shrubs for Louisiana Landscapes," call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Hydrangia. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1212
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1212,
"Hydrangia."
   Hydrangea or bigleaf hydrangea, as it's often called, does well
throughout Louisiana.  Plant hydrangeas in a semi-shaded area where
the soil is moist and well drained.  The soil should be rich in organic
matter.  Each spring, fertilize with a mixed fertilizer such as 8-8-8.
   Hydrangeas will grow at a pH of 5.0 to 8.0.  At a a pH of 6.5 to
8.0, the flowers are pink.  At a pH of 5.0 to 6.5, the flowers are blue.
   Hydrangeas have a shallow, fibrous root system.  They must be
watered during dry spells.  Some people call hydrangeas the "indicator"
plant because it can indicate the soil pH by the color of its flower.
   It's also one of the first plants to wilt when plants are under
drought stress.  A wilted hydrangea usually indicates that all garden
and yard plants need water.  If an hydrangea becomes too dry, it may
suffer leaf "burn" or "scorch" during hot, dry weather.
   Sometimes, hydrangeas make healthy, vigorous leaf and stem growth
but fail to bloom.  Many old, established plants stop flowering after a
few years.  Sometimes, this occurs when hydrangeas are planted near
larger shrubs which cast too much shade.  Other conditions that will
result in a failure to bloom or decreased flowering are poor soil, over-
fertilization, cold temperatures and late pruning.  Prune hydrangeas
immediately after flowering.  Flower buds are formed in the fall.  If
you wait too late to prune, you will reduce the number of flowers.
 
Because hydrangeas drop their leaves in winter, they aren't good   Ifer-s,      
foundation plants for a building.  Sometimes, they're planted along the
side walls or across the back of a building if evergreen shrubs are
nearby.  Hydrangeas are best when they're planted in masses in a side
or rear yard where they can be viewed at a distance.  Mass them in
beds near azalea plantings and they will extend flower color into
summer after azalea blooms have fallen.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Juniper. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1213
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1213,
"Juniper."
   There are many different kinds of junipers.  The two main ones
grown in Louisiana are Chinese junipers and creeping junipers.  All
are narrow-leafed evergreens, but they vary in size, growth habit,
color and form.  Junipers can be grown as ground covers, foundation
plantings and screens.
   All junipers have common characteristics.  They can be grown in
full sun and they can tolerate poor soils, but they don't like wet feet.
Plant them in well-drained soil.  Common pests of junipers are
bagworms and spider mites.  Bagworms can be controlled by picking
them off by hand.  Control spider mites by spraying with
Kelthane...spelled K-E-L-T-H-A-N-E.
   Many junipers grow rapidly and can easily overgrow their intended
boundries.  Learn something about the characteristics of junipers
before you plant them.  The Chinese junipers have an upright and
spreading form.  The Pfitzer variety of Chinese juniper has branches
that are at an angle of about 25 degrees to the ground.  Pfitzer
juniper...spelled P-F-I-T-Z-E-R...has green needles and grows about
five feet tall.  Leave plenty of space if you plant this variety.
   Hetzi juniper is even larger.  It grows nine feet tall and spreads to
a width of 10 to 12 feet.  Hetzi...spelled H-E-T-Z-I...has blue-green
foliage and branches that are at about a 45-degree angle to the
ground.
   The horizontal junipers are usually planted as ground covers.  Their
maximum height is about two feet and they have a spread of four or
five feet.  Shore juniper is a popular horizontal juniper used as a
ground cover.
 
Again, learn the characteristics of junipers before you choose one   iros,      
and plant it.  Most junipers should be pruned on the tips every year.
They don't like to be pruned heavily more often than every four or
five years.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Ligustrum. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1215
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1215,
"Ligustrum."
   You may have heard ligustrum called glossy privet.  This is the
name by which ligustrum is sold at most garden centers.
   Ligustrum--or glossy privet--is an old, established landscape plant
in Louisiana.  This tough, durable shrub can grow in almost any soil.
It can grow in full sun or in partial shade.
   Ligustrum is an upright, fast-growing evergreen that often reaches
a height of 12 to 15 feet.  Its leaves are round and smooth and
medium to dark green in color.  The plant produces small white
flowers.  Although the flowers aren't showy, they are fragrant.
   Ligustrum is most effective when it's used as a hedge.  It's not
recommended as a foundation plant because it can easily become too
large.  One current use of ligustrum is as a specimen tree.  Simply
prune off the side branches, expose the main stem, and you have what
appears to be an evergreen tree.
   The dwarf, more ornamental variety of ligustrum, is called curly
leaf ligustrum.  It is recommended as a specimen plant for container.
It has an interesting, twisted habit of leaf growth and reaches a
height of about four feet.  Growing conditions for curly leaf are
generally the same as those for regular ligustrum.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Liriope. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1216
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1216,
"Liriope."
   Liriope, sometimes called lilytuft, is among the best evergreen
ground covers available.  It's actually a lily...a stemless evergreen
plant which multiplies rapidly and needs very little care.  Liriope can
be used under trees and shrubs or as a mass planting on slopes and
banks or as an edging plant.
   Liriope can grow as high as twelve inches and it has broad, dark-
green, grass-like leaves.  There is also a variegated variety which has
white striped leaves.
   In August, liriope produces small clusters of flowers on a center
spike and these are followed by clusters of berry-like fruit.
   Liriope grows at a moderate rate.  It does best in shade but it will
tolerate full sun and it can endure heat, drought and salt spray.
   In starting your liriope, you should space the plants about one foot
apart.  Planting should be done in fall.  The plants will multiply,
forming clumps.  It's best to dig and separate these clumps every
three to four years.  Another suggestion is to shear off the top of
your liriope with a lawn mower each spring.  The plants will then look
less ragged as the new growth emerges.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Ground Covers for Louisiana Landscapes," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mahonia. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1217
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1217,
"Mahonia."
   Mahonia or Oregon grape, as it is often called, is a member of the
barberry family and a native of the Orient.  It is an attractive
broadleaf evergreen which is useful in many landscapes.
   Mahonia is a popular accent plant for foundations, and it has
recently been featured as a container plant for use on patios and
decks.
   Mahonia grows slowly and may reach a height of three to six feet
and a spread of three to five feet.  It grows as an irregular grouping
of upright stems.
   Mahonia has bright yellow flowers, which bloom in late fall or
winter followed by bluish black fruit.
   You should plant mahonia in shade or at least partial shade, such
as that found on the north or east side of buildings.  Mahonia grows
well in most soils, but it does require good drainage.  The soil should
have a pH of 6.5 to 7.  Because of this relatively high pH, mahonia is
not recommended for planting
 with azaleas or camelias, which need a lower pH.
   Prune mahonias by removing one-third of the older, taller canes to
within 3 to 4 inches of the ground.  Pruning should be done in spring
and may only be needed every 3 to 4 years.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
 
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperativegsdos,      
-End-
-Title-
Mondo Grass. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1218
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1218,
"Mondo Grass."
   Mondo grass or monkey grass is an evergreen ground cover with
dark green leaves that are grass-like in texture.  Plants spread rapidly
by underground root stalks.  They can cover an entire area fairly
quickly, converting it into a mass of dark green foliage.
   Mondo grass grows best in shaded areas with rich soil and good
drainage.
   Plant mondo grass in the fall and space your clumps of grass about
five inches apart.
   Mondo grass is nearly maintenance free.  It requires no pruning,
and there are no insects or diseases that bother it.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Ground Covers for Louisiana Landscapes," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Nandina. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1219
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1219,
"Nandina."
   Nandina, which some people call Heavenly Bamboo, is a versatile
landscape plant.  Nandina is grown throughout Louisiana as a
foundation plant and most recently as an accent plant or specimen
plant for containers.
   Nandina grows as a mass of upright, unbranched stems.  The leaves
will range from deep green in shady locations to a light green or
reddish purple in the sun.  Nandina blooms in mid-spring but has only
moderately showy, white flowers.  The shrub is appreciated most for
its bright red berries in the fall and winter.
   For best results, Nandina should be planted in partial shade.  Try
to choose a spot with rich soil and good drainage.  Don't plant
Nandina between curbs and sidewalks because the soil temperature will
be too high for it.
   After several years, the plant will become "leggy"... that's when the
inner canes or stems should be removed starting near the ground.
This should be done in late winter or early spring.  You'll end up with
a more compact plant with foliage from ground level upward.
   By selectively pruning Nandinas yearly, you won't sacrifice its
flowers and berries.
   Nandina comes in the standard size which grows to 5 feet or more.
Compact varieties grow to a height of 2 to 4 feet, while dwarf
Nandinas seldom grow taller than 2 feet.
   Nandina has few insect and disease pests, however the dwarf kinds
are susceptible to powdery mildew.               For more gardening
information and suggestions, call the county agent or home economist
in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Palms. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1220
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1220,
"Palms."
   Most palms are too large to use as house plants, but the pygmy
palm and the parlor palm can be used indoors.
   The pygmy palm grows best in diffused light and is happy in an
east window where it can get morning sun.  If it shows sign of leaf
burn, move it a few feet from the window or put sheer curtains
between it and the glass.  It can eventually grow as tall as 12 feet,
but it takes many years before it even begins to form a trunk.
   The parlor palm grows rapidly to about eight feet in height.  It is
tolerant of dim light, so it's ideal to use against an inside wall of a
room.
   Both palms grow best in a regular potting soil mixture containing
one part peat, one part garden loam and one part sand.  Keep the soil
evenly moist, except in winter.  In winter, let the soil become dry to
the touch before watering.  Sponge the leaves with a damp cloth about
once a week.  Palms like a warm temperature--about 76 to 78 degrees.
   Large containers, like tubs, are good for palms.  They can grow for
years in the same container, but do re-pot them every few years.
While many foliage plants require daily care, once palms adjust to
home conditions, they need little care.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Photinia. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1223
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1223,
"Photinia."
   Photinia...usually called "red tip"...is an excellent choice for a
screen or hedge planting.  This evergreen shrub is a native of China
and a member of the rose family.
   Photinia grows to a height of 15 to 20 feet, and it can be grown
as a multi-stemmed large shrub or as a small tree.  Repeated pruning
may be necessary to get the form and intensity you want.
   The new growth on photinia is a brilliant red.  This is why it's
sometimes called "red tip."  The red changes to dark green as the
growth matures.
   Photinia grows well in most soils as long as they aren't too wet.
In wet, poorly drained soils, photinia is subject to root rot.  The plant
likes either full sun or partial shade.
   The most popular variety is the hybrid Frazieri...spelled F-R-A-Z-I-
E-R-I.  It is tolerant of most growing conditions and most weather
conditions.  It can be damaged by a late frost though.  Other
photinias that grow well in heavy soils are Chinese photinia and red
leaf photinia.  Don't plant photinia too close to a building.  It should
be at least five or six feet away from the foundation.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pyracantha. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1225
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1225,
"Pyracantha."
   Pryacantha, commonly called firethorn, is a shrub that is often
misplaced in the landscape.  This rapid growing, broadleaf evergreen is
not recommended for planting around the foundation of a single story
building.  It grows too large too fast.
   On the other hand, pyracantha makes an excellent hedge.  It can
be espaliered against a wall, but you should realize how much
maintenance is required to prune a pyracantha.  Also, if pyracantha is
planted under an overhang or eaves, where direct rainfall cannot hit
the branches, pests such as spider mites are likely to be a problem.
   Pyracantha can grow to a height of 8 to 15 feet, and it can spread
to be that wide.  Pyracantha grows upright...in fact, old plants become
almost tree-like.  Pyracantha produces good fall color because its
clusters of berries turn red then.  The berries will last until spring.
Pyracantha should be planted in a sunny place.
   Pyracantha has one distinct characteristic.  Instead of young stems
terminating in a bud or additional shoot, they seem to die and develop
into a spine-like point.  These points can be quite painful if you get
stuck by them.
   Flowers and berries of pyracantha are produced only on growth
that is at least one year old.  So, some of the older growth must be
left on the plant when it is pruned, if you expect to have any flowers
and berries. 
Pruning can be done at almost any season, but winter or early                   
spring pruning is recommended.  If you wait until early spring when
flowering occurs, you can selectively prune to leave flower clusters so
you will have berries in the fall.  Some pruning may be necessary
during spring and summer to remove excessive growth.  Remember,
always leave some of the growth made each year so you'll have
flowers and berries.
   If you would like to have more gardening information or other
suggestions, call the county agent or home economist in your parish
office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Vines. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/2/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1228
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1228,
"Vines."
   Louisiana gardeners have vines for every season and almost every
reason for use in landscaping.  There's even some species that appear
designed for the impatient gardener who wants an instant landscape.
These include the morning glory, hyacinth bean, and cypress vines.
   Seasonal varieties feature such spring species as the Carolina
jasmine, wisteria and red honeysuckle.  Popular early summer
specimens are the star, often called the Confederate jasmine, morning
glory, hyacinth bean, cypress vine, and the Rosa de Montana or coral
vine.  The Virginia creeper and autumn clematis are two fall favorites.
   These vines have many functional as well as attractive uses.
Unsightly chain-link fences can be decoratively draped and patios
screened for privacy with evergreen vines.  English ivy flourishes in
partial or full shade while Confederate jasmine drapes well in shade or
sun.
   When vines are used overhead for shade over sunny patios or as
backdrops at pool side, select a variety that will loose its leaves in
cold weather to allow warm rays from the winter sun to filter
through.  Popular vines for overhead structures include wisteria,
grapes, morning glory and Rosa de Montana.
   In spite of their beauty, keep in mind some fast-growing vines such
as wisteria and common honeysuckle can be a nuisance.  Such rapid
spreading vines demand fast and routine control to keep them in place.
If allowed to spread, their profuse growth can cover the tops of
shrubs, cutting off proper light and aeration.  Also, large twining
vines, such as wisteria, can injure a tree by choking off the flow of
food from the roots.                             A better variety to
plant near trees is the English ivy which doesn't feed off their trunks
and branches.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the home
economist or county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Waxmyrtle. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1230
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1230,
"Waxmyrtle."
   Waxmyrtle is native to the sandy swamplands of coastal Louisiana
and other southeastern states.  However, it can be grown in all parts
of Louisiana.
   Waxmyrtle is a most versatile landscape shrub.  You can use
waxmyrtle as a screen or hedge...as a specimen plant for a patio or
deck, or you can prune away the lower branches and use it as a small
tree.  But don't use waxmyrtle as a foundation plant.  It gets too big
to be a foundation plant.
   Waxmyrtle is a broadleaf evergreen which grows to a height of 15
to 20 feet and spreads to a width of 10 to 12 feet.  The leaves are
dark green and have a pleasing odor when they're crushed.  Waxmyrtle
tends to develop multiple stems and the bark is attractive, which is
why some people like to use it as a small tree.
   Where other broadleaf evergreens have trouble growing because of
such things as poor soil and poor drainage, you can usually use
waxmyrtle.
   One word of caution:  Waxmyrtle is difficult to transplant from
native areas, but it can be purchased at most garden centers.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Air-layering. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/2/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1232
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1232,
"Air-layering."
   If your tropical plants have that worn out, ragged look after
spending a winter inside the home, there's a way they can be
revitalized without spending money on new ones.
   In most cases they can be rejuvenated by an uncomplicated process
known as air-layering.  And, the materials needed to put new life into
old plants can be found around the home.
   Ideal candidates for air-layering include such plants as schefflera,
dracaena, dieffenbachia and rubber plants that have become very tall
and spindly with age.  This condition causes leaves at the bottom to
drop off and leave a cluster at the top of the stalk.
   In making an air-layer, you're going to root the top portion of a
plant while it is still attached to the trunk.  You will need a sharp
knife, moist peat moss or sphagnum moss, heavy plastic or kitchen foil
and a freezer or bread bag tie.
   Begin by making a small v-shaped cut around the stem at the place
where new root growth is desired.  Place a cluster of moist peat moss
or sphagnum moss around the cut.  Wrap the heavy plastic or foil
around the moss and use the freezer bag or bread bag tie to hold the
covering in place around the cut.
   Roots should begin forming in three to four weeks.  Once you
observe a heavy mass of roots, cut below the root formation and plant
the new cutting in a standard potting mix. 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county                 
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Controlling Powdery Mildew on Shrubs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/19/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1233
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1233,
"Controlling Powdery Mildew on Shrubs."
   Powdery mildew can affect many Louisiana shrubs.  The severity of
this disease depends on several things:  the age and condition of the
plants, when the plan is infected, and the weather conditions during
the growing season.
   Plants in Louisiana that can be affected seriously by powdery
mildew are roses, zinnias, crape myrtle and euonymous.  Infected
plants typically have a grayish-white, powdery coating over the leaves.
Later in the season this coating may be dotted with small brown or
black specks.  Infected leaves are often distorted, curled or twisted.
They may be smaller than normal.  Leaves that are affected seriously
may be yellow with small patches of green.  They may fall
prematurely.
   Mildew likes warm weather.  It can be found in mid-summer when
most fungi have stopped growing.  Mildew is most severe on young,
succulent tissue resulting from heavy nitrogen fertilization and
watering.  The disease is usually more common in crowded plantings.
   Because environment plays a large role in the development of
powdery mildew, you may be able to control the disease by making the
environment less attractive to it.  Space plantings so air can circulate,
and avoid poorly drained soils.  Collect and remove lawn clippings.
Don't apply too much water and fertilizer.  Rake and burn infected
leaves and shoots to destroy the overwintering stages of the fungus. 
Chemical control of powdery mildew is effective.  Use it if the                 
disease is serious enough to justify the expense.  Because most of the
mildew fungus is external, this disease is among the few that can be
controlled after infection has occurred.  Several fungicides are
available for mildew control.  Among these are sulfur, Karathane,
Actidione PM, Phaltan, Benomyl and Triforene.  Use them with care
and according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Espaliering Shrubs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1236
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1236,
"Espaliering Shrubs."
   Espalier is the practice of controlling plant growth so that it grows
flat against something such as a wall.  Should you decide to use an
espaliered plant in your landscape, be sure you select a plant which
can be managed on the wall.  Large, fast-growing plants like
pyracantha require a huge walled area and they need many hours of
pruning every year.
   On the other hand, Camellia Sasanqua grows much slower and can
be managed in a small area fairly easily.
   Most nurseries have several different plants that have already had
the first pruning to give them their basic shape.  However, almost any
young plant can be used this way.
   You should put the plant very near the wall and set it in the
ground just as you would most other plants.  As the plant grows, you
will need to anchor it to the wall...you can get the small anchoring
devices from your nursery or garden center.
   You should keep in mind that in most situations, you will not want
more than one espaliered plant in a given area...the exception would
be if the plant looked very natural or was not prominent.
   An espaliered plant can be a very distinctive feature in your
landscape and can often be used where no other plant can be used.
   If you would like to have more information about espaliering
shrubs, call the county agent or home economist in your parish office
of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               n Service.nomist in your parish officey          
-End-
-Title-
Fertilizing Shrubs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1237
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1237,
"Fertilizing Shrubs."
   March is the recommended time to fertilize shrubs that are already
established in your lawn.  Soil tests indicate that the three elements
most often needed by the soil are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
There are several specialty fertilizers on the market for various plants
and they all do a fine job of providing the elements the plants need.
There are special formulations for azaleas, camellias, roses and
lawns...just to name a few.  However, a complete fertilizer such as 8-
8-8 will also do a good job as an all-purpose plant food.
   How much fertilizer the plant gets depends on several things such
as the age of the plant, fertility of the soil and the texture of the
soil.  But, in general, for individual shrubs, you should apply from
one-half cup to a full cup of a complete fertilizer for each plant.
Now, for newly-planted shrubs..you would use only half this much.
   To fertilize shrubs, scratch through the mulch beneath the plant
until you get down to the soil.  Spread the fertilizer evenly around
the plant.  Don't apply it in bands and don't touch the stem of the
shrub with the dry fertilizer.
   Usually, there is enough rain in the spring to activate the
fertilizer...so, you're not likely to need to add water.
   If you would like more information and suggestions about fertilizing
shrubs, call the county agent or home economist in your parish office
of the LSU cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Ground Covers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1240
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1240,
"Ground Covers."
   Ground covers play a major role in landscape developments.
However, protecting these ground covers against weeds and grasses
can be frustrating, especially during the early days following
planting.
   The saying "the first year ground covers sleep...the second year
they creep, and the third year they leap" is an easy way for you to
remember the growth rate of ground covers.  The first two years, you
must be patient yet persistent in keeping your bed free of weeds.
Once the weeds take over, there's not much chance of saving the
ground cover.
   The best way to control weeds is to pull them by hand regularly.
You can kill the weeds with herbicides...but you're as likely to
kill the ground cover as you are the weeds.
   You can make the weeding job easier by keeping a thick layer of
mulch around the ground cover.  Water the bed well before you weed
it and you'll find it much easier to dig up the weeds.
   To make sure you get enough coverage, your ground cover plants
need to be set out just right.  For example, the grass-like ground
cover plants, like border grasses, need to be set about eight inches
apart to provide coverage in two years.
   When there is enough moisture--about an inch each week--from
either rainfall or irrigation, ground covers will thrive on regular
fertilization.  Don't fertilize after October.
   Once the ground is covered with your chosen plants, they will
compete with the weeds and grasses, making your job easier.  Then
you can sit back and enjoy your almost maintenance free ground
covers.
 
For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free   enarsengs        
pamphlet called "Groundcovers," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Salt-tolerant Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1246
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1246,
"Salt-tolerant Plants."
   Plants vary in their ability to grow in the presence of salts.
Generally, they're classified as tolerant, moderately tolerant or
sensitive to salts.
   Salts in the soil are referred to as soluble salts or total dissolved
solids (TDS).  Sodium chloride is the primary salt, but nitrates,
suphates and other soluble nutrients make up the total dissolved solids.
   Most fertilizers contain salts.  So, adding too much fertilizer
increases the salts in the soil.  If you use water with a high salt
content to water your plants, the salt can build up in the soil to a
level high enough to damage or even kill plants.  Salts can be
removed by leaching or washing them out with water that has little or
no salt in it.
   Salt-tolerant plants include some vines, shrubs and small trees.
Salt-tolerant vines are trailing lantana, lilytuft, Japanese honeysuckle
and dwarf lilytuft.  Shrubs and small trees that are salt-tolerant
include Harland's Box, thorny elaeagnus, yaupon and pfitzer juniper.
   For more information about which plants grow best in your area,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
When to Prune Flowering Shrubs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/l7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1255
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1255,
"When to Prune Flowering Shrubs."
   March is the time to prune your spring-flowering shrubs.  By
pruning the shrubs as soon as the flowers have disappeared, the plants
will have time to grow new shoots before the middle of the summer.
This is when they produce the buds for next spring's flowers.
   Some of the shrubs which should be pruned during March include
azaleas, flowering quince, forsythia, bridal wreath, nandina and
primrose jasmine.
   You should prune most flowering shrubs so that about a third of
the oldest and tallest shoots are removed each year.  Cut these leggy
shoots to within four to six inches of the ground.  The stubs left
after pruning will produce new shoots to fill in near the bottom.  This
should make the plant more compact.
   After you've finished this pruning, thin out the top of the plant.
You do this by making random cuts...being careful not to make the
plant look as though it's been butchered or severely sheared.  An
annual pruning is much better than a severe one that is done after
several years of growth.
   If you would like to have more information about pruning flowering
shrubs or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Shrubs for
Louisiana Landscapes," call the county agent or home economist in you
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               ative Extension Service.onomist in yourse        
-End-
-Title-
Brown Patches. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1301
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1301, "Brown Patches."
   The most serious disease in Louisiana lawns is brown patch.  It's
caused by a fungus which attacks almost all species of grasses during
the warm, humid early spring or fall weather.  Brown patch is
especially serious on St. Augustine and centipede grasses.
   Several factors can make grasses more susceptible to brown patch.
Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizer promotes lush growth that
is readily attacked.  Another condition that leads to severe disease
development is watering late in the afternoon.  This allows the grass
to stay wet for a long time, which makes it easier for the fungus to
grow.
   You'll recognize brown patch by the development of irregular
circular areas from a few inches in diameter to several feet in
diameter.  These areas begin as brownish orange to yellow
discolorations in the lawn.  These scalded-looking areas spread rapidly
and become large brown areas.  Generally, brown patch attacks only
the leaves and stems of the grass, but it can cause severe damage if
uncontrolled.
   To control brown patch, be sure to avoid overwatering and
overfertilization.  Use chemicals to control the fungus, if necessary.
The recommended chemicals are...Benomyl, Terraclor, Daconil 2787 and
Chipco 26019.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
_30
-End-
-Title-
Dethatching Lawns. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/30/82 (Meadows)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1302
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1302,
"Dethatching Lawns."
   Thatch is the term used to describe the accumulation or buildup of
undecomposed clippings in the lawn.  Excessive thatch buildup is
harmful because it slows the growth of grass and interferes with
insect and disease control measures. It also keeps moisture from
penetrating uniformly when the lawn is watered.  A thickness greater
than one-fourth inch is undesirable.
   To prevent thatch buildup, remove clippings when you mow,
especially if you have vigorous, dense grass like St. Augustine and
zoysia.
   Dethatching is usually done in the late summer but it can be done
in late spring or early summer if the problem is serious.  If excessive
thatch buildup does occur, it should be removed.  This can be done
manually with rakes or mechanically with a machine called a de-
thatcher.  Manual removal is difficult and usually less effective than
using a de-thatcher.  Many garden and hardware equipment centers
rent de-thatchers to homeowners.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for your lawn,
call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               

.
-End-
-Title-
Garden Trimmers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1303
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1303,
"Garden Trimmers."
   Garden trimmers which use a monofiliment line to cut weeds and
grass may damage trees, shrubs and vines if you don't use them
correctly.  These gardens trimmers can be very useful...but they
should be used for the jobs they were meant to be use for.
   Garden trimmers are excellent for trimming weeds and grasses
along driveways, walks, fences, around garden beds and the
foundation of your house.  However, if you allow the cutting line to
hit stems of small trees, shrubs or vines, you're likely to lose
part of bark off that plant.
   A ring of bark removed from around these plants results in what
is called girdling.  Girdling of the stem causes a situation in
which food can't move from the leaves to the roots.  Gradually, the
roots die...then the top of the tree turns brown and eventually, the
entire plant dies because the it can't get water from the roots and
the roots can't get food from the leaves.
   It's not uncommon to see shrub borders damaged and dying because
of the improper use of garden trimmers.  Remember, when you use one
of these tools, be sure you stay far enough away from the trunk of
small trees, shrubs and vines so that the line doesn't strike the
stem of the plants.
   If you would like to have more information about garden trimmers,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Lawn Fertilization. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Curtis)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1304
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1304,
"Lawn Fertilization."
   A lush, green lawn doesn't just happen.  It requires good
management and tender, loving care.
   To begin with, you must choose a grass suited to the soils and
climate.  Then, you must provide adequate fertilization and water, you
must control the weeds, and you must keep the lawn free of insects
and diseases.
   Fertilization of lawns should be based on the type of grass you
have, the level of soil fertility and the lawn management used.  For
best results, remove grass clippings from your lawn.  You'll need more
fertilizer, however, than if you leave the clippings on the lawn.
   In the highly fertile soils of the Mississippi River Valley, you may
not need to add lime, phosphate and potassium except where clippings
are removed.  Normally, applying a mixed fertilizer in the spring will
be sufficient.  Apply six to ten pounds of a fertilizer like 8-8-8 or
amounts of other fertilizer mixture to provide an equal amount of
nitrogen, phosphate and potassium per one thousand square feet.
   On soils of low fertility, apply twelve to fifteen pounds of a
fertilizer like 8-8-8 per one thousand square feet in the spring.
Throughout the growing season, you'll need to apply one-and-a-half to
two pounds of ammonium nitrate or other nitrogen fertilizer to supply
one-half to three-fifths of a pound of nitrogen per one thousand
square feet every eight to ten weeks.
   Remember:  Good care and adequate fertilizer can give you a lush,
green lawn.
   For more information and suggestions about lawn care, call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Lawn Insects. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1305
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1305, "Lawn Insects."
   There are four groups of lawn insects...those that infest soil and
roots...those that feed on leaves and stems...those that suck plant
juices...and those that live in the lawn but don't damage it.  The
hardest part of controlling any of these insects is identifying them.
   The first group of insects...those that infest soil and
roots...includes grubs, ants, mole crickets and bees.  Grubs are the
larvae of several species of beetles.  They are either white or
gray...they have brown heads and brown or black hind parts.  They're
usually C-shaped with three distinct pairs of legs.
   Most grubs spend about ten months of the year in the ground.
They burrow around the roots of the grass and feed on those roots
about an inch below the surface of the soil.  Moles, armadillos, skunks
and birds feed on the grubs and may tear up the sod looking for
them.
   You can estimate the size of the grub population in your lawn.
Using a spade, cut a strip of grass one foot square.  Cut the square
two-to-three inches deep on three sides.  Then, force the spade under
the sod and lay it back...loosen the soil and count the grubs.  You'll
need to do this in several areas of the yard.  If you count as many as
six grubs per square foot, you need to control them.
   Ants also fall into that first group which infests soil and roots...in
fact they build nests in the soil.  Some ants...like fire ants...build
mounds.  Others form little hills or mounds of soil around the
openings to the nest.  Ants can destroy the roots of grass if they
build the nests around them because the nesting tend to dry out the
soil.  Ants also destroy grass seed in the soil and prevent them from
sprouting and producing grass.
 
Mole crickets also infest soil.  They're brown, about an inch-and-a-   in       
half long, have short, stout forelegs, shovel-like feet, and large eyes.
Mole crickets feed on the roots of grass and their burrowing uproots
seedlings and causes the soil to dry out quickly.
   Wild bees and solitary wasps are more of a nuisance than a problem
in lawns...but, where infestations are heavy they may interfere with
growth of grass...particularly in new plantings.  Wild bees and solitary
wasps dig holes in the soil for nests and pile the soil around the
openings.  They're primarily a pest in sandy soils.
   The second group of insects which feed on leaves and stems
includes caterpillars, cutworms, armyworms, and sod webworms.  All of
these insects damage the lawn by feeding on the grass and cutting the
grass.  The damage may be in various spots in the lawn or may cover
the entire yard.  This is probably the most destructive group of
insects because a heavy infestation can completely destroy a yard in a
matter of days.
   Those insects which suck juice are the chinch bugs.  These pests
injure plants by draining them of their life fluids.  All stages of these
insects, except the egg, injure plants.  The damage appears as yellow
spots which grow rapidly, turn brown and die.  St. Augustine grass is
the main victim of chinch bugs and suffers most in hot, dry weather.
   Those insects which get in lawns but don't damage them include
slugs, snails, earwigs, fleas, ticks, chiggers, millipedes, centipedes,
sowbugs or pillbugs and spiders.  All of these insects feed on organic
matter or other insects in the lawn or other animals which cross the
lawn.
   For more information and suggestions about controlling insects in
your lawn, call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Lawn Renovation. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Meadows)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1306
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1306,
"Lawn Renovation."
   Renovating a lawn may take one of several directions.  It may
involve re-seeding or plugging areas where existing sod has been killed
by insects or disease.  Or it may mean destroying the existing sod and
re-seeding or re-sodding with new material.
   In cases of partial renovation, remove all grass in the dead areas
by raking or some other method.  Lightly re-till the affected area
before re-seeding or re-sodding.  Water these re-seeded or re-sodded
areas until the new grass is established.
   If you want to change to a different variety of grass, you'll need
to renovate the area completely.  Follow these general procedures:
   First kill the existing grass with a herbicide such as glyphosphate.
   About two weeks after applying the herbicide, till the area to a
depth of two to three inches.  During the tilling process, incorporate
lime and fertilizer according to soil test directions.  Your county
agent can give you information on soil testing.
   After leveling the area, sprig, seed or plug the new grass.
Maintain proper moisture until your new grass is established.
   For more lawn care information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mushrooms on Lawns. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/4/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1307
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1307,
"Mushrooms on Lawns."
   Sometimes, especially after a rain, mushrooms may appear in groups
on your lawn.  They are the reproductive structures of fungi that are
growing in the ground.  The part you can't see feeds on dead organic
matter in the soil.  Some mushrooms are poisonous, others aren't.  It's
best to leave all mushrooms alone because of the danger of poisoning.
   Sometimes mushrooms appear in circular patterns called fairy rings.
These fairy rings may get larger each year.  Several rings may occur
together.  As the rings grow, they may overlap.  Grass is usually
greener where the mushrooms appear.  This is caused by the release of
additional nutrients into the soil by the underground fungi.  As the
fungi decompose organic matter, the grass uses the nutrients which
are released.  Grass on the inside of the ring may be weakened or
killed.
   Fairy rings may differ in the way they affect your lawn.  Some
may appear occasionally and have no effect.  some may cause only a
greening effect, with no damage to the plants.  A third type damages
or kills plants in the lawn.
   It's hard to control fairy rings.  One method involves removing soil
from where the underground fungi are present.  This means digging a
foot-deep trench 18 inches on each side of the stimulated grass zone.
You'll have to refill the trench with fresh soil and seed or sod the
area.
   A second method involves tilling the whole area and treating it
with fumigants under a plastic tarpaulin.  Recommended fumigants are
Methyl Bromide or Vapam.                         Another approach
involves suppressing the effects of the fungi.  Increase watering and
fertilization inside the ring.  Punch some holes in this area so water
will penetrate.  Water at the first signs of wilting grass.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for your lawn,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Planting Rye Grass. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82 (Meadows)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1308
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1308,
"Planting Rye Grass."
   If you would like a new, green lawn during the winter you should
consider sowing rye grass during late October and November.  Rye
grass flourishes in Louisiana's relatively mild winter.  This type
of grass is nice in landscapes where there's not much green in
winter and especially in sites where there are many trees and shrubs
which lose their leaves.
   A rye grass lawn provides a strong contrast color in the
environment in the winter and is attractive as a background for
spring flowering bulbs and early-flowering trees and shrubs.
However, rye grass will compete with permanent grasses for
fertilizers.  So, it's recommended that you apply a complete
fertilizer when you plant the seed.  Fertilizer applications should
be repeated two months after planting and again four months after
planting.  If you don't fertilize the rye grass, it won't perform as
it should and the permanent grass will be weakened.
   Before you sow the rye seed, cut the permanent grass to a height
of about three-quarters of an inch to an inch.  Make sure the soil
is moist before you sow the seed.  Sow about three to five pounds of
rye grass per 1,000 square feed of lawn surface.  Use a mechanical
spreader so the seed are spread evenly...otherwise you could end up
with patchy appearance. For more uniform distribution, sow half the
seed in one direction and the other half from the opposite
direction.
 
Planting too much seed results in a heavy, matted turf that is   heferlse       
hard to maintain.  Since the cold weather in the state lasts such a
short time, the rye grass can grow for about three months.  If this
growth becomes too heavy, the growth of permanent grass will be
slowed at the start of spring.  Even though high temperatures will
destroy rye grass, this usually happens only after the permanent
grasses have started growing.
   Don't sow rye grass seeds in flower beds or in other areas where
you can't use a lawnmower...you'll end up having to hand weed that
area.  Also, don't let leaves accumulate to any extend on the lawn
after the seed geminate...this will damage the new grass.
   If you would like to have more information about lawn grasses,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Selecting Lawn Grass. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1310
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1310, "Selecting Lawn Grass."
   Careful selection of the proper grass is a must for successful
establishment of any lawn.  Study your lawn area and choose an
adapted grass suited to your situation.  Things you should consider
are:  the amount and density of shade, personal preference as to
texture, the amount of traffic your lawn gets, and the time you can
devote to taking care of the lawn.
   In south Louisiana, you may select from five adapted lawn grasses:
St. Augustine, centipede, zoysia, bermuda and carpet grass.
   In general, St. Augustine and zoysia grasses must be established by
sprigging or plugging.  Centipede grass may be established in this
manner or by using seed.  Common bermuda grass is established by
using seed, hybird bermuda grass by sprigging or plugging.  Carpet
grass is established by using seed.
   Shaded conditions will be tolerated by St. Augustine, zoysia and
centipede grass.  Bermuda grass and carpet grass will not tolerate
shade.
   St. Augustine is susceptible to the diseases brown patch and St.
Augustine decline.  It's also susceptible to chinch bugs.  A new variety
of St. Augustine, called Floratam, resists St. Augustine decline and is
reported to have some resistance to chinch bugs.  It's a vigorous,
coarse-textured grass that should only be planted in the coastal areas
because of freeze damage.
   Centipede grass is susceptible to the disease brown patch.  Zoysia
grass is susceptible to the rust diseases.  Centipede is the most
popular lawn grass now, followed by St. Augustine.
   Consider the advantages and disadvantages of these adapted grasses
and choose the one that fits your needs best. 
For more information and suggestions about lawn grasses or for a                
free pamphlet called "Turfgrasses For Louisiana Lawns," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                ce of the Louisiana Cooperativee                
-End-
-Title-
Slime Molds in Lawn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/4/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1311
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1311,
"Slime Molds in Lawn."
   Slime molds are unusual fungi that occur on the leaves of grasses.
They can cover spots or patches of grass with a white, grey or dark
material.
   This material is the fruiting body of the slime mold.  It looks slimy
and keeps sunlight from reaching the part of the leaves that produces
chlorophyll, or green color, and it interferes with the plant's ability to
function properly.  Leaves are yellow, weak and they prey to other
diseases.
   Slime mold usually develops in wet weather.  It lives in soil and
feeds on organic matter.  It grows out on grass leaves or stems to
reproduce. Slime molds are non-parasitic and don't warrant control.
However, spraying infested grass with water will help wash away the
molds.
   Slime molds aren't usually a serious problem, but they can cause
some ugly spots in the lawn.  Unless the spot is large or in a
strategic spot, don't worry about it.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for your lawn,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mowing Lawns. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Meadows)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1314
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1314,
"Mowing Lawns."
   Proper lawn mowing begins with the use of a mower with very
sharp blades.  Dull blades on rotary and reel mowers will produce a
shredded effect on the grass.  It will also cause an ugly brown cast in
the lawn.
   If possible, remove grass clippings when you're mowing.  This helps
avoid excessive thatch buildup which will have to be removed later.
Don't mow in the same direction each time. Alternate your mowing
direction and you'll have more upright grass growth and a smoother-
looking lawn.
   Proper mowing height is important.  Lawn grasses in Louisiana have
different heights at which they should be mowed.  The bermuda
grasses should be mowed at a one-inch height.  Mow centipede and St.
Augustine at a two-inch height.  Mow zoysia grasses at one to one
and one-half inches and carpetgrass at one and one-half to two
inches.
   For more information and suggestions about lawn care, call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Establishing a Lawn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1315
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1315, "Establishing a Lawn."
   If you're planning to establish a new lawn, have a soil test made.
Your county agent can tell you how.  Information from the test will
be used to prepare the lawn area before planting a selected grass.
   Follow these steps when establishing a new lawn:
   Clear the area of all stones and solid materials and till the area to
a depth of three to four inches.  Make sure the soil is well
pulverized.
   Establish the grade of the lawn and smooth the surface by raking
it or dragging it.
   Broadcast recommended amounts of lime and fertilizer evenly over
the area, and re-till it to a depth of two to three inches.
   Choose a suitable grass.  Consider the amount of shade, competition
from trees and the maintenance requirements of recommended grasses.
   Plant the chosen variety.  If you are seeding grass, split seed into
two lots and seed in a cross-directional manner.  If the grass is to be
plugged or sprigged, plant plugs or sprigs on six- to 12-inch centers.
   Keep the right amount of water on the new grass until it's
established.  Once the grass is established, mow at proper height to
reduce weed competition and to encourage grass to spread.
   For more lawn care information and suggestions for for a free
leaflet called, "Grasses for Louisiana Lawns," call the county agent in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Soil Subsidence In New Orleans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1316
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1316, "Soil Subsidence In New Orleans."
   Good mineral soils, the kinds that homes are built on, are limited
in the New Orleans metropolitan area.  So, growth and development
have been forced into less desirable reclaimed marsh and swamp lands.
These lands contain soils that are high in organic materials, causing
subsidence when drained.
   If your home is on reclaimed land, you may have problems with soil
subsidence.
   To maintain the aesthetic value of your homesite, filling is
necessary to avoid sunken lawns and exposed foundation footings,
resulting from subsidence.
   Good organic soils...or black garden soils...are not recommended for
use as fill material.  These soils generally are highly organic and will
oxidize and subside.  It is suggested that you use a good mineral soil
such as Bonnet Carre Spillway sand.  This soil contains most of the
necessary nutrients for plant growth and spreads easily.
   Filling periodically as needed is generally preferable to adding thick
layers after several inches or more of subsidence has occurred.
Regular addition of one or two inches of good mineral soil generally
will not permanently harm most of your lawn grasses and landscaping
plants.
   For more information on soil subsidence, contact the county agent
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Problems with Bald Cypress Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1401
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1401,
"Problems with Bald Cypress Trees."
   The bald cypress...Louisiana's state tree...is a good tree for your
landscape because it's hardy and not likely to break or topple in
storms.
   Homeowners only have two complaints about bald cypresses--one is
that cypress knees grow up through their lawns, and the other is galls
that form on the tree's leaves.
   If cypress knees grow up through your lawn, simply remove them.
The belief that cypress knees are "breathing points" for the tree has
been disproved.  It doesn't damage the tree to cut off the knees.  In
fact, foresters aren't sure what the knees do for the tree.
   If you're planting cypresses in your lawn, remember that knees are
more likely to form on trees planted on wet sites.

   Galls, or abnormal growths, on the leaves of the cypress are caused
by an insect in the wasp family.  It stings the leaves to cause the
galls to form and protect its eggs.  The galls don't hurt the tree at
all.
   You'll probably find the tree's other characteristics are desirable.
It's a fast-growing tree...particularly for the first ten years.  Mature
cypresses can be 100 to 125 feet tall.  When trees are young, they'll
have a pyramid shape.  But, as they get older, their branches will
start to droop near the tips and the trunks swell at the base.
   The cypress' light-green color and fern-like leaves will add to your
landscape.  In the fall, cypresses turn a pretty copper color.
 
For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees    youreko      
around your home or for a free pamphlet called "Trees For Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Problems with Dogwoods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1402
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1402, "Problems with Dogwoods."
   Although dogwoods are pretty trees, you shouldn't try to use them
in lawns in the New Orleans area.
   The trees get leafspot disease, they're favorites of bark boring
insects, and they're subject to flower, branch and twig die-back.  In
addition, because the tree has shallow roots, it blows over easily and
can't withstand dry periods.
   If you still want to use dogwoods, plant the tree on a mound and
add sand to the soil.  You often can control the pests with sprays.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees
around your house or for a free pamphlet called "Trees For Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                       
-End-
-Title-
Problems with Magnolias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
 Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1404
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1404,
"Problems with Magnolias."
   Despite the popularity of southern magnolias and the fact its bloom
is the state flower, the tree is only moderately rated as a shade tree
in New Orleans because of problems the tree has.
   Southern magnolias have heavy leaf drop, some serious insect
problems and are sensitive to injuries.
   Before planting a southern magnolia, be sure heavy leaf drop
doesn't bother you.  Leaves will fall off throughout the year, but
especially in the spring and fall.  Spring is the season for leaves on
evergreens..such as the magnolia...to turn yellow and drop off.
   Leafspot also causes leaves to fall off.  Spots are usually caused by
either algae or fungus, and you can treat it by spraying with a
fungicide at the proper time.
   Magnolias have two serious insect problems...scale insects and leaf
miners.  Scale insects look like miniature seashells and feed on young
twigs. If uncontrolled, they can weaken the tree.  Leaf miners feed on
the inside of the leaf tissue.  As the name implies, they mine out the
inside of the leaves.  There is no control at present for leaf miners.
   The trees are also vulnerable to diseases that enter through
mechanical injuries.  So, be careful not to skin the trunk with the
lawn mower.
 
Magnolias are also sensitive to placing soil on its roots.  If you   .byko      
cover the roots of a magnolia with much soil, the tree will die.  The
trees are also subject to root rot, so you should plant the tree on
natural ridges or gently sloping ridges.
   They prefer rich, slightly acidic soils.
   Southern magnolias are beautiful trees, but do have some problems.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees
around your house for for a free pamphlet called "Trees For Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Problems with Mimosas. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1406
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1406,
"Problems with Mimosas."
   The mimosa...or silk tree...has been an important part of our
Southern landscape.  But, unfortunately a fungus disease for which
there is no control has been wiping out many of the trees.  So, you
may want to reconsider planting the mimosa.
   The leaves of an infected tree will wilt and yellow, then die and
drop.  You'll find brownish or black discolorations just under the bark
of infected trees.
   Although there is no control for the disease, resistant varieties are
being tested.  You may wish to wait to plant mimosas until a resistant
variety is released.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees
around your house or for a free pamphlet called "Trees For Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Live Oaks, Fertilization. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/17/82 (Pope) Area:  State

Tele-Tip 1408
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1408,
"Live Oaks, Fertilization."
   You may believe that the next generation will be the only people
who benefit from a live oak tree planted now...but, that's not really
true.  With proper care, a live oak will grow faster and will provide
more benefits than you may think in only five years.
   Fertilizer and water are the keys to whether a live oak grows as
rapidly as it can.  At least one major feeding in late winter or early
spring is essential for this rapid growth.  Apply a complete fertilizer
at the rate of one and a half pounds for each year of the tree's age.
A complete fertilizer is one such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10.
   You should put the fertilizer in small holes under the canopy of
the tree.
   The second feeding should come in mid-summer and this will help
young trees because under good conditions, a second spurt of growth
is likely at this time.  Nitrogen is especially important for this second
growth stage.
   Large, well-established trees should have only one application of
fertilizer a year.  In fact, trees which have become as large as they
need to be probably shouldn't be fertilized more than once every other
year.  When the tree gets large, you should be more concerned with
keeping it healthy than helping it grow larger.
   Water is another key element in encouraging live oaks to grow
rapidly. The first two growing seasons are the most critical for the
live oak.  Don't allow a tree to show stress before you start watering
it.  Maintain moist soil at all times.           If you would like to
have more information about fertilizing live oak trees, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Live Oak Trees, Pruning. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1409
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1409,
"Live Oak Trees, Pruning."
   Because of its strength and long life, the live oak is one of
Louisiana's most widely used evergreen trees.  But, you should know
that it's life and quality are greatly influenced by pruning.
   The natural form of a typical live oak is low, broad-spreading
and mounding.  For many situations, the tree takes this form only
because it was pruned when it was young.
   When the tree's environment requires that it be pruned, it should
begin when the tree is young and continue throughout the tree's
life.  If you want a taller, more arching tree, choose a young tree
with the highest branches possible.  Otherwise, remove the lower
branches.  Also, you will want to remove limbs that have narrow
angles because they will normally develop into weak crotches later.
   As a live oak matures, it's important that you follow through
with good pruning.  The canopy must be thinned every three to five
years to keep it open so wind can move more freely through the
branches.  Resistance to winds is the reason many live oak limbs
break.
   Pruning lower branches near the trunk is important...but perhaps
the greatest pruning need is to thin the large, heavy tufts of
growth that form on the ends of the branches.  If these are left
unpruned, the limbs often break during storms because of the great
weight that causes them to sway back and forth.
   Of course, opening the canopy of the live oak tree also allows
for the grass and other plants under the tree to grow better. 
A large live oak tree can be the source of a lot of pleasure and                
can be worth a great deal of money.  Be sure you know what you're
doing when you start pruning yours.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Problems with Pines. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1410
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1410,
"Problems with Pines."
   Pines are one of the favorite trees to plant around homes in our
area.  But, if you're planning to plant pines in your yard, you should
know some of the problems you might have.
   Pines planted around homes can develop several problems.
   One of the most common...and the most serious...is fusiform rust.
This disease causes weak places in the trunk, making the tree more
likely to break in windstorms.  Fusiform swellings look like
indentations on the trunk.  Sometimes a boring insect gets in this
indentation.  As it bores, pine pitch...a sticky, white material...oozes
out around the swelling.  Usually it's best to remove trees with
fusiform rust.
   Most people get upset when their pine's needles turn yellow or
orange and begin dropping off.  In the fall, the dropping of interior
needles is natural.  Don't be alarmed about natural needle drop during
the fall..but if yellowing occurs, have the tree checked by an expert.
   Pines also have several insect problems.  The most serious is the
bark beetle.  The beetle that attacks most pines in landscapes is the
IPS beetle.  It usually invades weakened trees or those stressed by
drought.  You'll notice small holes in the trunk, a fine sawdust, and
pine pitch may ooze out and harden into what looks like popcorn.
Finally your tree will turn orange and brown.  By the time the tree
has turned completely, the insects may have already attacked another
tree.  So, you should remove a dead tree with beetle symptoms before
the insects spread.  Also, spray neighboring pines with a
recommended insecticide as soon as possible.
 
Southern pines are used in pulpwood and lumber in Louisiana and   red.es        
play an important role in the state's economy.  But, pines used in the
landscape in wet areas may not be a wise choice.
   For more information and suggestions about trees for your
landscape, call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Birch Problems. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1411
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1411, "Birch Problems."
   Birch trees are beautiful and graceful.  Used mainly on lawns, they
are susceptible to several fungus parasites and insect pests.  Of these,
the bronze birch borer is the main killer of birch trees used in
ornamental plantings.
   The bronze birch borer beetles feed on foliage and deposit their
eggs in slits in the bark.  They make flat, irregular, winding galleries
just beneath the bark of the main trunk.  Heavy infestations can kill
trees.  To control the bronze birch borer, spray the trunk and
branches thoroughly and the leaves lightly with methoxychlor or
Lindane as directed by the manufacturer.  Spray in early June and
twice more at two-week intervals.  Keep trees healthy by feeding and
watering them as needed.
   Other pests of birch trees are...leaf blister, leaf rust, leaf spot, die
back, wood decay, case bearer, birch leaf miner, birch skeletonizer and
other fungi and insects.
   Leaf blister is caused by fungi.  Two types of fungi produce red
blisters and curling of leaves on birch trees.  Another fungus forms
yellow blisters.  To control leaf blister, gather and burn all fallen
leaves.  Spray trees with ferbam or Maneb just before buds open in
the spring.  Ferbam is spelled f-e-r-b-a-m.  Maneb is spelled M-a-n-e-
b.
   Leaf rust causes spotting and defoliation.  The rust pustules are
bright reddish-yellow.  The spores from these pustules carry the
infection from leaf to leaf.  In ornamental planting, the disease rarely
becomes destructive enough to warrant special control measures.
 
Leaf spot is the name of several fungi which attack birch trees.   arelydie     
They may cause premature defoliation.  Control can usually be
obtained by gathering and burning fallen leaves.  To prevent leaf spot,
spray the tree with a bordeaux mixture or any other copper spray in
the late spring.
   Die-back fungus attacks trees weakened by drought.  It causes a
progressive die-back of upper branches.  Infestations of the bronze
birch borer may cause similar symptoms, too.  Prune the affected
branches to sound wood.  Fertilize and water the trees heavily to help
revitalize them.
   A number of wood decay fungi attack birches.  Once they become
extensive, they can't be controlled.  Avoid wounding the trees and
maintain good vigor by fertilization.  These are the best preventative
practices.
   Birches are also subject to several other fungus diseases such as
powdery mildew and leaf spot.  Several fungicides are available to help
control these fungus diseases.
   Two aphids affect birch trees:  the European birch aphid and the
common birch aphid.  The European birch aphid is yellow.  It infests
cut leaved and other birch varieties.  The common birch aphid is large
and green.  It produces honeydew followed by sooty mold.  Spray trees
thoroughly with Orthene, Diazinon, dimethoate or malathion as soon as
these aphids appear.
   The case bearer, a light yellow to green caterpillar with a black
head, also attacks birch trees.  The pest overwinters...or lives through
the winter...as a larva in a case attached to the bark.  Spray in late
July or early August with a standard malathion solution or spray in
late spring, before growth begins, with one part of concentrated lime
sulfur in eight parts of water.
 
The birch leaf miner, a small white worm, causes leaves to turn   imeeghdie     
brown in late spring or early summer.  The adult is a small black
sawfly which lives through the winter in the soil.  The first brood
causes the most damage because it attacks tender spring foliage.
Broods hatching during the summer cause less damage because they
feed only on leave on sucker growths and on newly developing leaves
in the crowns of trees.
   To control the leaf miner, spray with Diazinon, cygon, malathion or
Orthene.  For best control, make two additional applications at 10-day
intervals after the first spraying in early spring.
   Birch skeletonizer is another insect pest of birch trees.  As a result of
its feeding, the lower leaf surface is chewed and the leaf is skeletonized and
may turn brown.  To control the birch skeletonizer, spray the upper and lower
sides of the leaves with Orthene about mid-July.
   For more information and suggestions about birch trees, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Sycamore Problems. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/10/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1412
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1412,
"Sycamore Problems."
   The most serious disease of sycamore trees is leaf blight...also
known as anthracnose and scorch.  The destructiveness of this
disease...which can be severe in some parts of the state every
year...is often under-estimated.  Although a single attack is seldom
harmful, repeated attacks can weaken trees and make them
susceptible to winter injury and damage by borers.
   The first symptom of leaf blight is the sudden browning and death
of single leaves or clusters of leaves as they're expanding in the
spring.  This is often confused with frost injury.  Later...brown, dead
areas appear along and between the veins of other leaves.  Trees may
be defoliated and remain bare until late summer when new leaves are
formed.  Leaf blight may attack and kill small twigs, too.  Cankers
appear on the leaf spurs and on twigs...and they look like sunken
areas with slightly raised margins.  Trees moderately infected with leaf
blight will have scattered clusters of dead leaves which contrast
sharply with unaffected foliage.
   A fungus with several distinctly different types of spores causes
blight.  The fungus may live through the winter in the vegetative
stage in fallen infected leaves and in twig cankers.  In the South, it
spends the winter in the spore stage on dormant buds.  The first
infections of the young leaves in spring may originate from spores
that lived through the winter on leaves on the ground...or from spores
developed on infected twigs...and from spores on the dormant buds.
 
The prevalence and severity of attacks are determined by weather   resafvewerd  
conditions.  Frequent rains and cool temperatures favor rapid spread.
The severity of the shoot blight stage depend largely on the average
temperature during the two weeks after leaves first emerge.
   To help control diseases of sycamores, gather and burn all the
fallen leaves in the autumn.  This destroys the organism that lives
through the winter and produces spores for the next spring's
infections.  Whenever it's feasible, prune infected spurs and dead twigs
and burn them.  Some control can be provided by spraying zineb or
copper fungicides.  Apply the first spray just before the leaves
unfurl...the second when leaves are half-grown and the third when the
leave are fully grown.  If trees suffer from repeated attacks, fertilize
them heavily in the fall or the next spring to increase their vigor.
   Insects can be a problem on sycamores, too.  They include the
giant bark aphid, the sycamore plant bug, sycamore tussock moth and
scales.
   The giant bark aphid often attacks the twigs of sycamore trees and
may gather in clusters on the undersides of the limbs.  They exude
great quantities of honeydew, a sweet fluid which often turns blackish.
To control aphids, spray them malathion.
   Sycamore plant bugs suck out the plant juices on the upper sides
of sycamore leaves...leaving a poisonous material which results in
yellow or red spots.  As the leaves grow, the injured areas drop out,
leaving holes.  To control the sycamore plant bug, spray trees with
malathion in early April and again two weeks later.
   The sycamore tussock moth is a problem on sycamores in the
northeastern United States.  The caterpillar stage of the moth is
yellow and has yellow to white hairs on its body.  Spraying with the
insecticide Sevin will help control this moth.
 
Several species of scale insects occasionally infest sycamores.  To   .evewerd  
control them, spray your trees with malathion or Orthene in late
spring when the young scales are crawling.  A dormant oil spray
should be applied in early spring if infestations are unusually heavy.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of your
trees, call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Evergreen Trees Shed, Too. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1415
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1415,
"Evergreen Trees Shed, Too."
   The yellowing of magnolia leaves and the unexpected shedding of
live oak leaves and other evergreens during February and March may
cause you some unnecessary concern. You may think your trees are
dying, but that probably is not what is happening.
   While many native trees drop all their leaves in the fall or
winter...some evergreens, such as the magnolia, shed their leaves all
year-round.  Trees like the live oak will drop their leaves at different
rates in different years depending on the severity of the winter.  The
thing to remember is that all evergreens lose some of their leaves
each year.  Sometimes, they lose all or at least half of their leaves
every year.
   Leaf-drop is part of the natural life process of trees...including
evergreens.  Misunderstanding the term "evergreen" is at the root of
the concern.  Enjoy raking the leaves from your evergreen trees.
   If you would like to have more information about evergreen trees,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                e.omist in your parish office of thegentvewerd  
-End-
-Title-
Fertilizing Trees, Shrubs and Lawns. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/17/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1416
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1416,
"Fertilizing Trees, Shrubs and Lawns."
   If you fertilize your lawn and garden plants during March...they
will respond better then, then at any other time of the year.
   For shrubs you should use about a quarter of a pound of a
complete fertilizer per square yard of area covered by the plant.  A
quarter pound of fertilizer is equal to about a half cup and a
complete fertilizer is one such as 8-8-8.
   Distribute the fertilizer around the plant, but don't let the
fertilizer touch the stems of the plants and don't apply it in bands
around the plant.
   Trees need plant food, too.  Apply one pound of a complete
fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or equivalent for every year of the tree's
life.  The fertilizer should be put in holes that are about eight to
twelve inches deep.  The holes should begin about four feet from the
trunk of the tree and they should extend beyond the spread of the
branches.  The holes should be in a series of rings around the tree.
The rings should be about four feet apart...and the holes should be
about five feet apart.
   Now, looking at lawns.  If you want lush dark green lawn grass,
you're going to have to fertilize it.  You will need to apply about
20 pounds of a complete fertilizer for every thousand square feet of
lawn.  Don't apply the fertilizer when the grass is wet.  However,
after you've distributed the fertilizer, water the lawn to wash the
fertilizer into the soil and to keep it from burning the leaves of
the grass. 
If you would like to have more information about fertilizing                 d  
trees, shrubs and lawns or if you would like to have a free pamphlet
called "Shrubs for Louisiana Landscapes" or "Trees for Louisiana
Landscapes" or "Grasses for Louisiana Lawns," call the county agent
or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Grayish Green Growth on Tree Trunks. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1418
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1418, "Grayish Green Growth on Tree Trunks."
   The cloudy, wet weather of south Louisiana is ideal for algae and
lichens.  These organisms grow profusely on trunks, limbs and twigs of
many trees and shrubs.
   Algae are the simplest form of green plants.  They were probably
the first food-producing organisms and are present nearly everywhere.
They grow in any place that has enough moisture -- on tree trunks,
twigs, shrubs, soil, rocks and walls.
   Lichens have two parts:  a fungus and an algae living in
association with one another to give the appearance of one plant.
Lichens grow on soil, trunks, branches and rocks.  Like algae, lichens
manufacture their own food.  They occur in several forms.  Some are
leaflike; others look like a tuft of horse hair hanging from branches.
They may be crusty growths of white, green, yellow or gray.
   Because all of these primitive plant forms make their own food,
they don't directly injure the plant on which they grow.  Heavy
growth, however, may have a suffocating effect and can reduce the
sunlight reaching the leaves.  Some people like these hitchhiking
plants because they add color to shrubbery and trees in winter.  But
when the growth becomes unattractive, it should be controlled.
   The presence of lichens, algae and mosses on plants may mean the
plant is in poor condition and not growing vigorously.  To control
lichens, algae and mosses, spray trunks with a copper fungicide such
as bordeaux mixture or a fixed copper.
 
For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees in   .       d  
your yard, call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Identifying Tree Insect Problems. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1419
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1419, "Identifying Tree Insect Problems."
   Insect problems in trees take the form of holes, defoliation, drying
twigs, foliage discoloration or growth malformations.
   Insect holes in trees usually exude some kind of fluid.  In most
cases, borer infestations in trees are due to stress or previous damage
to the tree.  Usually, most people blame ants for damaging a tree, but
it's more likely that they were attracted to the tree after damage was
done...perhaps to feed on insects already infesting the tree.
   Defoliation may be caused by caterpillars or scale insects...although
stress can cause it in some cases.  Caterpillars...such as the buck moth
in early spring...are easy to find.  Scales are a little more secretive in
that you're not likely to notice their damage until large populations
have developed.  In addition to foliage discoloration or spotting, scales
may cause tip die-back.
   Several gall forming insects may cause malformations on trees.
Stems may become swollen and mis-shapen...buds may be retarded or
killed...and leaves may have fluffy, fuzzy or unusual growths on them.
The galls may be caused by small wasps, flies or mites.  Many of
these formations...when they first start...appear decorative.  However,
persistent, continuous infestations can cause terminal die-back.
   Many of these insect-like problems must be carefully checked
because some diseases may cause the same symptoms...particularly
where galls and scale damage are involved.
   For more information about controlling insects, call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Leaf Burn in Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/17/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1420
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1420,
"Leaf Burn in Trees."
   Tree leaves can turn reddish or brown for many reasons.  Leaf spot
diseases and the leaf blister disease are among the causes of this
browning on hardwood tree leaves.  These diseases usually start as
spots and progress through the leaf.  They don't always do serious
harm, and you can control them with chemical sprays.  The chemicals
recommended for preventing these diseases are fixed coppers or a
fungicide known as Benlate.
   You can lessen the effects of leaf burn by fertilizing your trees
and keeping them pruned properly.  Remember, though, that over-
fertilization, dry weather and chemical damage can cause leaves to
turn brown.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of your
trees or for a free pamphlet called "Maple Diseases and Their
Control," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mistletoe in Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1421
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1421,
"Mistletoe in Trees."
   Mistletoe may be nice to have for decorating around Christmas, but
it's not very good for the tree it's growing on.
   Mistletoe is a parasite...that is it lives off trees by stealing some
of the water and nutrients that would normally nourish the tree.
Oaks, hackberries, elms and pecan trees seem to be favorites of
mistletoe.
   Controlling mistletoe is hard, because it attaches itself to the
tree's vascular system, the part which carries water and nutrients to
all parts of the tree.  If you simply break off the mistletoe, it'll just
grow back.  To remove mistletoe for good you have to remove the
chip of the tree's vascular system that it's attached to.
   Paint the cut with tree wound paint.  This will keep wood rotting
organisms from getting into the cut.
   If mistletoe is on small limbs, cut the limb about a foot ahead of
the spot where the mistletoe is growing.  Again, you should paint the
cut.
   Mistletoe is spread primarily by birds, which carry the seeds on
their beaks after eating the white berries of the mistletoe.  When
birds wipe their beaks on a tree, the seed finds a home.
   Cutting out the mistletoe is the only way to control it.  Chemicals
that kill mistletoe also hurt the tree.
   For more information about caring for the trees around your home,
call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                rish office of the LSU Cooperativee,lsustn   d  
-End-
-Title-
Planting Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1423
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1423,
"Planting Trees."
   Shade trees add much to the landscape of your home, and their
shade can cut your heating and cooling bills.  If you don't have trees
shading your home, you may wish to plant some.  The task isn't hard,
and the tree should survive if you follow seven basic steps.
   First, dig the hole before moving the tree.  It's important for you
to put the tree in the ground as quickly as possible, so wait to move
the tree until the hole for it is ready.
   If the tree is bare-rooted, dig the hole large enough to spread the
roots out naturally.  If you're planting a balled or burlapped tree,
make the hole large enough to add at least six inches of prepared soil
on all sides of the ball.
   Next, keep the roots moist while the tree is out of the ground.
Balled or container trees should be watered frequently to prevent
drying of the roots.  If you're not going to plant the tree for an
extended period, "heel in" the tree.  This means covering the roots
with loose soil or organic matter, such as wood shavings, pine bark or
compost.
   The third step is to place the tree in the hole at the same depth,
or just slightly deeper, than it grew before transplanting.  Remember
to spread the roots of bare-rooted trees to prevent crowding.  You
should place them in the same position they were growing before
transplanting.
 
Now you're ready to replace the soil around the roots.  A good   uberrustn   d  
planting mixture is essential if the tree is to establish new roots.  You
can mix topsoil, organic matter and sand to make your own planting
soil.  Firm the soil several times while filling to make sure that no air
pockets form.  You can build a mound or small levee around the tree
to help hold water and add a mulch of leaves
or straw around the tree to conserve moisture.
   Trees should be watered after planting.  For bare-rooted trees, you
should water while placing the soil around the tree.  Watering while
planting eliminates air pockets.
   The sixth step is to wrap the trunk.  Wrapping the trunk slows
evaporation of moisture from the bark, protects the bark from the hot
rays of the sun...which can cause sunscald...and prevents wood borers
from attacking the tree.
   Finally, you should stake the tree.  For larger trees, use two-by-
two-inch wooden or metal pipe stakes to hold the tree in place while
it grows.
   There are two ways you can stake the tree.  One way is to use
two stakes placed close to the trunk of the tree.  A wire is tied to
each stake and around the tree to hold it upright.  The wire around
the tree is threaded through a short section of garden hose so the
wire won't rub on the young tree.
   For trees in the open away from where people walk and grass is
mowed, place three stakes in a triangle about five to six feet from the
tree.  Support wires from the tree to the stakes give a lot of
anchorage.  Wrapping the support wires with a colorful material can
help prevent accidents caused by not being able to see the thin wires.
 
Leave the stakes in place for at least one growing season.   in wires.eirn   d  
   For more information and suggestions about caring the trees around
your home or for a free pamphlet called "Trees for Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Protecting Trees During Construction. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1424
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1424,
"Protecting Trees During Construction."
   Saving trees around a house or building that you're constructing is
a big plus for beauty and the pocketbook.
   You probably enjoy the shade and beauty trees offer, but may not
know saving trees saves money.  Shade trees cut cooling and heating
costs, and can add from five to ten percent to the real estate value
of a home.
   Unfortunately, many who try to save trees around a new home or
building are disappointed later when the trees die.  But, with careful
construction your trees can survive.
   The number one killer of trees during construction is damage.
Those clearing your lot sometimes damage the roots or trunks of trees.
Or, they may smother the roots by packing the soil with heavy
equipment or with fill dirt over the roots.  To make way for concrete
slabs and driveways, construction crews sometimes cut roots, and
installing underground utilities or grading the lot can cut roots.
   Most of the vital feeder roots of trees are in the top foot of soil
and extend even beyond the drip line of tree branches.
   If you're building, here's what to do to save the health...and maybe
the life...of your trees.
   First, you must be firm with the builders.  Even then, supervise
them closely.
   Insist on proper care during lot clearing.  Build barricades around
trees to prevent damage.  Crews may need to clear most of the lot by
hand and use heavy equipment only on the house site itself.
 
Clear lots during dry weather.  Heavy equipment damages roots   t byndeirn   d  
more during wet weather.
   Have equipment enter and leave the site from one location,
preferably the driveway site.
   Try to have underground utilities laid away from tree roots.  But,
if they have to pass close to a tree, insist that corridors be tunneled
under major roots instead of trenched.  You should ask to have all
utilities laid in one corridor, if possible.
   If you have to change the drainage pattern or grade of the lot, use
retaining walls to protect your trees.
   For driveways, walks or patios that extend over root zones, use a
pervious material such as turfstone, gravel or shell.
   To save trees, you have to begin planning even before the lot is
cleared.  If you buy a "spec" house from a builder, you may be
disappointed a year or two later to find he was not careful, and your
trees are dying.  Then, you are faced with the expense of removing
dead trees.  If you paid a higher price for the lot because of the
trees, you've also lost your investment.
   If you're thinking about buying a house already under construction,
look for symptoms of construction damage.  Look for injuries to tree
trunks, exposed or cut roots, a slab too close to trees or a patio
surrounding them.  Other clues are thinning and yellowing of leaves,
or die-back at the top or on branch ends.
   Sometimes trees can be doctored back to health after construction.
Fertilization, watering and aeration of compacted soils are all good
medicine for trees suffering from construction stress.  Other aids are
wound repair, dead limb removal and pruning to compensate for root
loss.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees
around your home or for a free pamphlet called "Trees for Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pruning Mature Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Main)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1425
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1425,
"Pruning Mature Trees."
   The first rule in pruning trees should be...do no cutting without a
reason.  But, there may be several reasons for needing or wanting to
prune a tree.  Reasons such as...convenience, safety, sanitation, or
appearance.
   Remember, removing live limbs is a dwarfing process, and because
of this a heavily pruned tree will never be as large as an unpruned
tree.
   Pruning can be done anytime of the year...but generally, the best
time is during late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
The worst time to prune is right after new growth begins.
   The most common mistake made by most people doing their own
tree pruning is using improper pruning techniques.  Whether you're
cutting large or small branches, all final cuts should be made smooth
and flush with the tree.
   The bark of a branch is usually marked by a swelling, or "collar,"
where it joins the trunk or large limb.  The final cut should be made
where the swelling or the collar begins.  Be careful not to leave a
stub on the tree because this is an excellent place for decay and fungi
to get started in the tree.  You may want to apply a tree wound
dressing on the cut.
   If you're not careful, you can seriously damage your tree when
you're pruning large branches.  You can accidentally create large
wounds on the tree if you allow a large branch...which is being
removed...to strip bark as it falls from the tree.  This damage can be
prevented by making multiple cuts or by using the so-called stub-
cutting method.  Make the first cut from below at two inches from
the trunk...half way through the limb...then cut off the limb from
above.  Then, remove the stub with a cut where the swelling or collar
begins at the trunk of the tree. 
Many large, old trees are sun-scaled if they're heavily top-pruned              
or if they were part of a forest and most of their companion trees
were cut.  Their bark is killed when it suddenly is exposed to full
sunlight after growing in the shade...and this can happen to your trees
if they aren't pruned properly.
   To prevent sun-scald, prune only part of the tree top in any one
year.  If you need to thin a grove of trees, do it by cutting the
unwanted trees over a period of years rather than all at one time.
   One other pruning practice...pollarding...is sometimes used on old
trees.  Pollarding is the cutting off of the top of the tree, leaving
only the major limbs.  These limbs then are expected to produce a
new crown.
   Pollarding can be recommended only for unusual situations.  It
works well on only a few trees...such as silver maple, poplars and
willows.  However, even these trees have an unpleasing appearance
until they can grow new crowns.  Protect all pollarding wounds with a
wound paint, preferably asphalt containing an antiseptic.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of the
trees in your landscape, call the county agent in your parish office of
the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                rvice.ty agent in your parish office of         
-End-
-Title-
Repairing Tree Injuries. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1426
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1426,
"Repairing Tree Injuries."
   If a tree in your landscape is injured, your prompt action can save
it from becoming unsightly or dangerous, and may save the tree's life.
   Injuries that expose wood or kill the bark can let disease and
decay organisms enter the tree.  You should treat these wounds to
protect the tree until they heal.
   To treat it, cut away all damaged bark and removed scraps of bark
in the wound.  These scraps will usually die anyway, and don't help
the healing.
   For faster healing, shape the edge of the wound into an elongated
ellipse...as much as is possible.  If you can't make it into an elongated
ellipse, make a point at the top and bottom...even if you have to
enlarge the wound.
   Remove all splintered wood and smooth the surface of exposed
wood.  Disinfect the wound with alcohol or shellac and apply the tree
wound paint.  Large, slowly healing wounds may need additional paint
after two or three years.
   You should inspect large wounds occasionally to be sure the paint
is not cracking.  Breaks in the paint should be repainted.  If decay
has developed in the wound, it should be cut away and the wound re-
treated.
   If one of your trees is struck by lightning, you won't be able to
tell for about a year how badly it was injured.  Trees that seem to be
badly damaged may live, while others appearing to be only mildly
damaged may die.  Go ahead and remove all shattered parts and
dangerous limbs.  On pines, you might help the tree resist pine beetles
by spraying it.
   Split trunks, crotches, limbs or branches can sometimes be mended
by  putting the damaged part back it position and holding it there
permanently.
 
To repair split trunks and crotches, smooth the damaged parts,   eedlesed       
then disinfect the wound with denatured alcohol or shellac.  Using
bolts inserted in holes drilled straight through the separated parts,
bring them together.
   Cover the crack with antiseptic paint.  Split crotches usually
require cables to support the weight of the branches.  For serious
damage, you should contact a tree surgeon.
   Sometime, you can save uprooted trees by promptly restoring them
to their position.  Be sure not to let the roots dry out.  You should
hold the tree in place with guy wires, and fertilize and water it.
Watch it closely for insect infestations.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees
around your house or for a free pamphlet called "Trees For Louisiana
Landscapes," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Shade Trees for New Orleans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1427
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1427, "Shade Trees for New Orleans."
   Shade trees that are easy to grow in the New Orleans area include
the live oak, crape myrtle, bald cypress, evergreen elm, the golden
rain tree, the drummond red maple, the windmill palm, the jelly palm,
the Mediterranean fan palm and the spruce pine.
   In the New Orleans area, however, large trees may cause soil
subsidence...or sinking...because these trees absorb large amounts of
water.  This means the soil will sink around the roots of large trees
such as the live oak, bald cypress, water oak, willow oak, green ash,
weeping willow, pecan, sycamore and American elm.
   Areas in metropolitan New Orleans that are subject to soil
subsidence include:  some areas of Kenner and Metairie near Lake
Pontchartrain, portions of New Orleans East, Airline Park, some areas
of Lakeview and other areas of the city.  The Soil Conservation
Service can tell you more about which soils in these area are subject
to soil subsidence...or sinking.
   Insects and diseases are problems...even on those trees which are
recommended for planting in the New Orleans area.  Let's look at
some of the potential problems.
   The live oak is recommended because of its traditional use and its
long history in New Orleans.  But, remember that you should plant
live oaks where the canopy and root system can spread without
causing problems.  The root system can damage sidewalks, streets and
house foundations.  Also, low branching can damage cars if the trees
are planted too close to the street.  The live oak is also subject to
attack by wood rots, heart rots, oak gall insects and oak leaf blister
disease.
   The crape myrtle is another desirable tree.  Its problems include
aphids, sooty mold, powdery mildew and leafspot diseases.
Suckering...or sprouting...at the base of the tree may be a problem.
It's also messy when flowers begin to fall.  Its desirable
characteristics do outweigh the bad, however.
   The bald cypress is adaptable to the heavy soils in the New
Orleans area.  It grows rapidly for the first 10 years.  Some problems
observed with bald cypress trees are...knees may protrude throughout
the soil and you will have to cut them off.  Small insect galls may
form on the leaves...but they don't appear to damage the tree,
however.
   Few, if any, problems are associated with the evergreen elm.  It's a
beautiful tree and grows fast.
   The golden rain tree, another desirable tree, may have scale
insects, bark borers and may suffer freeze damage.  Its brittle wood is
subject to wind damage.  Growth may be stunted in poorly drained
areas.  This beautiful, fast-growing tree flowers and produces red
lantern-like fruit in the fall.  It's considered short-lived compared to
live oaks and water oaks.
   Drummond red maple is another fast-growing tree.  Color intensity
varies from tree to tree, and female trees often are not showy.  The
drummond red maple may be troubled by twig borer insects.  The tree
may become diseased through mechanical injuries such as lawn mower
damage to the trunk.  The drummond red maple may be hard to find
in local nurseries.
   The windmill palm is a good tree for the patio or poolside.  It has
few problems other than leafspot disease.  The jelly palm grows slowly
and isn't a tall tree.  It's main problem is trunk rot.  The
Mediterranean fan palm is another palm that grows slowly.  It's thorny
and could be hazardous to children.
   The spruce pine is another recommended tree for New Orleans.  It
grows slowly and may not be readily available in local nurseries.  It's
resistant to fusiform rust disease, but scale insects and sooty mold
may affect it.
   Other trees that can be planted in New Orleans are...camphor tree,
American holly, paper mulberry, water oak, willow oak, Canary Island
date palm, cabbage palm, palmetto palm, sago palm, Bradford flowering
pear, Chinese tallow and the wax myrtle.
   For more information and suggestions about selecting and caring
for the trees in your landscape or for a free pamphlet called "Trees
for Louisiana Landscapes," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Small Flowering Trees for New Orleans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1428
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1428, "Small Flowering Trees for New Orleans."
   Several small flowering trees are recommended for landscape use in
the New Orleans area.  They include the dogwood, tung oil tree,
mayhaw, sweetbay magnolia, fringe tree, silverbell, crape myrtle,
crabapple, redbud, Drummond red maple, sourwood and Parkinsonia.
   Also flowering plum, red bay, tree huckleberry, flowering peach,
Bradford flowering pear, Taiwan cherry, hawthorn, yaupon, persimmon
and golden raintree.
   These trees are well suited for the New Orleans area and should be
attractive additions to your landscape.
   If you need more information about trees or if you would like to
have a pamphlet called "Trees for Louisiana Landscapes," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Transplanting Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/20/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1430
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1430,
"Transplanting Trees."
   Many native or wild plants can be used in the home landscape.
Native trees tend to be hardy to local weather conditions and local
soils.  They may be more tolerant of local garden insects and diseases,
too.  Most are easy to grow, but the task of transplanting the desired
native tree from the woods to your lawn can be a hard one.
   The wet, cold days of winter are ideal times for transplanting
native plants.  But, if you can't provide similar growing conditions to
those in which the native plant is growing, leave the plant to nature.
   Before digging, decide which native plants will fit your landscape
needs.  For instance, don't select a dogwood for a sunny location
when the tree needs shade or overhead protection.
   Also, don't try to transplant a large specimen.  Small plants are
usually more vigorous, grow much faster, and are easier to handle.
You might want to tag the plant in the woods while it has leaves or
berries.  This way you can be sure of a positive identification.
   In the case of a large tree, prune the root system of the selected
native tree before digging.  Prune the plant's lateral roots one
growing season before you plan to transplant it.  Do so by making
spade cuts around the plant in winter.  Allow the soil to remain in
place, however.
   When transplanting, lift the plant with a ball of dirt, if possible.
Plant the native tree immediately at its normal growing depth.  Water
it well and mulch with leaves, straw or leaf mold. To compensate for
the loss of root area and to encourage new branching and foliage in
the spring, prune the upper branches and end shoots of limbs.  On
evergreen plants, strip away some of the foliage.
   Native plants which can be transplanted successfully include:
dogwood, redbud, river birch, sassafras, cherry laurel, red cedar,
American holly, yaupon, native hawthorns, French mulberry, native
oaks, elms, and maples.  These are desirable and abundant.
   For more information or suggestions about growing trees, call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Tree Cavities. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1432
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1432,
"Tree Cavities."
   Tree cavity repair is a difficult and specialized job.  For this
reason, the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service recommends that
you consult a competent tree surgeon in your area.  Look in the
telephone directory for a list of tree surgeons who work in the New
Orleans area.
 
 rleans area.ectory for a list of tree surgeons who work in the Newere.od       
-End-
-Title-
Hiring a Tree Service. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/15/82 (Main)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1433
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1433,
"Hiring a Tree Service."
   Before you hire a tree service company, decide what you want done
to your trees because the services performed by different companies
varies considerably.  On one extreme are those companies which only
remove trees and then on the other extreme are full-service companies
which do cabling and bracing, insect and disease spraying, fertilization,
pruning, tree removal, stump grinding, planting and cavity filling.
   You may find that you will want a full-service company because the
employees are generally better trained.  A full-service company can
perform more than one type of operation and if...at a later
date...additional service is needed or your trees have a different
problem, you can call on a company with which you are familiar.
   After you decide which service you need for your trees, decide on
which company you want and check it out.  Ask for references...the
hour or so you spend checking out a tree service is not likely to make
any difference in whether your trees lives or dies.
   Ask about the type and amount of liability insurance the company
carries.  Many tree trimmers have little or no liability insurance.  If
you hire a company which doesn't carry liability insurance, you will be
responsible for injuries or damages incurred to or by the tree
trimmers while they're working on your property.
   Get a written estimate from more than one tree service.  Ask what
the price includes because you can get varying prices depending on
whether the tree service company cleans up the mess, whether the
wood will be left or resold and in the case of spraying the trees, who
will provide the water.  Five-hundred gallons of water through your
water meter could be an expensive hidden cost.
   Carefully analyze all the information you can get when you're
selecting a tree service...and don't be pressured into something you
don't need.
   For more information about caring for the trees in your yard, call
the county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Fill Dirt in the Landscape. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1434
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1434,
"Fill Dirt in the Landscape."
   The Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service does not recommend
that you attempt to make major changes in your landscape without
professional help.  Too often, grade changes in the landscape will
produce undesirable and often unexpected circumstances.  The
Extension Service recommends that you consult a competent tree
surgeon or landscape architect for an on-site evaluation and plan to
suit your individual situation.  An Extension Service booklet entitled
"Trees for Louisiana Landscapes" has some information on this subject.
For a free copy, call your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service. 
                   ll your parish office of the LSU Cooperativeubject.en,       
-End-
-Title-
Trees for Shady Locations. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1435
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1435, "Trees for Shady Locations."
   Most trees need at least some sun...but there are some trees which
need less than others.  Trees which grow well in shady locations
include species of various shapes and sizes.  Before you plant trees in
your landscape, get some professional guidance or compare the
situation in your yard to a location where the tree you want to plant
is already growing.
   Trees which survive in shady locations inlcude...magnolia, white bay,
American holly, drummond red maple, sourwood, yaupon, silverbell,
redbud, cypress, wax myrtle, American beech and red bay.
   For more ideas and suggestions about trees for your landscapeor
for a free pamphlet called "Trees for Louisiana Landscapes," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Yellowing and Dropping of Leaves. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/4/82 (Whitam)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1436
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1436,
"Yellowing and Dropping of Leaves."
   Probably the most common problem of ornamental trees and shrubs
is a general decline associated with a dieback of twigs and yellowing
of leaves.  This often begins as a marginal dying on the edges of the
leaves or with a bleaching and yellowing of most of the plant.  The
injured plant often dies.
   Unlike leaf spots which are usually scattered at random, this
dieback of twigs and yellowing of leaves is caused by roots which are
not functioning properly in transporting water to the upper parts of
the plant.
   Possible causes for this problem are:
   1)  Drought stress--This often results in a gradual yellowing of the
entire plant, beginning with leaf margins.  Even large trees have
feeder roots located in the upper portion of the soil and, without
adequate moisture, these feeder roots dry out.
   2)  Overwatering--Too much water suffocates the root system and
helps disease-producing organisms establish themselves in the plant.
   3)  Transplant injury--Newly planted ornamental trees and shrubs
can be affected by "transplant shock" if roots are damaged before
transplanting or if they are subjected to poor soil preparation and
poor care at planting time.  Soil should be worked up and mulched for
several feet around the planting site.
   4)  Adaption problem--Different plants have different requirements
for sunlight and moisture.  Selecting a site that is suitable for the
plant can avoid many problems.  Be sure to select plants adapted to
Louisiana conditions. 
5)  Iron chlorosis--This abnormally yellow color of plant tissues               
can be observed in parts of the state where soils have a high pH.
It's also observed on plants growing near cement walks, driveways and
other kinds of construction.  Often the soil pH in these areas has
been raised by chemicals used in construction.
   6)  Fungus root rots and nematodes--These are commen pathogens
on many ornamental trees and shrubs.  The lower stem and roots of
severely infected plants are rotted and discolored.  If the bark is
peeled from the plant, you can see dark streaks or fungal strands.
Once above-ground symptoms are observed, little can be done to save
a plant attacked by root-rot organisms.  The best control for these
rots is to prevent them by maintaining good drainage, fertility and a
proper environment for the plant.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees in
your yard, call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed: 2/8/82 Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1437
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1437,
"Buying Trees."
   Generally, nurseries will have shrubs and trees for sale in three
categories...balled and burlapped...in containers...or bare rooted.
   First, the balled and burlapped type.  A ball of soil is wrapped
in burlap and pinned with nails.  When you're handling this kind of
plant...never lift it by its stem or trunk and don't remove the
burlap when you plant the tree. Rough handling can loosen the ball
of soil and endanger the life of the plant.
   Balled plants are usually larger than container grown plants of
the same price.  Also, they are usually field grown, and may be
better adjusted to conditions in your lawn.
   Second...container-grown plants...they're also popular with
nurseries.  The most common sizes of containers are one gallon, two
gallon and five gallon.
   One of the real advantages of container-grown plants is that
there is  less shock when the plant is transplanted.  The container
should be cut with special shears by the nurseryman so the plant can
be lifted out of the container easily without disturbing the soil.
   Third...bare rooted plants.  These type plants are commonly
offered by nurseries, but these plants are a little more risky than
the two mentioned previously...especially during the spring.
   If you would like to have more information about buying trees,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               ce.omist in your parish office of then           
-End-
-Title-
Golden Raintree. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/4/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1438
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1438,
"Golden Raintree."
   There are two species of golden raintree for Louisiana...and if
you pick the wrong one you could be in for some real disappointment.
   For the part of the state from Baton Rouge south...you should
choose the Southern Golden Rain.  If you plant this tree much
further north than Baton Rouge it's likely to be injured or killed
by winter freezes.  The Southern Golden Rain blooms in late August
and September with a lot of striking yellow flowers followed by
salmon-pink seed pods which last the rest of the fall.
   There is a northern species of the golden rain tree but it should
be planted north of Baton Rouge.  The northern variety blooms in
June with yellow flowers followed by green seed pods in July.  If
this tree is planted south of Baton Rouge...probably it won't get
enough cold weather to perform as it should.
   There's another big difference in the northern and the southern
species...and that is the makeup of the compound leaves.  The
northern species has rougher textured leaves and larger individual
leaflets.
   One problem you may run into with the southern variety is that it
usually doesn't bloom for the first three to five years.  The
flowers won't usually appear on the tree until it's somewhat mature
and isn't growing very actively.  You may be surprised at how
rapidly the golden raintree grows...it's not uncommon for a young to
tree grow five to ten feet per year the first two or three years.
   If you would like more information about the golden raintree or
if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Trees for
Louisiana Landscapes," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Why Trees Die in New Subdivisions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/15/82
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1439
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1439,
"Why Trees Die in New Subdivisions."
   Many homeowners who move into a new subdivision and live there
for six months or a year are distressed to find that some of the
established trees on their lot die for no apparent reason.
   But...there are reasons for these trees dying.  One of the most
common reasons is the change in the soil grade around the tree.
Three or more inches of soil added over tree root systems often cuts
off oxygen to the roots which eventually kills the roots and this
eventually kills the tree.
   Also, grading two or three inches or more under the spread of a
tree often disturbs the feeder roots and causes them die.
   If the subdivision was developed in an area where the trees were
growing in thick groves and many of the trees had to be removed to
make room for the houses, the trees which are left are exposed to
more light and wind than they can handle and may die in two or three
years.
   Generally, heavy construction equipment is used in preparing home
sites and in the actual building of the house.  Because this
equipment is so heavy, it tends to pack the soil which may kill tree
roots.
   In addition to all this...when new subdivisions are developed,
there's a change in the water table because of the addition of such
things as streets, storm sewers, and deep ditches which remove water
from the lots...water that ordinarily would have soaked into the
soil for use by the trees.
   If you would like to have more information about why trees die in
new subdivisions, call the county agent or home economist in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Fertilizing Shade Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/17/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1440
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1440,
"Fertilizing Shade Trees."
   Shade trees exist in nature without much care, but transplanting
them to man-made conditions can cause them some problems.  It's
especially helpful to fertilize shade trees during the second growing
season and thereafter.  Don't fertilize trees during the first year after
planting or the top growth may become more than the roots can feed
which could cause the tree to die.  Fertilizer may also benefit
established trees that appear less than healthy.
   Fertilizer for trees should have nitrogen, phosphorous and potash.
Examples of some fertilizers to look for are 8-8-8, 13-13-13 and 12-4-
4.  Common garden fertilizers such as 8-8-8 are satisfactory.  Be
careful of weed and feed type fertilizers since they contain herbicides
which could harm trees or these fertilizers could even kill trees if
they're used long enough.
   Fertilize established trees only as needed.  Early spring is the best
time.  If additional nutrients are needed, make a second application in
early summer.  Don't fertilize trees in late summer because it may
cause them to continue to actively grow into the winter months...and
be damaged by cold weather.
   Use one-to-two pounds of fertilizer for each inch of tree diameter.
Trees less than six inches in diameter need about two pounds of
fertilizer each year.  To determine the diameter, measure the distance
through the tree...not the distance around the tree...and measure at
chest level.
 
Surface application is one of the easiest ways to apply fertilizer.   ntr       
It can be used on established trees where the soil beneath the tree is
free of vegetation such as grass or ground cover.  Apply fertilizer
evenly under the tree branches.  Don't put fertilizer within one foot
of the trunk; it can injure the root collar.
   If the soil is compacted, or if grass is growing under trees, punch
holes six-to-eight inches deep in the soil and put the fertilizer in the
holes.  Don't put more than a handful of fertilizer in each hole.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of your
trees or if you would like a free pamphlet called "Fertilizing Shade
Trees," call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Tree Stumps. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/15/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1441
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1441,
"Removing Tree Stumps."
   You can remove stumps from your yard manually, mechanically, or
by helping the natural processes of decay.
   A stump that's eight inches or smaller in diameter can be dug or
pulled out manually with an axe, grub hoe, shovel and perspiration.
   Larger stumps can be easily removed by mechanical devices that
have rotary blades which cut and chew the stump to the level below
the ground that you want it.  You may be able to get these
mechanical stump removers from rental outlets.  Most tree service
operators have them for custom work.
   A very practical, but slower way of removing stumps is to speed up
the natural process of decay.  Drilling holes in stumps and filling them
with a high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as urea, can create a good place
for rot fungi to grow.  Also, fertilizer may be sprinkled on the top of
the stump.  The stump must be kept moist for the fertilizer to work.
Use mulch and water if you need to.
   For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees in
your yard, or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Stump
Removal from Home Grounds," call the county agent in your parish
office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Estimating the Value of Trees and Shrubs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/15/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1442
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1442,
"Estimating the Value of Trees and Shrubs."
   Storms, lightning, vandalism, automobile accidents and other
incidents can sometimes make it necessary for you to place a value on
your trees and shrubs for insurance, tax or legal purposes.
   If you're trying to recover damages to your trees and shrubs by
means of a lawsuit, you will need to get an evaluation from an expert.
Acceptable experts for court purposes are consulting arborists,
consulting foresters, representatives of tree service companies and
sometimes county agents.  All of these experts will use a nationally
accepted guide to determine the value of damaged or destroyed trees
or shrubs.
   If you're trying to recover damages by means of an insurance
claim, you will need to check first with your insurance agent to
determine if such damage is covered by your policy.  If the damages
are covered, the loss or reduction in the fair market value of your
property must be determined by a real estate appraiser.  Most
insurance policies have a maximum that they allow for tree loss.
   If you're trying to recover damages by means of a state or federal
tax deduction, you will have to use the amount of fair market value
not covered by the insurance.  Federal tax regulations allow
deductions for uncompensated losses only in excess of $100.
   Whether you can obtain insurance compensation or a tax deduction
for the casualty loss of a tree or shrub may depend on how well you
can document the before and after value of the plant.
   Old and new photographs, plus a written statement from an
appraiser, will, in most casses, be sufficient evidence to document
reasonable claims. 
For more information and suggestions about caring for the trees                 
and shrubs in your yard, call the county agent in your parish office of
the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
_30
-End-
-Title-
Operating a Chain Saw Safely. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/15/82
Area:  State
                           Tele-Tip 1443
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1443,
"Operating a Chain Saw Safely."
   Over 30,000 chain saw accidents are reported every year in the
United States...but many of these can be prevented with just a little
common sense.  For example, when you're operating a chain saw, dress
appropriately.  Don't wear a neck tie or leave a handkerchief or your
shirt tail hanging out.  Any of these things could get sucked into the
air intake of the saw or get caught in the chain.
   Wear shoes with non-slip soles.  More than one-fifth of the
reported accidents were the result of insecure footing.  Plant both
feet firmly on the ground and always wear a safety hard hat.  Limbs
falling from above or saw kickbacks make a hard hat essential.
   Kickbacks can occur when the tip of the blade strikes a small limb,
the ground or other objects.  Be alert to conditions that can cause
kickbacks and avoid them.  Hold your saw firmly in both hands to
help overcome the effects of kickback if it does happen.  Give your
undivided attention to the cut you're making.  Don't take children or
pets to the woods with you.
   Chain tension is another important safety consideration.  If the
chain is too loose, it will wear out more quickly...if the chain is too
tight, it will move when the engine is idling.  A saw with either of
these conditions is dangerous...your owners manual should describe the
correct tension.
   A sharp saw not only cuts easier and faster, but it's safer to use.
A dull saw jumps in the cut and produces fine sawdust rather than
chips.  You should learn to recognize this condition. Your operators
manual will list many tips and safety rules.  Study and practice them.
Your power saw can be highly productive and satisfactory to use.
Use it properly.
   For more information and suggestions about the proper use of chain
saws and other lawn maintenance equipment, call the county agent in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Removing Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1444
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1444,
"Removing Trees."
   The Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service does not recommend
that homeowners try to remove trees from city lots.  It's best to get
a competent and bonded tree surgeon for this job.  The telephone
directory lists tree surgeons who remove trees in the New Orleans
area. 
      ory lists tree surgeons who remove trees in the New Orleans get.o         
-End-
-Title-
Anticipating Shade Needs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/17/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1500
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1500,
"Anticipating Shade Needs."
   Trees are among our most permanent plants.  Some can live and
enhance a landscape for 100 years or longer.  So, it's important that
you select shade trees very carefully.  You'll be planting them not
only for yourself, but for future generations.
   Winter is the best time to plant trees.  But, winter is not the best
time to decide where to plant the trees...summer is better for deciding
where to plant because of the greater need for shade then.
   Winter is the best time to plant trees because the dormant
condition of plants, the cooler temperatures and the high moisture
content of the soil all help a newly-planted tree get off to a good
start.  Nurseries also have a good selection of new plants in
winter...so, you can choose from a wide and varied selection.
   As for deciding where to plant trees.  Watch the sun on your
house during the summer and notice the path that it travels.  The
direction of the sun's travel and the angles at which sunlight hits
your house and the things around it during the summer are quite
different from the way it travels and hits your house during the
winter...so be careful when your making your decision for shade.
   When the sun is low, you could have smaller trees, but when it is
high, you need larger trees.  Decide if you want evergreen trees or
deciduous trees...which lose their leaves in the winter.  Deciduous
trees are good for summer shade and they allow the sun to penetrate
in winter when their leaves fall.
 
Many people want "instant" shade.  This just isn't possible.   ratesing         
The trees that grow the fastest are often the most short-lived.  The
best and most enduring species usually grow a little more slowly.
Their lifespans are sometimes two to four times that of man.
   It's hard to measure in dollars the value of a mature oak, maple or
other tree sheltering your home from the summer sun, but it's
definitely an asset.  On the other hand, a weak, short-lived tree can
be a source of constant worry and frustration.
   For more information and suggestions about trees or for a free
pamphlet entitled "Trees for Louisiana Landscapes," call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Landscape Views From Inside. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/7/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1504
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1504,
"Landscape Views From Inside."
   Neither the summer nor the winter are particularly good times to
get outside for any length of time...especially when you're doing
gardening chores. Because most people prefer the comforts of air
conditioning or heating, depending on the season, outside activities
are usually limited to only those which are necessary.
   And because some much time is spent inside the house, the views
of your landscape from the inside of your home or business is
important.
   You don't have to be physically in a garden to enjoy it.  Some of
the most famous gardens of the world are only seen from within a
building.  People are not allowed to move into a these garden at
all.  You can take the same idea and apply it to your needs.
   You should plan your garden so that the living area looks as
though it moves outdoors.  It will be a better view than looking at
a heavily draped window or wall, and it will make the room appear
much larger.
   On the other hand, a planting that's carefully placed 75 to 100
feet away on the rear property line doesn't do much for the inside
and really doesn't "pay its way."  From long distances, many plants
look alike, especially evergreens.
   A variety of trees and shrubs have seasonal color changes, and
can add a new and distinctive look to your homesite.  You can open
the draperies in your living and sleeping areas and reveal the
beauty of the natural world.
   In the late summer, a checklist of ways to improve the interior-
exterior relationship of your house and garden and make the view
from within a memorable part of family living.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Low Maintenance Landscapes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1506
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1506,
"Low Maintenance Landscapes."
   Probably, one of your highest priorities in landscape planning is
low maintenance...but you should know that attempts to reduce
maintenance should begin with planning...not later after the plants are
in the ground.
   During the spring, it's easy to over-plant because you tend not to
think about having to care for all those plants during the hot summer
months.
   The basic question that should be answered at the outset is...how
much maintenance do you want to do and how much can you do.
Certainly, you don't have to keep your landscape in the tradition of
formal gardens when a more natural and casual appearance is
acceptable and sometimes preferred.
   When you're preparing your landscape...don't take shortcuts when
you're preparing the bed.  Good soil preparation will help the plant to
grow and generally the plant will take care of itself in a fairly short
time.
   Mulch your plantings to reduce weed competition and to let you get
rid of the weeds and grasses easier.
   Eliminate small patches of grass in places where it's hard to mow.
You might consider a ground cover for these areas.
   Carefully consider the amount and location of planting beds which
will need extra care.
   Keep the planting design simple.  Accept the fact that elaborate
plantings require a great deal of attention.
   Remember, the coolness of spring will give way to the heat of
summer.  Don't become over-enthusiastic when you're planning and
planting your landscape. 
If you would like to have more information about low maintenance                
landscapes, call the county agent or home economist in your parish
office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service. 
                                                 st in your parish              
-End-
-Title-
Planters in the Landscape. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1509
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1509,
"Planters in the Landscape."
   Planters have many uses in the landscape...such as defining traffic
patterns, providing accent and relieving monotony.
   The overall design of a planter should be in harmony with its
surroundings.  By using the same material in the planter that's used in
the house helps unify the landscape and the building.
   Sometimes plants don't perform well in planters and one of the
most common reasons is poor drainage.  To get good drainage in your
planter, use a planting mix of at least 50 percent organic matter, and
a generous amount of sand.
   You will need to water plants growing in planters more often than
plants growing in the ground...this is particularly true during the
summer.
   When you're selecting your plants for the planter, choose those
which grow under more arid conditions and be sure not to mix plants
with different growing requirements.  For example, you wouldn't want
to put plants that need a lot of sun in the same planter as plants that
need a lot of shade.
   Spring is a good time for planting annuals for spring and summer
color. Most nurseries have a good assortment of plants during the
spring.
   If you would like to have more information about using planters in
your landscape, call the county agent or home economist in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Wood in the Landscape. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/17/82 (Mills)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1511
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1511,
"Wood in the Landscape."
   When you're choosing wood for your landscape structures such as
fences and decks, you have three main choices.  Pressure-treated
Southern timber is usually the most reliable and economical choice.
Fences and decks built with pressure-treated wood should last at least
25 years.  Buy pressure-treated wood from a reputable supplier and
ask if the wood is intended for use above ground or in the ground.
In-ground treated wood should be used when the wood touches the
ground.  It will last much longer than above-ground wood for outside
uses.
   You can also select heartwood of natural decay and insect
resistant-woods such as black locust, redwood, white oak, cedar and
cypress.  Naturally resistant heartwood has a more variable lifespan
than pressure-treated wood.  Of the naturally resistant woods, black
locust and osage orange are excellent for fencing.  Black locust posts
with three or more inches of yellow-brown heartwood and eight or
more rings per inch will last at least 15 years in the ground.  Osage
orange heartwood will last about that long, too.
   Cedar, cypress, redwood and white oak heartwood posts will last
from five to 15 years in the ground.  Sap pine, hickory, red oak,
spruce, sweetgum and yellow poplar heartwood posts will last from two
to ten years.  But, locating heartwood is the biggest problem.  There's
just not much "true" heartwood available today.
 
The heartwood of the naturally resistant woods such as cedar,   There's         
cypress and redwood can be used above ground in decks or fences as
well as for fence posts.  The lighter-colored sapwood of all naturally
resistant species decay in one to five years in the ground.  You should
trim off sapwood posts before you set them.
   If you have plenty of Southern pine, you can treat it yourself if
you intend to use it above ground.  The best treatment is to soak the
lumber or posts for at least several weeks in a pentachlorophenol
solution.  Brushing or spraying pine with preservative solutions won't
give enough protection if it is to be used in the ground.  This wood
needs to be soaked or pressure treated.
   Don't use untreated sap pine, fir or spruce for fences or decks.
However, if you've already built structures with untreated wood, you
can brush or spray all the surfaces with a water-repellent
preservative.  You should do this at least twice and then reapply the
preservative every year or two.  This will prolong the life of the
structures.
   For more information and suggestions about using wood in your
landscape, call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Wood Fences. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/8/82 (Mills)
Area:  State


                           Tele-Tip 1512
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1512,
"Wood Fences."
   Because of our sub-tropical climate, your choice of building
materials for a fence is just about the most important decision of
the whole project.
   If you use the wrong materials and a poor design...the fence is
destined to a short life...this is especially true when it comes to
fence posts.  Because fence posts come in contact with the soil,
they should be pressure-treated to protect them from decay and
insects.
   Horizontal parts of the fence, which connect the posts, should be
made of either naturally decay-resistant wood such as cypress,
cedar, or redwood...or it should be pressure-treated with a
preservative for above-ground use.
   The vertical boards should also be either naturally decay
resistant or pressure-treated.  Don't allow the vertical board to
come in contact with the soil.
   The boards should be fastened with hot-dipped galvanized nails so
rust from the nails won't discolor the wood.  Also, if at all
possible, don't join the fence to the house...this could be a way
for termites to enter your house.
   If you paint your fence, it can become a continual chore keeping
it painted.  Instead, consider a penetrating stain which contains a
preservative and water repellent.
   If you would like to have more information about lawn fences,
call the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               ce.omist in your parish office of theetd         
-End-
-Title-
Arbors. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1513
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1513,
"Arbors."
   An arbor is an excellent way to make an outdoor room for both
people and plants.  It is inexpensive to build and you can get garden
manuals on outdoor structures that give complete instructions which
make it an easy project.
   An arbor serves many purposes.  It can add to the living space of
a family room, dining room, or can offer an opportunity to use plants
in many different ways, such as hanging vines and potted plants.
   Not only do arbors offer shelter for people and plants, but it
serves a practical purpose as well.  Large areas of glass that are
exposed to the afternoon sun can be shaded with the addition of an
arbor.  Vines covering the structure give shading in the summer, and
if you choose a vine which loses its leaves in the late fall, the
exposure to the winter sun will help heat your houses.
   An arbor gives an otherwise dull outdoor space more appeal, and at
the same time adds to the living space of your house.  The practical
and visual advantages of an arbor make it a worthwhile project.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Vines," call the county agent or home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Growing Apples and Pears. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1600
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1600, "Growing Apples and Pears."
   Apples produce best in Louisiana when they're grown in the
central, northern part of the state...but there are varieties which will
produce in the southern part of the state.  You shouldn't expect
apples grown in south Louisiana to be as good as those grown in the
northern parts of the United States.  The growing conditions just
aren't as good here in Louisiana.
   Good varieties for south Louisiana are:  Anna, Molly's Delicious,
Dorsett Einshemer, Granny Smith, Beverly Hills and Tropical Beauty.
Apple varieties for north Louisiana are:  Yellow Delicious, Golden
Delicious, and Starkrimson Delicious.
   Pollination is a problem with some varieties of apples.  At least
two varieties should be planted in the same general area to ensure
cross pollination.  But, just planting two varieties close together isn't
enough...you must be sure that they are the right varieties, that is,
that they will pollinate each other.  You can get this information from
your county agent.
   One other comment about apples...they must be planted in soils
with excellent drainage.  You should never plant apples in heavy, clay
gumbo-type soils.  If you plant apples in poorly drained soils, they will
not live as long as they otherwise might.
   Now, let's talk about pears...the pear is one of the most commonly
grown fruits in Louisiana.  It produces well in all parts of the state if
the proper varieties are grown.  The pear grows well on a rather wide
range of soil types but performs best on relatively light, rich soils.
It's reasonably tolerant of high water tables and will withstand either
drought or excessive moisture for long periods of time.
 
The best varieties for Louisiana are Orient, Baldwin, Moonglow,   itherif       
LeConte, Kieffer and Biscamp.  Of these, Orient and Biscamp are the
most resistant to fire blight.  Fire blight kills many pear trees in the
state every year.
   LeConte matures in late July and early August.  The other varieties
mature later, however, none of them will mature completely on the
tree.  Pears should be picked when they're at a relatively green stage
and then allowed to ripen in a room where the temperature is held at
60 to 62 degrees.  This ripening will take about two-to-three weeks.
After ripening, the pears will be mellow and of good eating quality.
This is particularly true for the Orient variety.
   Pears don't normally need a lot of commercial fertilizer.  Where
the soil is extremely poor, it may be necessary to add fertilizer to get
rapid growth in early spring.  While nitrogen seems to be the element
most needed by pear trees, it's advisable to use a complete fertilizer
such as 8-8-8 at no more than one-half pound per year of age of the
tree.
   Pear trees really shouldn't grow excessively.  The ideal situation is
for the the tree to grow rapidly in the spring and then more slowly
during the summer.  This produces harder wood in the tree and usually
much less injury from fire blight.
   There are a couple of fungus diseases you should watch for and
control.  They are early leaf spot and late leaf spot.  Early leaf spot
is very destructive and starts as soon as the tree produces leaves.  If
early leaf spot is not controlled, the tree will be defoliated by early
summer.
   Late leaf spot usually starts in late June.  It, too, will defoliate
the tree.  There are excellent fungicides available for controlling both
of these diseases.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees, or for a free pamphlet called "The Louisiana Home Orchard,"
call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pruning Apple Trees and Pear Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1601
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1601, "Pruning Apple Trees and Pear Trees."
   The most popular method of pruning apple and pear trees is the
"central leader form."  Its main characteristic is the central trunk
with scaffold branches growing from it.  One of the best examples of
the central type form is the pine tree.
   The trunk should be noticeably larger than the branches, and the
branches should be well separated up the trunk.  The lowest branch
should be two to three feet from the ground...but this is a matter of
personal taste.  A fruit variety with wide-spreading branches should
have the first branch starting higher than a variety with upright
branches.
   Young, two-year-old trees which come from nurseries will have
several branches...each one no more than three inches apart.  They
may also have one, two or more leaders.  If there are two or three
leaders, they form narrow crotches where they join.  Such crotches
are weak and tend to break in a storm or during a season with a
heavy crop.
   After you select the leader, choose the first or the lowest branch
for your tree. It's important that all scaffold branches have wide
angles where they join the trunk.
   The first year of training usually produces a tree with one branch...
sometimes two...and a central leader.  Cut back very long leaders to
about twenty inches.  New lateral branches will grow from the leader
next year.  From these you can choose another scaffold branch or
two.  As the tree grows older and taller, cut the top off at about ten
feet.  Make this cut at the junction at a lateral branch.  This, then,
becomes what is known as a modified leader.
 
On older apple and pear trees, annual pruning is also necessary,   en,..f       
but the principles involved are a little different.  In pruning young
trees, as previously described, a great deal of attention is given to the
spacing of branches and the mechanical strength as well as the
formation of the framework.
   With the older bearing tree, growth and different parts must be
kept balanced by new growth evenly distributed throughout the tree.
At the same time the spreading habit must be maintained rather than
allowing the tree to become too tall and leggy.
   The purpose of pruning matured trees is to remove sprouts and
dead, diseased, injured, broken or interfering branches and to thin out
the tops of the tree so sunlight can penetrate.
   Mature trees may be pruned at any time during their dormancy but
the preferred time is in early spring before growth begins.  Water
sprouts are suckers arising from the lower trunk and roots. Water
sprouts and diseased or broken branches may be removed at any time,
but all heavy pruning should be complete before the bud break in the
spring.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees, or for a free pamphlet called "The Louisiana Home Orchard,"
call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Blackberries. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1602
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1602, "Blackberries."
   There are basically two kinds of blackberries that you can grow in
your fruit orchard...and the differences are more with the vines than
with the fruit.
   One kind of blackberry is the erect type which has arched, self-
supporting canes.  The other kind of blackberry...the trailing type...
has canes which are not self-supporting and must be tied on a trellis.
Generally, the trailing-type blackberries ripen earlier than the erect
type and the fruit clusters of the trailing-type are smaller and more
open.
   The recommended varieties of the erect type blackberries are
Brazos, Comanche, Cheyenne, Cherokee, Womack, Brison and
Rosburogh.  The recommended varieties of trailing type blackberries
are Boysenberry, and Youngberry.
   There are several varieties of thornless blackberries, but they're
usually of the trailing type and are commonly less productive than the
thorny varieties.
   Blackberries can be planted by using either root cuttings or
transplants.  Root cuttings are more economical...but, transplants
produce berries about a year earlier than root cuttings.
   You should plant blackberries on four-foot squares or in a hedge
fashion on rows spaced six feet apart.  A well prepared plant bed is
essential for blackberries.  Deep cultivation and turning under one or
two cover crops prior to planting improves the physical condition of
the soil.
 
Root cuttings should be planted horizontally four-to-six inches   oforthe       
deep.  The deeper plantings should be in sandy soils while the more
shallow plantings should be in heavier soils.  When you use plants, cut
the canes back to six inches from the ground.  This six inch top will
make handling easier. Don't expect any blackberries from root cuttings
until the year after they're planted.
   Blackberries must be pruned every year...normally in June
immediately after they have produced berries.  Pruning is simply a
matter of removing the old canes that bore the fruit and leaving new
growth which had no berries.  The old growth will serve no
purpose...and it may create insect and disease problems.  Some people
find it easier to mow down all the vines to within several inches of
the ground after the berries have been picked...and then let new
growth come back from the roots for next year.  If you use this
technique, you will not pick as many berries the following year as you
will if you prune out only the old vines.
   For more information and suggestions about growing blackberries or
for a free pamphlet called "Growing Blackberries for Pleasure and
Profit," call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Growing Blueberries. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1603
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1603, "Growing Blueberries."
   Blueberries are becoming a popular home garden fruit in Louisiana.
When you buy plants, be sure you get the Rabbiteye blueberry.  It's
specifically adapted to southern conditions.  Although there are several
varieties which grow in Louisiana, the best ones are Tifblue, Woodard,
Climax, Gardenblue, Southland and Delight.
   The most important soil requirement for Rabbiteye blueberries is
soil pH.  Rabbiteye blueberries perform best when they're grown in a
sandy loam soil with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5.  Without proper acidity, they
will grow poorly.  Don't plant blueberries in soil containing large
amounts of wood ash.  Burned wood leaves behind minerals and salts
that raise the pH above acceptable levels for good blueberry growth.
   Other soil factors can limit blueberry growth, too.  Don't plant in
areas of deep sands or in soils with low fertility and low water-
holding capacity.  Adequate drainage is a must.  Blueberry plants will
not tolerate excessive moisture and this can be a probelm in soils with
poor internal drainage.
   Before planting blueberries, test the soil to determine its pH and
the amounts of minerals and organic matter present.  If you need to
lower soil pH, use finely ground sulfur.  Because sulfur reacts slowly
and must be converted to a sulfate by soil bacteria, the change in soil
pH is slow.  You'll need to add sulfur to the soil and mix it
thoroughly several months before you plant. 
The amount of sulfur to use for lowering soil pH will vary.  But,               
generally speaking, to lower the pH from 6.5 to 5.5, use about a pound
and one-half of sulfur for 100 square feet of soil.  Double the amount
to 3 pounds to lower the pH from 7.5 to 5.5  Half the amount to 3/4
of a pound to lower the pH from 6.0 to 5.5.
   Aluminum sulfate may also be used to lower soil pH.  Aluminum
sulfate is water soluble and can be applied on soil and watered in.  It
will reduce the soil pH and increase the availability of iron.  Apply
aluminum sulfate at the rate of three ounces for each square yard of
soil.  On soils of high pH, treat again in two or three months.
   For small plantings of blueberries, the soil structure is improved
most easily by adding organic matter such as sawdust, peat or
leafmold.  Heavy soils require more organic matter and are harder to
maintain.
   Peat moss should be added around the roots of each plant when the
plants are set.  You should use at least one gallon of wet peat moss
for each plant.
   Ideally, soils for blueberries should contain a lot of organic matter.
If the soil has less than one percent organic matter, plant a cover
crop at least one year before planting blueberries.  Suggested cover
crops are:  Southern peas, ryegrass or a suitable green manure crop.
Plow this material under before you plant blueberries.
   In low, poorly-drained areas, set plants on ridges.  Arrange rows to
provide adequate drainage.  This preparation should be done a year
before you want to plant blueberries.  The most satisfactory spacing
for the berry plants will be determined by the equipment used in
cultivation.  Ideally, plants should be six feet apart in rows 12 feet
apart.  Don't place rows closer than 12 feet and don't plant
blueberries closer than five feet.               For more
information and suggestions about growing fruits and berries or for a
free pamphlet called "Growing Rabbiteye Blueberries in Louisiana," call
the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Treating Freeze-Damaged Citrus Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/24/82 (Puls)
Area:  South Louisiana

                           TeleTip 1604
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1604,
"Treating Freeze-Damaged Citrus Trees."
   Several factors determine how badly a citrus tree is damaged by
freezing weather...factors like the duration of the freeze, the variety
of the tree, the tree's age and how much protection it received.
   Even though you protect your citrus trees, they still may be
damaged and the damage may not become apparent immediately.
Dieback of a freeze-damaged tree may continue during an entire
season in cases where the injury was very severe.
   Generally, you shouldn't do any pruning until summer...after the
freeze.  Waiting gives the tree plenty of time to produce new growth
and gives you time to see just how badly the tree was injured.
   There are four types of freeze damage...light, medium, severe, and
very severe.
   The damage is considered light when only the foliage and small
twigs are injured.  Trees with light damage require little treatment
and no special pruning for the coming season.  The foliage should be
kept on the tree to nourish the root system and support the next crop
of fruit.
   The freeze damage is considered to be medium when a considerable
amount of the tops of the trees is killed...but the trunk and crown
limbs show little damage.  Again, don't prune anything until you can
tell how badly the tree was damaged...and this may take several
months.
   Whenever you have determined the extent of the damage and you
decide to do some pruning...save as much of the tree's framework as
possible.  Old limbs should be cut below all serious bark injuries.
These limbs should be cut back to strong new sprouts. 
New framework growth can be controlled by light pruning during                  
the summer.  Injured branches should be cut to new leaders, then
pruned of excessive sprouts and gradually thinned over several years.
   Freeze damage is considered severe when the top and crown limbs
have been killed...but with little injury to the trunk.  Usually, you'll
be able to see all damage by the middle of the summer and the whole
top of the tree should be removed.  Again, you should cut below all
large areas of injured bark.  By this time several sprouts will have
grown to help form the new head of the tree.
   Very severe freeze damage is characterized by a dead tree top and
damage that extends well down the trunk.  Strong sprouts will appear
above the bud union and a new trunk and head will have to be
developed.  The top of the tree should be removed but you should
leave the old trunk to support the special sprout.  You should favor
the sprout and force it to grow by pinching back all the other
sprouts.
   When the new tree head is the size of a good two-year orchard
tree, you should remove the old trunk by cutting it above the base of
the new trunk.  The cut should be made at a downward angle.  The
cut should be dried and covered with a tree dressing or wax.  Larger
trees will recover more quickly because they will use several shoots
for the new head if you don't object to trees with multiple heads.
   When several shoots are used, you should remove the old trunk as
soon as you can determine the new shoots aren't damaged.  Remember
to treat all cuts.
   Now, just a couple of other comments on freeze-damaged citrus
trees.  The bark on young trees may be injured causing it to crack
and curl.  Trees of various ages may show patches of dead bark on
large limbs or trunks where there is no splitting. 
After two or three months, you should cut out all visibly damaged               
bark.  The exposed wood should be disinfected with a 10 percent
solution of commercial bleach and then painted with a commercial
wound paint.  You shouldn't cover injured bark with materials to keep
it from drying...this could cause more injury by helping rot develop.
   Citrus trees usually look wilted right after a freeze.  The reason
for this is the roots can't get water from the soil at low
temperatures.  However, most of the leaves on the trees are killed in
a freeze so the tree doesn't need as much water as it normally would.
   Irrigation should be less frequent and in smaller amounts in these
situations.  In fact, the reduced need for water may continue during
the entire
season following a freeze.  This depends on the extent of the injury and the
recover time the tree needs.  Water should be applied only if the soil appears
to need it.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit trees, call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

 
 ounty agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.rs  
-End-
-Title-
Citrus, Controlling Black Leaves. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1605
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1605, "Citrus, Controlling Black Leaves."
   Sooty mold is the substance you see on citrus trees which makes
them turn black, and while it doesn't really harm the trees, it is an
eyesore and blackens the fruit as well as the leaves.  But, you can
prevent sooty mold by controlling the sucking insects which attack
citrus trees.
   Many insects attack citrus trees...but, the white fly is the most
common pest.  In the nymph, or immature stage, which is seldom
recognized by the grower, the white fly infests the underside of leaves
and sucks sap out of them.  This injures the trees and reduces the
quality of the fruit.  Growers also object to the sooty mold fungus
which grows on the honeydew -- a sticky, syruplike material -- given
off by the immature stages of the white fly.
   You can control white flies, but be careful not to spray too early.
Don't spray when you see a lot of adult flies.  Wait 10 to 20 days
after most of them have stopped flying.  This will give the eggs time
to hatch and allow the young to be killed before they cause much
damage.  White flies are usually worse from mid-June to early August.
You can control white flies with chemicals.  When you spray, make
two applications ten days apart.  Direct the spray toward the
underside of leaves.
   Other insects besides white flies can cause the sooty mold to form
on citrus.  These include aphids, scale and mealy bugs.  They also
deposit honeydew on which the sooty mold fungus grows. 
If your trees already have a build-up of sooty mold you can remove              
it with a spray of detergent and water or an oil spray.  If you use an
oil spray, do so cautiously.  When applying oil sprays in summer, use a
summer oil and not a dormant oil.  The dormant oils are much heavier
and can severely injure trees if they're applied in hot weather.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit trees or
for a free pamphlet called "Citrus Insects," call the county agent in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                ana Cooperative Extension Service. in a         

-End-
-Title-
Citrus Fertilization. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1606
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1606, "Citrus Fertilization."
   Your citrus trees should be fertilized annually for them to maintain
good production.  Normally, you fertilize citrus trees in late January
and early February.  You should apply about one-and-a-half pounds of
6-12-6 or 8-8-8 or equivalent fertilizer for each year of the tree's age
up to 12 years or a maximum of 12 pounds of fertilizer.
   For young citrus trees, you should apply an additional two pounds
of ammonium nitrate or one-and-a-half pounds of ammonium sulfate in
late May or June for each year of the tree's age.  You should increase
the amount of nitrogen up to 12-to-15 pounds as the trees grow older.
   Apply the fertilizer by broadcasting it under and around the tree.
The heaviest applications should be just beyond the spread of the
limbs where most of the feeding roots are.  Also, after you've spread
the fertilizer, it's a good idea to water it in.  Never apply fertilizer
in extremely dry weather because you could injure the tree.
   You may want to get the fertilizer below the grass line...if so,
punch some shallow holes...about six-to-eight inches deep and apply
the fertilizer about a tablespoon at a time in these holes.  You should
punch as many of the holes as practical at and beyond the drip line of
the tree.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of your
citrus trees or for a free pamphlet called "Louisiana Citrus," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1607
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1607, ""Planting Citrus Trees."
   Homeowners in South Louisiana can use citrus trees for interesting
and attractive additions to their landscapes.  citrus trees can be used
in a variety of ways:  in hedges, mass plantings, on trellises and even
in containers on patios.
   Choosing the correct variety of citrus is important, because most
are susceptible to freeze damage.  Citrus trees vary in their resistance
to injury from freezing.  Satsumas are the most cold tolerant, followed
by kumquats, sour oranges, sweet oranges, grapefruits, lemons and
limes.  Limes aren't recommended for growing in Louisiana because of
their extreme tenderness and susceptibility to cold.  If you must have
a lime tree, plant Lakeland Limequat.  It doesn't have the flavor and
aroma of its Mexican lime parent, however.
   For growers who want lemons in a home orchard, the Meyer
variety is recommended.  Its cold hardiness is limited, however.  The
Meyer lemon ripens in October and can be used as a lime substitute in
August and September.
   The grapefruit variety planted widely in Louisiana is Ruby Red (Red
Blush).  It is similar to the old Marsh seedless in size and shape.
Grapefruit is well suited for homeowners because it will hold unusually
well on the tree after maturity without losing quality.
   Sweet oranges can be grown in the New Orleans area.  The most
desirable variety is the Valencia.  Kumquats are used mostly as
ornamental plants for decorating fancy gift boxes of citrus and as
fruit for marmalade.  Kumquats make attractive ornamental plants
either as hedges or in containers. 
The satsuma is probably the most widely grown citrus tree in                    
Louisiana.  It is cold hardy and known for its excellent annual
production.  Kimbrough is an excellent variety, as is Owari.  These
fruit are medium to small in size, may be seedless or have only a few
seeds, and can be harvested up to December.
   When you're planting citrus trees, remember that location is
important.  Select protected areas such as those of southern exposures
enclosed on all sides by thick hedges or other buildings.  These
enclosed areas offer protection against north winds.  If possible, place
citrus trees close to your home.  Heat given off by a house can give
extra protection from the cold.  Don't plant citrus trees where there
are other tree roots or where they will be shaded out by larger trees.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees or for a free pamphlet called "Louisiana Citrus," call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Citrus Pruning. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1608
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1608, "Citrus Pruning."
   Normally, citrus trees are not pruned unless there is some
structural, insect, or disease problem that needs to be corrected.
When pruning does become necessary, though, it's usually done during
January and February.
   When you're pruning citrus trees, cut off only enough branches to
accomplish a definite purpose.  For example, a primary reason for
pruning young, non-bearing trees is to shape them so that scaffold
branches will be well distributed.
   If scaffold branches are selected properly, the weak narrow
crotches can be eliminated and future breakage under heavy fruit load
can be avoided.  Proper selection of young scaffold branches will also
reduce the large pruning cuts in future years...thus reducing the
entrance of insects and decay organisms through these pruning wounds.
   The pruning of citrus trees which are of bearing age is usually
done to thin out thick growth and to facilitate spraying and
harvesting.  Dead, weak and broken limbs and disease and insect
infested woods should be removed, too.
   Where you remove large limbs, the cut surfaces should be protected
to prevent entry by insects and diseases.  All limbs should be cut
flush at the point of attachment.  A non-toxic tree coating compound
should be used to paint these wounds.
   Young trees growing in a nursery should be tied to a stake and
pruned to promote upright growth.  If you intend to try to control the
weeds under your citrus trees, it's a good idea to prune the lowest
limbs up off the ground so you can get to the weeds with your
chemicals.
 
If you want more information and suggestions about caring for your   eye        
citrus trees or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Louisiana Citrus," call the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Citrus Fruit Split and Drop. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1609
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1609, "Citrus Fruit Split and Drop."
   Under certain conditions citrus fruit will split and drop from the
tree...normally caused by a condition created by extremely dry weather
followed by extremely wet weather.
   During dry weather, the fruit on a citrus tree does very little
growing.  If this dry, inactive period is followed by extremely heavy
rain, the fruit attempts to grow or expand much faster than its outer
covering can handle.  As a result, the fruit will split and pop open.
Then, after the fruit has split, disease organisms enter the wound
causing the fruit to sour and drop.
   The best way to prevent splitting and fruit drop on citrus trees is
to make sure the tree does not get into moisture stress situations.
Citrus trees should be irrigated weekly if they don't get weekly
rainfall.  Irrigation should be applied as a slow trickle under the tree
so the water will seep deeply into the soil.  You should trickle the
water at a rate of about two gallons per hour for approximately eight-
to-twelve hours under large mature citrus trees.
   Mulching is also an excellent way to conserve moisture and reduce
the effects of moisture stress on citrus trees.
   For more information and suggestions about taking care of your
citrus trees or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Louisiana Citrus," call the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Citrus Varieties. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1611
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1611, "Citrus Varieties."
   Which citrus variety you plant in Louisiana depends on where you
live.  As a rule, citrus is fairly easily damaged by cold weather, so no
matter where you live you can expect some occasional cold weather
problems with your citrus trees.  Only the hardier citrus varieties
should be planted north of an imaginary line which runs from New
Orleans to Lake Charles.  The least cold hearty varieties can be
planted in the southern parts of St. Mary, Lafourche, Terrebonne and
Plaquemines parishes.
   Satsumas are probably the most cold hearty citrus available to you.
The satsuma variety Armstrong Early is not as cold hearty as some of
the other satsuma varieties.  But, one advantage of Armstrong Early is
that it ripens in September while the other varieties ripen in October
and November.
   The Owari variety is an excellent satsuma with excellent quality
and yield .  The Kimbrough variety is said to more cold hearty than
other satsuma varieties, however, it has never shown this in research
evaluations.
   The next most cold hearty type of citrus is the kumquat, which is
used mostly for decorating fancy gift boxes of citrus and making
preserves and marmalade.  The Nagami and Meiwa are the kumquat
varieties most often planted in Louisiana.  They will grow wherever
satsumas grow.
   The Nagami produces oblong fruit with a smooth rind, deep orange
color and acid juice.  It ripens from October to February.  The
Nagami tree has a round dense top which makes it adaptable to
driveway plantings.
 
The Meiwa tree is similar to the Nagami tree but it produces round   rno        
fruit with a sweet pulp.  It is considered the sweet kumquat.  The
Meiwa tree is not as vigorous as the Nagami and the Meiwa fruit is
not as well suited for use in decorating gift packs.  Also, the Meiowa
appears to be less cold hearty.
   Other types of citrus you can grow, but are less cold hearty than
satsumas and kumquats are naval oranges, grapefruits, round oranges,
tangelos, tangerines, lemons and limes.
   For more information about planting and growing citrus or for a
free pamphlet called "Louisiana Citrus," call the county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Dwarf Fruit Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1612
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1612, "Dwarf Fruit Trees."
   Commonly grown dwarf fruit trees are generally about thrirty-to-
fourty percent smaller than standard fruit trees...and small apple, pear
and peach trees are well adapted for growing in small gardens where
space is limited.  But, you should know that dwarf fruit trees are not
as easy to grow and generally have more problems than standard size
fruit trees.
   First, let's look at some of the advantages of using dwarf fruit
trees instead of the standard size trees.  Dwarfs begin to bear at an
earlier age...they can be conveniently sprayed and pruned...the fruit is
easily harvested without ladders...the fruit is highly colored and larger
than average size for the variety...and pollination may be insured by
planting several varieties in a limited space.
   Now, the disadvantages...dwarf fruit trees have under-developed
root systems compared to standard fruit trees which means they can
be easily uprooted or blown over in high winds.  Also, dwarf fruit
trees are more susceptible to problems brought on by poor soil
conditions...problems such as soil rot and other diseases.
   Dwarfed pears are produced by budding the desired variety of pear
on quince.  Apples are budded on selected apple seedlings.  These
seedlings are generally less vigorous and therefore produce a dwarfish-
type tree.
   There are dwarf varieties of peaches available, but these are
genetically dwarfed varieties which don't require specific root stocks.
The fruit of dwarf peaches is usually equal to standard size peach
varieties and can be grown in containers on the patio.
 
You may find that some nurseries don't carry dwarf fruit trees, but   .er       
many of the larger mail order nurseries do sell them.  When you order
dwarf fruit trees be sure to specify the combination of root stocks
and varieties you want.
   If you want more information and suggestions about buying,
planting and growing dwarf fruit trees, call the county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Figs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1613
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1613, "Figs."
   Figs may be the most universally grown crop in Louisiana and at
least part of the reason for this popularity is their ability to grow in
several different kinds of soils.
   While there are several varieties of figs which grow well in
Louisiana, Celeste seems to be the most popular.  Celeste is grown in
almost every part of the state because the tree becomes dormant early
in the winter and very tolerant of cold weather.  Celeste is also
known by other names such as Celestial, Celeste Violette, Sugar, Small
Brown, Malta and Blue Celeste.
   Another excellent variety for Louisiana is Brown Turkey.  Brown
Turkey produces medium to large fruit with copper or bronze skin and
amber pulp.  The eye of this fruit is medium open and because of this
it is more susceptible to splitting and souring than are the Celeste
fruits.
   Other varieties commonly planted in Louisiana are Florentine, Hunt,
and Magnolia.
   As mentioned earlier, figs can be planted in a wide variety of soils.
If you plant them in shallow, dry soils...or in unusually fertile soils,
your trees should be spaced further apart...one tree in a square that's
twenty feet by twenty feet.  If you want a bush type fig tree, you
can plant them as close as one tree in a square that's ten feet by ten
feet.
 
You should plant fig trees where they can get full sunlight most of   s,r       
the day.  However, tall trees can sometimes protect fig trees from
severe cold and may be desireable in some locations where there is no
other way to protect them.  However, if you decide to plant under or
near a large tree you should remember stay clear of large trees that
create dense shade or compete for nutrients and soil moisture.
   Fig trees planted to a northern exposure receive more cold
temperatures late in the winter and don't break dormancy...or leaf out
as early as those trees planted to a southern exposure.  So, the
northern planted trees may not be as vulnerable to late spring frosts.
   One of the most important growing requirements of figs is that
they need to be mulched heavily every year.  A good layer of organic
mulch placed over the root system of fig trees will help prevent water
stress and fruit drop during the hotter, drier times of summer.  Any
organic material such as leaves, pine straw, grass clippings...and so
forth...can be used as mulch.
   Fig trees should be fertilized every year with a complete fertilizer
such as 8-8-8 at the rate of about one pound for every year of the
tree's age up to ten years.  Trees which are ten years old or older
should be fertilized every year, but with no more than ten pounds of
fertilizer.
   A good indication of a tree's need for fertilizer is the amount of
shoot growth on the tree...it should be about one to one-and-a-half
feet per year.  Too little shoot growth results in few figs.  Excessive
shoot growth delays the ripening of the figs and lowers the quality.
   You shouldn't fertilize fig trees in late summer, since young,
succulent growth is more susceptible to cold injury.
 
If you want more information and suggestions about growing fig   ty.ive,r       
trees or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Figs for
Commercial and Home Orchards in Louisiana," call the county agent in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pruning Fig Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1614
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1614, "Pruning Fig Trees."
   The way you prune a fig tree depends on the type of plant you
want.
   If you want a fig tree...as opposed to a fig bush...you plant your
fig tree about two inches deeper than it grew in the nursery.  The
transplanted tree should be headed back...that is...cut off, to promote
lateral, or side branches.  If these side branches grow as they should
and form wide angles from the main trunk...they should be left to
develop.  If these branches grow to form narrow angles, they should
be removed.
   Pruning during the second and third dormant seasons should consist
of thinning out the undesirable branches just mentioned and heading
back the main branches to keep them smaller than the main trunk.
You should not let the tree develop multiple trunks.  Also, thick,
inward growth should be removed to keep the tree open.  All diseased
and dead wood should also be removed along with suckers and water
sprouts.
   Now, if you want a fig bush...instead of a fig tree...the tree should
be transplanted about four inches deeper than it originally grew in the
nursery.  This helps sprouts develop at ground level.
   When you transplant your young fig plant, it should be headed back
to about half of its original height.  During the following winter, you
will select four-to-six well spaced, upright growing sprouts.  These
sprouts are used as fruiting wood and may be kept pruned so that
most of the fruit are easily harvested without having to use a ladder.
   Pruning upward-growing shoots, short...and outward-growing shoots,
long, will produce a flat-top tree.  This kind of pruning is especially
suited to areas where fig trees are frequently killed by cold weather.

 
Regular pruning increases fruit size because of its thinning effect.   dr       
The heading back of main branches and the removal of dead, weak and
undesirable wood will do this.  If you prune your fig trees regularly,
you should make most cuts with pruning shears.  All large cuts should
be treated with a protective wound healing compound.
   If you would like more information about growing fig trees or if
you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Figs for Commercial
and Home Orchards in Louisiana," call the county agent in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Growing Peaches. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1617
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1617, "Growing Peaches."
   Peaches are an excellent fruit for a family orchard, but if you're
going to plant one tree, select a citrus fruit tree or a pear tree
because peach trees require a lot of attention and are unattractive
when planted alone.
   Each peach variety requires a certain amount of winter chilling
below 45 degrees Fahrenheit before it will bloom and grow normally.
Varieties recommended for the New Orleans area include:  Sam
Houston, La Feliciana, May Gold and others.
   Our high humidity fosters diseases and insect problems, and you'll
need to spray often to overcome these pests.  If you aren't committed
to following a spraying program, don't plant peach trees.
   The ideal soil for peaches is from 12 to 36 inches of sandy loam
soil underlaid with a porous red clay subsoil.  The topsoil and subsoil
should have good internal drainage with no water logging problems.
The clay subsoil should anchor the trees and serve as a major water
reservoir.  If you have silt or clay soil with poor internal drainage,
plant your peach trees on slightly raised beds.  This will encourage
maximum surface drainage.
   The location of your peach trees is important.  Peach trees in full
bloom located on a higher elevation with good air movement will
suffer little or no freeze damage if the temperature drops to 29
degrees on a March morning.  Trees in a low or flat area could lose
their crops though.  You'll also need to provide mature trees with
water, so plant where irrigation water is available.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees or for a free pamphlet called "Louisiana Home Fruit Orchard,"
call the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Pruning Peach and Nectarine Trees. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/15/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1618
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1618, "Pruning Peach and Nectarine Trees."
   People with home orchards can use pruning to real advantage in
the production of large, quality fruit with good color.
   Peach trees which are trained and pruned properly are well-shaped
and capable of supporting heavy crop loads.  They are also capable of
withstanding strong winds.  Pruning also stimulates growth.  This is
important, because peach trees bear their fruit on one-year-old wood.
This means that pruning is one of the best means available to assure
an annual supply of this essential wood on which fruit is borne.
   Both peaches and nectarines can be trained by the three-limb open
center method.  During the first two or three years, the training
develops the proper framework of the young tree.  By the third year,
properly handled trees will begin to bear significantly.  Then the type
of pruning changes.  Follow these steps to train and prune peach and
nectarine trees:
   At planting time, prune the nursery tree to a single stem, or whip,
and top at a height of two feet.  Remove branches lower than about
16 inches and cut others back to short stubs with one or two buds.
This ensures that the tree will have enough buds for tree growth in
the spring.
   Within a few weeks after growth begins in the spring, choose three
or four vigorous shoots about six to 12 inches long arising from near
the same point on the main stem, at a height of about 18 to 24
inches.  These young shoots will become the primary scaffold limbs, so
they should be spaced evenly and point in different directions. Cut
back all other shoots by one-half.  The short stub of the main stem
above the junction with the highest scaffold limb can be removed or
left intact. If this stub is left, remove all young shoots and buds on
it.  The main advantage in leaving the stub is that it serves as a
spreader and helps keep the top scaffold limb from becoming the
dominant growing branch.
   During the first growing season, let the three scaffold limbs grow
unchecked but remove all other shoots.  During the first winter,
remove all branches arising from the main stem except for the three
primary scaffold branches, but watersprouts--vigorous, upright shoots--
arising on the lower parts of these main branches and on low-lying
limbs should be removed.
   Continue this same training and pruning procedure for the second
winter.  If, at this later stage, the tree height has reached about five
or six feet, prune growth terminals back to an outward growing
branch.  This may not be necessary until the third winter.  Remove
any large, lateral branches growing inward.  These will cause excessive
shading of the center of the tree.
   Beginning in the third winter and in the winters following, pruning
will consist mainly of heading back growth terminals to an outward
growing branch. This helps reduce excessive tree height and maintains
branches growing in the proper direction to keep the center of the
tree open to sunlight.  You'll also need to remove excess branches
such as watersprouts and overcrowded branches.  Remove all dead or
diseased branches, too.  The variety and vigor of the trees will
determine if you need to thin and renew fruiting terminals.
   You might want to allow trees to grow so tall that you need a
ladder to harvest fruit.  Or you may want to keep them at a height
where you can reach the fruit without a ladder.
   You'll need to keep the center of the tree fairly open, but don't
strip the center of all bearing wood.  When it's necessary to limit the
height or spread of an older tree, do this by heading back to two- or
three-year-old wood where one or more side branches occur.
   Properly cared for peach trees should live and produce peaches for
10 to 12 years--possibly longer.  Pruning is an important step toward
the ultimate success of your peach trees.  For maximum benefits, do it
at the right time and in the correct manner.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees or for a pamphlet called "Louisiana Fruit Orchard," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Pecans, Planting and Fertilization. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1620
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1620, "Pecans, Planting and Fertilization."
   Proper planting and proper training of pecan trees are very
important in the growing of pecans.
   Success with pecan trees at your home depends on...buying vigorous
and fresh pecan nursery stock...keeping the root system moist at all
times...reducing the budded or grafted top by one-third to one-half at
the time of planting...and using container-grown trees whenever
possible.
   When you're looking for pecan trees, you should choose sturdy,
vigorous plants from a reliable nursery.  There should be no disease or
nematode damage on the roots and the tops should be well developed
and identified correctly.  A moderate size tree...about four to six feet
tall...from a nursery will suffer less transplant shock and usually will
become established more quickly and grow faster than a large tree.
   Keep the root system moist at all times.  You should plant the tree
immediately when you get it.  If it will be several days before you get
a chance to plant it, you should heel it in with moist soil.
   Before you plant, cut off all broken and bruised roots with shears
or a sharp knife.  Most new roots develop on side roots and not more
than ten inches from the tap root.
   Before you put the tree in the ground, remove the top one-third to
one-half.  This will help the tree  compensate for the part of the root
system that was lost when it was dug up at the nursery.
 
Dig the hole for the tree just wide enough and deep enough for   e rootlr       
the root system to fit without bending any of the roots.  If the soil is
really heavy textured or has little nutritive value and you're tempted
to dig a large hole and bring in some better topsoil...the location
probably is not suitable for pecans.
   If you soil is really heavy and has poor internal drainage, you will
need to plant your tree on a raised bed or on a turtle back.  Set the
tree at the same depth it was planted at the nursery...and arrange the
roots in their natural position.
   Fill the hole about three-quarters full with the same soil that was
taken from the hole.  Pour water into the hole to settle the soil,
eliminate air pockets and keep the roots moist.
   Keeping the right amount of moisture around the roots of young
trees is very important the first season.  The best way to water young
trees is with a slow soaking over several hours.  The water should
trickle at one to two gallons per hour.  Frequent, shallow irrigations
do little, if any, good.
   Pecan trees should be fertilized every year.  One year old trees
should be fertilized during the late dormant season...usually February
or early March.  Young trees planted in deep, loamy, fertile soils may
not need fertilizer immediately.  But, trees transplanted into unfertile
soils may require several applications of fertilizer beginning in June of
the year the tree was transplanted.
   Apply the fertilizer in a narrow band...two to three feet
wide...under the tree from the trunk to slightly beyond the tip of the
branches.  Be careful when you put out fertilizer this way because you
can injure the lawn grass.
If you decide to apply fertilizer after it has been dry for a long time,
it's best to water the area thoroughly...with about one to two inches
of water.
 
How much fertilizer you use depends on the size of the tree.   inchesme,f       
Apply three pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or an
equivalent amount of another fertilizer for every inch of trunk
diameter measured about four feet above the soil line.  During the
growing season...in the months of May or June...add another half pound
of ammonia nitrate per inch of trunk diameter.
   Fertilizer can be applied in shallow holes six-to-eight inches deep
dug at or beyond the drip line of the tree.  As many holes as is
practical should be used to distribute and dilute the fertilizer as much
as possible.  Put no more
that two or three tablespoons of fertilizer in each hole.
   For more information and suggestions about growing pecan trees, call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pecans, Reasons for Poor Quality. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/29/82 (Puls)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1621
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1621,
"Pecans, Reasons for Poor Quality."
   Even in years with bumper crops, pecan trees do not always
produce top quality nuts.  The causes for loss in pecan quality are
numerous. One such cause is too little water.
   Pecans go through two stages of development.  Stage one occurs
during the first 100 days when the nut develops in size.  No real
kernel development takes place in stage one.  In stage two, which
begins after the first 100 days, the kernels begin to fill out and
become solid.  Kernel development is the critical period--the time
when pecan quality can be affected most seriously.  Lack of water at
this stage cuts the percentage of fill in the nut itself.
   Small pecans reflect a possible water deficit early in the nut's
development.  Poorly filled pecans generally mean the nuts didn't
receive enough water in stage two.
   A fungus disease called scab is another cause of poor nut quality.
Scab, which results in shriveled kernels, affects the leaves and
covering of nuts and is characterized by many black lesions.  Once the
covering, or shuck, is damaged or destroyed, kernel development
ceases because of poor nutrition.  Sometimes you can harvest fully
sized nuts that, when cracked, have little--if any--kernel.
   An insect called the hickory shuck worm is a serious pest which
feeds on pecan shucks.  It can affect pecan quality, too.  Damage is
recognized at harvest when the shuck fails to separate from the nut
itself.
   Poor fertility can affect nut quality, too.  Each pecan needs about
40 leaflets to support its development.  Fertilize pecan trees each year
to maintain quality. 
To control pecan tree problems that affect nut quality, follow a                
program of insect and disease control.  Even with a standard spray
program, pecan trees need water and fertilizer.
   For information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut trees,
call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pecan Trees in the Lawn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1622
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1622, "Pecan Trees in the Lawn."
   Pecan trees can be grown throughout Louisiana...but, don't be
deceived.  Even with modern disease resistant varieties, pecan trees
need regular fertilization, water and pesticide applications if they are
to produce nuts consistently.
   Pecan trees can be grown successfully on most Louisiana soils, but
only soils with good surface and internal drainage are considered best.
Poorly drained clay soils produce weak growing trees with few pecans.
   The ideal pecan soil is a deep, sandy, loam.  Try not to plant
pecan trees in soils with a tight, sticky sub-soil, and with a water
table higher than three feet.  If drainage is a problem, plant trees at
the highest elevation you can find or build ridges or turtle backs to
encourage better drainage.
   Pecan trees should be planted in as open an area as possible...away
from competing shade trees.  Never plant a pecan tree within 15 to 20
feet of the drip line of a larger shade tree.
   Ideally, pecan trees should get six to eight hours of full sunlight
per day.  Don't plant pecan trees in a heavily shaded environment.
   Pecan trees should be at least 30 feet apart.  In some cases where
trees are open on two sides, the spacing may be as close as 20 to 25
feet apart. But, trees planted in blocks with other trees on all four
sides should be planted 30 to 35 feet apart to prevent eventual
crowding.
 
If you would like more information and suggestions about growing   urtte        
pecan trees or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Homeowners Guide for Fertilizing Pecan Trees," call the county agent
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pecan Varieties. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1623
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1623, "Pecan Varieties."
   You should make your decision about which pecan variety to grow
based on what you like and which varieties are most resistant to
diseases.  By choosing a highly disease resistant pecan variety for
your lawn or yard, you will greatly reduce the amount of spraying you
need to do to control diseases.
   A couple of other things you may want to think about when you're
deciding on a pecan variety is how long it takes the tree to produce
pecans and the size of the nut.
   There are several varieties recommended for Louisiana home
planting... we'll begin with Elliot.  Elliot is an intermediate-to-small
sized pecan which takes eight-to-twelve years to get into production.
It has a "tear-drop" shape, excellent shell-out percentage and excellent
eating qualities.  Also, its disease resistance is excellent.
   Sumner is another good variety.  Sumner takes five-to-six years to
get into production and produces a medium sized nut and it also has
excellent disease resistance.
   Melrose...another variety...takes six-to-eight years to get into
production and produces an average to large sized pecan.  Melrose is
probably the most disease resistant of all the varieties recommended
for home plantings in Louisiana.
   Candy...the last of the recommended varieties...takes five-to-six
years to get into production and has a small to medium sized pecan
and has good to fair disease resistance.  Candy is probably the most
productive variety of those mentioned.
 
If you want more information about growing and taking care of   mostoent        
pecan trees or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Selected Pecan Varieties for Louisiana," call the county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Persimmons. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/25/82 (Puls)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1624
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1624,
"Persimmons."
   Persimmon trees make excellent shade trees and, if handled
correctly, the fruit has good cooking quality--especially in baked goods
like breads and cookies.
   There are three basic species of persimmons:  the date plum, the
American persimmon and the oriental persimmon.  Only the oriental
persimmon is recommended for home planting.
   The oriental persimmon is native to Japan and China.  It has large
fruit about the size of an apple.  Although its fruit can be strong and
bitter, some varieties are quite mild.  Persimmons require a well-aired,
well-drained soil, so correct any soil drainage problems you have
before planting.
   Contrary to common belief, the fruit of the persimmon does not
have to be exposed to a frost before it loses its strong, bitter taste.
To reduce the bitterness, harvest fruit as it begins to turn orange.
Place fruit in a cool, dry location.  As fruit becomes soft, it can be
eaten.  Do not place persimmons in the refrigerator before they ripen.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruits and
nuts, call the county agent in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Growing Nectarines. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1626
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1626, "Growing Nectarines."
   Nectarines are smooth-skinned, fuzzless peaches which are gaining
in popularity.
   Nectarines are considered by some people to be sweeter and to
have a more distinctive flavor and aroma than peaches.
   If you're interested in planting nectarines, be sure to choose
varieties suitable for New Orleans.  Some of the varieties which have
been adapted to the New Orleans area are:  Sungold, Sunred, Sunrich
and Panamint.
   Nectarines have the same climate, soil and cultural requirements as
peaches.  They don't require cross pollination, so a single tree will
bear fruit.
   Plant nectarine trees in areas receiving full sunlight and avoid
areas with poorly drained soils.  The ideal soil is a sandy loam.
Planting sites should be higher than surrounding areas so water will
drain away from trees.
   Because of their smooth skin, nectarines are more subject to
damage by certain insects--especially the plum curculio.  Oriental fruit
moths also damage nectarines.  This fruit is also susceptible to brown
rot, a fungus associated with humid weather conditions.  A spray
program to control brown rot must be persistent, because the sprays
do not stick as well on the smooth-skinned nectarine as they do on
the fuzzy-skinned peach.
   Spray nectarines with a recommended insect and fungicide mixture
such as Ortho Fruit and Nut Spray every seven to ten days during the
fruiting season.  Repeat application when excessive moisture or rainfall
occurs within 36 hours of any application.
   The Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any
commercial product by mentioning it, there may be other products
which work equally well.                         For more
information and suggestions about growing fruit or for a free
pamphlet called "Louisiana Home Fruit Orchard," call the county agent
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Growing Plums. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1627
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1627, "Growing Plums."
   Plums are among the best selections for home fruit plantings.
There are three distinct groups:  American, Japanese and European.
In each group are subgroups and varieties.  In addition, there are
many hybrids.
   Excellent varieties for south Louisiana are:  Santa Rosa, Bruce and
Methly.  Santa Rosa and Methly are excellent pollinating varieties and
should be planted in combination with other varieties.
   Plum trees vary in the pollination requirements.  Poor pollination is
the main cause of unfruitfulness among plums planted in a home
orchard.  Some varieties are partially self-sterile and others are
completely self-sterile.  Always plant two varieties.  Not just any two
varieties will pollinate each other, however.  For example, Bruce--
which is one of the recommended varieties--is a self-sterile Japanese-
American hybrid.  It needs to be pollinated by Santa Rosa.
   In selecting a site for planting plum trees, choose an area in full
sunlight.  Plums do better on clay loam soils than on lighter soils.
The lighter soils, if not too light, may be used if they are reasonably
fertile, in good physical condition and are well supplied with moisture.
Whatever the soil, it should have good drainage.  Plums are susceptible
to injury from a high water table.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit or for a
free pamphlet called "Louisiana Home Fruit Orchard," call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Plums, Pruning 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-





                           Tele-Tip 1628
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTips number
1628, "Plums, Pruning".
   People with home orchards can use pruning to real advantage in
the production of high quality plums.
   Plum trees which are trained and pruned properly are well-shaped
and capable of supporting heavy crop loads.  They are also capable of
withstanding strong winds.  Pruning also stimulates growth.
   Plums can be trained by the four-limb open center method.  During
the first two or three years, the training develops the proper
framework of the young tree.  By the third year, properly handled
trees will begin to bear significantly.  Then the type of pruning
changes.  Follow these steps to train and prune plum trees.
   At planting time, prune the nursery tree to a single stem, or whip,
and top it at a height of two feet.  Remove branches lower than
about 16 inches and cut others back to short stubs with one or two
buds.  This ensures that the tree will have enough buds for tree
growth in the spring.
   Within a few weeks after growth begins in the spring, choose four
vigorous shoots about six to 12 inches long arising from near the same
point on the main stem, at a height of about 18 to 24 inches.  These
young shoots will become the primary scaffold limbs, so they should be
spaced evenly and point in different directions.
   Cut back all other shoots by one-half.  The short stub of the main
stem above the junction with the highest scaffold limb can be removed
or left intact.  If this stub is left, remove all young shoots and buds
on it.  The main advantage in leaving the stub is that it serves as a
spreader and helps keep the top scaffold limb from becoming the
dominant growing branch.                         A light level of
pruning is recommended for the Bruce plum variety.  This means
removing one-third of the previous season's growth and thinning
interior and fruiting spurs only lightly.  Remove all overcrowded and
low hanging limbs annually, as well as excess shoots or watersprouts
arising on the trunk and main scaffold branches.  Maintain tree height
as you desire--tall enough to use a ladder to pick plums or short
enough to reach plums conveniently.
   To maintain tree vigor, you may need to use a heavier degree of
pruning every third year.  Light pruning of Bruce will result in
extremely heavy yields of medium-sized fruit.  More severe pruning
increases fruit size but reduces yield.  Plum trees will remain
productive for 10 to 12 years, maybe longer.
   Other varieties grown in Louisiana may be pruned similar to Bruce,
but less severely.  Some are more upright in growth and require little
heading back.  They'll need thinning out.  When these varieties begin
bearing fruit, little pruning is required.  Unlike peaches, plums are
borne on vigorous spurs on woods two years old or older.  Of course
these varieties can be pruned as severely as Bruce, and you'll have
fewer, but larger, fruit.  If irrigation is limited or soils are poor,
severe heading back can help produce larger fruit.
   For more information and suggestions about growing fruit and nut
trees or for a pamphlet called "Louisiana Fruit Orchard," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Globe (bur) Artichokes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/15/82
Area:  South
                           Tele-Tip 1700
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1700,
"Globe (bur) Artichokes."
   Although many of the globe artichokes found in the marketplace
come from California, there's one species that thrives well in south
Louisiana's warm climate.
   Known as the Creole, this variety of artichoke provides a tasty
dish when boiled and served with drawn butter and sauce.  Its bud
scales fold outward.
   The best source for this plant comes from rooted suckers that rise
at the base of the old plant in the Spring when the flowering stage is
over.  Since the mother plant dies after blooming, leave one of its
suckers in the ground for replacement.  Also, ignore the seed produced
by the old plant because they won't propagate plants that are true to
form.
   Artichokes flourish well in rich soil with plenty of organic matter
and fertilizer.  Use a pound of a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 per
10 feet of row.  Plant the suckers three to four feet apart.  They will
spread.
   Don't become alarmed if the plants attract green flies.  They
provide a warning that lice are invading your plants which need to be
sprayed with malathion or diazinon.
   Your artichokes are ready to be harvested when the flowers are in
the tight bud stage and the burs are plump and the scales soft.
Lateral buds continue to produce chokes.  However, they will be
smaller.
   Artichokes are usually cooked by boiling them upright for 20 to 30
minutes and served with butter or sauce.  The soft, fleshy receptacle
of the flowerhead and the thickened bases of the scales are the edible
parts.           For more gardening information and suggestions or
for a leaflet about growing artichokes, call the county agent in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Jerusalem Artichoke. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/8/82 (Koske)
Area:  State
                           Tele-Tip 1701
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1701,
"Jerusalem Artichoke."
   The Jerusalem artichoke is nothing like the standard artichoke or
globe artichoke.  The Jerusalem artichoke is much like a small
sunflower.  It is grown for its fleshy underground tubers that are used
much as Irish potatoes are used.  It is best adapted to the northern
United States.  There, large yields of tubers can be grown with very
little effort.  The plants are perennial and are re-established every
year from choke tubers that remain in the ground.  In fact, its
aggressive nature may cause it to be considered a pest.  In the Gulf
South, such as in Louisiana, growers will have problems getting good
stands and maintaining planting stocks.  Yields from southern-grown
plants may also be discouraging.
   In the north, the Jerusalem artichoke sometimes grows wild along
the roadside.  These plants produce small, edible tubers which are
inferior in quality.  Varieties offered in nurseries and catalogs will be
superior in quality.
   This large, vigorously growing plant needs rich soil and good
growing conditions to produce high yields.  Soil should be loose and
airy, and the plot should get full sun all day.  Tubers growing in
heavier soils may be more numerous but will be much smaller and
perhaps not worth the effort.
   Most soils can be improved with deep cultivation and the addition
of several inches of compost worked into the soil.  Incorporate into
the soil about a pound to a pound and one-half of complete fertilizer
such as 8-8-8 per 25 feet of row.  Build up the row so aeration and
drainage will be adequate.  Because the chokes, or tubers develop in
the ground as much as two feet away from the plant, make rows about
four feet wide. 
Set seed pieces a few inches deep and at least two feet apart in                
the row.  Plant whole tubers or tuber pieces about the size of an
Irish potato piece (about 2 ounces).  Smaller pieces will result in
smaller yields.
   Keep plant beds clean while the crop is young and developing.
Cultivation should be shallow to avoid damaging the tubers or the
stolons connecting the tubers to the mother plant.  After the plants
have grown a bit, use little or no cultivation.
   The plant will grow vigorously before setting this tubers.  Shortly
after blossoming, the green tops will begin to decline and the tubers
will begin to fill out.  Leave the tops undisturbed and growing
vigorously until harvest or frost
   When the tubers have reached a harvestable size, or when frost has
taken the plants, cut and remove the large, woody tops from the row.
Start digging about two feet from the plant.  Use a garden fork.  This
will provide the greatest yields, but it's a lot of work.  Tubers have
very thin skins and must be handled carefully.  Once they are dug,
the tubers cannot be stored for more than a few weeks without heavy
loss from shrinkage and decay.  If it's late in the season and the soil
is cool, leave them undisturbed in the soil until you need them.
   Remember:  Use only sound tubers from healthy stock.  Plant as
early as the soil can be worked in the spring -- about the same time
you plant Irish potatoes.  Plant a two-ounce piece and give it plenty
of growing room.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service. 
                   mist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperativeyil         
-End-
-Title-
Asparagus. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1702
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1702, "Asparagus."
   Asparagus can be grown in Louisiana...but the spears produced by
the plants will be slim and the harvest period will be short.
Generally, our climate is too hot for good asparagus production.  So,
the chances of producing asparagus are much better in the northern
part of the state than in the southern part.
   Asparagus is a perennial crop, which means it will come back year
after year without replanting.
   If you decide to plant asparagus, you should plant one-year-old
crowns in the fall or winter.  Choose a sunny, well-drained spot for
your permanent asparagus bed.  Plant the crowns by draping the roots
over a heavily composted mound.  Then cover the crowns with two or
three inches of loamy soil.  Rows should be about three-to-four feet
apart and the plants should be about one-to-one-and-a-half feet apart
on the rows.
   While you're preparing the bed for the plants, mix in one pound or
one pint of 8-24-24 fertilizer per 100 square feet of garden.
   Asparagus plants need several years of growth before they can
tolerate being harvested.  The one-year-old fall-planted crowns are not
to be harvested the following spring. 
Harvest three-year-old plants lightly...about every one-to-two                  
weeks.  This will allow the remaining spears that develop to produce
the "fern-like" growth.  Harvest four-year-old plants for two to three
weeks.  Harvest five year old or older plants four to five weeks.
Extensive harvesting any given year will cause the plant to produce a
very poor crop the following year and it will shorten the life of the
plants.  Encourage maximum fern-like growth after the harvest period
until frost with adequate watering, light fertilization each month and
proper care.
   Mulch your asparagus plants early and at harvest's end to cool the
crowns.  Such cooling may extend the harvest period.  Beds must be
kept free of weeds and grasses because asparagus will not tolerate
much competition. Four herbicides are recommended for controlling
weeds and grasses around asparagus.  They are dalapon, simazine,
trifluralin and metribuzin.  Be sure to read and follow the directions
on the container.
   The variety of asparagus most often recommended for Louisiana is
Mary Washington.  This variety seems to be resistant to the rust
fungus.  Other varieties used in Louisiana are Reading, Giant and
Palmetto.  It's advisable to buy root stock for asparagus rather than
planting seed.  This saves a year of growing time.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                    
-End-
-Title-
Lima Beans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  8/18/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1703
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1703,
"Lima Beans."
   Lima beans...also called butter beans...shouldn't be planted until the
danger of frost has passed in the spring and the soil temperature has
warmed up considerably.  Lima bean plants are tender and can't
withstand frost.
   March 1 is the earliest limas should be planted in the southern part
of the state and the end of March is the earliest they should be
planted in the northern part of the state.
   Lima beans are, of course, grown for their seeds...so they require a
little longer growing time than do snap beans which are grown for
their pods.  Bush limas need about 60-65 days from planting to grow
to a harvestable size.  Pole limas take longer to mature...75-90 days.
   Several varieties of lima beans do well in Louisiana.  They include:
Henderson Bush, Thorogreen, Clark's Bush, Nemagreen (which is
nematode resistant), and Jackson Wonder.  Except for Jackson Wonder,
all of these are bush beans which produce green baby limas.  Jackson
Wonder produces white beans with purple specks.  The Jackson
Wonders turn brown when you cook them and they don't taste exactly
like the others.
   If you prefer pole beans, here are the varieties which are
recommended for Louisiana:  Carolina Sieva, Florida Speckled,
Easyshell and Willow Leaf.
   If you spread out the planting of your beans to every two or three
weeks from the time you start through May, you should be able to
pick fresh beans most of the cooler part of summer and again in the
fall.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Growing Lima Beans in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
-End-
-Title-
Growing Snap Beans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1704
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1704, "Growing Snap Beans."
   Snap beans are a cool season vegetable...but they can't tolerate
frost. And because they are a cool season crop, snap beans don't set
many fruit during mid-summer when the temperatures are hot.  So, the
best time to plant snap beans is after the danger of frost and before
the middle of May.
   If you grow bush beans, make more than one planting and spread
them about two weeks apart to extend your harvest.  Pole varieties
will naturally produce for a longer time so you will need to make only
one planting.
   There are several varieties of snap beans available which give
excellent yields and quality.  Among these are Bush Blue Lake 274,
Astro, Eagle, Falcon, and Avalanche.  Some other good varieties which
have been around a while include Contender, Harvester and Provider.
   If you haven't tried one of the newer varieties you may want to
try one of them when you plant your next crop.  You may also be
interested in the yellow-podded snap beans.  The varieties Sun Gold,
Gold Crop and Sure Crop Stringless Wax are the recommended
varieties for Louisiana.  You grow the yellow-podded beans the same
way you grow the green-podded beans.
   The most popular pole snap beans to grow are Blue Lake and
Kentucky Wonder 191.  Kentucky Wonder 191 is an improvement of the
original Kentucky Wonder.
   Here's how much seed you'll need to plant your snap beans.  If
you're planting the bush varieties, a half-pound of seed will plant a
row 100 feet long. If you're planting pole varieties, one-fourth pound
will plant a row 100 feet long.  You'll want to get a stand of at least
four-to-six plants per foot of row of the bush-type beans and two-to-
three plants for every 6 to 12 inches of row for the pole types.
   Snap beans use relatively little fertilizer, but you will need to give
them some.  On soils of medium to low fertility, apply about two-to-
three pounds of a complete fertilizer per 100 feet of row before you
plant.
   The bush beans will begin producing within about 50 days from
planting, while the pole varieties will get started about 60-to-66 days
after planting.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Snap Beans," call the county agent in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Beets and Carrots. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1705
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1705, "Beets and Carrots."
   Two good crops for the winter garden are beets and carrots.  Both
are good producers, require a small space for growing, they're rich in
vitamins and are relatively easy to grow.
   Beets and carrots can be planted from September until February.
Select a well-drained area and rake the soil into rows.  If manure or
compost is to be added to the soil, be sure the material is well-rotted.
Apply one pound of an 8-24-24 fertilizer for each 25- to 30-feet of
row, then seed the vegetables one-quarter inch deep.  In medium and
heavy soils, choose only those carrot varieties which are stubby...such
as Danvers and Chantenay.
   The several weeks before the seeds germinate are critical.  Keep
the soil uniformly moist all the time around the seed area, even if this
means sprinkling lightly with water every day.  A thin layer of mulch
will help keep the seed area damp and stop the soil from crusting.
After sprouts appear, prevent over-crowding of the plants by thinning
them to one every two inches.
   Continue the uniform supply of moisture in the soil, keep the beds
weed-free, and side-dress with fertilizer after the plants are four to
five weeks old.  Don't allow carrots to stop growing because of a lack
of food or water. If they stop growing they may split or become
tough.
   The beets are ready to be harvested when the roots are two to
three inches in diameter.  Carrots can be taken from the row when
they reach a half-inch or more in diameter.  Both vegetables are high
in Vitamin C and the beet tops are rich in Vitamin A.
   The variety Ruby Queen is a good beet, but there are also some
golden type beets and some long ones.
 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county   ighkise       
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service. 
                                parish office of the Louisianay   ighkise       
-End-
-Title-
Broccoli. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1706
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1706, "Broccoli."
   Broccoli is a popular member of the cabbage family.  It can be
grown in both the spring and fall, and it's fairly easy to grow.  It
needs a well-drained, fertile soil and adequate moisture.
   For the fall garden, seed broccoli in late July through August.
Plant seed directly in the row or in pots to be transplanted later.
For spring production, plant the seed in pots in a greenhouse, hotbed
or coldframe during Janaury. Recommended varieties are:  Green
Comet, Premium Crop, Bravo, Green Hornet, Green Duke, Cleopatra,
and DeCicco.
   A week or two before planting, prepare the soil and apply about
four to five pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 8-24-24 per 100
feet of row.  If you're using transplants, set the plants at the same
depth that they are in the container.  Space them about 15 to 18
inches apart in the row.  Rows should be about three feet apart.
Water at time of transplanting.
   About three to four weeks after transplanting, and before the crop
begins to form head, sidedress with about one-half cup of ammonium
nitrate per 100 feet of row.
   Harvest broccoli after the main head develops and before the
individual flowerlets begin to open.  As the flowers open, the quality
goes down quickly.
   If caterpillars and worms are a problem, control them with
Thuricide, Biotrol, or Dipel.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Production of Cauliflower, Broccoli and Brussels
Sprouts," call the county agent or home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Growing Chinese Cabbage. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1708
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1708, "Growing Chinese Cabbage."
   Chinese cabbage is an oriental vegetable that can be grown in
Louisiana gardens and used in salads and sandwiches instead of lettuce.
It's also known as celery cabbage because some varieties are tall and
slender.  It's a close cousin of regular cabbage.  Most varieties
produce oblong, firm, crisp heads. The leaves of Chinese cabbage are
slightly wrinkled and are a lighter, brighter green than leaves of
regular cabbage.  The wide, white midribs of the leaves are crisp and
have a nice flavor.  The leaves closely resemble lettuce in color and
texture.  The mild flavor of Chinese cabbage is more like that of
lettuce than that of cabbage.
   Chinese cabbage can be grown as an early winter and mid-winter
vegetable.  If planted too late in the fall or  spring, the heads often
"bolt" or send up a flower stalk before they head up.  You can grow
Chinese cabbage from seed or from transplants.  Seeds are sold locally
and by mail order.  Plant seeds directly in late August through
October for a late fall and early winter crop.  Treat Chinese cabbage
like lettuce or regular cabbage, spacing heads one foot apart for
larger heads and 10 inches apart for smaller heads.  Fertilization,
weed control and pest control are the same as for cabbage or lettuce.
   For a spring crop, start seed in January in a protected area or
indoors where they will get plenty of light.  When plants are three to
four inches tall, set them out.  The heads are ready to pick when
they are firm.  For home use, plant double rows so heads are 2 to 3
pounds.  If spaced wider, they can reach 10 to 12 pounds.  Wrap
harvested heads in plastic and they'll last several weeks in the
refrigerator. 
Varieties recommended for home gardens are:  Burpee Hybrid, Early               
Hybrid G, Springtime, Summertime, Wintertime, Early Autumn and Early
Top 16.  The name may imply the season in which the variety matures,
but all can be grown in either the fall or spring.
   Chinese cabbage can be used as you use lettuce, but it's also good
in slaw.  It's good shredded and cooked, too.  Begin cooking the white
midrib, then add leaf blades after the midribs have cooked a little.
You might want to make relish sticks from raw midribs.  Chinese
cabbage is low in calories and good source of vitamin C.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
 
.                              the Louisiana Cooperative Extensione.te          
-End-
-Title-
Growing Cabbage. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1709
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1709, "Growing Cabbage."
   Cabbage is a cool season vegetable which can be produced in the
spring, fall and winter in Louisiana.  In south Louisiana, transplants or
seed can be planted from the end of January through February.  By
planting on several different dates, you can be sure all cabbage isn't
ready to harvest at the same time.
   This shallow-rooted crop requires moderate amounts of fertilizer.
Before planting, apply from four to six pounds of a complete such as
8-24-24 or 8-8-8 for each 100 feet of row. Sidedress with nitrogen
about three or four weeks after transplanting and four to six weeks
after seeding.  Apply ammonium nitrate at the rate of one pound for
100 hundred feet of row.
   The head size of cabbage is determined by the variety, fertilizer
and spacing between plants.  Some varieties, such as Rio Verde and
Hercules, produce large heads. Others, such as Little Rock, produce
small heads.  Plants spaced closely will produce smaller heads.  Wide
spacing will encourage production of larger heads.  Recommended
spacing is 12 to 15 inches on rows at least three feet apart.  You can
also increase production in a small garden by planting a double row on
a bed.
   In Louisiana, cabbage often "bolts" or produces seed head
prematurely.  This bolting or premature formation of seed head occurs
when cabbage is exposed to temperatures of about 40 degrees F or
lower for several weeks.  The larger the seedling exposed to these
temperatures, the more likely it is to bolt.
   Cabbage varieties recommended for Louisiana are...Rio Verde,
Market Prize, Solid Blue, A and C Number 5 plus, Fortuna, Ocala,
Greenboy, Little Rock, Tastie, Green Jewel, Superette, Round Dutch,
Blue Boy, Savoy King and Stonehead. 
For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free                    
pamphlet called "Producing Cabbage in Louisiana," call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               

-End-
-Title-
Melons. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1710
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1710, "Melons."
   You can balance off the heat from those hot summer days by
serving ice cold watermelon or cantaloupe grown in your own home
garden.
   And, whether you know them as cantaloupes or muskmelons, this
member of the melon family, along with watermelons, grows well in
Louisiana's hot climate.
   Because of their long growing season of three or four months,
seeds may be started indoors at the end of February in south
Louisiana.  The small seedlings can be transplanted three or four
weeks after the last cool spell if the soil is warm.  You can also seed
both melon varieties directly in the row by waiting until mid-March
when the soil is warm.  The soil-warming effect of black plastic mulch
will really pay off here. Also, black plastic conserves moisture
reduces the incidence of leaf disease.
   To give your melons a tasty flavor derived from proper sugar
development, select an area receiving day-long sunshine.  Provide good
drainage by building up high rows or hills.  Mix soil with generous
amounts of organic matter or bury several handfuls of compost where
the melons are to be planted.
   There's no problem involved in planting watermelons or cantelopes
next to other plants, such as cucumbers.  If the melons are planted in
rows, leave about three feet of space for cantaloupes and four feet
for watermelons.  For hill planting, thin the seedlings down to three
or four plants per hill.  Apply a pound of 8-8-8 fertilizer down 30
feet of row when vines begin to run. 
Take precautions against over-watering.  You should irrigate only               
when the plants tend to wilt during the day or when vigorous vine
growth stops.  Use hoses or flood irrigation to reduce disease
problems caused by splashing the leaves with mud.
   The cantaloupe varieties recommended by the Cooperative Extension
Service are Ambrosia, Magnum 45, Classic, Top Score, Roadside and
Burpee Hybrid.  The recommended watermelon varieties are Louisiana
Queen, Jubilee, Sweet Favorite, Charleston Gray, Calhoun Gray and
Crimson Sweet.
   Since taste is important in growing watermelons and cantaloupes,
keep in mind these points:  Select a sunny location that has good
drainage and rich organic soil, and keep the melon area free of weeds
and don't over-water your plants, especially around harvest time.
Omitting any of these steps can result in flat-tasting and poor quality
melons.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                parish office of the Louisianauntyality         
-End-
-Title-
Collards. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1714
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1714, "Collards."
   Collard greens are low in calories and nutritious.  They're also an
important source of dietary fiber.  A member of the cabbage family,
the collard forms a large rosette of leaves -- rather than a head -- as
the edible portion.
   Collards will grow on a wide range of soils, but they grow best in
well-drained soils where adequate moisture is provided by rainfall or
irrigation.  The plant is a heavy feeder, often growing two or three
feet tall.
   Collards can withstand a greater range of temperature than most
other vegetables grown in the South.  If the temperature drops
gradually for several days, collards can withstand temperatures as low
as 15 degrees Fahrenheit.
   These varieties grow well in Louisiana:  Vates, Georgia and Morris
Heading.  A small packet, or 1/16 ounce of seed, is enough to plant a
row 100 feet long.  Collards can be planted beginning in March and
through the summer into fall -- until about six to eight weeks before
the first frost.  Several days before you plan to plant, apply three to
four pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 8-24-24 for each 100 feet
of row.
   Collards can be seeded directly in the garden or transplanted from
a plant bed.  When seeding, plant the seed about one-fourth inch deep
and about one inch apart.  Seedlings should appear in about five days.
When plants are six to eight inches tall, thin them to six, twelve or
eighteen inches apart, depending upon how they will be harvested.
   Sidedress with ammonium nitrate about one month after
transplanting.  The proper rate for sidedressing is one pound per 100
feet of row.
 
You can harvest collards in several ways.  The entire young plant   0.o         
may be cut off at ground level.  Or, you can cut only the top part of
the mature plant.  Or, the bottom leaves may be broken off the plant
periodically, leaving the bud to produce more leaves.  Collards can be
harvested 12 months of the year, but generally, the flavor improves as
the weather becomes colder.  The leaves stay tender and edible for
several days after they reach maturity.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Growing Sweet Corn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1715
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1715, "Growing Sweet Corn."
   Sweet corn is a cool season vegetable, but it can be planted a
little earlier than other cool season vegetables because it can survive
a light frost.  In the New Orleans area, planting can begin in
February and continue until May.  Sweet corn planted later than
April will not do well because of insect and disease pests that will
affect its growing.  Sweet corn is among the cool season vegetables
that should not be replanted in the fall because of pest problems.
   All the soils in the New Orleans area are excellent for growing
sweet corn.  The clay soils and the sandy soils should have plenty of
leaves or compost worked into them.  Loosen the soil as deep as a
shovel will go--from 8 to 10 inches.  Add four inches of leaves or
compost, then mix well.  Make sure there are no clumps in the soil.
Dig the soil when it is moist, not wet or dry.  Put one handful or one
cup of 8-8-8 where the each row will be.  Use one handful for 8 feet
of row.  Make raised beds so the 8-8-8 is under them.
   Plant seeds one-half inch deep and 10 inches apart on the rows.
Plant several short rows side by side instead of one long row.  Ears
will be pollinated better this way.  If you plant one long row, many
ears will be flat or empty on one side.  Side dress the corn with more
fertilizer when it is about one foot high and again when it is about
three feet high.
   You should flood the middles with water any week it doesn't rain.
If you have to use a sprinkler to water, do it in the morning so
plants will dry quickly.  Water the corn until the ground is wet 6 to 8
inches deep.  Good moisture is important, especially when silk is
emerging. 
Harvest sweet corn while the kernels have a milky juice inside                  
when you crush them with a fingernail.  Another way to tell whether
corn may be ready is called the "50 percent silk day."  In this method,
you must check plants daily.  When half the ears have tiny bits of
silk showing, mark the calendar and expect to harvest the crop 21
days later.  It's important to harvest sweet corn at the right time and
cook it as soon as possible after picking.  Once corn is picked, the
sugar in the corn begins to turn to starch, robbing it of its sweet
taste.  Try to cook sweet corn no later than 30 minutes after it is
picked.
   Varieties that do well in Louisiana, in order of maturity, are:
Seneca Star, Sundance, Aztec, Bellringer, Summer Sweets, Florida,
Staysweet, Sweet Time, Sugar Loaf, Kandy Korn, Target A, Merit,
Jubilee, Comet, Lightning, Silver Queen, Gold Queen and Seneca
Sentry.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Sweet Corn in the Home Garden," call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                                
                                he Louisiana Cooperative Extensionseand         
-End-
-Title-
Growing Cucumbers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1716
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1716, "Growing Cucumbers."
   Cucumbers are warm season vegetables that can be grown in the
spring, summer and fall.  Plant seeds after the danger of frost has
passed -- about March 15 in New Orleans.  Cucumbers can be planted
through early September.
   Cucumbers will grow and produce well on just about any soil, but
loose, rich soils are best.  All soils in the New Orleans area are good
for growing cucumbers, but the clay and sandy soils should have
plenty of leaves worked into them for best results with cucumbers and
other crops.
   Loosen the soil with a shovel, and dig as deeply as the shovel will
go.  Add several inches of leaves or compost, then mix well, making
sure no clumps remain.  Work the soil when it's moist, not dry or wet.
Use one handful or one-half cup of 8-8-8 fertilizer for every 10 feet
of row.  Plant on raised beds. Beds should be either three feet to four
feet apart.
   Because cucumbers form vines that run along the ground, they need
more space than many other vegetables.  However, cucumbers can be
grown successfully on a fence or trellis.  You'll have to help them get
attached to the support, but once they're attached they will intertwine
and hold themselves up.  Trellising cucumbers can actually increase
yield and quality over those grown in the ground.
   To plant cucumbers, put two or three seeds in hills 12 inches apart.
As the plants come up, thin them to one plant per hill.  You may
want to try some of the bush varieties sold in seed catalogs.  These
varieties don't grow more than two feet across.  
Because cucumbers must have clean rows to produce well, pull weed               
as soon as you see them.  A thick mulch of leaves will keep most
weeds down, but many gardeners like to use black plastic for mulch
because the soil warms earlier and plants bear fruit earlier.
   Cucumbers are closely related to squash, melons and gourds.  Most
varieties produce separate male and female flowers on the same plants.
Insects such as bees carry pollen from the male flowers and pollinate
the female flowers.  Because of this, you must be careful not to kill
the bees when you use chemicals to kill insects.  So, apply pesticides
late in the afternoon when bees are no longer active.
   Pick cucumbers every other day.  Pick fruit carefully by breaking
it off the vine with your thumb.  Be careful not to step on vines and
leaves.  Old cucumbers left on the vine will reduce later yields, so be
sure to pull them off and discard them.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Growing Cucumbers in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                ce of the Louisiana Cooperativee, so be         
-End-
-Title-
Growing Eggplants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1717
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1717, "Growing Eggplants."
   Eggplants are a warm-season vegetable that require more warmth
than many other vegetables grown in Louisiana.  Eggplants are
sensitive to cool temperatures and frost so, they don't perform well
when they're planted too early while temperatures are too low.  In
fact, the cool weather tends to harden and stunt the eggplants...from
which they recover very slowly.
   The best time to set out your eggplants is when the daily
temperature averages 65-to-70 degrees.  This will be late March in
South Louisiana and about a month later in North Louisiana.
   There are several varieties of eggplants available for you to grow.
They vary in the shape, size and color of the fruit.  The purple-
fruited eggplants that are most popular in Louisiana are Florida Hi
Bush, Royal Knight, Black Beauty, New Orleans Market and Classic.
The variety "green eggplant" is recommended for a green-fruited
variety.  But seed and plants for this variety are difficult to find.
Green-fruited varieties are less bitter under dry conditions than the
purple varieties.  Also, there are some white varieties available.
   Eggplants will get to be fairly large, so you will want to space the
plants about two-to-three feet apart on each row...and the rows should
be at least three feet apart.  Normally, you don't stake eggplants, but
in some cases, where the fruit load is heavy, you may need to give
the plants some support with stakes.
   As for cultivation, you will need only to do shallow cultivation to
control weeds or to work in a side-dressing of fertilizer.  The
herbicide Dacthal can be used to help control weeds in eggplants.
 
Eggplants respond well to fertilizer and organic matter, so work    tot         
plenty of organic matter into the soil before you transplant.  On soils
with medium to low fertility, apply three-to-four pounds of a complete
fertilizer, such as 8-8-8 or 8-24-24, to each 100 feet of row.  You
should do this a week or two before transplanting.  Since eggplants
will be in the garden for a long time, you will need to supply
additional fertilizer, especially nitrogen, about once a month at the
rate of a half-pound ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row.
   Your first eggplants will be ready to pick about 80-to 85 days after
transplanting if the weather is warm enough for the plants to grow as
they should.  Eggplants can be harvested any time they get to be at
least a third of their normal size.  They should be harvested before
the flesh becomes tough and the seeds begin to harden.  The fruit
should still be shiny when you pick it.
   The fruit should be cut from the stems with a sharp knife or
pruning shears so that you don't break the branches of the plant.
   If you don't intend to use the eggplant immediately after you pick
it, store it at about 45-to-50 degrees.
   For for gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Growing Eggplant in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Garlic. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1718
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1718, "Garlic."
   Garlic is one of the easiest crops you can grow.  October and
November are the months to plant garlic bulbs or cloves.
   Varieties grown in Louisiana are the Creole, Tahita, and Italian
varieties.  The Tahita variety produces the largest and mildest bulb.
The Italian is the smallest but the most pungent.  Creole is
intermediate in size and flavor.
   Prepare the rows ahead of time, and apply three to four pounds of
a complete fertilizer for each 100 feet of row.  Plant garlic cloves six
inches apart.  Two or three pounds of garlic bulbs will plant 100 feet
of row.  Place the cloves in the ground with the base pointing
downward -- just like you do for onion sets.  Plant them one to one
and one-half inches deep.
   In late February or early March, sidedress garlic with about one
pound of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row.
   Garlic will be ready to harvest in May or early June as the tops
begin to dry.  With normal production, a home garden can yield a
year's supply for the average family.
   For more garden information and suggestions call the county agent
or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                 office of the Louisiana Cooperativeetix        
-End-
-Title-
Herbs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1719
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1719, "Herbs."
   Herbs are aromatic plants used to flavor foods.  They've been used
for flavor and for medicine since ancient times.  One or more parts of
the plants can be used, including the seeds, fruit, buds, bark, leaves,
stems, or roots.  Many herbs are easy to grow because they are weeds
or weedlike in nature.
   For a small herb garden, choose a well drained area that receives
full sun most of the day.  Some species like little less sunlight.  They
include:  catnip, dill, ginger, mint, tarragon, and thyme.  Group these
plants together in partial shade.
   Prepare the soil as you would for a regular garden.  Build high
rows for good drainage.  Fertilize lightly to moderately with a
complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8.  You may use one cup of 8-8-8 for
each 30 to 40 square feet of plant bed.
   Many herbs are perennial and can survive a light frost or even
winter if they're protected.  These include:  chives, mint, thyme,
tarragon, onions, and sage.  Many more are either annuals or can be
treated as annuals and grown from seed.
   Herbs that are started easily from vegetative parts include:  chives
bulblettes, stem cuttings of thyme, runners of lemon balm, and
cuttings of rosemary, sage, and winter savory.  Mints are aggressive,
and they can be propagated easily from runners or crowns. You may
need to place mint in a barrier to keep it from spreading throughout
the garden. 
When you're planting seeds, cover them lightly with only 1/16 or                
1/8 inch of soil.  You may want to mulch plants which are developing
because many are delicate.  If you grow herbs in containers, use three
parts of garden soil and one part of compost.  Add sand if the garden
soil is heavy.  Because most herbs are grown for their oils, don't
encourage too much growth.  Excessive growth tends to dilute these
oils and make the herbs weak in taste.  So go easy on fertilizers, and
don't overwater.
   Pinching back the bushes will keep the herb plants stockier.  The
fresh, tender leaves that are at or near full maturity will have the
most oils.  So, these are the ones you should harvest.
   A plant's productive period may be extended by pinching off the
flower buds as they begin to develop if vegetative parts are to be
harvested.  Wash plant parts in cold water and dry them quickly in a
dark, airy room.  Harvest seed crops when the seeds are mature --
 usually when their color changes from green to brown or gray.
   After plant parts have been cured and dried, store them in airtight
containers and place them in a darkened cupboard.  Never store herbs
in paper containers, because the containers will absorb a lot of the
oils which contain the herbal flavor.
   Popular herbs that are easy to grow in Louisiana are:  shallots,
chives, garlic, fennel, thyme, dill, sage, rue, basil, oregano, rosemary,
tabasco pepper, parsley, and any of the mints -- including catnip,
peppermint, and spearmint.  Two native species can be found in the
wild:  sassafras and file.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a leaflet
called "Herbs for Louisiana Gardens," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Lettuce. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1721
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1721, "Lettuce."
   Although Louisiana isn't known for lettuce production, you can
grow lettuce in your home garden.  You can choose several types:
head lettuce, semi-head lettuce and leaf lettuce.  Semi-head lettuce
and leaf lettuce grow fastest and are easier to grow.
   All lettuce grows best in a good growing season, but some types
are adapted to more adverse conditions than others.  High
temperatures cause all types of lettuce to go to seed and cause head
lettuce to form a loose head and a bitter taste.
   Semi-head lettuce, in which the base of the head is compact but
the top is open, does well in our growing conditions.  Fall and spring
crops are possible.  The loose, leaf types are the most widely adapted
since they don't form a head.  They require only 50 days from
planting to harvest.
   In South Louisiana, plant lettuce seed in late September and
October for fall production and again in late December and January
for a spring crop.  Head lettuce is best grown only as a fall crop.
Recommended varieties for head lettuce are:  Great Lakes No. 659,
Minetto, Montello, Lake Superior, Imperial No. 847 and Ithaca.
Varieties of semi-head types recommended are:  Buttercrunch, Paris
Island and Summer Bibb.  Leaf types recommended for south Louisiana
are:  Slobolt, Oakleaf, Red Sails and Salad Bowl. 
All lettuce will tolerate frost and light freezes when it's young, but          
may be damaged by a frost or light freeze when near the harvest
stage.  Lettuce is sensitive to highly acid soils, so soils with a pH
below 6.0 should be limed to bring the pH above 6.0.  The fertilizer
requirement is one pound of a complete fertilizer like 8-8-8 for each
25 to 30 feet of row.  Maintain the crop's growth with a sidedressing
of fertilizer three or four weeks after transplanting.
   Lettuce seed may not germinate well at high soil temperatures, so
you might want to chill the lettuce seed in the refrigerator for a few
days before you plant in early fall.  This helps break the seed
dormancy or keeps them from being dormant.
   Plant seed directly in the row and then when they come up, thin
them to about four inches apart for leaf types and 10 to 12 inches
apart for the heading and semi-heading types.  Plants may be produced
in cups, peat pots or flats and transplanted to the garden.  Plant head
lettuce in full sun for proper head development.
   One of the biggest problems when producing head lettuce is the
failure to thin the plants to the proper spacing.  If two or more
plants are allowed to remain where only one should be, or if plants
are too close, the heads will be poorly formed and loose.
   About 80 days are required from planting until head lettuce is
ready to harvest.  The semi-heading types take about 60 to 65 days.
   You can get more information about growing lettuce and other
vegetables from the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Okra. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1723
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-tip number
1723, "Okra."
   Okra is one of the oldest and best known vegetables grown in
southern gardens.  Its popularity probably results from its use in soups
and gumbos and its ability to tolerate a wide range of soil and hot
weather conditions.
   The tough seed coat on okra slows its germination, so you may
want to soak seed overnight before planting. Warm soil is essential for
seed germination.
        Okra can be planted from early April through July.  Prepare
beds a week or two before you plant.  Apply two to three pounds of
8-8-8 or 8-24-24 fertilizer per 100 feet of row.  After harvesting the
first few pods, side-dress the row with one-half to three-fourths pint
of ammonium nitrate or an equivalent source of nitrogen 100 feet a
row.  A second side-dressing may be needed about four to six weeks
after the first one.  If one is needed, use one-half pound of
ammonium nitrate for each 100 feet of row for each side-dressing.
Okra is sensitive to high amounts of nitrogen and it will stop setting
pods if it's over-fertilized.  Be sure to withhold the side-dressing until
fruiting begins.
   Plant okra seed one-half inch deep.  Thin the plants to 12 inches
apart. Keep cultivation shallow--about one inch deep--to remove
competing weeds and to prevent injury to the shallow-growing okra
roots.  To keep old plants vigorous and more manageable, cut plants
back to 12 inches or 18 inches in mid-to-late August and side dress
them with one pound of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row. 
Okra plants that are constantly harvested and cared for will                    
continue to bear until frost.  Harvest pods every other day while they
are tender. If pods are left to mature on the plant, the plants will
stop growing.  Pods that bend without snapping are too tough to eat.
When you're harvesting pods for seed, pick them when thoroughly dry.
   Okra varieties recommended for Louisiana gardens are:  Louisiana
Green Velvet, Annie Oakley, Cajun Queen, Clemson Spineless, Emerald
and Gold Coast.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Onions. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1724
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1724, "Onions."
   If you want large, juicy onions in the spring and early summer,
plant onion seed in late September through about mid-October.  Onion
sets, or transplants, can be set out from mid-December through the
end of January.
   Onion seed planted in late September and mid-October will produce
a plant that is able to withstand the winter cold.  Seed planted later
than mid-October will be more susceptible to cold damage because
they'll be in a more immature stage of development.
   Onions that are seeded at the proper time during the fall or
transplanted in mid-winter will form a bulb the following spring when
the days become longer and warmer.
   Onion seeds have a hard seed coat.  Plant them shallowly, about
one-eighth inch deep and keep the soil moist.
   You may want to cover the seed with a light weight potting soil,
compost, vermiculite or similar material.  Keep the soil moist so the
seed coat will soften and the seed will germinate.  It may take up to
two weeks for the seed to germinate.  Seeds can be drilled in the row
and then thinned to the desired three to four inches between plants.
Or, they can be planted thickly in a bed and then transplanted to a
row.
   Onions can be planted in a highly concentrated area.  In fact,
several drills of onions can be planted on one row.  About four to six
inches on all sides of an onion plant are sufficient for it to grow
normally. 
Soil on which onions are to be grown should be fertilized with                  
three to four pounds of a complete fertilizer per 100 feet of row
several days before seeding in the fall or transplanting in the winter.
As the time of the average last frost date nears in the spring,
sidedress them with about one pound of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet
of row.
   This sidedressing will encourage more leaf growth and result in
larger bulbs when bulbing begins.
   Several varieties of onions are recommended for Louisiana, but the
Red Creole is the most popular variety, probably because it keeps well
after harvest.  Other recommended varieties are:  Excel, Grano,
Crystal Wax and Burgundy, a sweet purple onion.
   To help control weeds, apply the herbicide Dacthal after planting
the seed or transplants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                parish office of the Louisianantyingll.         
-End-
-Title-
Growing Peanuts. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1725
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1725, "Growing Peanuts."
   The peanut is a hot season vegetable that is easy to grow in a
home garden.  Because peanuts do best during a long, hot growing
season, plant them from April until early June.  The seeds are shelled
and planted about 1 to 1+ inches deep, with about four or five seeds
for each foot of row.
   Peanuts need a well-drained, light, sandy soil with plenty of
organic matter.  The soil should be loose, not clayish and hard.  Soils
in the New Orleans area are excellent for peanut production, but they
can be improved by adding leaves, compost or well-rotted manure.  On
heavy, clay-type soils, add plenty of sand to keep the soil from
compacting.
   Because peanuts can find enough fertilizer left over from other
crops, they can be planted in April after winter greens and you may
not have to add fertilizer.  Don't plant them after Southern peas or
beans though.   If you're planting peanuts on a new row in the
garden, put down only one-half cup or one-half handful of 8-8-8
fertilizer for each 10 feet of row.  Peanuts need calcium in the top
three to four inches of soil where pods develop.  Without calcium,
nuts will not fill out.  Gypsum (calcium sulfate) can be applied when
the peanuts flower to supply needed calcium.  Have a soil test run to
see if you need extra calcium or put down about one cup of gypsum
for each 10 feet of row.  Never put down lime without a soil test
because too much lime can make your soil too sweet for peanut
production. 
To prepare your soil for peanuts, loosen it with a shovel as deep               
as you can.  Add four inches of compost or leaves and mix well with
soil.  Make sure no clumps remain.  Work soil when it's moist, not
wet or dry.  Apply one-half handful or one-half cup of 8-8-8 fertilizer
for every 10 feet of row.  Make raised beds so the 8-8-8 is under
them.  Place beds three feet apart.  Let them settle for a week and
then plant seeds one inch deep, with about 4 seeds for each foot of
row.  Allow only two or three plants per foot to remain.
   Cultivation to control weeds should be shallow to prevent damage
to peanuts because they develop near the soil surface.  Applying one
to two inches of well-rotted compost as a mulch will help keep weeds
out, but you'll need to hand-pull any small weeds as they appear.
Leaves that have not been composted can be used as a mulch, but
they're not as good as well-rotted compost.  Don't use plastic or
newspaper mulch because the small fruit cannot go through them to
enter the soil.
   When flowers appear on the plants about six to eight weeks after
planting they are on stems above the ground.  As the flowers fade,
the stem begins to stretch downward, carrying with them part of the
flower that will become the peanut.  Don't let peanuts dry out during
flowering.  Water them weekly until the soil is soaked six to eight
inches deep.  Flooding the middles is the best way to water, but you
can use a sprinkler if you water in the morning.  If peanuts are
allowed to dry out at any time after flowering, the plants will make
fewer peanuts.  But don't overwater.  This can cause the nuts to
sprout in the ground.  Nuts will also sprout in the ground if there is
too much rain right before harvest. 
Peanuts are ready for harvest from 120 to 150 days after planting.              
As the older plants begin to yellow, they should be dug and left to
dry upside down on the row for a day or two.  If it's rainy, dry them
is an airy place out of the rain.  When the nuts are dry, pull them
from the pegs and store them.  If you want to boil peanuts, do so
right after digging, before much drying occurs.
   There are four general types of peanuts:  Virginia, Runner, Spanish
and Valencia.  Virginia and Runner are bushy and have two large
seeds per pod.  Spanish and Valencia are mostly erect and have small
seeds.
   You can get more information about growing peanuts from the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Southern Peas. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1726
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1726, "Southern Peas."
   Southern peas are also called cowpeas, field peas, purple hulls and
crowders.  The crop is popular in Louisiana, perhaps because it
produces large amounts of an edible product on a fairly small space,
and it's easy to produce. Peas are high in nutrients, especially protein,
and they are easy to can or freeze.
   The southern pea group contains several types of plant, pod and
seed color characteristics.  The main ones are the blackeye types, the
purple hull types and the cream types.  Within each type, there can be
crowders.  This means simply that the seeds are crowded together in
the pod.
   Southern peas grow best in warm weather, so delay spring plantings
until the soil has warmed to 60 degrees or more for several days in a
row. Southern peas are subject to root rots in cold, wet soils.  After
the soil has warmed to a suitable temperature, you can plant through
the first week of August.  Staggered planting dates will give you a
longer harvest period.
   Southern peas have the ability to capture atmospheric nitrogen and
convert it into a form the plant can use.  Because of this ability, you
can fertilize it sparingly and with a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 8-
24-24.  Don't apply more than three pounds of a complete fertilizer
for each 100 feet of row. On highly fertile river bottom soils, you'll
need little or no fertilizer. Overfertilization will cause Southern peas
to make a lot of vine and few pods.
   Southern peas may also be grown to improve soil fertility and
structure. When peas are grown for this purpose, work the plants into
the soil when they begin to bloom.               Varieties that are
recommended for home gardens in the New Orleans area are:  Pinkeye
Purple Hull, Calhoun Purple Hull, Jackson Purple Hull, Mississippi
Purple, Mississippi Silver, Louisiana Green, Magnolia Blackeye and
Colossus.  The Mississippi Purple and Mississippi Silver are crowder
types.
   You can use Southern peas dry or fresh.  They also make an
excellent frozen or canned vegetable.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Peppers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/8/82 (Koske)
Area:  New Orleans Only

                           Tele-Tip 1728
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1728,
"Peppers."
   Peppers are a popular crop in the home garden.  They are high in
vitamin C, low in calories and are a tasty seasoning.  Because peppers
like warm soil, set out transplants about 10 days later than you set
out tomato transplants.  In New Orleans, this will be in March.  Hot
peppers like even warmer soils, so set them out a week to 10 days
later than you set out sweet peppers.
   You'll need to develop well-hilled, high rows for good drainage and
aeration.  Before planting, chop in one pound of 8-8-8 fertilizer for 25
feet of row.  Use about one-third less fertilizer for hot peppers.  To
extend the growing season, sidedress fertilizer at first fruit set and
about every four weeks thereafter.  Be careful not to over-fertilize,
especially if soil is rich.  Over-fertilizing will cause flower drop and
loss of fruit set.  Hot summer weather will cause flower drop, too,
along with the formation of small, distorted fruit.  Don't let the
peppers develop until the bush has gained some size or it may not
grow any larger.  You may need to pinch off a few of the peppers and
sidedress once...until the bush gets a little larger.
   You can harvest sweet peppers at any stage of growth.  They are
still good to eat after they turn red.  Some varieties are yellow or
golden.  Pick hot peppers when they have turned to the desired color
for that variety.  There are many good sweet peppers and good hot
peppers that come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors.
 
For sweet peppers, choose Keystone Resistant Giant, Resistant   tlor and,       
Florida Giant, Emerald Giant, Bell Boy, Yolo Wonder or the Gypsy
hybrid.  For hot peppers, choose Tabasco, Hot Banana, Spirit, Cayenne,
Chili, Jalapeno, Ancho or Goldspike.  Tabasco is the hottest.
   Insects aren't always a problem in peppers, but if your peppers are
infested with the common aphid, use malathion for control.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Plant Peppers," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
-End-
-Title-
Spring Irish Potatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1729
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1729, "Spring Irish Potatoes."
   Spring Irish potatoes can and should be planted anytime from the
last week in January to the end of February.  The varieties
recommended for Louisiana gardens are Red LaSoda, La Rouge, and a
white skinned variety named LaChipper.  Each of these was developed
by LSU especially for Louisiana growing conditions.
   Potatoes grow best on a well-drained soil that is rich in organic
matter.  They respond well to a generous application of fertilizer,
especially on soils that aren't very fertile.
   A good, general fertilization is about five to six pounds of a
complete fertilizer on each 100 feet of row.  A complete fertilizer is
one like 8-8-8 or 8-24-24.  After the plants get to be six to ten
inches tall you can apply what is called a "side dressing" of nitrogen.
You will want to use about one pound of ammonium nitrate on each
100 feet of row.
   When you're preparing your garden for potatoes you should build a
high bed so the water will drain well and so you will have some loose
soil for the potatoes to go in.  Build your rows about three feet apart.
   As you get ready to plant, cut your seed potatoes into pieces about
the size of an egg and be sure each piece has at least one eye.  The
eye is where the plant gets its start.
   If the temperature of your soil is below 65 degrees, hold the cut
potatoes at room temperature for three or four days.  This will
encourage wound tissue to form over the cuts and this will help
protect them from diseases after they are planted. 
When you plant the seed, space them about 12 to 15 inches apart                 
in the row.  At this rate you will be able to plant a hundred foot row
with between seven and nine pounds of potatoes.  Plant the seed
pieces four or five inches deep.
   You should begin to see plants break through the soil in three or
four weeks and then in about 90 to 110 days from the time you
planted the seed you should be able to dig your potatoes.  As the
potatoes grow, avoid deep cultivation around them because you could
easily damage your potatoes.
   As the plants approach maturity, their leaves will turn yellow and
die.  Another sign off maturity is what's called the "setting of the
skin"...that is, the skin of the potatoes doesn't slip when you rub it
with your thumb.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Irish Potatoes in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                ce of the Louisiana Cooperativetheb it          
-End-
-Title-
Sweet Potatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1731
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1731, "Sweet Potatoes."
   The sweet potato, or yam, is a popular vegetable...especially in the
South.  Sweet potato plants grow best on coarse soil of low to medium
fertility. Soils that are too fertile have a tendency to produce too
much vine and few potatoes.  Sweet potato plants can be transplanted
in Louisiana from May through June.  They will be ready to harvest
about 120 days from the time they are transplanted.
   Grow sweet potatoes on rows spaced at least 36 inches apart,
preferably wider.  Space plants within the row about 12 inches apart.
Because this crop doesn't need much fertilizer, about two or three
pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or 8-24-24 for each one-
hundred feet of row is enough.  You won't need to sidedress sweet
potatoes.
   To transplant sweet potatoes, build a high row.  About every 12
inches, make a hole in the row and place the sweet potato transplant
about three or four inches deep.  Add water to the hole and fill the
hole with soil.  Keep the soil moist, but not too wet, during the first
few weeks.  After the plants are established, they can withstand a
little drought stress.  And, while under stress, they will begin to set
the roots which will become the edible roots. After drought stress,
begin watering to encourage vine growth and the production of roots.
   As the plants mature, vines will turn yellow.  After about 100 to
110 days, begin digging a few hills to see if there is a good supply of
large roots If the crop stays in the ground, the potatoes will continue
to grow.  Be sure to harvest before frost.  A frost can damage the
vines and roots, result in poor storage and reduce the eating quality
of the crop.
 
After harvest, keep sweet potatoes in a warm moist place for about   ue         
a week.  This process helps heal areas on the root that were injured
during harvest.  It also encourages the starch in the root to become
sugar, making the sweet potatoes taste better.  The best quality sweet
potatoes are those that have been harvested at least four to six weeks
   If you want to store sweet potatoes for several weeks or months,
keep them in a cool, moist place at a temperature between 50-60
degrees Fahrenheit.  Be sure not to refrigerate them and protect them
from freezing temperatures.  Properly cured and stored sweet potatoes
will keep for several months.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Sweet Potatoes in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                ce of the Louisiana Cooperativetheoesse         
-End-
-Title-
Pumpkins and Winter Squash. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1732
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1732, "Pumpkins and Winter Squash."
   If you're considering winter squash or pumpkins for your home
garden, the first decision you'll need to make is whether or not
there's enough room.
   Neither fits well into the average size urban garden because the
plants become too large.
   If your decisons is to plant, then you've selected an easy to grow
crop that fairs well in a variety of soils.
   Although they're known as winter squash, this type of hard skin
squash, along with pumpkins, can be planted either in late Spring or
early Fall.  Those planted in the Spring need to be used several weeks
after picking because the quality deteriorates more quickly than those
grown in the Fall.  The late Spring planting date runs the entire
month of April, while the early Fall date lasts from July to September,
depending on the length of maturity time needed for the variety
selected.
   The pumpkin varieties recommended by the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service are Howden, Autumn Gold, Spirit, Funny Face,
Jackpot, Small Sugar and the fine quality cushaw pumpkins.  For
minature pumpkins, select Jack-be-Little or Munchkin varieties.
   Pumpkins and winter squash prefer loose, well-drained organic soil,
however they fare well in almost any soil that is re-worked with
compost and fertilizer.  For sandy or clayish soil, dig the beds to the
depth of your shovel blade, break up all clumps of dirt and mix four
inches of compost into the soil. 
Spacing between hills and rows will depend on the type of plant                 
selected.  Bush varieties are popular for smaller gardens because they
require less space than vine plants.  Three feet is the number to
remember when you're planting bush varieties.  Allow three feet
between rows and plant two or three seed in hills spaced three feet
apart.  Add a handful of 8-8-8 fertilizer for every 10 feet of row.
   For vine plants, use beds six feet wide, plant 2 or 3 seed in hills
four feet apart and use a cup or handful of 8-8-8 fertilizer for every
10 feet of row.  Side-dress with the same fertilizer when the bush
plants reach a foot in height and when the vine variety lays down and
begins to run.
   Although pumpkins and winter squash can be harvested while tender
and cooked like summer squash, it's best if they're allowed to mature
to a tough skin on the vine.  A harder skin will allow the fruit to
store better.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Squash and Pumpkins in the Home Garden," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Radishes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1733
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1733, "Radishes."
   Radishes are easy to grow.  They're productive, they grow quickly
in cool weather and they can be ready to eat only 30 days after you
plant them.  Radishes are excellent for an intermediate crop.  Grow
them in the fall and again in early spring.
   You can choose from many varieties.  Radishes come in all shapes,
sizes, and colors.  Some are round and some are long, like icicles.
The "winter" type radishes are usually quite large and have a long
growing season through the cold, winter months.  Popular radish
varieties for Louisiana include Summer Cross, Champion, Sparkler,
White Icicle, Scarlet Globe and Scarlet Turnip White Tip.
   In the New Orleans Area, you can plant radishes from October
through February.  Radishes will get hot and stringy when they're old
and when they're grown in hot weather.
   For high quality radishes, work the soil six to eight inches deep.
Make sure the seed bed is relatively free from stones, clods and other
debris.  Don't use too much compost.  Fresh manure, in particular, will
cause your radishes to scab and be of poor quality
   Work one pound of a complete fertilizer, such as 8-24-24, into each
20 feet of row.  Or use 8-8-8 fertilizer.  If the soil doesn't drain
well, build high rows to improve drainage.  Choose an area that gets
full sun, if possible, and plant the seeds about one-fourth inch deep.
 
One ounce of radish seed contains about 2,000 seed and will plant a   l         
row from 80 to 100 feet long.  After the plants come up, thin them so
that they're about one inch apart.  Be careful not to disturb the root
system of adjacent plants.
   Most gardeners like to have a continuous supply of radishes during
the season rather than one large harvest.  To accomplish this, you
need to plant a few feet of row at a time...one or two weeks
apart...during the growing season.
   Water the radishes or they will stop growing.  If aphids or plant
lice appear, control them with malathion sprays.  Harvest radishes
when they're ready...before they get hot.  They will keep for quite a
while in the crisper of the your refrigerator.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Shallots. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1735
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1735, "Shallots."
   If you'd like to have a supply of green onions almost year round,
grow shallots in your garden.  Shallots, a member of the onion family,
have the ability of dividing into a clump of several plants from one
bulb or set.
   For fall planting, use the dry sets.  These are generally available
at local garden centers or seed stores.  Plant the dry sets in August
and September.  They'll be ready to harvest in 50 to 60 days.  Dry
sets can be planted at any time from August through April, however.
   Before planting, fertilize the rows at the rate of 3 to 4 pounds
with a complete fertilizer, such as 8-8-8, per 100 feet of row.
Sidedress with one-half pound of ammonium nitrate when the plants
are about six inches tall.
   Space shallots about six to eight inches apart within the row, and
plant the dry bulbs one inch deep.  Keep the soil moist to encourage
sprouting.
   To harvest shallots, you may cut the green shoots or leaves off and
use them, or you may pull the entire plant.  When the green leaves
are cut, new growth will start and be ready to harvest again in
several weeks.
   If the entire clump is harvested, you need to replant several of the
individual plants.  They will divide and make more plants.  This will
continue all winter and spring, so you'll have shallots into late spring.
   As the days become longer and warmer, the bulbs will swell.  Then
the tops will turn brown and die.  After the tops have died down
completely, dig the clumps of bulbs and let them dry.  Store them in a
dry place so you can plant them next fall.  The Summergreen variety,
however, will remain green and multiply all summer, making shallots
available all year.                              Several varieties are
available, but the most popular variety in Louisiana is Bonheur.
   For more gardening information and suggestions call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension service.

-End-
-Title-
Vegetable Soybeans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1736
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1736, "Vegetable Soybeans."
   Rising food prices have fostered a lot of interest in soybeans.
Soybeans are high in protein, minerals and vitamins, so they can be
substituted in part for higher priced meats and fish.  Whole soybeans
have a high oil content, but it is mostly removed in the manufacturing
process for soybean products.
   Soybeans are easy to grow.  Insect and disease problems are seldom
severe.  Grow soybeans where you've had success with snap beans and
sweet corn.  You'll be able to grow both field and vegetable varieties,
but green vegetable varieties are preferred because of their larger
seed size, their tenderness and flavor.
   Most seed catalogs feature vegetable soybean seed in packet sizes
for home gardeners.  Available varieties will include Disoy, Kanrich,
Verde and others.  Kanrich and Verde are particularly good as fresh
green vegetables.
   Soybeans prefer sandy loam soils, but they can be grown on heavier
textured soils if drainage is adequate.  Soil pH should be 6.0 to 7.0.
A moderately fertile soil is best.  Too much nitrogen may delay pod
formation.  In non-manured gardens, use about a pound of 6-24-24
fertilizer for 100 feet of row.  Apply the fertilizer evenly down the
center of the row and work it into the soil.  Overfertilization will
cause blossoms to drop before fruit is set.
   Plant the crop in rows 28 to 32 inches apart.  Space seed four to
five inches apart in the row and plant them one inch deep.  For a
succession of crops, plant soybeans at 10-day intervals beginning in
April and continuing through June.  Fresh green beans should be ready
for eating about two months after seeding. 
Control weeds by cultivating shallowly soon after seedlings emerge.             
Continue cultivation throughout the growing season if necessary.
Insect and disease problems will be similar to those affecting snap
beans and lima beans, so use the same control measures.  Rabbits like
soybeans, and you may need to fence them out.
   Soybeans are ready for harvest when the pods are plump and the
seeds have just reached full size, but are still completely green.  Pods
at this stage are green or just turning yellowish-green.  Don't delay
harvesting until the beans begin to dry.  This will reduce their
tenderness.  You can pick the pods in the garden or cut the plants off
and remove the pods elsewhere.
   Pods are shelled best by pouring boiling water over them or by
blanching.  Let them remain in the hot water for about five minutes,
then drain and cool.  Break the pods crosswise and squeeze the beans
out.  Cook them like you cook fresh peas or lima beans.  Soybeans do
not soften like peas or limas, however, and will retain a nutty texture.
One caution, don't eat soybeans before they're cooked, they're mildly
harmful when large amounts are eaten raw.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Profitable Soybean Production in the 80's," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                n your parish office of the Louisianare.        
-End-
-Title-
Spinach. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1737
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1737, "Spinach."
   If you like to garden year-round, plant spinach for the cold
weather months.  Plant spinach in October and you can harvest it
through the winter and into spring if it's maintained properly.
   A relative of beets and Swiss chard, spinach is a hardy, cool
season crop that can survive temperatures of 20 degree Fahrenheit
without injury.  On the other hand, high temperatures and long days
cause spinach to bolt to seed, making it less desirable.  In general, it
is a short season crop, maturing in about six to ten weeks, depending
on planting dates and climate.
   Spinach is very sensitive to strongly acid soils --- that is, soils
with a pH below 5.5  On strongly acid soils, it will be stunted and
yield little or nothing.  For satisfactory growth, add lime to the soil
to bring the pH to at least 6.0.
   Recommended varieties are:  Hybrid #7, Virginia Savoy Hybrid,
Broadleaf Flanders and Bloomsdale.
   To fertilize spinach, apply three to four pounds of a complete
fertilizer like 8-24-24 or 8-8-8 per 100 feet of row.  Apply several
days before planting.  Sidedress with about 1/2 pound of ammonium
nitrate for each 100 feet of row about one month after planting.
   The seeding rate is about 1/4 ounce of seed for a 100 foot row.
The seedling will look like a beet when it sprouts.  Thin the plants to
about six inches apart within the row.  Plants pulled in thinning can
be used for transplanting.  If you have trouble getting spinach seed to
germinate, mix the seed with a moistened potting soil and pre-
germinate them in a can or jar for two or three days, then plant them
in the row. 
When you're harvesting spinach, cut the whole plant at the soil                 
level.  If you want a second harvest, cut the plant just above the soil
line and the plant will renew its growth.  As soon as three or four
leaves appear after the first cutting, cut the plant back again.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                parish office of the Louisianauntyrsoil         
-End-
-Title-
Summer Squash. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1738
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1738, "Summer Squash."
   Summer squash are harvested when they are young and tender.
These warm-season vegetables can be grown in the spring and early
fall.  They are easy to grow, very productive and fit well into urban
gardens.  You'll need to plant only two plants for each person in your
family.
   Most summer squash are bushy.  The yellow butter types come in
straight neck or crookneck varieties.  Recommended straight neck
varieties include Goldbar, Butterbar, Golden Girl and Slendergold.
Patty Pans are shaped like tops and have scalloped edges.
   Summer squash thrives in soil that is well drained, loose and high
in organic matter, but it will grow in almost any soil that is well
prepared.  Soils in the New Orleans area are ideal.  The clay and
sandy soils should have lots of leaves or compost worked into them to
make them loose and able to hold on to the fertilizer you apply.
Work the soil when it's moist, not wet or dry.  Be sure to break all
clumps.
   Loosen soil with a shovel and go down 8 to 10 inches.  Add a
four-inch layer of leaves, and use the shovel to mix leaves with the
soil.  Apply one cup or one handful of 8-8-8 fertilizer for every 10
feet of row.  Rows should be three feet wide.  Sidedress the plants
when they are about a foot tall for bushy types, or when they begin
to lay down and run for vining types.  Use one-half teaspoon of
ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate per plant, and water it in
well.  Sidedress again about a month later. 
Plant a few seeds every three feet on rows three feet apart.  When              
they come up, thin plants so there are only one or two plants every
three feet.  Pick fruit regularly to keep plants producing well.  Don't
wait longer than two or three days between pickings.
   Cultivate often and shallowly to control weeds.  Or, better still,
use black plastic mulch in the spring and use leaves in the fall.  Few
weeds will emerge, and you'll have less work.
   Summer squash are kin to cucumbers, watermelons and gourds.
They produce both male and female flowers on the same plant.  Honey
bees carry pollen from the male flowers to pollinate the female
flowers, so don't kill bees.  If you use Sevin to control chewing
insects, use it late in the afternoon when bees have stopped flying.
Sevin kills bees, too.  You may want to switch to Thiodan.  It kills
fewer bees but is hard to find in small packages.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Squash and Pumpkins in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Swiss Chard. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1739
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1739, "Swiss Chard."
   Swiss chard can be grown easily in most gardens.  This green, cold
season vegetable has good heat resistance, too, so it's really a year-
round vegetable.
   Seeds or young plants can be planted in the fall, early winter, late
winter and spring.  Chard will produce fresh greens even through the
summer.  It's an excellent choice for small gardens.
   The large, fleshy leaf stalks can be white or red, with broad, crisp,
green leaf blades.  The leaf blades can be cooked like spinach or
other greens, and the midribs or stalks can be cooked like asparagus.
In many ways, Swiss chard is similar to Chinese cabbage.  It's an
attractive plant and can be planted in ornamental flowerbeds because
it's so pretty.  But, if you want Swiss chard, you'll have to grow it.
It's not available in most markets.
   To extend the harvest of Swiss chard, pick only the recently
matured leaves instead of the entire plant.  A combination of Swiss
chard and collards in your garden will give you greens all year.
   Soil preparation and fertilization of Swiss chard are easy.  Loosen
the soil with a shovel.  Dig 8 to 10 inches deep, or as deep as the
shovel will go.  Add a four-inch layer of leaves and mix it with the
soil, using the shovel.  Be sure to break up all clumps.  Work the soil
when it is moist, not too wet or dry.

 
Put down a handful or one cup of 8-8-8 fertilizer for each 10 feet   il,        
of row.  Put it where the rows will be and rake up the row on top of
it.  Make raised beds so that the 8-8-8 is under them.  Make rows
three feet wide.  Sidedress the plants when they are about 6 to 8
inches tall, using one-half teaspoon of ammonium nitrate or ammonium
sulfate for each plant.  Water it in well.  Sidedress regularly, about
every four to six weeks.  This will keep plants growing well for a
long time.
   Plant seeds thick, then cook the greens that you thin out.  Seeds
do best if they're planted about one-fourth to one-half inch deep,
with about 8 to 10 seeds per foot.  After thinning, the young plants
should be about 9 to 12 inches apart.  If you're setting out
transplants, space them about 9 to 12 inches apart.
   The best way to harvest Swiss chard is to "crop" it, which is
cutting off only the outer leaves about one inch above the ground
while they are young and tender.  It's best to cut chard.  Pulling the
leaves can damage the entire plant.  The entire plants are harvested
only during the thinning stage, when they're only 6 to 8 inches tall.
   Cultivate often and shallowly.  Better still, control weeds by using
mulches:  Leaves, thick layers of newspapers or other organic mulches.
If a few weeds come up, you can pull them while they're still small.
   If you're thinking of planting Swiss chard this year, consider these
varieties:  Red Mid-rib, Burgundy, Ruby, Rhubard, White Mid-rib,
Fordhook Giant, Geneve, Large White Broad-rib and Perpetual.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Tomatoes, Spring or Fall. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           Tele-Tip 1741
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1741, "Tomatoes, Spring or Fall."
   Tomatoes are excellent vegetables for gardeners.  Only a few, well-
cared for plants will produce tomatoes for a long time.  You'll need
only two or three plants for each member in the family.  One plant
can produce five or six pounds of fruit.
   Tomatoes are cool season  but tender vegetables, so plant them
after danger of frost has passed -- late February in the New Orleans
area.  For a fall garden, plant the seeds or root suckers again in late
July.  A spring plant can be kept alive to bear again in the fall, but
it's better to replant in July.
   Tomatoes need a well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter.
New Orleans soils are excellent for tomato production.  The clay-type
soils and the sandy soils can be improved by adding generous amounts
of leaves, compost or well-rotted manure to them.  This organic
matter will help keep the soil loose and make it able to hold onto the
fertilizer you apply.  Also, as it breaks down, the organic matter
provides some fertilizer at a slow rate.
   Loosen the soil with a shovel.  Go as deep as the shovel will go --
 8 to 10 inches.  Add a four-inch layer of leaves, mix them with the
soil, and break up all clumps.  Work when the soil is moist, not wet
or dry.  Put down one handful or one cupful of 8-8-8 fertilizer for
each 10 feet of row.  Apply fertilizer where you will build rows.
Make raised beds so that the 8-8-8 is under them.  Plant seeds one-
half inch deep and then thin the plants so that they're spaced about
one-and-a-half to two feet apart in the row.  When the first tomatoes
begin to swell, sidedress with one teaspoon of ammonium nitrate or
ammonium sulfate per plant.  Repeat every three or four weeks.
 
If you're using transplants, set them out carefully.  If you use   es-e,        
black plastic as a mulch, just punch or cut a hole in the plastic and
set the plants in place.  Firm the soil around roots.  If the
transplants are too tall, remove the leaves from the lower one-third of
the stem and bury the stem horizonally two inches deep.
   Stake plants upright with five-or six-foot stakes while they are
still small.  Fasten the vines to the stakes by looping the vines with
cloth or cord.  Don't use string and don't bind the vines.  Prune side
branches to a height of one to two feet.  Then, let them bush.
   Water is important for tomato production.  Water your tomatoes
every five to eight days if they don't get at least an inch of rain per
week.  It's best to water by flooding the middles.  If you must water
with a sprinkler, water early in the morning so plants will dry quickly.
   Tomatoes come in several sizes, shapes and colors, depending on
the variety.  Some varieties can develop large fruit under favorable
conditions.  Others, such as the small cherry or patio tomatoes,
develop only small fruit.  These small fruited varieties set better
during the hot months.
   The best varieties for Louisiana are:  Champion, Pole King,
Fantastic, Terrific, Monte Carlo, Pelican, Better Boy, Traveler 76,
Creole, Jet Star, Supersonic B, Floralou, Floradel, Spring Giant,
Floramerica.  For canning, plant Chico III and Saladette.  All of these
varieties produce red fruit with the exception of Traveler, which
produces pink fruit.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called, "Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden," call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Tomato Leaf Roll. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/18/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1745
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1745,
"Tomato Leaf Roll."
   Tomato leaf roll is a common problem that may occur every year.
It is characterized by an upward rolling of leaflets of older leaves.
The rolled leaves are firm, leathery and almost brittle to the touch.
From 50 to 75 percent of the foliage may be affected.
   Plant growth is not affected noticeably and a normal crop of
tomatoes is produced.  The main disadvantage of plants affected by
leaf curl is that fruit are more exposed to the sun and may sunscald.
   The problem itself is physiological and scientists don't know what
causes the disorder.  Once suckering or pruning begins, the leaves
begin to curl.  Prune these plants less.  The greater the fruit load,
the more severe the problem can be.  Usually the varieties that are
not pruned, or those with light fruit load do not curl, but there are
exceptions.  To help prevent the disorder, keep up good soil moisture
in dry weather.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Greens. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1747
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1747, "Greens."
   Greens are popular vegetables for home garden.  They are easy to
grow and produce a good return for the amount of space they occupy.
Here are the greens that can be planted in the fall...mustard, collards,
spinach, kale, and turnip.
   A short, but active, growing season characterizes most greens.
Rapid growth occurs if greens have a good supply of plant nutrients
and ample moisture.
   Since each of these vegetables -- except spinach -- is small-seeded,
you will need to prepare a good seed bed to insure good contact
between the soil and the seed.  Mustard and turnip seed may be
broadcast over the bed and raked in or planted in several drills on the
row.  If plants are too crowded, thin them.  Use the thinned plants as
greens.
   Kale, which is like collards but smaller, should be spaced about six
inches apart at its final thinning.  Space spinach about about three or
four inches apart.
   Greens will grow on a fairly wide range of soil pH.  On extremely
acid soil, add enough lime to bring the pH to 6.0.  Fertilize these
crops at the rate of three or four pounds of a complete fertilizer for
each 100 feet of row on soils of medium to low fertility.
   On highly fertile soils, you may need to apply only one-half pound
of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row.  If plant leaves begin to
yellow, sidedress again with one-half pound of ammonium nitrate per
100 feet or row.
   For tender greens, harvest when the leaves are young. 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county                 
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Melons, How To Pick. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Koske)

Area:  State



                           Tele-Tip 1749

   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1749,
"Melons, How To Pick."

   Sometimes it's hard to decide when to harvest cantaloupes and
watermelons.  Nothing is more disappointing than to pull a melon
from a vine and find that it isn't ripe.  Once the melon is pulled
from the vine, flavor will improve little, if any.  So, to get the
greatest satisfaction from growing melons, you'll need to learn when
to harvest them.

   Here are a few things to look for.  These characteristics, plus
experience, will help you learn how to determine the maturity of
cantaloupes and watermelons.

   As cantaloupes approach maturity, the amount of corky netting
increases and the netting is not rubbed off easily.  The color under
the netting changes from green to yellow or grey.  The melon will
have a stronger odor.  The most reliable clue of ripeness is that
the stem of the cantaloupe separates easily from the fruit with
slight pressure.  If possible, don't water cantaloupes or
watermelons the last seven to ten days before you plan to harvest
them.  Withholding water right before harvest increases the sugar
content and sweetness of the melons.  Also, hope for a dry week.
   To determine ripeness in watermelons, first check size.  You'll
need to know the approximate size for the variety.  The color of the
"ground spot" or underside of the melon which rests on the ground is
the most reliable sign.  When the ground spot turns from white to
cream or light yellow, the melon is ripe.  Other tests -- such as
thumping melons or dryness of vines -- are not reliable unless
you're an expert.  If you plan to use melons at once, press them on
the side with your hand.  A sharp, cracking sound inside the melon
indicates maturity.  Ripe melons also take on a dull look, becoming
slightly rough and bumpy to the touch.

   You might keep in mind that it's almost as bad to leave the
melons on the vine too long at it is to pick them too soon.

   These clues, plus experience, will help you know when your melons
are ripe.

   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

                               
-End-
-Title-
Black Plastic Mulch. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Cannon)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1752
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1752,
"Black Plastic Mulch."
   Using black plastic as a mulch in home vegetable gardens can help
cut the amount of work involved in producing vegetables.  The
strawberry growers in Louisiana were among the first farmers to begin
using black plastic as a mulch and a labor-saving device.
   Black plastic mulch offers several advantages.  First, it helps to
control weeds and grasses because it keeps sunlight from reaching
them.  It helps to conserve soil moisture, too.  It does this by
reducing the evaporation of moisture from the soil.  Black plastic
mulch also helps to conserve plant nutrients by preventing them from
leaching through the soil.  Also, good soil structure is maintained
because crusting and compacting of soil are prevented.  And, because
you don't have to cultivate close to the plants, injury to plant roots
in avoided.
   Plastic mulch also helps to prevent fruit rots on crops like
tomatoes and cucumbers whose fruit may otherwise touch the soil.
Another advantage offered by black plastic is that it absorbs heat and,
in early spring, raises the soil temperature 3 to 5 degrees.  This can
mean earlier yields in many cases.
   A disadvantage of plastic mulch is that nutgrass or coco grass will
grow right through it, leading to an even greater infestation of this
pest.
   If you plan to use black plastic mulch in your vegetable garden, be
sure rows are prepared, fertilized and moist enough for planting before
you put the plastic in place. 
The most common width of plastic mulch for home gardens is three                
feet, but it comes as wide as five feet.  To begin laying the plastic
mulch, dig a trench along each side of the row.  Roll the plastic down
the row, placing the edges of the plastic in the trench.  Place the soil
back in the trench on the edge of the plastic to hold it down.
   When you're ready to plant, cut slits or punch holes in the mulch
at the desired intervals.  Dig a hole of adequate size for transplants.
Or, if seeds are to be planted, work soil up in the opening and plant
them.
   Vegetables that have been grown successfully on black plastic
mulch are:  tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, squash, cucumbers,
watermelons, and cantaloupes.
   To add more fertilizer, especially nitrogen sidedressing, either
punch holes between the plants and place one or two teaspoons in
each hole--or sidedress in the middles of the rows, work it in lightly,
then irrigate.
   When irrigation is necessary after planting, dam up the ends of the
rows and flood the middles.  This will allow the water to soak under
the plastic.  Don't let the soil under the plastic dry out before you
decide to irrigate.  It's hard to get the soil moist again after it drys
out.  A practical way of irrigating under the plastic mulch has been
developed.  Called "trickle" irrigation, it consists of watering with a
hose in which small holes have been made.  The hose is put in place
before the plastic is secured to the rows.
   Again, much of the hard work of vegetable gardening can be
reduced by using black plastic mulch.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                he LSU Cooperative Extension Service. as        
-End-
-Title-
Building a Compost. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/29/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1753
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1753,
"Building a Compost."
   Many home gardeners in Louisiana have trouble getting the best
yields from their gardens because the soil doesn't have enough organic
matter.  The best way to improve garden soil is by using compost.
   Compost is a mixture of soil and partly decayed organic matter.  A
compost pile is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to increase
garden production.  A home compost pile is also a handy place to
dispose of garden waste, vegetable tops and peelings, grass clippings
and any other plant matter that will rot quickly.  Leaves will decay
more slowly than grass clippings.
   Composted materials add a lot to the soil.  They improve soil
workability, provide nitrogen and other nutrients through
decomposition, and also increase the water- and nutrient-holding
capacities of the soil.  It's best to start your compost pile in an area
where it can be screened from view.  Attractive enclosures can be
made from old railroad ties, concrete blocks or other similar materials.
   If you build the compost pile near trees or other woody plants with
active surface feeding roots, place a sheet of plastic on the ground
first.  This will keep roots from coming up into the compost pile.  Lay
the plastic flat so it won't form a basin which will hold water.
   When building the pile, place the organic material in layer cake
fashion.  On each six-inch layer, sprinkle one cup of fertilizer or a
bucket of manure on a 3 feet by 5 feet area.  Include a few shovelsful
of garden soil to keep the material in place and to add microorganisms
which will help decompose the material.  Add a little water if the pile
is too dry.  Add more layers in this manner until the pile is three
feet high. 
To hasten composting, shred the materials and keep the pile moist.              
You may want to indent the top of the pile so it will catch water.  In
dry spells, add water to help break down the material.  Turn the pile
monthly in warm weather.  Your compost pile should be ready to use
in three to six months.
   Don't add diseased plants to the pile.  You'll only spread the
disease to other plants.  Don't use weeds that have gone to seed
either.
   Once the compost is ready, you can use it as a surface mulch.
Apply the finished material in layers two to four inches deep.  It will
help control weeds and conserve moisture and prevent soil crusting.
   To condition soil, mix compost into the soil before planting.  Used
this way, compost benefits all plants.  Mixing compost into the soil
improves soil structure, aeration and drainage.  It's inexpensive to
make and provides a natural, long-lasting source of plant nutrients.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                he LSU Cooperative Extension Service.dl         
-End-
-Title-
Coldframes and Hotbeds. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/26/82 (Koske)
Area:  State
                           Tele-Tip 1755
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1755,
"Coldframes and Hotbeds."
   Hotbeds and coldframes are like miniature greenhouses and they're
great for starting plants early or for hardening off plants before
setting them in the field or garden.
   When building hotbeds or coldframes, face them toward the south
for the best exposure to the light and warmth of the sun.  A
windbreak on the north side will make the bed easier to heat.  A
hedge row or a building can serve as a windbreak.  Choose a site
that is well drained and not subject to flooding.  Mulching around the
frame will help to insulate it from the cold.
   Hotbeds and coldframes are different.  Coldframes have no source
of heat except the sun.  Hotbeds may be heated with electricity or
decomposing organic matter such as barnyard manure.  Electrical
resistance wire is a common way of heating hotbeds and some will use
an incandescent light bulb.
   Hotbeds are used to start plants ahead of normal planting time.
This will allow for an earlier harvest.  Coldframes protect young,
tender plants that are transplanted into the garden from the hotbed so
they may produce an earlier harvest.  Coldframes are used to grow
out-of-season crops in the midwinter.  These include:  cabbage,
cauliflower, and broccoli.  A coldframe should be considerably larger
than hotbeds because the plants will spread out more in coldframes
and be grown to maturity.  Cover both beds with glass or clear
polyethylene.       For more gardening information and suggestions
or for free plans for building hotbeds and coldframes, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Container Vegetable Gardening. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/4/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1757
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1757,
"Container Vegetable Gardening."
   Container gardening or mini-gardening is the technique of growing
plants for vegetables in very small places.  This type gardening
doesn't require as much work as a larger garden, it's a little more
flexible in that you can move the containers from one place to
another and you can make the growing season a little longer by
moving the plants.
   The disadvantages to container gardening include a more expensive
way of taking care of the plants, more time, attention and
expertise.
   Should you decide to get into container gardening, you're
containers can be flower pots, pails, buckets, wire baskets, bushel
baskets, wooden boxes, nursery flats, window planters, washtubs,
strawberry pots, plastic bags, large food cans, or any number of
other things.
   No matter what kind of container you choose, it should have
kholes at the base or in the bottom to permit drainage of excess
water.  You should watch using dark-colored containers because they
absorb heat which could possible damage the roots.  If you do use
dark-colored pots, try painting them a lighter color or shading just
the container.
   Wooden containers may tend to rot unless you paint them.
Painting the containers with Creasote or Penta compounds will be
toxic to plant roots.  Regular, untreated house paints or copper
based preservatives will extend the life of wooden containers and
won't be harmful to the plants.
   The size of the container is important, too.  For large
vegetables like tomatoes and eggplants, you should use a five gallon
container for each plant.  You can grow this plants in two gallon
containers but you need to give the plants considerably more
attention.
 
You can use soil to grow your vegetables, but the synthetic mixes   tyl         
are much better.  The peatlite mixes containing peat and vermiculite
are excellent...they are nutrient charged, relatively sterile and pH
adjusted.  They allow the plant to get enough air and water.  You
could mix half sandy soil with half synthetic mix to improve soil
conditions.  Soils with a good bit of compost are also good for
container gardening
   Regulating how much moisture your plants get is very important.
Generally, your vegetables will need about an inch of water per week
over all the soil where the roots grow.  You can determine when to
water your plants by checking the soil down to a depth of a half-
inch.  Soil should be moist down that far and this may mean you'll
need to water some of the plants twice a day some days.
   As for fertilization, your container plants will perform best
when you use a soluble fertilizer.  You should follow the directions
on the label for the correct fertilization rates.  An example of a
soluble fertilizer may be 20-20-20 fertilizer applied once a week at
a rate of about one ounce of fertilizer in four gallons of water.
   If you decide to use a solid fertilizer such as 8-8-8...you may
try one level teaspoon of fertilizer per square foot of soil about
every three weeks.
   The kind of fertilizer you use depends on the kind of vegetable
it's put on.  Tomatoes and eggplants should have a fertilizer that's
higher in potassium than in nitrogen.  Vegetables harvested mainly
for their leaves should get a 1-1-1 ratio fertilizer or one that's a
little higher in nitrogen.
 
As I mentioned earlier, one of the big advantages of container   s atyl         
gardening is that the plants can be moved.  Plants least tolerant to
shade are fruit-bearing crops such as tomato, cucumber, squash,
pepper, etc.  The intermediate light crops are root crops such as
beets and radishes.  The crops most tolerant to shade are the leafy
crops such as greens, parsley and lettuce. However, the leafy crops
will grow best in full sun.
   Plant breeders have developed a number of dwarf or pixie hybrids
for container gardening.  These are the plants you should grow if
you can.  Small or dwarf varieties will have less of a root mass and
less of shoot mass...and this is what you want when you're growing
plants in containers.  Check some seed catalogs for these types of
plants.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county agent or
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Storing Sweet Potatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/19/82 (Cannon)
Area:  State
                           Tele-Tip 1758
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1758,
"Storing Sweet Potatoes."
   The two most important factors in storing sweet potatoes properly
are maintaining the right temperature and the right humidity.  Pay
close attention to these recommendations when you're storing sweet
potatoes.
   Don't wash potatoes after you dig them.  Place them in a basket or
some other container where there is good air movement.
   Store them in a warm, dark place to cure them.  Ideally the
temperature should be 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit with about 85 to 90
percent humidity. The curing process helps to heal cuts and bruises.
It also helps to change the starch in the root to sugar.  This
increases the sweetness of the potato. Potatoes will take about five to
seven days to cure when they're stored in the conditions just
described.  You can tell that they are cured when you eat them
because they will be sweeter.
   After they're cured, store the potatoes in a cool place, preferably
where the temperature will be maintained at 60 degrees Fahrenheit.  If
possible, choose a place with high humidity.  The temperature should
not be allowed to drop below about 50 degrees because if potatoes
suffer cold damage, they will rot.  Never store sweet potatoes in the
refrigerator.
   If sweet potatoes are stored properly, they will keep for several
months.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Grow Sweet Potatoes in the Home Garden," call the
county agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Garden Site Selection and Preparation. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/8/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1760
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1760,
"Garden Site Selection and Preparation."
   When you set out to select your garden site, keep in mind that
most vegetable plants need plenty of sun...so, it follows, naturally,
that you should choose a spot that gets full sun most, if not all, of
the day.  If you have no choice but to put your garden in a spot
where the sunlight is limited, the vegetables you can grow is also
limited...mainly to leafy crops and maybe a few root crops
   Even if you do find a sunny place to put your garden, there are a
few other things you will need to consider...such as physical and
chemical properties of the soil, soil acidity and soil drainage.
   First, let's talk about physical properties of soil.  If you've ever
worked up a bed for either flowers or vegetables and found that after
the first rain it looked almost the same way it did before you worked
it up...the chances are there wasn't enough organic matter in the soil
compared to the heavy clay particles.
   So, what you do in this situation is add some organic matter.  Or
you might use sand... sand will help hold some of the clay particles
apart...but it doesn't help the water holding capacity of the soil.
Organic matter seems to work better than sand because it helps get
air into the soil and it also helps moderate the temperature of the
soil.
   The ideal amount of organic matter in the soil for good gardening
is about five percent, however, many of the soils in Louisiana contain
only one percent or less.
 
Peat moss is an excellent source of organic matter, but it gets very   ervice.  
expensive when you try to put it in a large garden.  Any decomposed
plant residue or compost is also good organic matter for garden soil.
   It's not a good idea to put undecomposed vegetation in your garden
soil because this tends to use up nitrogen in soil...and this nitrogen
will be needed by the growing plants.
   Speaking of nitrogen, this is one of the three major elements
needed for good plant growth.  The other two elements are phosphorus
and potassium.  Probably, your soil will not have enough of these
elements and you will need to add fertilizer.  When you buy a
fertilizer with the numbers 8-8-8, the bag contains eight parts
nitrogen, eight parts phosphorus and eight parts potassium.  If the
numbers are 8-24-24, then there are eight parts nitrogen, twenty-four
parts phosphorus and twenty-four parts potassium.  The first number
always represents nitrogen, the second number represents phosphorus
and the third number represents potassium.  A complete fertilizer has
all three elements. Always buy your fertilizer by those three
numbers...not by some high-powered claim made by the manufacturer.
   How much fertilizer you apply and how you apply it is important.
Most gardeners tend to use far too much fertilizer and at the wrong
times.
Most crops will need from one to two pounds of a complete fertilizer
per 100 square feet of garden or thirty feet of row.  You should work
the fertilizer under the soil or into the row a week or two before you
plant. 
Now, let's talk about drainage.  Most gardeners do a pretty good                
job of providing surface drainage...but your plants can suffer from
sub-surface drainage problems, too.  You can help this problem some
by building high-ridged rows.  If your soil has under it what is call a
"hard pan," your plants are not going to do their best.  This hard pan
prevents water from moving down when it rains and it prevents
moisture from rising during dry weather.  When you're preparing your
garden, you should dig down below the hard pan and fill in with soil
that has some organic matter.
   Now, on with a discussion about soil acidity.  Most garden plants
like slightly acid soil.  If you soil is not acid enough you can make it
more acid by adding aluminum sulphate or sulphur.  Use one-half
ounce of powdered sulphur
or three ounces of aluminum sulphate per square yard of garden.  If you want
your soil to be less acid, add one-half cup of lime per square yard.
   You can get your soil tested free of charge by taking a pint of your soil
to your county agent's office.  He will send it to LSU in Baton Rouge where it
will be tested for phosphorous, potassium, calcium, magnesium and organic
matter.  And if your soil needs lime, the test will tell you how much.
   Making your soil more or less acid is called adjusting the P-H.
Adjusting the P-H won't work miracles...it only makes it easier for the plants to
use the nutrients in the soil.
   Even if you get the soil acidity perfect and you don't take care of the
physical properties of the soil, you're garden still may not perform very well.
It takes the right combination of all these things...to make a garden the best it
can be.
   For more gardening information and suggestions call the county agent or
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Hydroponics. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1761
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1761,
"Hydroponics."
   Hydroponics is a plant feeding method in which plant nutrients in
the form of soluble minerals are supplied to the plant roots in
solution. The way a plant picks up these nutrients from the solution
is, for the most part, exactly like it accumulates nutrients from the
soil.  There's one big difference though.  In soil culture, the soil
particles hold nutrients in reserve and feed them to the plants as the
plants need them.  In hydroponic culture, there is no reserve.  The
nutrient solution which bathes the roots in hydroponics is depleted of
nutrients by the plants.  The solution can be added to or changed to
maintain the best concentrations for plant growth.  Normally, it is
changed weekly.
   Hydroponics does avoid several soil problems associated with soil
texture, weeds and disease.  But, the hydroponic grower faces other
problems.  He must substitute for Mother Nature and keep in balance
all chemicals and physical conditions which surround the roots.  If he
doesn't, the plant can't get them anywhere else.
   There are several forms of hydroponic culture.  One is known as
the NFT or Nutrient Film Technique.  In this culture, the nutrient
solution forms a thin water film which bathes the roots.  Nutrients
are pumped in at one end of a trough, trickle down through the roots,
are collected, and pumped back through the bed.  Another form of
hydroponic culture is called the sand culture method.  In sand culture,
a medium-  to coarse-grained sand supports the roots in a trough or
container.  A complete nutrient solution is dripped or sprayed over
the top to filter down through the roots.  The solution may be
collected, or just enough solution may be applied to wet the root zone
thoroughly.  This process is repeated several times a day as needed.
   A third kind of hydroponic culture is called gravel culture.  Here,
pea-sized gravel supports and distributes the root system.  This coarse
gravel allows a nutrient solution to flow down a slope or to seep from
a surface drip and filter down through the roots.  When the nutrients
flow back into the container, they can be recirculated; otherwise they
are replenished weekly.
   Hydroponic systems require quality pumps, timers and valves.  The
troughs or containers must be kept sterile.  If a problem (such as
disease) gets into the system, all plants will be infected as the
solution is recirculated if recirculation is the method you choose.
   The nutrients solution itself is important.  Different plants require
different solutions.  A general solution, such as the modified
Hoagland's Solution, is good for tomatoes, cucumbers and other
fruiting crops.  Many pre-mixed complete nutrient solutions are
available.
   For hobby purposes and for beginning hydroponic growers, it's best
to start with a commercial solution and mix your own only after other
culture problems have been solved.  Mixing your own nutrient solution
can be even more expensive than buying commercial formulations
because many chemicals are expensive, especially when you buy them
in small quantities.                             All essential plant
nutrients must be accounted for in a nutrient solution.  Any
hydroponic solution must contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium,
calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, boron, zinc, copper and
molybdenum.  Lack of an element, too little of an element or too
much of an element will mean inferior or dead plants.  Commercial
solutions will include directions about applying.  Follow them closely,
but be aware that different environmental conditions, different
varieties and different seasons will create different demands.  Some
demands can't be met by one particular blend or concentration of
nutrients.
   Just remember that hydroponic culture is justifiable only where
plants must be grown without soil or for experimental and hobby
purposes.  Don't expect too much.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Mulching. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/26/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1764
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1764,
"Mulching."
   You can keep your vegetable garden producing during the humid,
hot summer months by applying a top layer of mulch.  Although a
mulch is usually applied to control weeds and conserve moisture, this
important organic material has other useful functions.  Mulch reduces
fruit rot and leaf diseases, prevents soil-crusting and can be turned
under to increase the organic composition of the soil at the end of
the growing season.
   Organic materials commonly used as mulch include hay, dried lawn
clippings, leaves, newspaper, pine needles, sawdust, bagasse, and
compost.
   You will need to take some precautions in applying some of these
mulches.  Clippings from lawns treated with herbicides should be
avoided until after the third mowing.  Clippings should also be dried
or dead to prevent them from becoming rooted in the garden.
   Use only well rotted sawdust if possible.  If fresh sawdust is
applied to beds, use 3+ pounds of ammonium nitrate per one-thousand
square feet of mulch.  This will prevent a loss of nitrogen from the
soil that is removed by organisms which decompose the sawdust.  For
a mulch to be effective in controlling weeds, it must be thick enough
to block light and keep weed seedlings from growing through.  Those
that do emerge are easily removed by hand.
   Mulch can also help you to cut back on you water bill.  Tests have
shown that soil moisture can be reduced as much as 70 percent by
mulching.  And, mulching will also keep rain from compacting the soil
and splashing soil particles containing diseases onto the fruit and
leaves.          For more gardening information and suggestions, call
the county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Nematode Control. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1765
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip 1765,
"Nematode Control."
   One of the most destructive invaders in home gardens that's often
responsible for poor yields and short production periods are nematodes.
And, out of the many different types of nematodes, the worst offender
is generally the root-knot nematode.
   Almost everything planted in home gardens is susceptible to this
pest.
Certain vegetables such as tomatoes, okra, cucumbers, and beans
appear to be very sensitive.  Others appearing to be more tolerant
include corn, peppers, and most of the leafy green plants such as
mustard and turnips.
   Severely infected plants are usually smaller and yellowish-colored.
They may lose their lower leaves and wilt, even with sufficient
moisture available in the soil.
   To determine if nematodes are the culprit, dig up some of the
plants with a shovel or hoe being careful not to break off any
secondary roots.  Carefully shake away the soil and examine the roots
closely for galls.  If you see knots or unusual swellings on the roots,
then root-knot nematodes could be your problem.
   Plants lightly infected by these nematodes can still grow, develop,
and produce if there is adequate moisture and nutrients in the soil.
Keep in mind, however, that even a small problem with root-knot
nematodes can become serious if two or three crops are planted a year
because these nematodes can multiply rapidly during a growing season.
 
There are several things you can do to control this condition.  You   ,ervice. i
can plant varieties which are more resistant to nematodes than others.
For example, resistant tomato varieties recommended by the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service include Better Boy, Celebrity, Pelican,
Terrific, Godfather and Monte Carlo. Frequent plowing or tilling
between crops can reduce nematode populations.  Always rotate
susceptible crops behind more resistant crops. You can also treat your
garden with a fumigant to kill many of the nematode parasites that
are in the soil.
   If you're having a problem with plants dying or producing low
yields, be suspicious of nematodes.  They're not always responsible for
this condition, but they're a likely suspect.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Organic Gardening. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/18/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1767
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1767,
"Organic Gardening."
   Does the phrase "organic gardening" make you think of vegetables
that are unmatched in flavor and are grown with whatever is found
around the house?  This concept simply isn't true.
   The organic gardener must be an excellent gardener to begin with
because he will not consider using many chemicals which solve
problems for other gardeners quickly and conveniently.  Organic
gardening is actually better suited for the north where freezing
temperatures and a shorter growing season limit the insect and disease
pressures that work against southern gardeners.
   Most organic gardening techniques are not revolutionary.  They're
just a combination of common sense and good gardening practices.  A
more realistic approach to natural gardening is to use good gardening
principles coupled with integrated pest management, called IPM for
short.  With IPM, poisonous chemicals are used--but only as a last
resort or to control pest levels to the point where pests don't do
excessive damage.
   All gardeners--organic or conventional--can use these eight good
gardening principles to increase their chances for success:
   1)  Choose well adaptable plant varieties.  Resistance to pests will
be more important than yield.  Early or short season varieties will be
exposed to pests for shorter periods.
   2)  Plant in the best season.  Early crops are exposed to fewer
pest pressures than are later crops.  Grow plants during the normal
season for best vigor and yields.                3)  Lay out the
garden properly.  Beds should run north and south and provide good
drainage.  Spacing plants generously can help prevent the spread of
pests.
   4)  Plan your weed control.  Plant a cover crop on fallow soil.
Work soil extra early, then cultivate as weed seeds sprout.
Recultivate once or twice more before planting.  Mulch heavily to
smother weeds and plant pests.  Use black plastic mulch for early soil
warming and pest protection.  Apply organic mulches only after the
soil has warmed.  If slugs and snails are a problem, trap them in
sunken cups of beer.  Develop all mulches from disease-free plants.
   5)  Use larger transplants to establish the crop where damping off
and seed rot are problems.
   6)  Use the LSU Soil Testing Service to check for soil fertility,
nutrient imbalance and pH problems.  In soils where you suspect
nematode problems, get an evaluation from the LSU Nematode Advisory
Service of the Plant Disease Clinic.
   7)  Rotate crops.  This minimizes insect and disease buildup.
   8)  Don't rely on companion planting for anything except a
decorative effect.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Saving Vegetable Seed. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/4/82
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1770
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1770,
"Saving Vegetable Seed."
   If you plan to collect and save your own vegetable seed from your
spring or fall garden, you should know that you may not be doing
yourself a favor.  A lot of things can go wrong and you may not
know that they're wrong until you've gone through the trouble of
growing your plants to maturity.
   Disease and sometimes even insects can be carried over from one
year to the next in contaminated seed.  However, if you have an
unusual seed variety...or a family hand-me-down...or if you're on an
extremely tight budget and you must save your own seed...you need to
remember several things.
   You'll have your best luck in getting true-to-type seed with self-
pollinating plants from the following groups:  tomato, lettuce, beans,
cabbage, peas, okra, pepper and eggplant.
   Other species depend on the wind or insects to carry the pollen
from the male flower to the female flower...and a cross-over in
varieties often occurs with this type pollination.  Even within the
self-pollinating types, crossing of varieties can occur...so, if you want
your seed to stay true, you'll need to plant the various varieties as
far apart as possible.
   Much of today's most desirable seed is hybridized...that is, it is the
result of crossing special varieties of a given species.  If your seed
packet has the word "hybrid" or "F-1 hybrid" associated with the
variety name of the seed, then the chances of saving true-to-type
seed are slim.  The older varieties were usually not hybrids but you
can't tell that by looking at them. 
If you do decide to save some seed, dry it well in a warm, dry                  
place.  Store it in a dry, sealed jar in the refrigerator.  You can also
freeze seed, but it's not necessary and for crops with big seed, you
may not want to do this because it may take too much room in your
freezer.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperativealso        
-End-
-Title-
Viruses of Plants. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 1772
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1772, "Viruses of Plants."
   Virus diseases are some of the most unusual and most important
problems affecting vegetables in Louisiana.  Viruses are tiny, infectious
particles thousands of times smaller than a plant cell.  They live and
reproduce only inside a living cell.  Viruses are usually carried or
transmitted from host to host by insects or mechanical means.
   Virus diseases usually disrupt the physical appearance of the plants
they attack.  They may cause stunting, mosaic, blistering or puckering
of leaves and curling.
   In Louisiana, common virus diseases on vegetables include the
tobacco mosaic virus, tomato spotted wilt--also called curly top virus--
cucumber mosaic virus and the common bean mosaic virus.
   Tobacco mosaic virus, which is transmitted by mechanical handling
of plants, may originate on infested seed or by persons using tobacco
products near their plants.  It causes a typical, light/dark green
mottled pattern in infected leaves.  Tomato spotted wilt virus, or curly
top virus, stunts plants severely.  Veins of affected plants are often
purple.  Tomato spotted wilt is transmitted by thrips.
   Cucumber mosaic virus and common bean mosaic virus are
transmitted by infested seed.  Both are spread by the feedings of
insects, especially aphids.
   Virus diseases are controlled best by purchasing high quality seed.
Don't smoke or use tobacco when you're working in the garden.
Remove and destroy any infected plants. 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county                 
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Watering the Garden. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1773
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1773,
"Watering the Garden."
   Your vegetable garden represents a big investment of time and
money.  Don't let a lack of water ruin this investment.  Water supply
is important to vegetable production.  Too much water will drown the
root systems and cause wilting, fruit loss or even plant death.  Too
little water will cause stunting, fruit loss or plant death.  As a
general rule, gardens need about an inch of water each week.  Larger
plants need more water than smaller plants, so you'll need to adjust
your watering to match plant growth.  Mulches conserve water...so if
your plants are mulched you won't need to water them as often.
   The frequency of watering should depend on the soil moisture level.
To test soil moisture quickly, ball a handful of soil from the root
zone.  If the soil crumbles easily when you release the pressure, the
garden needs watering.  Be sure to soak the soil to a depth of six to
eight inches when you water.  Overhead sprinklers usually don't water
adequately because the soil appears to be wet when it is wet only for
an inch or two.  This causes new roots to form only in the surface
layer of the soil and makes plants more susceptible to drought injury.
 Sprinkling also washes insecticides, fungicides and nutrients from
plant leaves.  It also causes a high moisture content around leaves and
splashes mud on the leaves.  These promote leaf diseases.
   The best method of watering is the furrow flood method of
irrigation.  Here you simply dam the aisles and slowly flood them
when water is needed.  This water will soak deeply into the soil and
will encourage growth of an extensive root system. You can apply
fertilizer in the middles and wash it down into the root zone for side
dressings. 
You may want to consider the newer concept of trickle irrigation.               
In this system, water trickles slowly from a specially built tube or
tape to the soil near the plants.  It permits a precise application of
water directly onto the plant root zone and cuts down on water use.
Also, you'll water the plants, not the weeds.  Trickle systems and kits
are available at horticultural supply centers.  The system usually
involves attaching a garden hose to a manifold from which several
watering tapes or hoses extend.  The tapes may be laid underneath the
black plastic or alongside the plant stems, either above or below the
soil.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                
                                parish office of the LSU Cooperativeets         
-End-
-Title-
Weed Control. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


TeleTip 1774
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1774, "Weed Control."
   Louisiana gardens are blessed with a warm, moist climate that is
ideal for plant growth.  This may mean impressive yields of produce as
well as tremendous weed problems.  Weeds like this climate, too, and
even a few will hurt vegetable production.
   First, weeds compete with vegetables for minerals and moisture.
They'll shade the crop plants, too.  Weeds can also hide or provide a
breeding place for insects and plant diseases that will spread to your
vegetables.  If weeds are let alone, they will become firmly established
and produce seeds and tubers to regenerate themselves.  Some weeds
will even poison or deform vegetables that grow near them.
   If you want to harvest top quality vegetables and have good yields,
you must get rid of weeds.  In most gardens, you can control them
with a hoe or cultivator.  Drag the hoe along the surface to snip off
weeds so you won't cut crop plant roots.  A sharp hoe is best.  Don't
hoe if the soil is too wet. You will want to hand-pull weeds in the
row which are close to plants.
   Most weeds can be kept out by mulching the crop heavily.  Use
either an organic mulch or black plastic.  For a large garden, or for a
garden with a serious weed problem, use a preplant herbicide such as
Dacthal, Dual or Treflan.  Read the label instructions carefully, and
don't apply more than is recommended.  Once you apply a herbicide,
don't disturb the soil surface.  These chemicals will work for six to
eight weeks.  Roundup is a plant poison that will kill anything it gets
on.  It can be used a week or two on growing weeds and cocograss
prior to turning the soil.
   For more gardening information and suggestions call the county
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Why Plants Fail to Set Fruit. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/12/82 (Koske)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1775
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 1775,
"Why Plants Fail to Set Fruit."
   Many gardeners will worry about plants that fail to set fruit or
plants that produce only poorly developed fruit this summer.
   In most cases, the weather--not the gardener--is to blame.  For
fruit to set on a healthy plant, pollen must be transferred from the
anther to the stigma of the flower.  Then it must grow quickly down
into the ovary and fertilize an egg cell.  This activity results in the
formation of one seed.
   The natural development of fruit depends on seed development.
Where seed isn't developed, fruit doesn't develop.  So, a flat spot or a
crease will appear on a tomato, for example.  When you think about
all the seeds found in a tomato, you realize a lot of pollination must
occur.  Without most of this pollination, the flower may drop off, the
plant may not set fruit, or irregular-shaped fruit will develop.
   Many things affect pollination.  Unfavorable daytime
temperatures...which means temperatures above 90 degrees Fahrenheit
or below 55 degrees Fahrenheit--or nighttime temperatures in the mid-
70s may cause sterile pollen or irregular pollen growth for tomatoes
and other crops resulting in poor seed development.  High
temperatures, low light, too much nitrogen, too little potassium or
manganese, low humidity and low temperatures may cause irregular
flower or pollen development.  This may lead to a blockage of fertile
pollen transfer and irregular growth of the fruit. 
Although the tomato flower should pollinate itself within about two             
days, tomatoes and other vegetables may face hazards when trying to
pollinate in hot weather.  Plant corn in blocks or groupings.  It's
wind-pollinated, and several short rows together are better than one
or two long rows.  Grouped plants can help pollinate each other.
Squash and the vining cucurbit crops have separate male and female
blossoms.  They are pollinated by insects, so be sure you use
insecticides carefully.  Use them in the late afternoon when bee
activity is low.  Also, before you decide you have a squash pollination
problem, check to see if both male and female stalks are present.
Male stalks are the plain ones, and female stalks appear noticeably
swollen just under the flower petals.
   For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county
agent in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Side dressing Vegetables. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/15/82 (Koske)
Area:  State
                           Tele-Tip 1776
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip 1776 "Side
dressing Vegetables."
   A productive vegetable crop needs a constant supply of food
because fertilizers are used up as vegetables grow.  But, to place all
fertilizer needed by a crop in one preplant application would overfeed
a young plant and underfeed a mature or fruit-bearing plant.
   The term "top-dress" usually refers to broadcast applications on
crops like small grain.  The term "side-dress" refers to fertilizer
placed two to four inches beside a row of vegetables.
   Nitrogen is highly soluble.  It's the first nutrient to be removed
from the soil, so most side-dressings need be only nitrogen using
ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate.  In sandy soils, potassium may
be removed, too.  Where this is a problem, the potassium application
can be split.  It's easiest to use a complete fertilizer like 8-8-8 as a
side-dressing.  However, this also contains phosphorous which can
build up in soils and create problems in the future.
   Plants can be grouped into three categories for side-dressing:
those that don't need a side-dressing, those that need about one-half
cup ammonium nitrate per 25 feet of row, and those that need three-
fourths cup ammonium nitrate per 25 feet of row.  When you're using
ammonium sulfate, use these same rates, but on only 20 feet of row.
   The heavy feeders which need three-fourths cup ammonium nitrate
per 25 feet of row include:  Irish potatoes, sweet corn, celery,
cabbage, collards, broccoli, and cauliflower.    Beans, peas, and
sweet potatoes usually don't need a side-dressing. Other crops need
about one-half cup ammonium nitrate or equivalent per 25 feet of row.
If you apply 8-8-8 instead of ammonium nitrate, use four times as
much.
   The time to side-dress will vary from vegetable to vegetable.
Vining crops are side-dressed once when vines begin to run but before
fruit has set. Corn is side-dressed when it is about one foot tall, then
again when it is three feet tall.  Don't side-dress tomatoes, peppers,
eggplants, and okra until the first fruits have set.  Then side-dress
every three to four weeks.  A general rule is to side-dress when
growth has slowed and plant color has lightened. Side-dressing too
often or too heavily can result in no fruit or a burned plant.
   When side-dressing, apply fertilizer several inches away from the
base of the plant.  Wash off any fertilizer touching the stems.  When
side-dressing plants grown with black plastic mulch, you may cut small
slits in the plastic and apply the fertilizer under the plastic.  Most
will side-dress in the middles of the aisles and leach this fertilizer
toward the roots under the plastic with irrigation.
   The Louisiana Vegetable Planting Guide explains how much side-
dressing each vegetable needs and when to apply it.  You can get a
copy of the planting guide free of charge from the county agent or
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Caterpillars--Tent, Webworm, Walnut. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1802
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1802, "Caterpillars--Tent, Webworm, Walnut."
   The first signs of spring in Louisiana are the webbings of the
Eastern Tent caterpillar in the crotches of cherry and willow trees.
These webbings get larger as the worms grow larger.  The Eastern
Tent caterpillar is velvety brown with a yellow line down its back and
long yellow hairs over its body.
   Its first cousin, the Forest Tent caterpillar, has a blue head and
body and a series of yellow keyhole shaped spots down its back.
Unlike the Eastern Tent, the Forest Tent builds no web, but moves
around in large masses on sweet gums and oaks.  Both of these
caterpillars live through the winter as an egg.  The eggs are laid the
summer before and look like a shiny brown crystalline mass around the
small stems of host trees.
   The Walnut caterpillar feeds on pecan, walnut and other trees
which lose their leaves in the winter.  The larva of the Walnut
caterpillar are black with gray lines and covered with a lot of long,
gray hairs.  The immature larvae are reddish-brown with yellow lines
that run the length of the body.  They usually move in mass and feed
and hang on branches in large clusters.
   The Fall Webworm has two or more generations...but the first one
usually goes unnoticed.  The later generations build large webs in
pecan and other hardwood trees.  The larva has a black head and is
pale yellow to gray or brown.  The Fall Webworn lives through the
winter as pupae in the soil with adults emerging in the spring as a
small white moth.
   You should try to control these caterpillars in the late afternoon
or early evening with insecticides Diapel, Thuracide, Bitrol, or
Malathion.  Orthene in the form of a soluble powder may be used on
ornamentals and shade trees.
 
If you want more information about controlling insects in and   onooneen        
around your home, you should call the county agent in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Fleas. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1804
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1804, "Fleas."
   You may think of fleas as problems for pets...but your pet may be
the beginning of an infestation that turns into problems for you.
   You may also think that fleas grow and multiply only indoors...but
that's not quite the case.  Under the right conditions, they reproduce
quite nicely in your yard, too.
   While we're on the subject of yards...here's how you might go
about trying to rid your yard of fleas.  The most common mistake
made in trying to get rid of fleas in the yard is putting a tablespoon
of insecticide in a gallon of water and spraying the entire area with
it.  The fact is...this just isn't enough insecticide to do any good.
   If you're using 25% Diazinon, you should mix two-and-a-half
ounces... five tablespoons...of the insecticide in three gallons of water
and spray 1,000 square feet of surface.
   If you're using Sevin, 80% sprayable, you should mix two
tablespoons of the insecticide in four gallons of water and spray it
over 100 square feet...or you can mix four tablespoons of Sevin 50%
wettable in four gallons of water and spray it over 100 square feet.
   Also, you can mix three tablespoons of 25% Dursban in three
gallons of water and spray this mixture over 1,000 square feet.
 
Many people believe that dipping their pets will control fleas.  This   r       
would be the case if all the stages of flea development were on the
pet...but they're not.  The various younger stages will be in the house
or in the yard, not on the pet...so, if you don't treat all three places
at the same time, you're likely to get another infestation in short
order.  In fact, dipping solutions are usually short-lived and the
animals are susceptible to reinfestation 3 to 5 days after they're
treated.
   Flea collars are often used to control fleas on pets.  Flea collars
work, but the one thing to remember when you're putting a flea collar
on your pet is to be sure the collar is tight enough.
   During a 24-hour period fleas move from the body of an animal to
the eyes and nose of the animal and feed on the liquids in those
places.  If the collar is too loose on the animal, fleas can get past it
without touching it or without getting enough insecticide on them to
kill them.
   If you have flea problems inside your house, you can spray with
any of several insecticides...Diazinon, Dursban or Baygon.  Twenty-five
percent Diazinon should be applied at the rate of about two-and-a-half
ounces for each gallon of water.  Spray the inside surfaces lightly.
Don't saturate carpet.  You will need to make two or three
applications ten-to-twelve days apart.
   For more information and suggestions about controlling fleas, call
the county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Slugs and Snails. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1806
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1806, "Slugs and Snails."
   Slugs and snails are members of the mollusk family and can be a
problem around your home and garden because they eat plants and
leave glistening trails of slime wherever they crawl.  Also, their soft
bodies and slimy appearance make them repulsive to some people.
   Both slugs and snails have soft, fleshy, legless bodies that vary in
color from light tan to black...most are mottled with shades of gray.
Their eyes are carried on the ends of stalks or appendages on their
head.  They move slowly and grow to between one-half inch and four
inches long.
   Slugs and snails need moisture to survive.  Normally, they hide
during the day to avoid the sun.  So, you're likely to find them under
pieces of wood, pottery, bricks, plants and heavy mulches.  They're
active, generally, at night or on damp, cloudy days.
   Slugs and snails feed on leaves, flowers, stems or roots of plants
by scraping off the tissue or eating holes in the leaves or flowers.
Their slime trails remain for days on the rocks, plants and buildings
they crawl over.
   There are several ways you can control slugs and snails...trapping
and collecting them from under boards or flower pots set out to
attract them...or by collecting them from plants at night...or by using
commercially prepared baits containing Mesurol or Methaldehyde.  You
should use these baits after a rain or after you water your plants.
This is when the slugs and snails are more active.
 
One other method of controlling slugs and snails is the beer trap.   ngtr       
Put a pint jar or aluminum pie pan in the ground so that the upper
lip is flush with the soil.  Pour beer in the container until it's about
half full.  Several slices of banana may be added to make it more
attractive.  Snails and slugs really like beer and they will crawl into
the beer and drown.
   For more information about controlling slugs and snails and other
garden and household insects, call the county agent in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Aphids. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1811
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1811, "Aphids."
   Aphids are one of the most diverse groups of insects around
because they attack many different kinds of plants and they cause
several different kinds of damage.  Plants infested with aphids can be
stunted, dwarfed, deformed, infected with disease or killed.  Aphids
appear as soon as you begin to plant or as plants begin to sprout.
   Most aphids have been given names that associate them with the
plant they most often attack...for instance, the Rusty Plum aphid, the
Rosy Apple aphid, the Wooly Apple aphid, the Green Peach aphid, the
potato aphid or the cabbage aphid.  Aphids are not very large...the
smallest one is the cabbage aphid and it's about the size of bird
shot...but they go on up to the largest which is the giant bark aphid.
This is the aphid you're likely to find on oaks and other shade trees
in the fall and early spring when the weather is cool.
   Aphids can feed on any part of a plant by using its piercing,
sucking mouthparts to get the nutrients out of plants.  As the aphids
feed...they take in more than they can use and the excess is excreted
as a sticky substance called honeydew.  This honeydew causes two
problems...first, it attracts ants and wasps and second, it promotes the
growth of a fungi called sooty mold.  Sooty mold usually looks like a
black mat that may cover the entire leaf surface. 
So what do you do to get rid of aphids...and that is what you want              
to do. You can spray your vegetable plants with Malathion or Thiodan.
On your flowers and shrubs you can use Thiodan, Malathion, Cygon or
Orthene.  One warning...don't use Cygon on azaleas or crepe myrtles.
Also, don't use Sevin on aphids because most of them thrive on it.
Sevin kills their predators and may even stimulate their reproduction.
And as always, follow the directions on the label of the insecticide
you use.
   If you would like to have more information about aphids, call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                
                                n your parish office of the Louisiana.          
-End-
-Title-
Scale Insects. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/13/82 (Pollet)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1812
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1812,
"Scale Insects."
   Scale insects represent about 75-to-80 percent of the problems that
occur on ornamental plants.  Scale insects are extremely devastating
to many plants and they multiply rapidly.  Once they infest a plant,
they're difficult to control.
   Many people believe that spraying plants for scale insects once or
twice a season is enough to control the pests.  While this is
possible...it's not very likely.  Usually, those scales which are the most
trouble produce several generations in one season.
   As an example of just how devastating scale insects can be, listen
to this example of how they can reproduce.  One female of the white
peach scale can lay about 80 eggs.  They can go through about five
generations a year.  Assuming that only half of each generation is
female...at the end of a single season one female can have offspring
that number more than 260,000.  The point is, they can get out of
hand before you know it.
   Check your plants periodically.  Look closely and pay particular
attention to anything that seems out of place on the stems, branches
and foliage.  It's important that you find scale insects and control
them before they begin to develop and reproduce.
   Here's what to look for.  Scales are tiny insects that feed with a
piercing, sucking mouthpart like aphids.  The most common one is the
mealybug.  This group of scales is very mobile and capable of walking
from one plant to another at any time.
 
However, most scales are not very mobile except when they first   ing most      
hatch from the eggs.  At the point they may be blown by the wind to
other plants or carried to other plants on the feet of birds.
   Scales usually leave a white powdery, waxy layer on the stems.
You can also recognize scales by the crusty appearance they give
various plants when there are large numbers of them on the plant.
Also, the excessive wax excretion or secretion of some scales like the
Florida wax scale make them readily noticeable.
   How you control scale insects depends on the kind of scale it is
and what kind of plant the insect in on.  Some pesticides have
warnings on the labels which advise which plants not to spray...always
read the label of pesticides before you use them.
   Insecticides known as oils may be used year round at various
dosage levels...but they do the best job in early spring and in the fall.
Oils may also be used with the insecticides Malathion, Ethion or
Diazinon.  Where you use oils, it's important that you make at least
two applications ten-to-fourteen days apart and then again occasionally
depending on the density of the scale populations.
   Other sprays available for controlling scale insects include Orthene,
Sevin, Cygon, and Dursban.  In most cases at least two applications
are required.  Remember, when you're spraying for scale insects, it's
important to know what scale is causing the injury.
   For more information about controlling scale insects and other
home and garden insects, call the county agent in your parish office
of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Disposal of Pesticide Containers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/21/82 (Grodner)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1850
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1850,
"Disposal of Pesticide Containers."
   Even after you use all of a pesticide, there still may be some of
the product left in the container.  Pesticide dusts in bags and boxes
can have residue sticking to the inside and possibly even the outside
of the package.
   Wettable powders act very much the same way...however, they
usually have a much higher concentration of active ingredients than
the dust formulations.  So, the residues of wettable powders left in
the empty container may be more toxic than most dusts.
   Also, small amounts of liquid pesticides may stay in the bottle, jug
or can after it has been emptied.  Emulsifiable concentrate, flowable,
miscible and soluble formulations may have a concentration equal to or
greater than the wettable powder formulation.
   So, always be careful to handle these pesticides in a way that you
don't come in contact with them.  It only takes a taste of a
concentrate labeled "Danger Poison" to kill the average adult.
Children have less sensitive or selective tastes and may taste a
material out of curiosity in an amount that could be fatal.  A
moderately toxic pesticide that has the word "Warning" on the label
means that a teaspoon to a tablespoon full, if swallowed, could kill an
average adult. And, as little as two tablespoons of pesticides with the
word "Caution" on the label can be fatal for an adult.
   So, rinsing containers, prompt disposal, and complete security are
important to prevent accidental contact with pesticide residues.
 
Temporary disposal of pesticide containers is limited to the storage   ,.t      
of the empty container before it is permanently disposed of.  For the
homeowner, this should be before the next trash collection or trip to
the sanitary landfill.  The temporary disposal of an empty pesticide
container requires the same storage security and cautious handling as
it would if it contained useable amounts of the product.
   When a pesticide is labeled "Keep out of reach of children," or "Do
not reuse this container for another purpose," or "Do not contaminate
the environment," this means you should follow the label directions
even when the container is empty.
   Permanent disposal of empty pesticide containers for most people
living in cities and in some rural areas is through the regular trash
collection that goes to a sanitary landfill.  Many pesticide labels
advise triple rinsing the empty container if suitable, then wrapping it
with several layers of paper and placing it in the regular trash
collection.  Use the rinse water in your sprayer.
   None of the containers that are used for small package homeowner
pesticides are suitable for reuse, return, or recycling.  Burning of
containers is not possible for most urban homeowners because of local
restrictions, and pressurized containers such as aerosol spray cans
should not be incinerated, anyway, because of the danger of explosion.

   The ultimate goal for you as a pesticide user is to dispose of these
empty pesticide containers in a manner that protects everyone from
accidental contact with a toxic chemical and to help prevent pesticide
residues from escaping into the environment.
   For more information and suggestions about the proper use of
pesticides, or for a free pamphlet called "Safe Handling, Storage and
Disposal of Pesticide containers," call the county agent in your parish
office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
How Dangerous are Pesticides? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/21/82 (Grodner)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1851
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1851,
"How Dangerous are Pesticides?"
   When a word ends with the letters i-c-i-d-e, the word means to
kill, so, a pesticide is something...usually a chemical, which kills pests.
Because pesticides are formulated to kill...they are, by their very
nature, toxic and some of them are hazardous to people.
     The term pesticide is a general category with a large number of
subcategories. For example, an insecticide kills insects, a herbicide
kills plants, a miticide kills mites, and a rodenticide kills rodents.
   There are some other chemicals which control pests and are
classified as pesticides but...they don't have the letters i-c-i-d-e at
the end of their names.  For example, a repellent will keep away
pests, an attractant will lure pests, a plant regulator stops, speeds up,
or otherwise changes normal plant processes, and desiccants and
defoliants are harvest aid chemicals used to remove or kill leaves and
stems.
   Pesticides can also be grouped according to what they do.  Many
work in more than one way.  Read the label to find out what the one
does that you plan to use.
 
Here are some of the ways pesticides work...contact pesticides kill   up,s.     
pests simply by coming in contact with them...stomach poisons kill by
being swallowed by the pest...systemics kill pests by being taken into
the blood of the animal or sap of the plant on which the pest is
feeding...translocated herbicides are pesticides which kill plants by
being absorbed by leaves, stems, or roots and moving throughout the
plant...fumigants are gases which kill when they are inhaled or
otherwise absorbed by the pests...selective pesticides are those which
kill certain kinds of plants or animals...whereas non-selective pesticides
are those which kill most plants or animals.
   You can tell how toxic a pesticide is by reading the signal word
and symbol on the label.  The signal word "Danger" means that the
product is highly toxic.  You will find the skull and crossbones and
the word "Poison" on the label of these products.  Rarely are the
pesticides in this toxicity category available for home use.
   The signal word "Warning" means that the product is moderately
toxic. The signal word "Caution" means that the pesticide has a low
toxicity or is comparatively free from danger.
   There is a statement of practical treatment or first aid directions
on the label of every pesticide container.  This statement tells you
what you should do if the pesticide is accidentally inhaled, swallowed,
or brought in contact with skin.  If the product is highly toxic there
will be a note to physicians on the product label.  The pesticide label
is the most important information you can take to the physician when
someone has been poisoned.
   The label on the pesticide container is the best source of
information about that particular product.  The directions for use will
tell you...1) the crop, animal or other item the product can be used
on...2) how the product should be applied...3) how much to use...4)
where the material should be applied...and 5) when it should be
applied.
   When you're using a pesticide, you should read the label carefully
before using it...don't use the pesticide and then read the label.
   For more information about the safe and proper use of pesticides,
call the county agent  in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pesticide Uses. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/21/82 (Grodner)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1853
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1853,
"Pesticide Uses."
   If you have identified a pest, and you know how it grows, spreads
and does its damage...then you're ready to plan how you're going to
control it.
   Using a pesticide is only one of many ways to control pests.  The
combination of several methods is basic to all pest control.  Be sure
to think about what other methods might work before you decide to
apply a pesticide.
   You can minimize pest problems a number of ways...by encouraging
the pests' natural enemies...by planting crop varieties that resist
pests...by destroying crop residues...and by clean plowing and
cultivation.
   Pest control is necessary only when the pest is causing more
damage than is reasonable to accept.  Even though a pest is present,
it may not do much harm.  In fact, it may cost more to control the
pest than would have been lost because of the pests' damage.
   Several terms are used to describe how and when to use pesticides.
For example, there are several different times when you can apply a
pesticide...especially a herbicide.  Pre-emergence herbicides are used
before the crops or weeds emerge from the ground.  Pre-emergence
may also refer to use after crops emerge...but before weeds emerge.
Pre-plant pesticides are used before the crop is planted.  And, post-
emergence pesticides are used after the crop or weeds have emerged
from the ground.
 
Also, there are several ways to apply a pesticide.  A band   ergedst-dldes.     
application is the application of the pesticide to a strip over or along
each crop row.  Broadcast is a uniform application to an entire,
specific area.  Dip application is either complete or partial immersion
of a plant, animal or object in a pesticide.  Directed application is
aiming the pesticide at a portion of a plant, animal, or structure.  A
drench application means to saturate the soil with a pesticide or oral
treatment of an animal with a liquid pesticide.  A foliar pesticide is
one which is applied to the leaves of plants.  Spot treatment is the
application of a pesticide to a small, specific area.
   Various formulations of pesticides are available and you should be
familiar with them before you use them.  Among the liquid
formulations are emulsifiable concentrates...also known as EC or E.
These formulations should be mixed with water to form an emulsion in
your spray tank.  Emulsifiable concentrates become milky looking when
mixed with water.
   Flowables...also referred to as F or L...are mixed with water to
form a suspension in your spray tank.
   Aerosols are low-concentrate solutions, usually applied as a fine
spray or mist indoors.  Some are sold in pressurized cans.
   Among the dry formulations are dusts which usually have a D on
the label.  Dusts must be used dry.
   Granular formulations are much larger than dust particles and also
should be used dry.
   A wettable powder, designated by a W or WP, looks like a dust but
is made to mix with water.  Wettable powders require continuous
agitation to maintain a suspension.
 
Soluble powders, however, will dissolve in water.  These are   t butosnges.     
designated by an S or SP on the label.
   A bait formulation is, of course, to be used dry so it will attract
the pest.
   You should always carefully read and follow the directions on
pesticide labels.
   For more information and suggestions about the safe and proper
use of pesticides, call the county agent in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Clothes Moths and Carpet Beetles. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1904
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1904, "Clothes Moths and Carpet Beetles."
   Both clothes moths and carpet beetles infest fabrics made from
animals or fabrics which have an animial origin...primarily
wool...however, they will infest furs, hides and anything else of animal
origin.  Clothes moths and carpet beetles cannot survive on synthetic
fabrics or cotton.  But, if clothes made from cotton or synthetic
fabrics have been worn and have not been cleaned, sometimes the
larvae of these insects will chew holes in the fabric feeding on the
particles of skin left on the clothing.
   The most effective means of controlling clothes moths and carpet
beetles in clothing is to prevent them from getting on the clothing in
the first place.  At the end of the winter season, you should clean
and store all woolen garments in an insect-proof storage container.
   The adults of both the clothes moth and the carpet beetle cannot
penetrate a plastic bag...a paper bag...or a cardboard box.  So, be sure
you use a container made of one of these products and one that can
be sealed.  Before you put your garments in the insect-proof
container, you should add some moth balls, moth crystals or
napthylene crystals.  These crystals don't kill the insects...but, they do
repel them and keep them from entering the storage container and
laying the eggs from which the larvae develop.  After the storage
container is sealed with the napthylene crystals or moth balls inside,
the garments should be safe from insects until fall.
 
If you find that some of your clothes already have an infestation   e,y do.     
of clothes moths or carpet beetles, the garments should be laundered
or dry cleaned.  Putting the garments out in the sun for a day will
help drive away some of the insects, but this will not kill larvae in
the clothing and these could still grow to be adult moths and beetles.
   So, you need to spray the clothes to get rid of the larvae.  A .5%
solution of Diazinon should be sprayed on the infested garments and
then the garments should be aired out in the sun for at least one day
before they're brought back inside the house.
   Also, you should spray the closet where the infestation occurred.
Spray with the same .5% solution of Diazinon or use a no-pest strip
containing the insecticide Vapona.  If you use the no-pest strip, you
should hang it up and then seal the closet for several days, allowing
the fumes from the strip to penentrate all the areas of the closet
killing the remaining larvae and adults.
   For more information and suggestions about controlling the insects
in and around your house, call the county agent in your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Pantry Pests. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1905
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1905, "Pantry Pests."
   Several kinds of insects can infest food in your pantry.  Foods
such as rice, corn, wheat, oats, barley and other grain-type foods are
quite susceptible to infestations of the Indian Meal Moth, Angoumois
grain moth, cigarette beetle, drugstore beetle, saw-tooth grain beetle,
flat grain beetle, red flour beetle, and several others.
   All of these insects are controlled the same way.  The first thing
you you should do is determine the source of the infestation.  If you
have a lot of beetles in one cabinet, it usually means that something
in that cabinet is heavily infested.  Find the source of the infestation
and remove it because it won't do any good to use an insecticide
unless you find and remove that source. Once the source of the
infestation has been removed, the problem will eliminate itself.
But to insure infestation control, it's helpful to spray the cracks in
the cabinet with a 0.5 percent solution of Diazinon or a 2 percent
solution of Malathion.
   If you need to take further precautions, there are two non-
chemical methods of controlling these pantry pests.  One method is to
place the remaining foods in the deep freeze at zero degrees
Fahrenheit for 48 hours.  The second method is to place the food in
the oven at 140 degrees for approximately 20 minutes.  Either of these
methods will reduce and kill all stages of the pantry pests.
   For more information and suggestions about controlling insects in
and around your house, call the county agent in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Roaches. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1906
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1906, "Roaches."
   The cockroach is a domestic problem in homes throughout the
United States and the world.  Cockroaches really don't discriminate
against people because of their wealth, sex, age or race.  They will
move in with anybody...some people let them stay, while other people
take steps to get rid of them.
   There are three primary cockroaches which cause problems in
homes here in Louisiana.  They are the American cockroach...the
Smoky Brown cockroach... and the German cockroach.  The American
and Smoky Brown cockroaches are large while the German cockroach
is small...about a half-inch long.
   One of the first things you need to do to get rid of the roaches in
your home is to determine what kind or kinds you have.  For example,
the Smoky Brown cockroach is primarily an outside pest which comes
in from the garbage cans, patio area, sewer area, etc.  Seldom will
you find a immature Smoky Brown cockroach in the house.  The adults
hang around the door and when it's opened they run inside.  Then,
they go back outside to lay their eggs and the immature roaches are
raised outside.
   The American cockroach and the German cockroach are inside
pests...that is...they spend their entire lives inside, but you can find
them in other places besides homes.  Again, the American cockroach is
large, whereas the German cockroach is small.
 
You control both the American and German cockroaches inside the    isinddo.     
home the same way.  Chemicals should be sprayed primarily on the
cracks and crevices of cabinets, drawers and other places where the
roaches may hide during the day.  So, when you spray, make sure that
you get to the places where the roaches hide during the daytime.
This way, when the cockroaches return to those areas the residual of
the chemical will kill them in a few hours.
   When you're spraying for cockroaches, the pressure of your sprayer
should be very low.  This low pressure produces large droplets which
run down into the cracks and get down to the areas where the
roaches might hide.  Spray in and around the cabinets...but before you
spray remove all the dishes, pots and pans, foods, and containers that
might have food in them.  Let the chemical dry for about two hours
before you put the pots, pans and foods back into the cabinets.
   You can buy the ready-mixed chemicals for controlling cockroaches
at the hardware store.  Also, you can buy a liquid concentrate which
must be mixed with water before it's applied.
   Here are some common chemicals used for controlling cockroaches:
 25% Diazinon...mix two-and-a-half to five ounces of Diazinon in each
gallon of water; 25% Dursban...mix one-and-a-quarter ounces of
Dursban in each gallon of water; 57% Malathion...mix two ounces of
Malathion in each gallon of water.  Also, Boric acid can be sprinkled
in the cabinets or placed in small containers.
To effectively control cockroaches in your home, you'll need to spray
once a month.
   For more information and suggestion about controlling the insects
around you home, call the county agent in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Silverfish and Earwigs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 1908
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
1908, "Silverfish and Earwigs."
   Silverfish and earwigs are completely unrelated insects...however,
they are two pests which are frequently found in houses.
   The silverfish is an insect which grows continually throughout its
life and it feeds primarily on the glue used in book bindings,
cardboard boxes and the like.  So, the places you're likely to have
problems with silverfish are around books and bookshelves.  Silverfish
are capable of destroying books and other valuable papers...so, if you
find them in you home you'll need to control them.  Any of the so-
called household insecticides are capable of killing silverfish...these
insecticides include Diazinon, Malathion, Baygon and Dursban.
   The earwig is a different problem.  It's usually a pest in newer
subdivisions where houses have been built in what was a wooded area.
Actually, it's not a case of the earwigs moving in on people, but
people moving in on the earwigs.
   Earwigs don't harm people...they don't bite, sting, or pinch.  But,
they do look bad and they have an unpleasant odor when you step on
them. Of course, they can be a nuisance when they get inside the
house.  They feed exclusively on insects and related animals.
   Your first line of defense against earwigs should be physically
keeping the insects out of your house...that is, by blocking areas
around you door, windows and other places where they might enter
the house.
 
If you see that you need to resort to chemicals, you should spray   t,eddo.     
in and around doorways.  You should use the chemical Diazinon around
the patio area mixed at at a rate of two-and-a-half to five ounces of
25% Diazinon per gallon of water.  Once the earwigs get into the
house, the only method of getting rid of them is to spray the
baseboards with the 25% Diazinon mixture.
   For more information and suggestions about controlling insects in
and around your house, call the county agent in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Poinsettias. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/13/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 1952
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
1952, "Poinsettias."
   The poinsettias that you bought for the holidays or recieved as a
Christmas gift should keep its beauty for many weeks if you take care
of it.  There are now some excellent new varieties which have the
ability to last a long time.
   Here is what you should do to extend the beauty of your
poinsettias...put the poinsettia in the sunniest part of the room.  It
needs a minimum of 75 foot candles of natural or artificial light.
   Keep your poinsettia away from cold drafts or excessive heat from
television sets, radiators or heating ducts.
   Water your plant thoroughly whenever it's needed.  Make sure a
small amount of the water that is applied drips through the drainage
holes of the container.
   If your poinsettia came wrapped with decorative foil, punch a hole
in the foil beneath the pot so the extra water can escape.  Put the
plant in a saucer to prevent damage to furniture.
   You can help the bracts of your poinsettia keep their bright color
by keeping the temperature around the plant no warmer than 70
degrees.  Cooler temperatures are better if they don't dip below 50
degrees.
   If you are going to try to keep your poinsettia for a couple of
months, then you should fertilize it.  Use a soluble, complete
fertilizer, such as 20-20-20, twice each month.
   Finally...some good news.  Contrary to frequent reports, the bracts
and foliage of poinsettias are not poisonous.  So, enjoy your
poinsettias.
 
For more gardening information and suggestions, call the county   actseddo.     
agent or home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Advantages of Breast-feeding Your Baby. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2501
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2501, "Advantages of Breast-feeding Your Baby."
   The American Pediatric Society recommends breast-feeding for
infants because of the advantages breast-feeding offers both mother
and baby.  Because the nutrients in breast milk are easily digested and
ideally suited to a baby's needs, breast milk alone can provide every
nutrient a baby needs for the first six months of life.  Usually, no
vitamin or mineral supplements are needed, but sometimes doctors may
prescribe vitamin D for some babies, and they may urge mothers to
give their breast-fed babies fluoride supplements.
   Besides getting the nutrients they need, nursing babies also get
other health benefits.  Nursing infants have fewer gastronomical
illnesses, such as vomiting and diarrhea, and fewer respiratory
illnesses, such as colds and infections.  Breast-fed infants also have
fewer allergic reactions than do babies fed with bottles.
   The breast-fed infant is also less likely to become overweight than
an infant who is bottle-fed.  This might be because a nursing mother
can't see the amount of milk her baby is taking, so she doesn't force
the baby to take every last drop of milk as bottle-feeding mothers
sometimes do.
   Another advantage of breast-feeding is that nursing mothers don't
have to buy, prepare and sterilize bottles and formula.  Breast-feeding
also helps new mothers return to their pre-pregnancy weights because
of the extra calories needed for milk production.
   Nursing mothers also report that the time spent breast-feeding
their babies is a special time for mother and baby.  This closeness is
another advantage of breast-feeding.
   Breast-feeding gives babies a good start on life.  It can be a
wonderful experience for mother and baby.
   You can get more information about proper nutrition for infants
and children from the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Alcoholism and Nutrition. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2502
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2502, "Alcoholism and Nutrition."
   The chronic alcoholic is a high risk for developing many nutritional
deficiencies.  Alcoholics sometimes consume as much as 20 percent of
their total calories in alcohol.  A diet high in alcohol is nutritionally
inadequate in many respects.
   The nutrients most often lacking among heavy drinkers are protein,
the B vitamins (such as thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, pyridoxine and folic
acid), and minerals such as magnesium, potassium and zinc.  Alcoholics
are likely to suffer from any of three nutritional deficiencies.  These
deficiencies are polyneuropathy, which is a thiamin deficiency;
pellagra, which is a niacin deficiency; and fatty liver, which is caused
by eating too little protein.  Fatty liver can lead to cirrhosis, a liver
condition which may be fatal.
   Because the alcoholic substitutes alcohol for food, the individual
may develop one of these deficiencies.  The more calories consumed as
alcohol, the less food is eaten.  Even though an alcoholic may satisfy
his appetite with calories obtained from alcohol, he may not get
enough vitamins, minerals and proteins.  Alcohol, which is high in
calories, has no other nutrients.  One gram of alcohol supplies 7
calories, as compared to one gram of carbohydrate or protein, both of
which supply 4 calories.  One gram of fat supplies 9 calories.
   Heavy drinkers may also damage their intestinal tracts.  This
damage to the intestinal tract may lessen the body's ability to absorb
what nutrients are consumed.  
The best rule to follow in regard to alcohol is:  use moderation.               
At social events, make available non-alcoholic drinks such as fruit
juice, soft drinks, coffee or tea.  Eating food while drinking can slow
down the rate your body absorbs alcohol.  Eating can also lessen the
effects resulting from drinking on an empty stomach.
   If you're pregnant, don't drink.  No safe level of alcohol intake
during pregnancy has been established, so it's better to avoid alcohol
completely during pregnancy.  If you're taking a drug of any kind,
don't drink.  Alcohol can either increase the potency of certain drugs
or destroy the effectiveness of the drug altogether.  Either situation
can cause serious illness or death.
   For more information and suggestions about food and nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Balanced Diets for the Elderly. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2503
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2503, "Balanced Diets for the Elderly."
   Eating good food should be one of the pleasures of life at any age.
Food plays an important role in our lives and may even take on
special meanings for some us.
   The nutritional needs of the mature person and older adult aren't
much different from those of the young adult.  However, some of the
changes that develop in the older adult may affect food intake and
may also affect how the body uses food and nutrients.  The major
change in recommended daily allowances for the older adult is a
decrease in the amount of calories eaten.  The recommendations for
vitamins and minerals remain about the same for young adults and
older adults.
   Nutritional well-being may be affected by some of the body changes
that may accompany aging.  Food may not taste or smell the same as
in earlier years because of a decreased sense of taste and smell.  Poor
vision may make foods look differently.  Swallowing may be more
difficult because of a decrease in saliva or because of decreased
muscle tone.  Dental problems such as missing teeth or ill-fitting
dentures may cause chewing problems.  Constipation and indigestion
are more prevalent among older adults.  Because the body slows down,
fewer calories are needed to maintain desirable weight.  All of these
factors may affect the nutritional well-being of the elderly, as may
other health problems such as diabetes or heart disease in which salt,
sweets and fats may be restricted. 
To get enough vitamins and minerals, foods from the basic food                  
groups must be included in the diet.  These include the milk-cheese
group, the vegetable-fruit group, the bread-cereal group and the group
which includes meat, poultry, fish and beans.  A fifth group, the fats,
sweets and alcohol group, provides calories but few nutrients.  Use
fats, sweets and alcohol sparingly.
   The milk-cheese group provides calcium, protein, riboflavin and
vitamins A and D.  Choosing skim milk or low-fat milk can reduce
calories without reducing nutrients.  Eat two servings from the milk-
cheese group daily.
   The vegetable-fruit group provides vitamin C, as in citrus fruits,
melons, berries and greens, and vitamin A, as in dark green and
yellow vegetables.  The vegetable-fruit group also provides fiber to
help prevent constipation.  Eat four servings from the vegetable-fruit
group daily.
   The bread-cereal group includes whole grain and enriched breads
and cereals.  These foods are important sources of B vitamins, iron,
fiber and some protein.  Eat foods from the bread-cereal group three
or four times daily, even when you're counting calories.
   Meat, fish, poultry and beans supply protein, iron and some B
vitamins.  You need two servings from this group daily.
   Besides supplying good nutrition, eating should be fun.  If you're
alone, you may want to add pleasure to eating by sharing meals with
friends.  Eating by a window where the view is pleasing is a good
idea, as is eating in a park, on your porch or on the lawn.  Preparing
an attractive tray and listening to your favorite music is another way
to add pleasure to meal time.  Eating out occasionally, especially with
friends, is another way to enjoy meals more.
   For more information about diets and nutrition, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Breakfast for a Good Start. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/26/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2504
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2504,
"Breakfast for a Good Start."
   The word "breakfast" means breaking or ending the fast that began
after your evening meal the day before...which may have been eight to
ten hours.  Eating breakfast can help you perform better and feel
better during your morning hours.
   Studies have shown that children who eat breakfast are more alert,
and work better in school than their classmates who don't eat
breakfast.
   Eating something for breakfast is a lot better than eating
nothing...even if you something is nothing more than a glass of juice.
But, if you want guidelines for a healthy breakfast, choose foods from
at least three of the four food groups.  Just in case you've forgotten
the four food groups...they're fruits and vegetables....breads and
cereals....milk and cheese...and meats and meat alternates.
   Now, breakfast doesn't have to be the traditional cereal and
milk...or eggs...especially if you prefer something else.  There's nothing
wrong with a hamburger for breakfast....or a sandwich made with
leftovers with a glass of milk or a glass of juice.  Breakfast is a good
meal to meet your daily need for vitamin C with a citrus fruit or
glass of citrus fruit juice.
   If you don't have time to prepare much breakfast, try keeping on
hand some foods that are quickly prepared...such as cereal and milk,
canned fruit juice, or muffins and rolls.  For those occasions when
family members are late for work or school, you can snack on the
go...with breakfasts of fresh fruits, a peanut butter sandwich, hard
cooked or deviled eggs, muffins, or cheese and crackers.
 
Remember, it's important that you eat something for breakfast to   dgoodng      
give you the energy you need for morning activities.  It's not so
important what you eat...as long as you eat foods that provide the
nutrients you need.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cholesterol -- Questions and Answers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2505
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2505, "Cholesterol -- Questions and Answers."
   What is cholesterol?  Cholesterol is a substance produced in the
liver which is needed to form cell membranes, nerve coatings and
certain hormones.  Our bodies usually produce enough cholesterol to
take care of these needs, but we also get cholesterol from certain
foods.  For many people, increased cholesterol intake means higher
levels of blood cholesterol.
   When cholesterol circulates in the blood, it is bound to protein.
One type of protein-bound cholesterol is called high density
lipoprotein (HDL).  High density lipoprotein, or HDL, appears to
protect against heart disease.  Another type, low density lipoprotein
(LDL), seems to be associated with an increased risk of heart disease.
Heredity plays a role in whether or not a person has more high
density or low density lipoprotein.  Levels of low density lipoprotein,
that associated with increased risk, seem to be influenced by the
amount of fat and cholesterol in the diet, but high density lipoprotein
levels do not.  Research shows that protective high density lipoprotein
levels can be increased with exercise, weight reduction and by not
smoking.
   What foods contain cholesterol?  Cholesterol is found in cell
membranes of animal foods.  Egg yolks and organ meats contain the
most cholesterol.  Meat and milk also contain some cholesterol.
Cholesterol cannot be trimmed from meat like fat can, because it is
distributed throughout.  Low-fat milk products provide lower amounts
of cholesterol than whole milk or cream. 
How does fat in the diet affect cholesterol in the blood?  Saturated            
fats, those fats found in animal products and coconut and palm oils,
may increase the amount of cholesterol in the blood, and
polyunsaturated fats, those fats found in vegetable products, may
reduce blood levels of cholesterol.
   Should you cut down on fat and cholesterol?  In countries where
people have high cholesterol and high saturated fat intakes, blood
cholesterol levels are higher and there are more cases of coronary
heart disease.
   There are individual differences, however.  Some people can eat
large amounts of cholesterol and saturated fat and still have normal
blood cholesterol levels.  Others may have high blood cholesterol
levels even though their diets are low in fat and cholesterol.  Other
risk factors such as high blood pressure, obesity, smoking and lack of
exercise are associated with heart disease in addition to blood
cholesterol levels.
   Many nutrition experts believe that for our relatively sedentary
lifestyle, it's smart to reduce dietary fat and cholesterol.  This can be
done by selecting lean cuts of meat, trimming fat, using low-fat dairy
products and using moderate amounts of fats and oils.
   You can get more information about diet and nutrition from the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Contraceptives And Nutrition. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2506
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2506, "Contraceptives And Nutrition."
   Oral contraceptives have been widely used since the sixties.  With
the widespread use of these medications, there has been much interest
in the possible effects of oral contraceptives on nutritional status.
   The oral contraceptives in common use contain varying proportions
of estrogens and progestogens.  The metabolic effects of these
medications are similar in some respects to those of pregnancy.
   Numerous studies have been done on the metabolic changes
occurring from the use of oral contraceptives, but these reports have
often been contradictory. Biochemical changes have been shown to
occur with the use of oral contraceptives, but actual clinical signs of
nutritional deficiency are rare.
   The biochemical changes are more likely to be seen in women
whose nutritional status is poor rather than in those who are well-
nourished.  Some of these changes include both increases and
decreases in body concentrations of nutrients.
   Considerable emphasis has been placed on Vitamin B-6 for oral
contraceptive users.  Alterations in the metabolism of Vitamin B-6
have been shown to occur in some women using oral contraceptives.
However, the Food and Nutrition Board of the National Research
Council did not recommend increasing the recommended dietary
allowance of Vitamin B-6 for oral contraceptive users in the most
recent revision of these guidelines.
   Evidence indicates that changes observed for Vitamin B-6 and other
nutrients in contraceptive users can be reversed by improvement of
diet alone. Routine supplements of Vitamin B-6 and other nutrients do
not seem to be justified.  Foods eaten in the recommended amounts
from the basic food groups -- including milk, meat, poultry, fish and
beans, breads and cereals, and fruits and vegetables -- will provide
the nutrients needed for good health.            For more
information about nutrition and health, contact the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Diabetic Diets. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2507
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2507, "Diabetic Diets."
   If you or a member of your family has diabetes, the responsibility
of preparing meals may, at first, seem overwhelming.  There are many
questions about diabetic diets.  One of the most commonly asked
questions is:  Why is a special diet needed for diabetes?  The answer
is that in diabetes, the body does not produce enough insulin to use
the sugar obtained from digesting food.  A diabetic diet includes well-
balanced meals and snacks which help to control blood sugar levels.
   Another common question is:  What types of foods can be eaten on
a diabetic diet?  The answer is that a variety of foods must be
included: milk, vegetables, fruits, breads, cereals, meats and fats.
Your doctor will decide on the number of calories you need and then
prescribe a diet with a certain number of calories and specific amounts
of protein, carbohydrates and fats.  A registered dietitian or diet
counselor can help you plan meals for a diabetic diet.
   People also ask questions about diabetic diet exchanges.  Foods for
the diabetic are divided into lists of similar types of foods called
exchange lists.  These exchange lists include the meat exchange, bread
exchange, milk exchange, fruit exchange, vegetable exchange and fat
exchange.  Foods within each exchange group may be substituted for
one another if the appropriate serving size is used.  For example:  In
the bread exchange, one slice of bread can be substituted for one-half
cup of grits. 
Some people wonder why diabetics must measure the amount of                     
food they eat.  Diabetics measure foods so that they meet, but do not
exceed, the prescribed number of calories and amounts of protein,
carbohydrates and fats.  The amount of food prescribed will help to
make sure that weight stays at normal levels and that blood sugar
levels are controlled.  Diabetics who take insulin must be especially
careful to eat the exact amounts of food listed on the diet.  Insulin is
prescribed to take care of a certain amount of food, and if the
correct amount of food is not eaten, an insulin reaction can occur.
   Diabetics often ask why their diets include bread, potatoes, rice
and other cereals.  Often they think they're not supposed to eat
starchy foods.  Actually, certain amounts of carbohydrates, protein and
fats are required on a diabetic diet.  In fact, most diabetic diets are
made up of about 50% carbohydrates, 20% protein and 30% fat.  The
carbohydrates on a diabetic diet are primarily complex carbohydrates,
including fruits, vegetables and whole grain breads and cereals.  These
complex carbohydrates in prescribed amounts are thought to produce
relatively small changes in blood sugar levels.
   Diabetics may want to know why they can't eat sweets and
desserts.  The answer is that simple sugars found in most desserts are
usually thought to produce rapid rises in blood sugar levels that
require large doses of insulin to control.  So, sweets are usually
restricted.  New research suggests that when diabetics eat sugar with
a meal, blood sugar levels do not change greatly.  More research is
needed, however, and diabetics should ask their doctors before
changing their diets. 
Diabetics often want to know if they can use low-calorie                        
sweeteners safely.  Two low-calorie sweeteners -- saccharin and
aspartame -- are on the market, but they shouldn't be used in
unlimited amounts by diabetics because they contain small amounts of
dextrin or lactose, which are natural sugars.  Saccharin has also been
reported to cause bladder cancer in animals.  Check with your doctor
about using low-calorie sweeteners.
   Dietetic sweets like candies, cakes, ice cream and pastries are not
recommended for diabetics because they may actually contain more
calories than products sweetened with sugar.  Many dietetic products
contain fat, flour and sweeteners that should not be eaten freely on a
diabetic diet and, when they are eaten, must be calculated in the diet.
These products are expensive, too.
   Diabetics can eat in restaurants but sometimes it's wise to check
before going out to make sure that a particular restaurant can
accommodate special requests.  Diabetics should choose lean meat,
chicken or fish which has been roasted, broiled or grilled.  Vegetables
should be unbuttered and uncreamed.  Lemon wedges can be used for
seasoning.  Fruit may take the place of dessert.
   The main objective of a diabetic diet is to maintain relatively
constant blood sugar levels, so it's not O.K. to skip a meal and eat
more at the next meal.  This can be especially dangerous for a person
on insulin.
   Actually, the entire family can benefit from a diabetic diet because
it's based on wholesome, well-balanced foods which include milk, meat,
vegetables, fruits, breads, cereals and fats.  If everyone in the family
eats the same foods as the diabetic, life is easier for the person
preparing the food and more enjoyable for the diabetic.  Diabetic
recipe books have a variety of recipes with exchanges listed for the
whole family to enjoy.
   You can get more information and suggestions about food, nutrition
and diets from the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Diet for Expectant Mothers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2508
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2508, "Diet for Expectant Mothers."
   When you first learn that you are pregnant, you begin to think
about how you will care for your baby, how you will dress it and how
you will decorate the nursery.  The most important way you can care
for your baby before it comes, however, is to take care of yourself
and eat well.
   If you're pregnant, your nutritional needs will change as your body
changes and as your baby begins to grow.  You'll need extra nutrients
to take care of your baby's needs and for your own body, especially if
you plan to nurse your infant.  Current research shows that expectant
mothers should gain about 24 to 28 pounds during the nine months of
pregnancy, so pregnancy is not the time to diet. Pregnant women
should gain about one pound a month during the first three months
and about three-fourths of a pound a week for the last six months.
   You'll need more calories while you're pregnant, but the extra
calories should come from foods such as milk and milk products, lean
meat, poultry, fish, dried peas and beans, nuts, fruits and vegetables,
and whole grain breads and cereals.  Don't get your extra calories
from high calorie, low nutrient items like candy, cake and soft drinks.
   During pregnancy, your body will need extra protein to help form
your baby's tissues.  Get this extra protein from milk, cheese, meat,
poultry, fish, dried peas and beans.  Eat at least three servings every
day of these protein-rich foods while you are pregnant. 
Vitamin and mineral needs are also greater during pregnancy.                    
Expectant mothers should be sure to eat foods rich in vitamin C and
vitamin A.  Foods rich in vitamin C include citrus fruits, greens and
tomatoes.  Foods rich in vitamin A include carrots, spinach and sweet
potatoes.
   If you are pregnant, your blood volume will increase.  To make red
blood cells for this increased blood volume, you'll need foods that are
high in iron.  Iron-containing foods include liver, red meats, dried
peas and beans, fortified breads and cereals, and dark green
vegetables.  Eat some of these foods at each meal.  Besides eating
iron-rich foods, you'll need to eat foods rich in vitamin C because
vitamin C helps your body to use iron more effectively.
   You'll need more calcium, too, because it is used to form your
baby's bones.  Many nutritionists tell expectant mothers to drink a
quart of milk a day.  Other milk products have calcium, too, and you
can use them to provide the calcium you need.  Some dark green
vegetables contain calcium, but the body isn't always able to use this
calcium effectively.
   Doctors often prescribe vitamin and mineral supplements just in
case the increased needs caused by pregnancy aren't met.
   If constipation is a problem while you are pregnant, eat more high
fiber foods such as fruits, vegetables and whole grains.  Be sure you
drink enough fluids, too, because fluids help prevent constipation.
   If you are troubled by morning sickness, nausea or heartburn, try
these hints for relief:  Eat a few dry crackers before you get out of
bed in the morning.  Eat small, frequent meals and snacks instead of
three large meals a day. Drink liquids between, rather than with,
meals.
   Expectant mothers want a healthy, happy baby, and good nutrition
will play a major part in helping babies get the best possible start in
life.
   For more information about proper nutrition, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
-End-
-Title-
Dietary Fiber:  What is it? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2509
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2509, "Dietary Fiber:  What is it?"
   Among the U. S. Department of Agriculture Dietary Guidelines is
one which encourages the American public to eat foods with dietary
fiber.  Many people are asking:  What is dietary fiber and how do I
get it?
   Fiber is the tough plant material that can't be digested by human
digestive enzymes.  As a result, fiber is eliminated as waste material,
and is called roughage or bulk.  It includes cellulose, hemicellulose,
lignin, pectin, gum and other indigestible carbohydrates.
   There are two types of fiber, soluble and insoluble.  Soluble fiber
dissolves in water and gives either pectin -- found in many fruits --
or gum -- found in beans, oats and corn.  Insoluble fiber doesn't
dissolve in water, but instead absorbs it like a sponge.  The most
common insoluble fiber is bran, which is found in whole-grain breads
and cereals.
   Even though dietary fiber doesn't add any essential nutrients to the
body, its role in the diet is important because it provides bulk which
absorbs water in the large intestine.  This produces a large, soft stool
which moves through the digestive tract quickly and is eliminated
easily.  When the bowels move often and easily, constipation is
prevented. 
Diverticulosis, a condition in which pockets develop in the walls of            
the intestines, improves when diets are high in fiber.  A low fiber diet
will create a dry, compact stool that moves slowly through the
intestine.  The diverticuli, or pockets, may be produced because the
colon has to work hard to push the stool along.  If some of these
pockets become infected with particles of the stool, a painful
condition called diverticulitis develops.  A high fiber diet often
relieves diverticular disease. In countries where people routinely eat
many foods high in fiber, there is a much lower incidence of colon
cancer.
   Of course, diet isn't the only cause of an intestinal disease, but
there is general agreement that lack of sufficient fiber can be related
to many intestinal disorders.  Some studies have shown that high fiber
diets have improved the treatment of insulin-dependant diabetes, heart
disease and obesity.  Diets that contain excessive amounts of fiber
may have an adverse affect on mineral absorption, especially if the
overall diet isn't balanced.  High fiber diets may also mean increased
gas.  But, if the increase in fiber content isn't excessive, the benefits
will outweigh any negative points.
   For more information about diet and nutrition or for a free
pamphlet called "Dietary Fiber--Its Importance in Your Diet," call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                -30
-End-
-Title-
Differences Between Honey and Sugar. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2510
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2510, "Differences Between Honey and Sugar."
   If you're one of the many people trying to learn more about how
food affects your health, you may be asking if honey is more
nutritious than sugar.
   As far as your body is concerned, there seems to be very little
difference between the final fate of the two sweeteners.  Both honey
and table sugar are used in the body for either immediate energy or
for storage in the form of glycogen or fat.
   Honey seems to have no nutritional advantage over table sugar.
There are very small amounts of some trace minerals and vitamins in
honey that are not in table sugar, but the amounts of these minerals
and vitamins are so small they are of no significance.  For example,
one cup of honey supplies about the same amount of iron as two slices
of whole wheat bread.
   Research has shown that honey doesn't have any special health-
giving properties.  In fact, a few cases of infant botulism have been
reported due to mothers adding honey to their infants' bottles.  You
shouldn't feed honey to infants until they're at least one year old.
   Table sugar is called sucrose which, during digestion, breaks down
into two single sugars called glucose and fructose.  Honey also breaks
down into glucose and fructose, but honey produces more fructose
than glucose.
   Fructose is about twice as sweet as glucose.  So, some people
report they use less honey than table sugar to sweeten beverages
because of the honey's sweeter taste.  However, the difference in the
amounts used is normally so small that it's probably no real savings in
calories.
 
Fructose is absorbed in the body more slowly than glucose and its    ints       
first stage of metabolism doesn't require insulin....so, because of this,
at one time it was hoped that fructose would be of some advantage to
diabetics.  However, the final use of fructose by body tissues is
through the same pathway as glucose and does require insulin.
   The main treatment of non-insulin dependent diabetics is the
control of total calories and the maintenance of the ideal body weight.
Since fructose provides calories, it must be exchanged for other
calories in the diet prescription and its use must be limited.
   For more information and suggestions about nutrition and diet, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Differences in Plant and Animal Protein. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2511
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2511, "Differences in Plant and Animal Protein."
   Protein is a part of all body cells and is involved in the growth,
maintenance and repair of body tissues.  Foods containing protein
should be an important part of your diet.
   Proteins are made up of building blocks called amino acids.  There
are 22 amino acids that make up body protein.  Of these 22, nine are
essential amino acids.  The essential amino acids must enter the body
as food, because the body doesn't make enough of them to meet its
need for growth.
   For the body to use protein for building, repairing and
maintenance, all amino acids must be present in the right amounts.
Foods which contain all of the essential amino acids in the needed
amounts are called complete proteins.  Complete protein is found in
animal food sources, including meat, poultry, fish, milk and milk
products.
   The protein in many plant foods doesn't have all of the amino
acids or has inadequate amounts of some of them.  These incomplete
proteins include plant foods such as vegetables, grains, beans, peas and
nuts.  Complete proteins are considered to be higher in quality than
incomplete proteins.
   Because all incomplete proteins do not lack the same amino acids,
you can combine them in ways that will improve their quality.  In
other words, eating a food that is lacking in one amino acid with
another food that has plenty of that particular amino acid will give
you a complete protein.  The incomplete proteins will complement each
other. 
You can make these complimentary combinations by putting certain                
vegetable protein foods together or by putting a vegetable protein
with an animal protein.  Macaroni and cheese is a great example of a
combination plant and animal protein.  Vegetable proteins which can
be combined to increase protein quality include such popular foods as
beans and rice, beans and corn, or baked beans and brown bread.
This mixing and matching of foods will give you complete proteins
which are nutritious and economical.
   If you would like more information about food and nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Effective Weight Loss Diets. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2513
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2513, "Effective Weight Loss Diets."
   Americans spend millions of dollars every year in their efforts to
become attractive, healthy and slim.  Crash diets and fads are
promoted as quick reducing programs and cure-alls.  But money spent
on crash diets and fads is wasted, because little or no weight is lost.
   If you're serious about losing weight and improving your health,
follow these guidelines:
   -- Choose meals and snacks from the four basic nutritional groups
each day to meet your food needs.
   -- Select at least two milk products daily.  Milk provides protein
for building and repairing, and it provides calcium for strong bones
and teeth.  Good, low-calorie sources of calcium and protein are skim
milk, low-fat milk, cottage cheese and plain yogurt.
   -- Eat two or three small servings of lean meat, fish, poultry,
eggs, dried peas and beans daily.  These foods provide iron, which is
important for building red blood cells and protein your body needs.
   -- Eat fruits and vegetables often.  Fresh fruit or fruits canned in
their natural juice or water are especially good for dieters.  Fruits
and vegetables also provide fiber, which is important for regular
elimination.  Citrus fruits, tomatoes and raw cabbage provide vitamin
C for materials which hold body cells together.  Dark green
vegetables, such as spinach and greens, and dark yellow vegetables,
such as squash and carrots, are good sources of vitamin A.  Vitamin
A is needed for healthy skin and good night vision.  
-- Don't forget to include three or four servings of whole grain                
breads and cereals.  You need these every day, even when you are
dieting.  Whole grain breads and cereals provide B vitamins, energy
and fiber.
   Other tips that will help you be well-nourished and yet have a slim
figure include the following:
   -- Instead of eating lunch at a fast food restaurant, pack a brown
bag lunch that includes a sandwich, fresh fruit, raw vegetables and
milk.
   -- Choose snacks wisely, if you eat between meals.  Great snacks
include fresh fruits, raw vegetables, juices and skim milk.  These are
much lower in calories than cake, cookies, candy, chips and cold
drinks.  They are also more nutritious.
   -- If you're counting calories, be sure you bake, broil or boil foods
instead of frying them.
   -- Low-calorie, nutritious desserts for dieters include fruits or
custards and puddings made with skim or low-fat milk.
   -- Try an exercise program, perhaps walking.  Walking fast for one
or two miles about five times a week can help to burn up calories and
increase heart endurance.  Always check with your doctor before
beginning any exercise program.
   For more information about safe, effective weight loss programs,
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Encouraging Your Child to Eat Properly. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/26/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2514
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2514,
"Encouraging Your Child to Eat Properly."
   Once your children form eating habits, it's very difficult to change
them.  So, it's most important that the habits they form are good
ones.
   Generally, children learn their eating habits from their parents...so,
it's important for you...as a parent...to set a good example.  If you can
eat a candy bar and a soft drink for lunch...why can't they?
   You can encourage your child to eat properly by offering a variety
of foods from each of the food groups.  Occasionally, offer new foods
and serve them more attractively than usual.
   Encouraging your child to eat properly is a good idea...but, making
a child "clean his plate" is not always the most healthy habit to
promote.  This can lead to overeating by that child and this may
cause problems later in life.  Children will generally stop eating when
they're full.
   You can help your children form good eating habits if you keep
nutritious foods available in the house.  Children like and need
snacks...so, be sure the snacks they get are nutritious.  Snacks such as
raw fruits and vegetables, unsweetened fruit juices, milk, cheese and
meats, peanut butter and crackers, and unsalted nuts and seeds are
good to keep on hand.  Popcorn, with little or no salt and fat, makes
a good substitute for chips.
   You should help your children realize that sometimes they can eat
foods that have little nutrition...such as chips and sweets...but they are
not to take the place of other more nutritious foods.
 
Encourage your children to start the day with a good nutritious   they are      
breakfast.  Studies show that children who eat breakfast are more
alert and learn better during the morning hours than those who don't
eat breakfast.  Remember that you're not limited to cereal and milk or
eggs.  Any nutritious foods that your child likes can be served for
breakfast...peanut butter on toast, cheese toast, or leftover sandwiches.
   Children who help prepare their own foods may be more interested
in eating them...so if your patience will permit...let your child help
prepare the dinner salad, or make the meatloaf, or prepare mini-pizzas
for an afternoon snack.  Again, encourage the preparation of
nutritious foods.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Fast Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2515
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2515, "Fast Foods."
   Consumers demand fast-food outlets, but fast food doesn't have to
be junk food.  About 140,000 fast-food outlets in the United States
account for 45 percent of the restaurants available to hungry
consumers.  Americans spend about $23 billion a year on favorites like
hamburgers, french fries, milk shakes, pizza, chicken and tacos sold by
fast-food restaurants.  They are attracted by the quick service,
relatively inexpensive prices, taste and consistency offered by fast
food-restaurants.
   Fast foods aren't necessarily junk foods.  Fast foods are full of
nutrients, but not necessarily those we want to eat in large quantities.
If you choose fast foods carefully, you don't have to let them become
a dietary danger.  It's possible to get protein, iron, certain B vitamins
and calcium from fast foods, but it's equally possible to get too much
fat, sugar and sodium and too many calories.
   A recent U. S. Department of Agriculture study found most fast-
food main dishes, french fries and sauces to be high in fat, and it
found desserts and milk shakes high in fat and sugar.  Also, these
foods lack fiber, which is an important element in a good diet.  The
fast-food chains which have added salad bars have increased the
nutritional benefits of their meals.
   The high sodium content of most fast foods can be a drawback for
people who must restrict their sodium intake.  Just one fast-food meal
can supply all the sodium a persons needs for a day.
   To enjoy fast-food meals and reduce their potential nutritional
disadvantages, follow these rules:               1.  Eat a variety of
foods instead of one favorite all the time, and add plenty of fruits,
vegetables, and whole grain and dairy products to the meals you eat at
home.
   2.  Maintain ideal body weight.  Fast foods can be high in calories,
so order the small size of french fries instead of the large, for
example, to keep the calories down.  Order small milk shakes and soft
drinks.
   3.  Try to avoid fats by doing without mayonnaise and sauces.
   4.  Eat foods with starch and fiber, such as salad vegetables.
   5.  Drink skim milk or orange juice instead of soda.

   If the fast-food outlet offers only a limited menu, it's harder to
choose foods wisely, but you can speak up and ask for the foods you'd
like to see served.  Competition between fast-food chains is getting
stronger, so many are trying harder to please health-conscious
customers.
   If enough people ask for skim milk, orange juice, unsalted french
fries, whole wheat buns, more salad bars and fresh fruit, the items
may begin to appear on menus.  Consumers are asking for more
information on nutrition, and the industry is starting to respond.
   If you would like to have more information about nutrition and the
foods which make up a healthful diet, call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Feeding Solid Foods to Babies. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2516
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2516, "Feeding Solid Foods to Babies."
   Although many parents are eager for their babies to start eating
solid foods, most doctors advise parents not to start feeding their
babies solid foods until they are at least three months old.  Some
doctors want parents to wait until six months to start babies on
solids.
   Feeding babies solid foods before three months may result in
problems like allergic reactions or overweight.  When babies start
eating solid foods too early, they may fill up on food and not drink
enough milk.  This could mean they will grow slowly because they
aren't getting enough protein.  Breast milk or formula provides all of
the nutrients in the proper form, and it's all most infants need for
the first few months.
   Baby's first food is usually cereal -- rice cereal, barley or oatmeal.
Start by feeding one or two tablespoons of cereal mixed with formula.
Feed this mixture with a spoon, not from a bottle or infant feeder.
Babies need to learn to eat from a spoon.  Boxed cereals are more
nutritious and less expensive than those packaged in jars, so start
your baby on boxed cereal.
   Vegetables and fruits will probably be the next foods your baby
will eat, and you can use those you prepare at home or you can buy
commercial products.  Offer only one new food to baby at a time.
Try it for three or four days at a time so you can see if an allergic
reaction develops.  Allergic reactions include hives, vomiting or
diarrhea.  Fruit juices may be started with fruits, but many doctors
advise your waiting until your baby is about a year old to start citrus
juice or fruit
 
Meats are usually started after vegetables and fruits, and these,   rusl.e      
too, may be prepared at home or bought.  Choose single ingredient
commercial meats, not combinations, for your baby's first meats.
Items like chicken and noodles or vegetables and beef have less
protein than single meat products.
   When your baby begins to eat solid foods, try to make feeding time
a relaxing time.  Don't try to feed other hungry children at the same
time.  You might want to give baby a little formula or breast milk so
he'll be hungry, but not starving.  Then feed solids and finish with
more milk.
   For more information about the proper foods for your baby, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Feeding Your Preschool Child. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/26/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2517
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2517,
"Feeding Your Preschool Child."
   No single food will provide your preschool age children with all the
nutrients needed for them to grow as they should.  Children need
foods from each of the four required food groups...just as adult do.
   Here are the servings your children should get to maintain healthy
growth...four servings from the fruit and vegetable group which
includes all fruits and vegetables.
   Four servings from the bread and cereal group which includes
whole grain or enriched breads, cereals, crackers, grits, macaroni,
spaghetti, rice, and oats.
   Three servings from the milk and cheese group which includes milk
in any form plus yogurt, ice cream, ice milk, and cheeses...including
cottage cheese.
   Two servings from the meat group which includes meat, poultry,
fish, dry beans or peas, nuts, peanut butter, and seeds.
   Children also need plenty of water.  Offer them water between
meals.  As for sweets...remember that children are born with a
preference for sweet foods, so try not to encourage too many sweets
at the expense of other foods.
   If you have trouble getting your pre-school children to
eat...remember that their senses of taste and smell are very sharp.
They prefer mainly mild-flavored and lightly-seasoned foods.
   Here are some things to keep in mind when you're offering food to
your children...
   Children like food textures that are soft and moist, smooth, or
crispy like raw fruits and vegetables.  Tough or stringy meats turn
them off.
 
Children like attractive foods with bright colors.  Sometimes   urnogusl.e      
decorating a food such as cereal with a smiley face...or serving it on a
pretty plate will help.
   Children generally like foods that are unmixed and plain.  But they
do like spaghetti and macaroni and cheese.
   Children like foods that are in bite-size pieces.  So, cut meats into
finger slices, serve raw vegetables and fruit pieces, cut toast into
manageable pieces.
   Also, you should remember that children have little appetites.
Don't overwhelm them with adult-size servings, and serve them in
child size plates and cups.  This can make a big difference.
   Child-size servings should include about...one-half cup of milk or
other liquid...one to two ounces of meat....one-fourth cup cooked cereal
or one-half cup of ready-to-eat cereal...one slice of bread...and two to
four tablespoons of vegetables and fruits.
   Try serving new foods in very small amounts, too.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Food Additives. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2518
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2518,
"Food Additives."
   Food additives are used only to maintain or to improve quality of
food or to give it some added quality that consumers want.  The Food
and Drug Administration monitors the use of additives and allows them
to be used only if proven information has shown that the additive will
accomplish the intended effect in the food.  Also, the amount used
cannot be more than is needed  to accomplish the intended effect in
the food.
   Additives are used to achieve one or a combination of four
purposes...to maintain or improve nutritional value...to maintain
freshness...to help in processing or preparation...or to  make food more
appealing.
   Without additives or preservatives, some food would soon spoil or it
would taste bland.  If some foods were not made storable, there might
be considerable waste of food.  Also, if some foods aren't stored
properly they can cause illnesses.
   Here are some of the additives which  benefit food.
Nutrient supplements.  Vitamins and minerals are added to foods to
make them more nutritious and sometimes to replace those nutrients
lost during processing.  Examples...bread that has been "enriched," milk
with vitamin D added and margarine with vitamins A and D added.
   Non-nutritive sweeteners are added to some foods...these in the
form of sugar substitutes.
   Preservatives.  There are several kinds of preservatives which are
effective in preventing spoilage in a particular type of food or against
a particular organism.
 
Emulsifiers.  These products improve the uniformity of a food...the   st.e      
fineness of grain...the smoothness and body of foods such as bakery
goods, ice creams and confectionery products.
   Stabilizers and thickeners.  These products add smoothness, color
uniformity and flavor uniformity to such things as ice creams,
chocolate milk and artificially sweetened beverages.  Stabilizers and
thickeners are labeled as pectins, vegetable gums and gelatins.
   Flavors and flavoring agents.  Some of these such as spices and
liquid derivatives of onion, garlic, cloves and peppermint enhance
flavor.  Synthetic flavorings which resemble natural flavors have been
developed and these have the advantage of being more stable than
natural flavors.
   Bleaching agents and maturing agents.  These speed the aging
process which improves the breadmaking quality of flour.  Freshly
milled flour is yellowish and makes very poor bread.
   Colors.  Although colors don't improve eating quality they are
considered important.  The chances are you're so used to food being a
specific color that you would refuse to buy it if it were some other
color.
   Additives have many other uses too.  These uses include hardening,
drying, leavening, anti-foaming, firming, crisping, anti-sticking,
whipping, creaming, clarifying and sterilizing.
   Without additives to help in the processing of food, today's grocery
stores would need a lot less room to sell what foods would be left.
Tested and approved food additives are a part of today's modern food
technology.
   For more information and suggestions about nutrition, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Food Fads and Fallacies. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2519
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2519, "Food Fads and Fallacies."
   The promotion of nutrition misinformation has become a multi-
billion dollar business.  There's almost no end to the nutrition tests
and treatments, special foods and food supplements, pills, gadgets,
diets, books and magazines that are produced daily to take advantage
of the public's new health and fitness awareness.
   Health quacks capitalize on people's fears...fears that they're being
poisoned by food additives and pollution...and fears that their diets are
being adversely affected by modern processing methods.  These quacks
capitalize on people's hopes...hopes of looking and feeling young
forever...of being free from illness...and of performing at exceptional
levels.  Health quacks seem to have all the answers.  "Super nutrition"
is the magic cure for any all problems.
   Let's try to burst eight of the bubbles of common food myths...
   The first one...athletes need more protein than the average person.
False--Exercise increases the need for calories...or energy...not protein.
Also, muscles increase in size with stimulation...not excess protein.
   The second...if small amounts of a vitamin are good for you, then
large amounts are even better.
False--Taking more vitamins than your body needs does not do it any
good.  Extra amounts of water-soluble vitamins...B complex and vitamin
C...are excreted.  Too much of  fat-soluble vitamins...A,D,E or K...can
be toxic.
 
The third...foods grown with chemical pesticides and fertilizers are   in.      
slowly poisoning us.
False--The proper application of pesticides insures that the chemical
level is harmless before the crop is harvested.  Chemical fertilizers
supply the same chemical elements that natural fertilizers supply.  Soil
condition, fertilizers and pesticides all affect crop yield...not
nutritional quality.
   The fourth...large doses of vitamin C...ascorbic acid...will cure the
common cold.
False--The claims that vitamin C cures colds are still being studied.
Excessive intake of ascorbic acid...or vitamin C...may lead to kidney
stone formation.
   The fifth...hair analysis can be used to diagnose a need for vitamins
and minerals.
False--Hair analysis is a waste of money because the state of your
body's health may be completely unrelated to the chemical composition
of your hair.  There are no vitamins in hair and the mineral
composition is affected by many other factors.
   The sixth...bee pollen can boost athletic performance.
False--Tests, including one conducted at LSU with the swimming team,
have shown that bee pollen offers no benefits over a balanced diet.
It is expensive and what is worse, it can cause dangerous allergic
reactions.
   The seventh...vinegar makes you lose weight by melting away your
fat.
False--Fat cannot be melted away by vinegar, grapefruit juice, or any
other acid.  Exercise and a lower calorie diet can use up the calories
stored as fat.
 
And finally, the eighth..."natural" foods--those without chemical   esnsn.      
additives--are better for you than foods containing additives.
False--Foods packaged without additives or preservative are no more
healthful than others.  Additives must now pass extensive tests before
they can be used to help maintain the quality and safety of a product.
Research doesn't support claims that additives cause hyperactivity in
children.  Treatment should be directed by a physician.
   If you hear some claim which promises miraculous results...or
belittles the medical profession or normal foods...or appeals to your
emotions...you should question its usefulness.
   You can get more information about diet and nutrition from the
home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Foods High in Dietary Fiber. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2520
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2520, "Foods High in Dietary Fiber."
   Dietary fiber is the indigestible part of plants that has a definite
benefit in treating and preventing constipation.  Eating more foods
which are high in dietary fiber has also been linked to preventing and
treating other health problems such as colon cancer and diverticular
disease, but evidence is incomplete and inconclusive at this time.
   Dietary fiber occurs naturally in all plant foods including grains,
fruits, vegetables, nuts, peas and beans.  People in developed countries
generally eat fewer foods with dietary fiber, mainly because they eat
less cereal grain.  Although fiber adds no essential nutrients to the
body, it does play an important role in the diet.
   Foods which are high in fiber include: peas and beans; fresh, raw
fruits and vegetables (especially sweet potatoes and Irish potatoes
cooked in their skins); and whole grain breads and cereals.  Bran, one
of the most common types of dietary fiber, is found in whole grain
breads and cereals.  Cereals that are one hundred percent bran usually
have about seven grams of fiber per ounce.  Cereals with bran in the
name contain less, but they do have more fiber than do other cereals.
   Eating a balanced diet which includes fruits, vegetables, whole
grain breads and cereals will give you adequate fiber and help to
promote a healthy lifestyle.
   If you would like to have more information about nutrition or if
you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Dietary Fiber--Its
Importance in Your Diet," call the home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Foods on a Low Sodium Diet. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2521
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2521, "Foods on a Low Sodium Diet."
   Salt is one of the most commonly used seasonings in America.  The
salt shaker is a common sight in most kitchens, and salt is also part
of many of the products that enter our homes.
   Table salt is a compound known as sodium chloride.  It is made up
of 40 percent sodium and 60 percent chlorine.  Sodium is an essential
mineral because your body needs it to maintain fluid balance and to
help transmit nerve impulses.  Sodium also helps muscle fibers to
contract and expand.  But, even though sodium is necessary, most
people probably eat more than they need.  The Food and Nutrition
Board of the National Academy of Sciences now recommends that we
eat only about 1100 to 3300 milligrams of sodium a day.  This is a
safe, adequate amount.
   Only one teaspoon of table salt contains about 2,000 milligrams of
sodium.  About one-fourth of most of our sodium intake comes from
salt added to food.  Sodium occurs naturally in foods, too, but usually
in small amounts.  If your doctor prescribes a low-sodium diet for you,
you'll be eating a lot of fresh fruits and vegetables.  But even certain
vegetables contain considerable amounts of sodium.  These include
artichokes, beets, beet greens, carrots, celery, mustard greens, spinach
and turnips.
   You'll also be eating meats, poultry, fish, peas, beans, bread,
cereals and milk products, but the amounts of some of these may be
limited because meat, poultry, fish, dairy products and eggs have
greater amounts of sodium than fresh fruits and vegetables.  Frozen
lima beans and frozen peas are also high in sodium. 
Processed foods are usually much higher in sodium than fresh                    
foods.  For example, a fresh tomato has only 14 milligrams of sodium
and one cup of commercial tomato soup has 932 milligrams.  A cup of
canned tomato sauce has 1,498 milligrams.  Many other foods have salt
added in processing.  These include cheese, bacon, sausage, ham,
pickles and sauerkraut.
   Packaged foods like mixes, cereals, canned food, chili sauce,
ketchup, mayonnaise and mustard, and frozen, prepared foods all
contain added sodium or salt.
   Reading labels can help you find other sources of salt. Some of the
most common sources of sodium used in processing are monosodium
glutamate, sodium benzoate and di-sodium phosphate.  If the label
doesn't give the exact amount of sodium, remember that ingredients
are listed in order of quantity.  If you're cutting down on sodium,
don't buy products if sodium is among the first three ingredients
listed.
   Baking powder and baking soda are almost as high in sodium as
table salt.  Many commercial antacids and alkalizers are high in
sodium and shouldn't be taken for heartburn by people who must
restrict sodium.
   The drinking water in some areas also has a high sodium content.
You can find out the sodium content of your drinking water by calling
your local health department.
   For more information about low sodium foods or for a free
pamphlet called "Sodium Sense," call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Iron, Functions and Sources. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2523
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2523,
"Iron, Functions and Sources."
   High school age and college age girls who appear pale, listless and
tired may be suffering from a malady called iron deficiency anemia.
This anemia can be caused by a lack of iron in their diets or by a
loss of blood in illness or injury.
   While young women are especially susceptible to iron deficiencies,
many school age children also have diets that are low in this
important mineral.  Iron helps your body build red blood cells by
producing a substance called hemoglobin.
   To prevent this shortage of iron and the tired feeling it causes,
it's important that these people should eat enough of the foods which
contain iron.  Generally, foods containing iron come from the more
colorful foods of three food groups.  Red meats such as beef, pork,
veal and lamb are good sources of iron.  Liver is perhaps one of the
best sources of iron...but it's really not that popular with many people.
Perhaps you can work it into your diet or your family's diet by
cooking it several different ways...such as frying it or grinding it and
mixing it with ground beef...or chopping it and putting it in meat
sauces or with liver spreads.
   You will find that egg yolks and dry beans are also good sources
for iron.
   If you're looking for iron in vegetables you should try the dark
green ones like chard, spinach, endive, mustard and turnip greens.
Collards, kale, and broccoli supply less iron than those just mentioned.
Dried fruits are good sources of iron...these include prunes, apricots,
dates, figs, peaches and raisins.  Whole grain and enriched breads and
cereals are good sources of iron. Iron is one of the nutrients used in
the enrichment process of these foods.
   To help your body absorb more of the iron you get in food you can
eat some kind of food high in vitamin C such as orange juice along
with the iron-rich food.  An example might be a glass of tomato juice
with a fresh spinach salad.  Another good combination is orange juice
with an egg for breakfast.  Not only will your body take in the iron,
it will also absorb more of it.
   For more information and suggestions about nutrition, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Junk Food. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2524
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2524, "Junk Food."
   The term "junk food" refers primarily to foods which contain a lot
of calories in the form of fat and sugar and relatively few other
nutrients.  Some foods which have been labeled as junk include:
pizza, hamburgers, french fries, ready-to-eat cereals, ice cream, candy,
gum and soft drinks.  Because junk really means "of little or no
significance," we may need to reconsider calling some of these foods
junk foods.
   For the most part, nutritionists agree that no food is truly
worthless.  There are, however, foods with limited nutritional value.
If a food contains large amounts of sugar or fat, its nutritional value
may be low.  These high fat, high sugar foods contain a lot of
calories but few nutrients.
   A better use of the term "junk" would be to describe total diets
rather than particular foods.  A diet made up mainly of foods
containing calories for energy but lacking in protein, vitamins and
minerals would be a poor diet, or a junk diet, because it would not
help insure good health.
   Proper selection of a variety of foods which contain recommended
nutrients is the best way to meet your body's needs.  These nutritious
foods include fruits, vegetables, breads, cereals, milk, milk products,
meat, poultry, fish, eggs, beans and peas.  If you need additional
calories, you can get them by eating foods high in fats, oils and
sugar.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition or for
a free pamphlet called "The Art of Snacking," call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Less Food into Adulthood. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2525
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2525, "Less Food into Adulthood."
   During the rapid growth years of infancy, childhood and
adolescence, the need for food energy is great.   Young children and
teen-agers are active, and they have periods of rapid growth.  This is
why it seems like they can eat everything they want and still stay
slim.
   Many people have a rude awakening when they reach adulthood,
however.  Even individuals who have always been able to eat all they
want without worrying about gaining weight may find the scale
showing a gain of a pound or two every time they weigh.  This slow,
steady weight gain is called "creeping obesity."
   One pound of body fat is equal to 3,500 calories above what your
body needs for maintenance.  This sounds like a lot of food, but just
100 extra calories a day (maybe a roll with butter) will give you the
extra 3,500 calories in a month.  These extra calories can mean a
weight gain of l pound a month, 12 pounds a year or 60 pounds in
five years.  That's why the slow, steady weight gain is called
"creeping obesity."
   We need fewer calories as we age, but we need the same amount of
other nutrients.  This means we need to eat adequate nutrients and
reduce calories at the same time.  Choosing meals and snacks from the
basic food groups, preparing food properly, and increasing physical
activity will help solve the problem of eating less and eating right. 
Nutrient requirements can be met by choosing foods from these                   
groups: Milk-Cheese Group, Vegetable-Fruit Group, Bread-Cereal Group
and the Meat, Poultry, Fish and Beans Group.  The fifth group, fats,
sweets and alcohol, provides calories but few nutrients.  Use caution
here.
   The Milk-Cheese Group supplies calcium, protein, riboflavin and
vitamins A and D.  Choose two servings from this group daily.  Skim
milk and low-fat milk can help reduce calories yet provide nutrients
needed.
   The Vegetable-Fruit Group provides fiber and vitamins A and C.
Choose four servings daily from this group.  Fruits and vegetables rich
in vitamin C include citrus fruits, melons, berries and greens.  Vitamin
A is found in dark green and yellow vegetables.
   The Bread-Cereal Group is an important source of the B vitamins,
iron and some protein.  Eat these foods daily, even when you're
dieting.  A slice of bread or one-half cup of rice has only 70 calories.
Include whole grain and enriched breads and cereals in your diet 3 or
4 times each day.
   The Meat, Poultry, Fish and Beans Group supplies protein, iron,
zinc and some B vitamins.  Eat two servings daily.  A serving is 2 to
3 ounces of cooked meat or 1 cup of beans.
   The way you prepare food can affect its calorie content.  Frying
adds calories, as do sauces and gravies.  Choose cooking methods such
as broiling, boiling or baking instead of frying.  Eat fruit for dessert
instead of sweets.
   Getting more exercise can help you control your weight.  Brisk
walking is excellent for people of all ages.  Be sure to check with
your doctor before starting an exercise program.
   You can get more information about diet and nutrition from the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Legumes:  A Protein Alternative. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2526
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2526, "Legumes:  A Protein Alternative."
   More and more people are realizing that legumes, peas, beans and
lentils, are delicious, versatile, economical and nutritious.  Dried peas
and beans are low in fat and cholesterol, high in fiber and they're an
excellent source of protein.  A one cup serving of dried peas or beans
provides about one-fourth of an adult's daily protein needs.
   Because of their high protein content, dried peas and beans are in
the Meat-Poultry-Fish-Beans group of the Daily Food Guide.  Two
servings from this group are needed each day.  With today's rising
food costs, dried peas and beans (at about 9 a serving -- based on a
price of 55 a pound) are an economical protein source.
   Protein is made up of building blocks called amino acids.  Nine of
these amino acids are called essential amino acids.  They cannot be
made by the body, so must be provided by the diet.  Only when all
nine essential amino acids are present in adequate amounts and in the
right proportion can they be used efficiently by the body.
   Foods from animal sources such as meat, fish, poultry, eggs and
dairy products provide adequate amounts of all of the essential amino
acids.  Foods from plant sources such as nuts, grains, beans and peas
also supply protein, but these plant-source foods may lack one or more
of the essential amino acids.  To complete the protein requirement
from plant-source foods, you may combine foods from plant sources.
Another way to make sure that you get adequate amounts of the
amino acids is to eat small amounts of plant and animal protein in
the same meal so they can balance any lack of amino acid in one of
the foods. 
For example:  A serving of grain, such as a cereal, potato, rice or             
corn, when eaten with a serving of peas or beans, supplies all nine
essential amino acids in the correct pattern.  A small amount of milk,
cheese, meat, poultry, fish or eggs will also balance the protein value
when eaten with beans or peas.
   Some of these nutritious food combinations are basics in many
cultures.  For example:  Mexicans eat corn and wheat tortillas with
refried beans, and minestrone made with sausage and beans is an
Italian tradition.  In the United States, beans and rice, baked beans
and brown bread, or beans and franks provide the right combination of
amino acids for growth and for building and repairing body tissues.
   For more information and suggestions about food, nutrition and
diets, call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Milk Myths. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2527
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2527,
"Milk Myths."
   Milk and milk products are an important part of everyone's diet.
Unfortunately, there are some common misconceptions about milk and
milk products that should be corrected.
   First, some people have the idea that only young children need
milk.  It's true that your need for milk begins when you are a baby
but that need continues the rest of your life.  What changes is the
amount of milk you need.  Three to four glasses of milk every day are
recommended for growing children...while only two glasses every day
are recommended for adults.
   Another myth suggests that milk causes heart disease.  Researchers
at the National Heart and Lung Institute conducted a ten-year
nutritional study of 912 Framington, New York, citizens and reported
that there is no discernible association between reported diet intake
and serum cholesterol level.
   The report also stated that there was no suggestion of any relation
between diet and the subsequent development of coronary heart disease
in the study group.
   One of the more amusing myths about milk is the one that suggests
that it's dangerous to serve milk and fish or milk and acid foods at
the same meals. Just keep in mind that any two foods which can be
eaten separately can be eaten together.  What would we do without
milk in oyster stew, creamed spinach, tomato soup, or sour cream on
cucumbers?
 
Some people believe that anyone on a weight-reduction diet should   ene         
not include milk in their meals.  However, milk has such excellent
nutrient value that a dieter would really do a disservice to himself or
herself by not drinking milk.  If you feel you need to reduce your
intake of calories and you're thinking of not drinking milk...try
drinking skim milk.  It has considerably fewer calories than whole
milk...but it still has all the nutrients.
   And finally, there are those people who believe that the calcium
you get in milk is not all that important...especially for adults...but it
is.  Calcium is needed for the good development of bones and teeth.
Adults need calcium to maintain their teeth and their bones in later
life and to prevent a condition called osteoporosis.  Osteoporosis
develops when bones lose calcium making the bones brittle and easily
broken.
   For more nutrition information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Milk in Family Meals," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Milk, Nutrition. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2528
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2528,
"Milk, Nutrition."
   Milk and milk products are a must in the diets of people because
they contain so many vital nutrients...such as protein, calcium,
phosphorous, riboflavin, vitamin A and vitamin D.
   The proteins in milk are high quality because they contain all of
the amino acids needed for normal growth and body maintenance.
These amino acids also form antibodies which fight infections.
   One pint of milk contains most of the calcium needed daily by an
average adult man.  Children need more than a pint because they're
still developing bones and teeth.
   Milk is important throughout life...especially in older people.  Older
people may lose teeth and suffer osteroperosis...which is thin, porous
bones...because they lose calcium through the bones.  So, it's a good
idea for older people to try to keep calcium in their diets and milk is
an excellent source of calcium.  Also, phosphorous...the other mineral
in milk...works with calcium in building strong bones and teeth.
   Whole milk supplies good amounts of vitamin A which helps keep
your skin healthy and helps toward normal vision.  Skim and low-fat
milk are fortified with vitamin A which is a fat-soluble vitamin.
   Riboflavin is a B vitamin found in milk and it is essential for a
youthful appearance because it keeps your skin smooth and healthy.
It also helps turn food into energy and keeps your nervous system
working as it should.
   Milk doesn't naturally contain vitamin D...but processors add
vitamin D to help you put to work the calcium and phosphorous you
get in milk.     For more information and suggestions about milk or
for a free pamphlet called "Milk in Family Meals," call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Vitamin Myths. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2529
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2529, "Vitamin Myths."
   Americans spend billions of dollars each year on vitamins.  As you
know, they're available in supermarkets, drug stores, health food
stores, by mail and from door-to-door salesmen.  Let's examine some
of the claims you hear:
   Claim #1 -- If you feel rundown, you need vitamins.  Fact: Some B
vitamins are needed for food to be changed into energy, but amounts
greater than the Recommended Daily Allowances won't provide any
benefits.  B vitamins are found in meats, milk, green leafy vegetables
and whole grain breads and cereals.
   Claim #2 -- Modern farming practices have depleted the soil of its
nutrients, so our food no longer contains enough vitamins.  Fact:
Modern crops are more nutritious than ever because of crop rotation,
soil tests and soil enrichment practices.  Most people can get the
recommended amounts of vitamins simply by eating a balanced diet
which includes the basic food groups.
   Claim #3 -- Vitamin E can enhance sexual potency.  Fact:  Large
doses of vitamin E used to treat human infertility or impotence have
not been successful.  It's almost impossible for a human to be
deficient in vitamin E because this vitamin is present to some extent
in most foods.  This myth was based on research which showed that
rats deprived of vitamin E became sterile.  It has no application for
humans. 
Claim #4 -- Vitamin C will prevent the common cold.  Fact:                      
Carefully controlled experiments show no real difference in colds
between those who take vitamin C supplements and those who don't,
but cold symptoms are less severe in those who take vitamin C.  High
levels of vitamin C may actually be dangerous for some people and
may cause nausea, vomiting and kidney stone formation in those who
are prone to them.
   Claim #5 -- B vitamins will cure nervous conditions.  Fact:  B
vitamins are necessary for a properly functioning nervous system, but
dosing yourself with B vitamins won't make you less nervous or help
you resist stress.
   Claim #6 -- Natural vitamins are better for you than synthetic
vitamins.  Fact:  Your body can't tell the difference between a vitamin
from a plant or animal and a vitamin made in the laboratory.  In fact,
some vitamin manufacturers put synthetic ingredients in their so-called
natural products.
   Claim #7 -- If a few vitamins are good for you, more vitamins are
that much better.  Fact:  Large amounts of some vitamins are
dangerous.  The fat soluble vitamins A and D are poisonous in large
amounts.  Very high levels of some water soluble vitamins, including
niacin and vitamin C, can have adverse affects, too.
   Myths about vitamins will probably always be with us.  To be sure
that you get vitamins in the right amounts, just choose foods from the
basic food groups daily.  These food groups include meat, poultry, fish
and beans, milk, breads and cereals, fruits and vegetables.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Nutrition Myths. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2531
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2531, "Nutrition Myths."
   Myths about nutrition are usually based on tradition and are often
handed down from generation to generation.  Here are a few of the
more common nutrition myths...
   Some "health foods" have special powers of protection and healing.
   Fact:  A particular food or food supplement will not prevent or
cure diseases such as arthritis, diabetes, cancer or heart disease.
"Health foods" do not offer any special power for prevention or
healing.  Recommended amounts and combinations of basic food groups
contribute to good health.

   Myth:  You should never drink milk while eating fish or lemons.
   Fact:  No experimental or clinical evidence has ever shown that
eating these foods together will make you sick.  If you can eat these
foods separately, then you can eat them together.  In fact, fish
chowder or oyster stew combines both fish and milk.

   Myth:  Some foods, such as boiled eggs and grapefruit, burn
calories.
   Fact:  There are no foods with the magic property of burning
calories.  The real secret to weight control is to reduce food intake
and increase exercise.

   Myth:  Beets are high in iron and should be eaten to prevent
anemia.
   Fact:  Actually, beets have very little iron.  The red color of foods
is not necessarily related to the iron content of the foods.  Beet
greens are a good source of iron, however.
 
Myth:  Foods grown with organic fertilizers are more nutritious    foods        
than foods grown with chemical fertilizers.
   Fact:  There is no difference in the nutritive quality of organically
fertilized crops and chemically fertilized crops.  All fertilizers are
changed to organic chemical compounds before the plant uses the
nutrients.  Most nutrients, except minerals, are synthesized by the
plant not obsorbed from the soil.

   Myth:  Fresh vegetables are more nutritious than frozen or canned
vegetables.
   Fact:  Many frozen and canned fruits and vegetables may actually
contain more nutrients than fresh products.  Produce is often frozen
or canned almost immediately after it is harvested which helps
preserve nutrients.  Fresh produce, on the other hand, may lose
nutrients when it is exposed to air and light during shipment and
storage.

   Myth:  Toasted bread has fewer calories than untoasted bread.
   Fact:  Because toasting bread only removes water from the bread,
the caloric value of toasted and untoasted bread is about the same.
However, a slice of toast or a slice of bread only contains about 70
calories.

   Myth:  Synthetic vitamins are not as effective as vitamins from
natural sources.
   Fact:  Your body cannot tell the difference between a vitamin from
natural sources and those made in a lab.  The vitamins made from
natural sources are usually much more expensive than synthesized
vitamins.  Also, many so-called natural vitamin pills often contain
chemical compounds.
 
If you want or need more information about food, nutrition, and   nomely        
diet, call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Nutrition Risks for the Elderly. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2532
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
2532,"Nutrition Risks for the Elderly."
   Changes in your activity, your body, your living arrangements and
your income may all work against your eating well and enjoying food
when you get past 65 years of age.
   One of the major changes in eating patterns in people past the age
of 65 is the need to reduce the number of calories eaten.  This is
reduced calorie need is due mainly to reduced physical activity and a
decrease in basal metabolic rate.
   Of course, too many calories can lead to obesity which has been
related to the development of age-related diseases.  And even though
the number of calories needs to be reduced...the nutrient intake needs
to remain the same.  So this means older people need to eat more
nutrient-dense foods.  These are foods that furnish a large amount of
nutrients in relation to the calories they furnish.
   The partial loss of taste and smell also affects appetites.  The
number of taste buds declines with age...those that detect sweet and
salt deteriorate first...leaving those that detect sour and bitter.
   After the age of 65...many people eliminate hard-to-chew foods
from their diet...making protein foods the first to go.  Yet, older
people need these protein-rich foods.
   Soft protein foods that can be added to the diet include cheeses,
dry beans and peas, eggs, fish, poultry and ground meat.
   Calcium-rich foods are also needed by older people...because as the
body ages, its ability to absorb calcium decreases.  Loss of calcium in
the bones can cause a condition called osteoporosis which makes bones
brittle and easily broken.
   Other problems encountered by older people include eating
alone...economic stress...or the feeling that nutritious foods cost too
much.
 
Here are some suggestions that may help you enjoy your mealtimes    tooy        
more as you grow older.  Eat three good meals a day--but eat less at
each meal than before.  If you can't eat very much at a regular meal,
try having part of your foods as snacks.  Choose nutrient-rich foods
and eliminate or cut down on "empty-calorie" foods.
   Include in your meals a variety of foods.  this will aid you in
getting all the nutrients you need.  Eat plenty of protein-rich foods
like meats, cheeses, eggs, and dry beans.
   To avoid constipation, drink enough water every day...about eight
glasses a day.  Eat raw fruits and vegetables and whole-grain breads
and cereals, including bran cereal.
   Make your meals enjoyable...listen to your kind of music, sit in a a
favorite spot, serve your meals attractively, take your time eating and
eat with other people as often as possible.
   For more nutriton information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Nutritious Snacks for Children. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2534
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2534,
"Nutritious Snacks for Children."
   It seems that meals-on-the-run have become a part of American
life...
it's just unfortunate that good nutrition is often sacrificed in this
hurried life style.
   Because snacks and small meals usually make up for lost main
meals, you should consider buying snack foods which are nutritious as
well as appealing to those who eat them.  Try to pass up those snacks
which contain so many empty calories...meaning foods with lots of
calories but relatively few nutrients.  Those empty-calorie foods
include candy, soft drinks and chips.
   Try to buy snack foods which are high in vitamin C.  Vitamin C
promotes healthy gums and teeth and helps fight infection.  Enough of
vitamin C will help a child resist the colds and viruses so common
among children.  Some foods which are high in vitamin C include
oranges, grapefruit and juices from these fruits.  Tomato juice is
another good source of vitamin C.
   Calcium is another of nutrients often missing in the diets of
children.  Snacks containing calcium include dairy drinks such as
whole milk, skim milk and buttermilk.  Even chocolate milk is a better
beverage than a soft drink containing a lot of sugar.
   Cottage cheese, hard cheeses and yogurt are also good sources of
calcium as well as protein.  Milkshakes made with milk and fruit are
excellent snacks for teenagers.
 
Snacks which provide vitamin A include fruits and vegetables with   erdy        
deep yellow or orange color.  Vitamin A contributes to healthy skin
and vision.  "Easy-to-Prepare" and "keep-on-hand vitamin A snacks
would include yellow-fleshed peaches...fresh, frozen, or canned and
dried fruits like apricots or peaches.  Carrots are an excellent source
of vitamin A.  Raw carrot and other vegetable sticks can be prepared
ahead and kept at a convenient spot in the refrigerator for snacking.
   Iron is a difficult-to-get nutrient but snacks can help provide it.
Dried fruits, peanut butter, hard-cooked eggs, and whole-grain or
enriched breads and cereals would be good choices for iron-rich
snacks.
   When you're shopping for nutritious snacks, beware of fruit-
flavored drinks...these often contain a lot of sugar and few nutrients.
Check the nutrition label and know what's in it before you buy it.
   For more nutrition information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "The Are of Snacking," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Organic Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2535
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2535, "Organic Foods."
   Organic foods are often promoted as having special health-giving
properties not found in other foods.
   But, by definition, all foods which come from living organisms are
"organic"...so, it's more accurate to speak of "organically-grown" food.
Organically-grown foods usually refer to foods which are produced
without the use of any agricultural chemicals and processed without
the use of food chemicals or additives.
   These foods usually cost about twice as much as conventionally
grown foods and since there is no government agency or law which
defines the term "organic," it's difficult to certify which foods meet
this definition.
   Quite a bit of research has been done on the nutritional value of
organically-grown foods as compared to chemically-grown foods.  The
results of this research indicates that there is no scientific basis to
the claim that orgnically-grown foods are superior to foods grown
using chemical fertilizers.
   Chemical fertilizers are broken down in the soil into the essential
elements for plant food.  Plants are unable to tell the difference
between elements produced from organic matter such as animal or
vegetable matter and elements produced from chemical fertilizers.
   The nutritional make-up of food depends on many things...the
nutrients available in the soil, the genetic characteristics of the plant,
the amount of rainfall, weather conditions and so forth.
 
So-called "organic" foods have been promoted as pesticide-free.   e plant,      
However, in scientific tests done in food labs, many "organic" foods
were found to contain pesticide residues.  A farmer who does his best
to follow organic farming practices may still find pesticides in his
crops.  Also, because foods grown in most areas require some form of
pesticide control, many foods labeled "organic" or "organically grown"
may have been treated with pesticides.
   Food can be produced organically on an individual or small scale
basis, but could never be used to produce the large supplies of food
required by the growing population of the United States and the
world.
   If you want or need more information about organically produced
foods, call the county agent or home economist in your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Potassium-rich Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2537
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2537, "Potassium-rich Foods."
   People who take diuretic medicines to control high blood pressure
and fluid retention must be especially careful to eat foods high in
potassium because, along with fluid loss, there is also a loss of
potassium.
   Potassium is linked to fluid balance and muscle activity.  Potassium
deficiency may produce symptoms of fatigue, weakness and mental
depression.  When potassium levels are very low, heart irregularities
and paralysis can occur.
   A diet high in foods which contain potassium usually will be
sufficient to prevent a deficiency in potassium resulting from diuretics.
Eating fruits and vegetables which are high in potassium can increase
potassium intake.
   Potassium-rich fruits include oranges, orange and grapefruit juice,
bananas, melons, nectarines, prunes, peaches, pears, nectarines and
avocados.  Vegetables high in potassium include collard greens,
cucumbers, potatoes, sweet potatoes, cabbage, beans, peas, winter
squash and tomatoes.
   Other good sources of potassium are milk products and meats,
including beef, lamb, pork, chicken and fish.  Many people who take
diuretics are also on low sodium diets.  They may need to limit milk
intake to two servings daily and limit meat to about 6 ounces daily.
   Salt substitutes are made of potassium chloride and provide large
amounts of potassium.  Potassium chloride isn't recommended for
people with some conditions, including kidney disease, so anyone who
takes a diuretic should check with a doctor before using salt
substitutes.
   You can get more information about food, nutrition and diets from
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Preparing Your Own Baby Food. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2538
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2538, "Preparing Your Own Baby Food."
   You can prepare baby food at home for less cost than you can buy
it.  Besides being easy to prepare, baby food made at home is
healthful and nutritious.  All you need is the food, a food mill,
blender, fork or strainer.  Wash your hands and all equipment with
hot, soapy water before you start to make baby food.
   Wash fruits and vegetables, peel them and remove any seeds.  You
can use some fresh fruits, like bananas or ripe pears, without cooking
them first.  Other fresh fruits and vegetables should be cooked in a
little water or steamed until they are tender.  Cook or steam them
without adding salt, sugar or seasonings.
   To fix meats for baby, boil or bake them until they are tender.
Don't add fat, salt or seasonings.  When the meat is well-done, remove
all bones, skin and fat.
   Use a food mill, blender or fork to make food smooth.  Add liquids
such as cooking water, juice, milk or formula to thin the food as
needed.  Store home-prepared baby foods in the refrigerator.  Keep
cooked fruits and vegetables no longer than three days, and keep raw
fruits and cooked meats only two days.  Be sure to cover the foods
tightly.
   If you want to freeze some of your homemade baby food, put it in
ice trays, cover and freeze it until it's solid.  Remove cubes, place
them in plastic bags, then label and date.  These frozen baby foods
can be kept for one month. 
When you get ready to serve food you've frozen, thaw it in the                  
refrigerator, then heat the food cube in a double boiler or in a heat-
proof dish in a small amount of water either in the oven or on top of
the range.  Heat until warm, but don't overcook.  Throw away any
food your baby doesn't eat.
   For more information about nutrition for children, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Restricting Sodium in Your Diet. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/26/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2539
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2539,
"Restricting Sodium in Your Diet."
   It's believed that too much sodium in the diet can contribute to
high blood pressure or hypertension in some people.  Restricting
sodium intake from foods, drinks, and drugs is one of the treatments
usually prescribed by physicians to control high blood pressure.
   If you need to restrict your sodium intake for medical reasons or if
you want to moderate your sodium intake for health reasons...here are
some suggestions which may help you.
   Reduce or eliminate the use of table salt.  Table salt is 40% sodium
and 60% chloride.  One teaspoon of salt has 2,000 milligrams of
sodium.  The amount of sodium required each day by most Americans
is only 1,100 to 3,300 milligrams.  Salt can be eliminated at the table
and in cooking.  Sodium-free herbs and spices can help season foods.
   Also, sodium is naturally present in most of the foods we eat.
Lower sodium foods are fresh fruits and vegetables.  High sodium
foods are poultry, meat, fish, dairy products, and eggs.  Reduce your
sodium intake by eating less of these high-sodium foods.
   Many processed foods contain added salt or sodium compounds and
their use should be moderated.  Snack foods such as potato chips,
pretzels, salted popcorn, salted nuts and crackers contain added salt.
Processed foods such as meats which are brined or cured are high in
sodium.  Canned vegetables may have some added salt.  Frozen
vegetables are usually salt-free...but some such as beans and peas do
contain added salt.  Canned and frozen fruits usually don't have added
salt, but tomatoes and apples may be treated with a sodium
compound.  Citrus fruit juices may also have a sodium compound
added.
 
The best rule is to read labels for added salt or sodium.  Check   dede         
the nutrition label for sodium listed in milligrams.  Also, check the
ingredient list for sodium or sodium compounds.
   Many other household compounds are high in sodium.  These
include baking powder and baking soda.  Condiments that are high in
sodium include bouillon cubes, worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, canned
soups, pickles, mustard, catsup, horseradish and any spices with the
word salt in it...such as garlic salt.  Use seasonings such as garlic
powder or onion powder rather than their salt.
   Sodium is also found in drinking water in varying amounts.  People
on very restricted diets may need to check with their doctor on this
source.
   Some over-the-counter and prescription drugs contain sodium in
significant amounts.  Read the labels or ask your physician.  Even
toothpaste and mouthwash contain extra sodium.
   Remember if you must restrict sodium intake...
   Read labels to look for products with lower sodium content.
   Remove the salt shaker from the table and eliminate salt in cooking
as much as possible.  Season foods with herbs, lemon and salt-free
spices.
   Use more "plain" varieties of foods, and start to do more cooking
from scratch.  You can control the sodium content this way.
   Eat more fresh or plain frozen vegetables or vegetables canned
without salt.
   Check with your doctor before using a salt substitute, like
potassium chloride.  It may cause further medical complications.
   For more information or ideas about restricting the sodium in your
diet or for a free pamphlet called "The Sodium Content of Your Food,"
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Risks in Feeding Infants Whole or Skim Milk. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2540
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2540, "Risks in Feeding Infants Whole or Skim Milk."
   Until just a few years ago, human milk was the mainstay of most
infants's diets.  Recently, many formulas which closely resemble human
milk have been developed.  Most physicians now recommend breast-
feeding for most infants with formulas the next best choice.
   Some mothers wonder about feeding whole cow's milk to their
infants and how it compares to human milk.  Well, cow's milk contains
more protein than human milk, so it must be diluted before it's fed to
babies.  The pattern of amino acids in human milk is more appropriate
for infants than that found in cow's milk.  Also, the fat in human
milk is better absorbed than the fat in cow's milk.
   Human milk contains higher levels of vitamins A, C and E than
does cow's milk.  The iron in human milk is more efficiently absorbed
by babies than the iron in cow's milk and because of this, anemia is
less likely to be a problem among nursing infants.  And, as for
calcium, human milk contains less calcium but it is more easily
absorbed than the calcium in cow's milk.
   In addition to the nutritional benefits, human milk provides some
protection for infants against various intestinal and respiratory
illnesses.  Also, babies who are fed human milk are less likely to
develop allergies than those babies on cow's milk.
   Many nutrition experts recommend that skim milk not be given to
children until they're at least two years old...even if they're
overweight.  Using skim milk can be dangerous for infants...especially
if they're younger than one year old.
 
Because skim milk doesn't satisfy an infant's appetite, he or she   lye         
may drink large amounts of it which can result in a diet that's high
in protein and high in electrolytes which may lead to diarrhea and
brain damage.
   For more information and suggestions about the proper nutrition
for your infant, call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Saturated and Unsaturated Fats. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2541
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2541, "Saturated and Unsaturated Fats."
   You've probably heard or read about saturated and unsaturated fats.
They are discussed in advertisements for margarines, oils and
shortenings.  These ads can be confusing until you understand the
terms saturated and unsaturated.
   Fats are complex structures with many different parts of elements
linked together.  These links are really chemical bonds.  In saturated
fats, all of the links are filled.  Saturated fats are usually solid or
hard at room temperature and are found mostly in animal fats and a
few plants.  Saturated fats include the fats in lard, beef, pork, lamb,
butter fat, egg yolks and poultry skin.  Olive, palm and coconut are
also highly saturated, even though they come from plants.  Coconut oil
is more saturated than butter fat.  It is used in many so-called non-
dairy products such as creamers, dessert fillings and toppings.
   Chocolate also contains saturated fat.  Cocoa beans, from which
chocolate is made, have a fat known as cocoa butter.  Cocoa butter is
highly saturated, so eating sweets such as chocolate candy, baking
chocolate and chocolate chips increases the saturated fat level in your
diet.
   Polyunsaturated fats are those in which the links are not all filled
or saturated.  Polyunsaturated fats are liquid at room temperature, and
they come from plant sources such as corn, safflower, soybeans,
sunflowers, cotton seeds and sesame seeds.  Peanut oil is more
saturated that these other fats from plants, but it's still classified as
a polyunsaturated fat. 
Hydrogenated fats are vegetable oils that undergo hydrogenation, a              
process in which hydrogen is added to vegetable shortenings and
margarines to fill some of the chemical links.  This hardening process
causes the oil to become more saturated, and it also increases the
storage life of the product.
   Fats are being studied closely these days because of the increased
interest in preventing heart disease.  Remember that certain amounts
of fat are necessary for good health, but if your doctor tells you to
cut down on fats, follow his advice.  Read food labels for information
on types of fats in foods you buy.
   You can get more information about foods, nutrition and diet from
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Should You Lose Weight? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2542
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2542, "Should You Lose Weight?"
   How can you tell if you're overweight?  Is there a difference
between being overweight and being obese?  These questions often
have conflicting answers, and even nutrition experts disagree on the
answers.
   For many years, doctors have used height and weight tables to
determine if their patients weigh the correct amount.  Insurance
companies developed these tables based on their records, and the
tables reflect the weight ranges at which people of various heights
and builds are statistically at less risk of premature death.  Recently
the weights have been revised upward about 5 to 7 percent, but
several health associations urge using the lower weights on the
earlier charts.
   Another method of determining your ideal weight is to use this rule
of thumb:  For women, start at 5 feet and 100 pounds, adding 5
pounds for each inch you are over 5 feet tall.  For men, start at 110
pounds and add 5 pounds for each inch over 5 feet.
   Because body weight by itself doesn't determine fatness or
leanness, the so-called "average" weight is meaningless.  Skeleton
weight can vary from 4 to 9 percent among different individuals.  This
means that a woman who weighs 125 pounds can have a skeleton that
weighs as little as 5 pounds or as much as 11 pounds.  Also, a
muscular person's weight may look high in proportion to his height,
but he may have very little fat tissue.
   Finding out how much body fat a person has is the best way to
define overweight.  One way to measure body fat is to weigh under
water.  Mathematical calculations are then made to define the amount
of body fat. 
A reliable way to determine body fatness -- and an easier one than              
weighing under water -- is to measure the skin fold thickness with
constant tension calipers. About half of the body's fat is directly
under the skin, so measuring this thickness of fat, which is called
subcutaneous fat, is a good index of total body fat.  The calipers are
used to measure several different body sites.  Body fat can then be
calculated.
   A test you can conduct yourself is the mirror test.  Study yourself
in a full length mirror without clothes, and you can decide whether or
not you are too fat.
   Have you gained several pounds over the years?  Are your clothes
tighter?  If the signs point to your having too much body fat, don't
wait!  Check with your doctor for a well-balanced, low calorie diet
and an exercise program that is right for you.
   You can get more information about nutrition and weight loss from
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Special Food Needs of Teenagers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2543
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2543, "Special Food Needs of Teenagers."
   Adolescensce...the teen years...is a time when your body grows quite
rapidly...in fact...the only times it grows faster are during the prenatal
and infancy stages.  So, during this time of rapid growth there are
tremendous needs for nutrition and calories.  In relation to body size,
these needs are greater for adolescents than for any other age group.
   The adolescent growth spurt generally takes place in boys between
the ages of 12 and 17.  In girls, rapid growth begins about two years
earlier than in boys and lasts for a shorter time.
   Besides being a time of rapid growth, the adolescent years are a
time of tremendous activity.  Often, the eating habits of teenagers are
poor because activities keep them away from home at mealtime.  And,
their eating habits are usually more influenced by their friends and
advertising than by parents.
   Many teenagers skip breakfast and eat snacks that are too high in
sugar and fat.  Teenage girls may eat too little because they dread
being fat...even if they're already underweight.
   An adolescent cannot afford to fill up on foods that contribute
only empty calories.  Meals and snacks must be chosen carefully
because of the greater need for all of the nutrients.
   It's important that teens eat wholesome, body-building foods which
also provide energy.  The basic food groups supply these nutrients and
include the following:
 
The milk and cheese group--you should eat four servings a day   ts andetal      
from this group to get protein, calcium, riboflavin and other vitamins
and minerals.
   The vegetables and fruit group--you should eat at least four
servings a day from this group and these four servings should include
one with vitamin C and one with vitamin A.  You get vitamin C from
citrus fruit or tomatoes and you get vitamin A from carrots, greens,
or cantaloupe.
   The meat, poultry, fish and beans group--you should eat at least
two servings a day from this group to get protein, iron, vitamin B6,
zinc and other nutrients.
   The breads and cereals group--you should eat at least four servings
a day from this group, preferably whole-grain or enriched products, to
get the B vitamins, iron, some protein and other nutrients.
   And finally, the fats and sweets group--you should eat foods from
this group in moderation because they provide a lot of calories and
few nutrients.
   If you would like more information and suggestions about nutrition
and diet, or if you would like to receive a free copy of the pamphlet
"Hassle-Free Food Guide," call the home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Storing Baby Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2544
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2544, "Storing Baby Foods."
   Storing baby foods properly helps to insure the good health of your
baby.  You can store unopened commercial baby foods on the pantry
shelf at room temperature.   Opened jars of baby foods should be
closed tightly and stored in the refrigerator.  They may be kept only
three days.
   Don't feed your baby directly from the jar because the spoon with
which you feed the baby will have saliva and germs on it.  This can
make the food spoil more quickly.  Transfer the amount you think
your baby will eat into a small bowl, and feed the baby from this
bowl.
   You can keep home prepared, cooked baby fruits and vegetables for
three days in the refrigerator, but don't keep raw fruits and cooked
meats longer than two days.  Put this food in glass or plastic jars and
cover them tightly.
   You can also freeze home prepared baby foods.  Fill an ice tray
with food, cover it with waxed paper, and freeze it until food becomes
solid.  You can then remove the cubes of food and freeze them in a
plastic bag.  Label and date the bag.  You can keep the frozen food
cubes for one month.
   To serve the frozen baby food, thaw the food in the refrigerator,
then heat the cubes in a double boiler or in a dish surrounded by hot
water on top of the stove or in the oven.  Heat just until it's warm;
don't overcook.  Throw away any food your baby doesn't eat.  Don't
refreeze it or save it for another meal.
   You can get more information about the preparation and storage of
baby foods from the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Storing Cheese. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2545
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2545,
"Storing Cheese."
   Cheese keeps best in the refrigerator.  The length of time you can
keep cheese depends on what kind it is and how it is wrapped.
   Soft cheeses are highly perishable.  Soft cheeses include cottage,
cream and Neufchatel.  Hard cheese...such as swiss and cheddar keep
much longer if you wrap them so that they don't dry out.
   Cheese should be stored in its original wrapper whenever possible.
You should cover the opened surface tightly with waxed paper, foil or
plastic wrap to protect it.  You can also store cheeses in tightly
covered containers.  Cheeses with strong odors...such as
Limburger...should always be stored in a tightly covered container.  If
you're going to store a piece of cheese for a long time you may want
to dip the cut surface in melted paraffin.
   Mold is an important part of some cheeses and may be eaten on
cheeses such as Blue and Roquefort.  Hard cheeses, such as swiss and
cheddar, are not ripened by mold so you when you find it on these
cheeses you should trim it off.  If the mold gets to the inside of the
cheese, probably you should throw it away.
   Generally, it's not recommended that you freeze cheese because it
becomes crumbly and mealy.  However, some varieties of cheese may
be frozen in small pieces of about a pound or less.  You can freeze
brick, cheddar, edam, Gouda, Muenster, Port du Salut, Swiss,
Provolone, Mozzarella and Camenbert.
   If you want a crumbly textured cheese to use in salads or salad
dressings, you should freeze a little Blue, Roquefort or Gorgonzola.
To freeze cheese, wrap it tightly and freeze it quickly at zero
degrees.  You shouldn't store it longer than six months. For more
nutrition information and suggestions or for a free pamphlet called
"What's New with Cheese" or another pamphlet called "Cheese in
Family Meals," call the home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Storing Dairy Products. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2546
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2546,
"Storing Dairy Products."
   Basically, milk and fluid milk products will keep for a week or
more in the refrigerator in your home.  Concentrated or manufactured
products such as butter, cheese, ice cream and yogurt should keep for
much longer periods.
   Milk and cream should be refrigerated immediately after you get
home.  It should be stored at about forty degrees Fahrenheit.  Milk
will absorb flavors of other foods in the refrigerator so it's a good
idea to reseal the carton you use each time you use it.
   Milk and cream should not be frozen...however, sweetened whipped
cream can be stored in the freezer in individual portions.  All you do
is put dollops of whipped cream on a cookie sheet and freeze them.
Then immediately put these frozen portions of whipped cream in
plastic bags and return them to your freezer until you're ready to use
them.
   Buttermilk, sour cream and yogurt should be stored the same as
milk and cream.  You need to either eat or drink these products
within three or four days to get the full benefit of their flavor.
   Creamed cottage cheese and cream cheese should be stored at forty
degrees Fahrenheit to protect their flavors and textures.  Keep them
tightly covered because they will absorb other flavors in the
refrigerator, too.
   Butter should be kept covered and in the refrigerator.  Long
exposure at room temperature or exposure to light causes butter to
lose it fine flavor.  Butter can be stored in the freezer for long
periods with no loss of quality.  However, when you freeze butter be
sure to put it in a moisture-vapor-proof container or wrap it in
moisture-vapor-proof material.
 
Cheese should be wrapped tightly while it is in the refrigerator so   ftal      
that it doesn't dry out.  If natural cheeses are wrapped poorly or
where there is quite a bit of moisture, mold spots may develop.
Generally, these molds are harmless and can be scraped off with no
harm to the rest of the cheese.  Ask for Tele-Tip number 2545 for
more detailed information about storing cheese.
   For more nutrition information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Milk in Family Meals," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Sugar and Dental Health. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2547
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2547, "Sugar and Dental Health."
   Cakes and sweets are usually the highlights of most social
occasions while sweetened cold drinks and other beverages often
make up the breaktime snack for many Americans.
   In our society, children are often rewarded with candy for being
good or they're given a sweet dessert for eating all of their
vegetables.
   These practices can be invitations to dental disease.  Poor food
selection and poor eating habits can contribute to tooth decay and
gum disease which may eventually lead to the loss of teeth.
   The decay process begins when bacteria on the teeth...called
plaque... break down the sugar in foods to form acid.  The acid may
destroy the tooth enamel if it's allowed to form regularly and this can
lead to tooth cavities.
   To prevent decay, plaque must be controlled with proper diet and
good oral hygiene.  Here are some of the steps which will help you
maintain good dental health...
   Brushing and flossing daily to keep plaque from building up.
   Limiting the sweets you eat.  How much sugar a certain food
contains, how often you eat sweets, the length of time the sugar stays
on your teeth, and the form of the food...that is, whether it's sticky
or not...all of these things have a direct effect on tooth decay.  The
more often you eat foods with sugar, the more often acid has a
chance to attack the teeth.
 
Another of the steps toward good dental health is eating a   aay.  Thental      
balanced diet from the basic food groups.  Plan meals and snacks to
include the following foods every day...two or more servings of milk
and cheese...four or more servings of vegetables and fruits...four
servings of breads and cereals...and two servings from the meat,
poultry, fish and beans group.
   Good dental health doesn't just happen.  Plan to take care of your
teeth by eating the right foods and practicing correct dental hygiene.
   For more information and suggestions about nutrition and diet, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Teenage Pregnancy Nutritional Risks. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2548
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2548, "Teenage Pregnancy Nutritional Risks."
   As a teenager who is pregnant you must be sure to eat well
because your body needs food for its own growth and development and
for the growth and development of the baby you're carrying.  How you
eat during pregnancy will affect your own health as well as your
baby's health.  If you eat right, you'll be less likely to have
complications.  You're also more likely to have a healthy baby and be
better prepared to breast-feed if that's what you want to do.
   Current research indicates that weight gain during pregnancy should
be about 24 to 28 pounds.  If you begin your pregnancy below your
desirable weight, then your doctor may suggest that you gain more
than this.  If you were overweight when you became pregnant, your
weight gain during pregnancy should still be about 24-28 pounds.
Pregnancy is not the time to diet.  The way you gain weight during
pregnancy is very important, too.  A weight gain of one pound per
month for the first three months and then three-fourths of a pound
each week for the remaining six months is the appropriate pattern.
   Pregnant teenagers should eat a simple, well balanced diet which
includes a variety of foods.  The daily diet should include the
following food groups:
   1)  MILK -- One quart of whole milk...or lowfat milk...or skimmed
milk to provide protein for body tissues and calcium for bones and
teeth.  Other milk products, including cheese, cottage cheese, yogurt
and ice cream, may be substituted for some of the milk.
   2)  MEAT, POULTRY, FISH AND BEANS -- Two or more servings
are needed daily to provide iron for red blood cells and additional
protein for body tissues.
 
3)  VEGETABLES AND FRUITS -- At least four servings are needed   alrtdntal      
each day to provide vitamins and minerals.  A good source of vitamin
C is important, and it can be citrus fruits, melons tomatoes or greens.
Dark green and yellow vegetables or fruits provide vitamin A, which is
also needed.  Foods that contain vitamin A are carrots, spinach,
squash or apricots.
   4). BREADS AND CEREALS -- You should eat five or six servings
of whole grain or enriched breads and cereals each day so you'll have
the energy, B vitamins and minerals you need. Whole grain products
also provide fiber, which helps to prevent constipation.
   A fifth group of foods is labeled FATS, SWEETS AND ALCOHOL.
Alcohol should be avoided during pregnancy.  Candy, soft drinks and
other sweets may be eaten once in awhile.  If you need extra calories,
you should use margarine, butter oils or salad dressing to complete
your meals.
   By eating well and taking care of yourself, you can help yourself
have a safe pregnancy and a happy, healthy baby.  Your nutritional
needs reflect both your own requirements and those of your developing
baby.
   For more information about nutrition, call the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Using Low-Calorie Sweeteners. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


           Teletip 2550
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2550, "Using Low-Calorie Sweeteners."
   People who want to cut calories often ask about preparing foods
with low-calorie sweeteners.  Because low-calorie sweeteners don't
provide the same
bulk as sugar, and because they don't have its stabilizing or
preservative quality, sometimes you need to use special recipes.
   Low-calorie sweeteners may often be substituted for sugar in such
recipes as puddings, custards, gelatins, salad dressings, fruit fillings
and sauces just by using the substitution tables that come with the
substitute sweeteners.  These equivalents will vary from product to
product, so be sure you use the amount stated on the individual
product.
   Foods like frozen desserts, jellies, jam, candies and baked goods
usually require specially developed recipes.  Simple substitution of low-
calorie sweeteners in these foods usually doesn't produce an acceptable
product.
   Because the low-calorie sweeteners don't have the preservative
quality of sugar, jams and jellies made with low-calorie sweeteners
must be refrigerated after opening.  Baked products may mold within a
short time.
   Two of the low-calorie sweeteners on the market today are
aspartame and saccharin.  Aspartame cannot be used in cooking or
baking, but it can be used to sweeten products which don't require
heating.  Saccharin is stable under heat, so it can be used in baking
and cooking.
   Manufacturers of low-calorie sweeteners provide recipes for using
their products in many food items.  You may also request them from
the companies.
   You can get more information about food and nutrition from the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Using Egg Substitutes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2551
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2551, "Using Egg Substitutes."
   People who are on diets designed to lower their blood cholesterol
levels usually may eat no more than 3 egg yolks a week.  Egg yolks
are very rich sources of cholesterol, but egg whites have no
cholesterol.
   Because so many cooked and baked foods contain egg yolks,
restricting egg yolks to only 3 a week may be difficult.  By preparing
foods at home, you may be able to solve this problem.  In some
recipes, you may be able to omit the egg yolks.  In others, you may
need to use an egg substitute.
   Commercial egg substitutes are made of egg whites, vegetable oil
and a few other ingredients to provide a product which is similar to
eggs in appearance and nutrient content (except for the cholesterol).
The usual substitution is one-fourth cup of the egg substitute for one
large egg.  You can get recipes using egg substitutes by writing the
companies who make them.
   You can make egg substitutes at home, too.  Homemade egg
substitutes are less expensive and just as satisfactory.  They also have
few calories.  Here's a low cholesterol egg substitute recipe:
   1 tablespoon of nonfat dry milk powder
   2 egg whites from large eggs
   4 drops of yellow food color

   Sprinkle powdered milk over egg whites, then beat them with fork
until smooth.  Add food color, and beat until blended.  This makes
one-fourth cup, which is equal to 1 large egg.  If you use this
homemade substitute for scrambled eggs, cook it in vegetable oil or
margarine so the eggs won't be too dry.          You can get more
information about food, nutrition and diets from the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Vegetables in the Diet. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2552
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2552, "Vegetables in the Diet."
   Vegetables are a valuable part of your diet.  Along with the variety
they add to meals with their colors and textures, vegetables provide
many necessary vitamins and minerals.  Without these vitamins and
minerals, the other essential nutrients...including protein, carbohydrates
and fats, cannot be used properly by your body.
   Vitamin A is necessary for growth, healthy skin and good vision.
You get vitamin A from dark-green and deep-yellow vegetables such as
greens, spinach, broccoli, carrots and sweet potatoes.
   Vitamin C helps your body resist infection and it helps wounds to
heal.  You may think that you get vitamin C only from citrus
fruits...but, many vegetables...such as greens, broccoli, green pepper,
Brussels sprouts and tomatoes are good sources of vitamin C.
   Also, in addition to being good sources of vitamins A and C, dark-
green vegetables are valued for the riboflavin, folacin, iron and
magnesium they contain.  These vitamins and minerals are needed to
form enzymes which change food into energy and help to maintain
body functions.
   Certain greens...including collards, kale, mustard, turnips and
dandelion, provide calcium.  Calcium is a mineral and it is needed for
strong bones and teeth, proper nerve and muscle activity, wound
healing and blood clotting.
 
So, as you can see, vegetables provide a lot of the essential   ed for,tes      
vitamins and minerals your body needs.  But, vegetables do even
more...they add to the fiber in your diet which helps keep your
digestive system healthy and prevents constipation.
   Vegetables may lose some of their nutritional value when they're
exposed to heat, air or water...so, the way you cook vegetables is very
important.  Here are some general suggestions for cooking vegetables
which should help preserve, as much as possible, the flavor, texture,
color, and nutritional value.
   Whenever it's feasible, eat your vegetables unpeeled.  However, if
you must peel them, store them in airtight containers in the
refrigerator.
   Steam or boil vegetables in as little water as possible to preserve
those vitamins which dissolve in water.  Also, bring the water to a
boil before you put in the vegetables.
   Use cooking charts or package directions for appropriate cooking
times.  Vegetables should be slightly crisp when done.  Undercook
vegetables slightly if they're to be recooked in a sauce.
   To preserve the color of green vegetables, cook them uncovered for
several minutes at the beginning of the cooking time.
   Finally, baking soda destroys vitamin activity and should not be
added to vegetables when you're cooking them.
   If you want more information and suggestions about diet and
nutrition, or if you would like to receive the free pamphlets
"Nutrition--Food at Work for You," or "Hassle-Free Food Guide," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
What is a Balanced Diet? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2553
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2553, "What is a Balanced Diet?"
   Should you take vitamins or can your body get the nutrients it
needs from the foods you eat?  If you include foods from the basic
food groups in your diet, you can get the nutrients you need, and
your body will have the fuel and materials it needs.  Eating properly
can make a big difference in the way you look and feel.
   Eating properly involves three main steps:  1) learning about the
nutrients you need and which foods contain them, 2) using your
knowledge to plan meals and snacks wisely, and 3) actually eating the
foods you plan to eat.
   The groups of foods which make up a well-balanced diet fall into
four main groups:  the vegetable and fruit group, the bread and cereal
group, the milk and cheese group, and the meat, poultry, fish and
bean group.  Let's look at each group.
   The vegetable and fruit group:  Vegetables and fruits are high in
vitamins and minerals, usually low in fats and contain no cholesterol.
Eat at least four servings from the vegetable and fruit group each
day.  A serving would be an orange, half of a cantaloupe, a small
salad or a medium-sized potato.
   Citrus fruits, melons, berries, raw cabbage and tomatoes offer
vitamin C.  Vitamin C is needed every day to manufacture the material
which holds body cells together.  Eat a serving of dark green or
yellow vegetables every day, too, because they contain vitamin A,
which is needed for healthy skin and night vision. 
The bread and cereal group:  Whole-grain and enriched breads and                
cereals have B vitamins, which you need for digestion and general
body functions.  Whole-grain and enriched breads and cereals also
contain iron for building red bloods cells, and they are good sources
of trace minerals and fiber.  Eat four servings of breads and cereals
daily.  A serving is one slice of bread, one-half to three-fourths cup
of cooked cereal or pasta or one ounce of ready-to-eat cereal.
   The milk and cheese group:  The milk and cheese group includes
whole milk, lowfat milk, skim milk and nonfat dry milk, cheese,
cottage cheese, ice cream and yogurt.  These foods provide protein for
building and repairing body tissues and calcium for forming bones and
teeth.  Adults need to eat two servings from this group each day.
Children need three servings and teens, pregnant women and nursing
mothers need four servings.  A serving is one cup of milk or plain
yogurt, one and one-third ounces of cheddar or Swiss cheese, one and
one-half cups of ice cream or two cups of cottage cheese.
   The meat, poultry, fish and bean group:  The meat, poultry, fish
and bean group contains protein for building and repairing as well as
other valuable vitamins and minerals.  Red meats and dry beans
provide iron, which is important for building red blood cells.  Fish and
poultry usually have less fat than red meats.
   Eat two servings from the meat group each day.  One serving is
two to three ounces of lean, boneless cooked meat, poultry or fish;
two eggs; one and one-half cups of cooked dry peas, beans or lentils;
and four tablespoons of peanut butter.  
There is a fifth group of foods called the fats, sweets and alcohol             
group.  This group includes butter and margarine, which supply some
vitamin A, and vegetable oils which provide vitamin E and essential
fatty acids.  Other items in this group are mayonnaise, salad dressings,
sugar, honey, jelly, candy, sweetened beverages and alcoholic
beverages.  Slow down on this group.  These foods provide calories
but few vitamins, minerals and protein.
   Eat right and you can get the nutrients you need from the foods
you eat.
   If you would like more information about proper nutrition or if you
would like to have a free pamphlet called "The Hassle-Free Daily Food
Guide," call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Seafood Nutrition. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2554
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2554, "Seafood Nutrition."
   Not only is seafood delicious, but it's nutritious as well. It's a
delightful addition to any meal and is an excellent, low-calorie source
of many essential nutrients.
   Seafood contains about twenty percent of the high quality proteins
as red meat and poultry.  It is also low in fat -- and most of the fat
it has is poly-unsaturated.
   Because many diets now specify  poly-unsaturated fat, rather than
saturated fat, fish and shellfish make excellent main dishes.  Some fish
are relatively high in fat such as salmon, mackerel and catfish.
However, the fat is primarily unsaturated.
   The cholesterol content of most fish is similar to red meat and
poultry--
 about twenty milligrams per ounce.  Some shellfish contain more
cholesterol than red meat.  However, because the fat is mainly poly-
unsaturated, shellfish may be allowed for some fat and cholesterol-
restricted diets.
   Fish is also a good source of "B" Vitamins -- "B-6", "B-12", biotin
and niacin.  Vitamin "A" is found mainly in fish liver oils, but some
high fat fish are good sources of Vitamin "A".
   Fish is a good source of several minerals -- especially iron,
phosphorus, potassium and zinc.  Canned fish with edible bones, such
as salmon or sardines, are also good sources of calcium.
   Oysters are a good source of iron and copper, which are both
needed for the formation of red blood cells.
   Salt water fish and shellfish are also excellent sources of idoine --
 the mineral needed to prevent goiter.
        Because the sodium content of most fresh fish is low, it can
be included in low-sodium diets.  Shellfish contains larger amounts of
sodium, however, and is usually restricted on low-sodium diets.
   For more on seafood nutrition, contact the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Buying and Thawing a Turkey. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/27/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 2602
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 2602,
"Buying and Thawing a Turkey."
   One of the first things that should be said about buying a turkey
is...buy it well in advance of when you plan to cook it because the
turkey you buy will probably be frozen and it takes takes a long time
to correctly thaw a frozen turkey.  I'll have details on how to thaw a
frozen turkey in a few minutes.
   The turkey you buy in the grocery store today is the result of
improved production methods and the tenderness of the bird depends
primarily on its age and how it's handled before it's cooked.  Often
you may see tom turkeys priced differently than hen turkeys...but,
there is no real difference in the tenderness of the two.
   Whether you're buying a tom or a hen, look for the word "young"
on the label.  These young turkeys are best for roasting.  The
tenderness of your turkey can be influenced by the way you cook
it...how dry it is and to some extent, the amount of natural fat in the
turkey.
   Knowing what size turkey to buy may be a problem for you if you
don't buy one very often.  In most cases, large turkeys are more
economical and provide left-overs for future meals.
   Large, whole turkeys or half turkeys are usually better buys than
small ones for two reasons.  First, you pay less per pound for large
turkeys than for small turkeys.  Second, large turkeys have a higher
proportion of meat to bone than do small turkeys.
 
For example, a fifteen-pound turkey will provide twice as many   herthe-        
servings as a ten-pound bird because of the larger proportion of meat
to bone.  When you buy a turkey that weighs twelve pounds or less
you should figure about three-quarters of a pound for each serving.
When you buy a turkey that weighs more than twelve pounds you
should figure about one-half to three-quarters of a pound per serving.
The serving size in these calculations is three-ounces of edible meat.
   All turkeys shipped across state lines must be federally inspected
for wholesomeness and labeled with the government stamp.  While the
grading as A, B, and C, is not mandatory, it is a good guide.  Many
brands carry the grade shield.  Most turkeys in retail stores are Grade
A.
   When you're shopping for a turkey, make sure the store's freezer
case is at zero degres or below.  Don't buy frozen turkeys stacked
above the load line in the freezer or those packed in ice in the aisle
displays.
   Look for undamaged wrappings because exposure to air dehydrates
the meat and impairs the quality.  Select the size turkey you need for
the occasion or plan left-overs for the freezer.  You can save money
by basting your own turkey.  Those advertised as "self-basting" cost
more than those which are unbasted.
    As I mentioned earlier, you should buy your turkey well in
advance of when you plan to cook it because it takes a long time to
thaw one the way it should be thawed...in fact, it may take from one-
to-three days.
   Thaw the bird in its original wrapper on a tray in the
refrigerator... never thaw a turkey at room temperature.  It's
important that you keep the frozen turkey's outer surface cool during
thawing to prevent bacterial growth on the outside while the inside is
still cold.
 
If you have only hours instead of days to thaw your turkey, you   e ise-        
can get two large brown paper bags...the kind grocery stores use.  Put
the turkey in one of the grocery bags...then, put that bag inside the
empty one...open end first.  This keeps the cold air inside the bag and
keeps the surface of the turkey cool while the inside of the bird
thaws.  Thawing time for a turkey that weighs eight-to-twelve pound
turkey should be only ten-to-twelve hours.
   Another quick and safe method for thawing a turkey is to use cold
tap water.  Put the turkey in the sink or in a pan and cover it with
cold tap water.
Change the water often.  This way the turkey will thaw in six to eight hours.
Keep the bird in the original wrapper and as soon as the bird is pliable, remove
the package of giblets and the neck which are wrapped and stored inside the
body cavity.  Refrigerate or freeze the giblets immediately if you're not going to
use them right away.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Buying and Storing Cottage Cheese. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/20/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                             Tele-Tip
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2603,
"Buying and Storing Cottage Cheese."
   Fresh, wholesome cottage cheese is the easiest, low-cost way to
add to your meals the protein of milk with relatively few calories.
This simplest form of cheese is digested easily, too.  Another plus...it's
ready to eat as it comes from the container.
   Cottage cheese is made from high quality pasteurized skim milk or
from reconstituted skim milk made from nonfat dry milk.  This low-
calorie favorite is rich in important nutrients.  One-half cup of
cottage cheese has almost twice as much protein as a cup of milk and
about three-fourths as much riboflavin.  An average serving of one-
half cup has only 120 calories and about as much protein as three
eggs, a serving of lean meat or three slices of cheddar cheese.
   There's a variety of cottage cheeses available...creamed cottage
cheese, low-fat cottage cheese, or uncreamed or dry cottage cheese.
You can buy it as large or small curd and either salted or unsalted.
Read the label on the cottage cheese package when you're trying to
decide which type to buy.
   I mentioned small curd and large curd cottage cheese...here's what
that means.  The small curd cottage cheese...sometimes called "country
style"...has a curd which has been heated long enough to be quite
firm.  It holds its shape and is particularly good for salad making.  A
scoop of this small curd cottage cheese in the center of a fruit
plate...or mounded in a peach, or or tomato makes an attractive and
tasty dish.
 
Now, the large curd cottage cheese is made the same was as the   nd.  At'sgoing 
small curd type...except that it's heated for a shorter time and is cut
with larger cutters.  So, the result is large, soft curds that mix easily
with other foods.  Large curd cottage cheese is best for dip since a
softer curd beats up quickly and makes a smooth dish.
   Creamed cottage cheese, which was also mentioned earlier has a
creaming mixture added to it...and this mixture has a minimum of 4%
milkfat.
   Lowfat cottage cheese has a creaming mixture of not less than .5%
and not more than 2% milkfat.
   And Uncreamed or dry cottage cheese has less than .5% milkfat.
   Cottage cheese cartons are marked with a "pull date," the last date
it should be sold as a fresh, high-quality product.  The pull date is
planned to allow for several days of storage in a home refrigerator.
Cottage cheese is at its peak flavor when used soon after purchase.
Store it only a short time, and make sure the container is covered
tightly.
   You can use cottage cheese in many refreshing ways...with spices
and seasonings...with any fresh, dried, canned or frozen fruit...with
crisp, tangy vegetables...with meat, fish, eggs or other dairy products.
   Cottage cheese-filled pancakes are a delicious breakfast dish, a
good luncheon dish and a tasty dessert.  You can also use cottage
cheese on sandwiches in place of mayonnaise.  You might want to
make up your own recipes using cottage cheese.  It's versatile and
nutritious.
   For more information and suggestions about food buying, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Defrosting Your Freezer. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2903
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2903, "Defrosting Your Freezer."
   A thick layer of frost makes your freezer work less efficiently.
High temperatures and humidity will make the problem worse.  If frost
builds to more than one-quarter of an inch on freezer walls, it's time
to defrost the freezer.
   For routine defrosting, you don't need to turn off the electricity.
Transfer frozen items to the refrigerator or wrap them together in
several layers or newspaper and put them in an insulated picnic cooler.
Or, move them to one side of the freezer while you scrape off and
scoop out excess frost with a plastic scraper or wooden paddle.  Never
use an ice pick or electric defroster which might damage the inside of
the unit.
   Every once in a while, you need to defrost the unit completely and
clean it.  Choose a time when the freezer is nearly empty, if possible.
To defrost the freezer completely, unplug the freezer.  Remove frozen
foods and wrap them in several layers of newspapers.  Cover packages
with a blanket or put them in a picnic cooler.  Food will stay frozen
for several hours if temperatures aren't too high.  If temperatures are
extremely high, add dry ice.
   Remove storage baskets and food dividers, wash in warm, sudsy
water, rinse and dry.  If freezer has a defrost water drain, connect
the hose adaptor to the drain.  Place a flat pan under the drain or
direct the water hose to a convenient drain.
   You can speed the defrosting by placing pans of warm water inside
the freezer or by directing air from an electric fan or vacuum cleaner
exhaust into the freezer. Scrape off the rest of the frost with a
plastic or wooden scraper.  Never use a sharp object or an electrical
defroster.
 
After all the frost melts, wash the box with a solution of warm   calre.ysgoing 
water and baking soda, using one tablespoon of soda in a quart of
water.  Rinse with clear water and wipe dry with soft cloths or paper
towels.  Turn the current on, and let the freezer cool for 30 minutes
or more before replacing frozen food.
   Freezers differ in their construction and their procedures for
defrosting.  If you have a question and you no longer have the manual
to consult, send the model number of your freezer to the manufacturer
and ask for the proper booklet.  The model number is stamped on your
freezer.
   You can get more information on the proper care and use of the
appliances in your home from the home economist in your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                -30
-End-
-Title-
Buying and Using Dry Beans and Peas. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2604
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2604,
"Buying and Using Dry Beans and Peas."
   Dry beans and peas have been and still are good food bargains.
For only eight cents per serving, they provide a good source of
protein, versatility to menus and good nutrition.
   There are several kinds of dry beans and peas.  For instance, there
are red kidney beans which are popular because they can be used in
soups, stews, casseroles, and salads.
   Black-eye peas are a Southern favorite and are especially good
when you serve them with ham or chicken...and, of course, they're a
favorite "good luck" food on New Year's Day.
   The term "navy bean" refers to several varieties of white beans.
These beans are used in soups, and casseroles such as baked beans.
   There are large and baby lima beans.  The large limas have a
buttery flavor and are often referred to as "butter beans."  Large
limas keep their shape well during cooking.  They're also excellent in
casseroles and soups, and served with smoked meats and cheese.
   The pinto bean is popular...especially for Mexican dishes.
   The black bean is popular for South American and Cuban dishes
and makes delicious black bean soup.
   You can use most of these beans for many kinds of dishes or you
can serve them alone.  Most recipes calling for beans are
adaptable...so, even though a recipe may call for a certain bean, you
may be able to easily substitute another kind.
 
Even though beans are vegetables, their high protein content   n, youne.ysgoing 
requires that they be classified with meat, poultry and fish.
Everybody needs two servings per day from the meat, poultry, fish and
bean group. With the rising costs of almost everything, including food,
you may be able to save some money and still serve protein-rich foods
by substituting dried beans and peas for some meats.
   A cup of cooked beans will provide you with about one-fourth of
the day's requirement for protein.  You can increase the value of this
protein by combining beans with small amounts of meat, eggs, or by
serving it with a grain like corn, rice, or wheat.  So, you have
combinations such as red beans and rice, chili with beans, tortillas
with beans, or cornbread and black-eye peas.
   Dry beans are also important sources of B vitamins, iron, and
calcium.  Another good thing about dry beans is that they are low in
fat and cholesterol.  And, you've probably heard a lot lately about the
importance of dietary fiber in your diet.  Beans are an important
source of fiber...which helps you maintain a healthy digestive tract.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying and Using Produce. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/25/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2605
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2605,
"Buying and Using Produce."
   Whether you buy fruits and vegetables in peak season or in the
off-season, there are a few things you should keep in mind to get the
most for your money.
   First, buy only the amount you need because fresh fruits and
vegetables are perishable.
   Select fruits and vegetables that are mature, ripe, well-colored, and
free of bruises, punctures and decay.  At the produce counter, you are
your own best judge of quality.  It's there that you can smell  and
hold the product before you make your choice.
   You should shop for fruits and vegetables carefully.  Don't buy
damaged fruits and vegetables even if the price is low.  Handle
produce carefully because someone must pay for produce the grocer
loses.  In the long run, it may be you.
   Try to make the most of the produce you buy.  Important nutrients
can literally evaporate if you keep fruits and vegetables too long.
This is why it's so important for you to store your produce as soon as
possible.
   Your vegetables can lose a lot of vitamins and minerals if they're
cooked for too long in too much water.  Remember, cook your
vegetables for as short a time as possible in as little water as
possible.  Vitamin C is especially water soluble and more likely to be
lost if you're not careful.  Try to save the water that you cook the
vegetables in and use it in gravies, sauces and soups.
 
Whenever you can, cook vegetables such as potatoes in their skins   bendysgoing 
and serve cucumbers with the peeling.  Nutrients in vegetables and
fruits are stored close to the skin or peel.  If you absolutely must
peel your produce, make the peeling as thin as possible.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying and Storing Apples. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2606
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2606,
"Buying and Storing Apples."
   Fresh apples, rich in food value and low in calories, are available
all year.
   Here are some tips to help you choose and store apples:
   --Select apples according to the way you will use them.  Favorites
for eating raw are:  Delicious, Jonathon, McIntosh and Winesap.
Varieties with a tart or slightly acid taste--such as Jonathon--are fine
for making pies or applesauce.
   --Use firm-fleshed varieties for baking.  These include Rome Beauty
or Winesap.
   --For the best prices, buy apples when they're plentiful.  But buy
only enough to use or store without waste.  Well-shaped apples with
few blemishes or soft spots are good buys.
   --To keep apples crisp and tasty, store them in a cool, moist place.
If the storage area is too warm, apples will become soft and mealy.
Keep small quantities in the refrigerator.  Don't store them near foods
with strong flavors.  Also, keep apples away from dairy products,
potatoes and onions because these foods may absorb flavor from the
fruit.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Canned Convenience Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2607
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2607,
"Buying Canned Convenience Foods."
   A well-stocked food pantry can help a homemaker serve tasty,
nutritious meals and yet have time for leisure activities.
   Convenient canned foods offer variety and ease of preparation.
   When you're buying canned foods, follow these pointers:
   --Check store ads and take advantage of sales on canned foods you
serve often.
   --Select the size which suits your needs.  Large sizes, which
usually cost less, aren't a bargain if some of the food spoils before
you use it.
   --Choose the quality you need.  Top quality foods are fine when
appearance is important.  In a casserole or cobbler, lower priced foods
are just as nutritious and tasty.
   --Read labels and compare prices.  Unit pricing will help you do
this.  Labels also show the ingredients of combination foods in order
of predominance.
   --Store your canned goods in an orderly way in a place that is
warm, but not hot, and where they can't freeze.  Canned goods have a
long shelf life, but move older cans to the front so you can use them
first.
   --Never use bloated or leaking cans.  If you brought home a
suspicious-looking can, return it to the store and it will be replaced.
   These simple rules can help you stretch your food dollar.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Make Your Food Dollars Go Further," call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Buying Carcass Beef. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2608
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2608,
"Buying Carcass Beef."
   Buying extra meat to freeze when prices are attractive can be
convenient and economical.  But buying meat wholesale in quantity to
last three to six months isn't always wise.
   Here are some reasons to be careful when buying meat in quantity:
   --Advertised prices for wholesale meat usually refer to total weight
before cutting into edible portions.  Butchers usually count on losing
about 1/3 of a carcass in boning, trimming, shrinking and other
cutting losses.  More careful studies estimate the cutting loss to be
between 25 and 30 percent.  A 300-pound side of beef will yield about
225 pounds of usable meat.
   --The division of the 300-pound carcass can affect the buyer's
satisfaction, too.  An average side of beef yields about one-fourth
steaks of all kinds, one-fourth roasts, one-fourth ground beef and
stew meat, and one-fourth waste.
   --Always ask if cutting, wrapping and freezing costs are included
in the advertised price or if there is an extra charge.  Meat must be
frozen quickly.  It's best to have the freezing done by a commercial
facility than to rely on a home freezer.
   --Consider the safe period of storage.  Beef wrapped securely in
moisture- and vapor-proof freezer paper will remain in good condition
for nine months to a year at zero degrees Fahrenheit.  Not all meat
will keep this long.  Use ground beef and stew meat within four
months and pork, within six months.  Smoked meats will lose quality
after six to eight weeks.
   --Always figure cash and credit costs when buying wholesale.
Buying on credit can cancel any savings in price. --Be sure you have
enough freezer room to store the added quantity.
   --Consider family likes and dislikes when buying meat wholesale.
If your family doesn't eat all of the various cuts, or if the meat will
not be eaten within the safe storage period, buying meat in quantity
may not be a good idea.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Buying Beef For Your Freezer," call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Cheese. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2609
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2609,
"Buying Cheese."
   Labels can help you learn the differences between cheese products.
Cheese is a common item on most grocery lists, but sometimes a
shopper selects cheese without reading and understanding the label.
   Cheese products may look alike on the shelf, but there are
differences in the production and contents of each product.  Learn to
understand the differences.  Then you can buy the right kind for your
use and perhaps try a new kind.
   Natural cheese, which starts with fresh milk, is produced by
separating milk solids from milk and curdling it with a bacteria
culture.  The curd is then separated from the whey and aged to
produce a variety of cheeses.
   The length of aging, or ripening, determines whether the cheese is
mild, medium or sharp.  The longer the aging, the richer the flavor
and the higher the cost.
   The production of pasteurized process cheese starts with a blend of
fresh and aged natural cheeses.  They are shredded, mixed and heated
to blend and develop a uniform flavor, body and texture.  The blend
may be one or more varieties of natural cheese and may contain
pimentos, fruits, vegetables or meats.  A smoked flavor may be added,
too.
   Add the word "food" to pasteurized process cheese and you have a
different product.  Cheese food is like process cheese, but it contains
less cheese and more nonfat dry milk or whey solids and water.  It
has a lower milk fat content and more moisture than process cheese.
   Cheese food is milder in flavor, soft and spreads easily.  It melts
quickly because of the higher moisture content.  It may contain other
ingredients and have a smoked flavor, too.
   Pasteurized process cheese spread is made like processed cheese
food but is higher in moisture and has a lower milk fat content.  It is
more spreadable than most cheese and may contain flavoring.
   Cheese is a good source of protein.  Add it to main dishes, salads
and sauces.  Serve it with fruit and crackers for a nutritional snack.
It's high in nutrition because it's a concentrated form of milk.
   For more information and suggestions about buying food or for a
free pamphlet called "What's New with Cheese," or "Cheese in Family
Meals," call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                                in your parish office of the LSUilyck.seysgoing 
-End-
-Title-
Buying Ground Beef. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2611
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2611,
"Buying Ground Beef."
   Ground beef is popular and usually costs less than many other
common meats.  It takes a smart shopper and an informed consumer,
however, to choose the best buys.
   The price of ground beef is usually affected by the fat content.
Consider taste and shrinkage when selecting ground beef.
   Products labeled "hamburger" or "ground beef" may contain up to 30
percent fat.  But hamburger may have seasoning or fat added from
other cuts; ground beef cannot contain either.  Because these meats
are highest in fat among ground beef products, use them for
hamburgers, spaghetti sauce, chili and Sloppy Joes.
   Meat labeled "ground chuck" comes from the primal chuck cut of
the beef.  It is usually leaner than hamburger or ground beef.  Ground
chuck will shrink less in cooking, but it has enough fat for good
flavor and juiciness.  It's good for Salisbury steak or beef burgers.
   "Ground round" is the leanest type of ground beef.  It's more
expensive but is good for low-calorie diets and special combination
dinner dishes.
   People often choose "ground sirloin" for special recipes and deluxe
hamburgers.  Many find ground chuck very similar to the more
expensive ground sirloin.  Before you spend extra money for sirloin,
try ground chuck and see if it suits your needs. 
For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free                  
pamphlet called "Your Beef Buying Guide," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Ham. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2612
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2612,
"Buying Ham."
   Ham is a favorite because it is easy to prepare and goes well with
a variety of foods and menus.
   If ham is fully cooked, the label will say so.  If the label makes no
distinction, cook the ham before you eat it.  Fully cooked hams may
be served without more cooking, but heating to an internal
temperature of 140 degrees F improves flavor and texture.
   When ham is cut into portions, the center section may be removed
and sold separately as ham steaks or center-cut slices.  The ends are
sold as "shank end" or "butt end."  Usually the shank portion has
more bone and the butt, more meat.  No slices are removed from the
half hams labeled "shank half" or "butt half."
   A picnic is not really a ham, since it is cut from the shoulder and
not from the hind leg.  It usually has more waste and fat and may
require longer cooking.
   Think in terms of servings per pound to get the best buy.  It's the
price per serving that counts.  A boneless ham will give three or four
servings a pound, and a bone-in ham two or three servings.
   "Water Added" on a label means only that the ham has retained
extra water from the curing process.  This moisture gives a juicier
ham. 
Store whole or half hams in the refrigerator at 40 degrees F or                 
lower for no longer than a week.  Canned hams may be kept,
unopened, for up to six months in the refrigerator.  Freezing hams for
long periods is not recommended because the salt used in curing can
speed flavor changes.  If you must freeze ham, wrap it in moisture-
proof wrap, seal it tightly and freeze for one or two months.
   For more information and suggestions about buying food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Buying Meat. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2613
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2613,
"Buying Meat."
   More than one-third of the money spent on food goes for meat,
poultry and fish.  To get the most for your food dollars, review your
meat-buying practices.  Here are some tips to help you:
   --Study the specials.  Sometimes chicken may be the best buy.  At
other times, the best buy might be ham, pork or beef.
   --Select the cuts and kinds of meat, poultry and fish that give the
most lean meat for the money.  Compare meats on a cost-per-serving
basis, not cost per pound.
   --Serve smaller amounts of meat, poultry and fish by combining
them with more economical foods such as potatoes, rice, macaroni,
noodles and breads.
   --Look for bargains.  Buy for future use if your budget allows, but
don't overbuy.  Prices change frequently.
   --Plan meals ahead.  For example, stew more chicken than you
need for one meal.  Freeze it to use later for chicken dishes, salads
or sandwiches.  Use the broth for soup.  Or buy ham on special and
use it for meals, casseroles or sandwiches; save the bone and drippings
for soup or beans.
   --Check the amount of service you're paying for.  An unsliced
roast usually costs less than one that is sliced and tied.  Whole
chicken is usually a better buy than chicken parts.  A whole turkey
usually provides more meat than boned, rolled turkey roast.
   --Use meat substitutes for some meals, but try to serve at least
one serving of meat, poultry or fish daily.  Meat substitutions include
eggs, dry beans, dry peas, peanut butter and cheese. 
--Study your total shopping list and purchases.  Make sure you're               
not spending money on nonessentials that might be spent for good,
nutritious foods your family needs.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Make Your Food Dollars Go Further," call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Milk. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/14/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2614
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2614,
"Buying Milk."
   Are you confused by the different kinds of milk available?  Don't
be.  Each has a purpose.  Read the labels and decide which kind of
milk suits your needs best.
   Whole milk has at least 8.25 percent nonfat milk solids, the source
of milk protein, minerals, and all the milk vitamins except vitamin A.
It has at least 3.5 percent fat -- the source of vitamin A.  Milk sold
in Louisiana has vitamin D added.  One cup of whole milk has 150
calories.
   Lowfat milk has 1 to 2 percent fat.  Read the label to see what
the percentage of fat is --1, 1+ or 2 percent.  All lowfat milk sold in
Louisiana is fortified with vitamins A and D.  Lowfat milk contains at
least 8.25 percent nonfat milk solids.  If it is labeled protein fortified
or high protein, then it has 10 percent nonfat milk solids.  The
number of calories in one cup will depend on the percentage of milk
fat and nonfat milk solids in the milk.  You'll have to read the label
to find out.
   Skim milk has had most of the fat removed.  It contains less than
1/2 of one percent milk fat.  It's fortified with vitamins A and D.  It
must contain not less than 8.25 percent nonfat milk solids.  If
additional solids, not fat, are added to reach the 10 percent level, it
must be labeled "protein fortified."  One cup has about 90 calories.
 
Cultured buttermilk is made by adding a special bacterial culture to   ied      
skim or lowfat milk to produce the desirable acidity, body, flavor and
aroma.  Salt is usually added.  Buttermilk has the same food value as
the milk from which it is made.  One cup averages about 90 calories.
The yellow flecks in some buttermilk are bits of real butter added for
flavor.  This buttermilk will be labeled "contains butter particles."  It
will be higher in calories.  Read the label for calorie information.
   Sweet acidiphilus milk is available in some parts of Louisiana.  It is
milk to which the bacteria lactobacillus acidophilus has been added.
Lowfat is used most often.  This milk tastes the same and has the
same nutritional value as the milk from which it is made.  This isn't a
substitute for those who are allergic to cow's milk.  But, people who
haven't been able to drink milk because of their inability to digest
milk sugar can now drink sweet acidophilus milk without suffering
from gas, cramps, or diarrhea.
   Chocolate milk is made by adding chocolate or cocoa and sweetener
to whole milk.
   Chocolate lowfat milk is made by adding chocolate or cocoa and
sweetener to lowfat milk.
   Chocolate drink is made by adding chocolate or cocoa and
sweetener to skim milk.  Adding chocolate adds calories, by the way.
   There are several imitation milks on the market now.  They are
usually advertised as containing no cholesterol or animal fat.  This is
true, but coconut oil is the source of fat in most of these products.
Ninety percent of the fatty acids in coconut oil are saturated, but
regular milk fat has only 60 percent saturated fatty acids.  If you
must restrict milk fat because of a cholesterol problem, replace whole
milk with skim milk.
 
Milk is a good buy economically and nutritionally.  Budget-minded   lesisd      
shoppers can find ways to save on milk purchases though.  Buy milk
in the largest size practical for your situation.  A larger container
usually means a lower price per quart.  If price is a real concern, use
instant nonfat dry milk.  It's the most economical.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Dairy Food Facts and Milk in Family Meals," call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Buying Pears. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2615
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2615,
"Buying Pears."
   Don't choose pears according to their color.  Color isn't a reliable
guide to their ripeness.  Some varieties are in prime condition when
they're green or greenish-yellow.  Others may be yellow and not ripe
enough to eat.
   Unlike many fruits, pears must be ripened off the tree for best
flavor and texture.  Pears in stores are usually conditioned to be one
to three days from ripeness, so buy pears about three days before you
want to eat them.
   Select fresh pears that are firm or fairly firm, but not hard.  Look
for well-shaped fruit that is free of blemishes.
   Keep fresh pears in a paper bag.  Store them in a not-to-warm
place, preferably about 60 to 70 degrees.  Keep them in a paper bag
because ripening pears give off gases which help each other ripen.  A
small damp sponge or cotton pad tucked in the bag will supply
moisture and help prevent shriveling.
   If you want to hold pears, refrigerate them as soon as possible
after purchase.  Take them out to ripen two or three days before
needed.  Check pears daily.  Some ripen faster than others.  Bartletts,
in particular, ripen fast and are ready for eating when the skin is
golden.
   Pears are good choices for dessert.  Their sweet flavor is low in
calories---
 about 70 in a medium-sized pear.  They're also good on cereal or in
fruit salads.  Pears can be stewed, pickled or glazed, too.
   For more information and suggestions about buying food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Buying and Storing Pecans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2616
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2616,
"Buying and Storing Pecans."
   Pecans are everyone's favorite nut meat.  The packaging and
treatment of pecans affect the time they remain high in quality.
Generally nuts in the shell keep better than shelled nuts.
   It takes roughly two pounds of pecans in the shell to get one
pound of nut meat.  One pound of shelled nuts measures about four
cups, but the size and condition of the nuts can make a difference in
the yield.  Whole nut meats give more cups per pound than halves,
pieces or chopped nuts.
   Buy nuts that are clean and free from scars, cracks and holes.
Shake nuts to see if the kernels rattle.  A kernel that rattles means
that the pecan is probably not well-filled.  Unshelled pecans keep well
at room temperature for four to eight months, but will keep in the
refrigerator for 18 to 36 months.
   When buying shelled nuts, choose plump, meaty nuts with a crisp,
brittle texture.  If they are to be used for garnish, try to get pecans
that are uniform in size and color.
   To preserve the freshness of shelled nuts, keep them in the
refrigerator in a tightly covered container.  Shelled pecans may last as
long as two months at room temperature, but they will keep as long
as two years at 40 degrees Fahrenheit if stored in freezer bags or
other tightly sealed containers.  Nuts are one of the few foods that
may be refrozen with safety and with no noticeable deterioration.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Louisiana Pecan--Using, Storing, Enjoying," call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Buying Strawberries. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/2/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2617
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2617,
"Buying Strawberries."
   Fresh strawberries have a short season.  Because strawberries don't
ripen after picking, you must select bright red berries to insure ripe,
freshly picked fruit with high food value.
   Strawberries are rich in vitamin C, a nutrient we need daily
because our bodies don't store it.  The fruit is especially attractive to
dieters because a cup of strawberries has only 55 calories.
   Flavor depends on variety and ripeness, not size.  Large berries
may be preferred for serving whole or to top a dessert.  Smaller
berries are fine for jams, jellies, preserves or for slicing.
   Buy clean berries.  Containers with red stains may indicate overripe
berries that are crushed.  If the caps are missing, berries may be
overripe and mushy.
   Strawberries require gentle handling.  Try to purchase them last
when you're shopping and take them right home. Plan to use
strawberries within two or three days.
   After you get the strawberries home, sort and discard damaged and
decayed berries.  Spread remaining berries on a flat dish or pan, cover
them with wax paper and refrigerate.
   Shortly before serving, wash berries gently and quickly in cold
water.  Remove caps when berries are clean and dry.
   Serve strawberries plain or add them to cereal.  Colorful, tasty
strawberries are good for salad plates or in fruit salads, cakes, pies,
pastries, hot breads, and preserves. 
For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free                  
pamphlet called "It's Strawberry Time," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
_30
-End-
-Title-
Buying Yams. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/1/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2618
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2618,
"Buying Yams."
   Louisiana yams are one of the most nutritious foods you can serve
your family.
   For best results, choose yams that are smooth and plump.  They
should be fresh, bright, dry and clean.  Pick yams that are similar in
color and shape.  This will ensure uniform cooking and color.  Slight
scars on the skins do not injure the flesh, but avoid yams with wet,
soft decay spots.
   Unless they are treated, yams have a short life.  Most yams
reaching markets in early fall are uncured and these uncured yams are
not suitable for baking.  Buy them in small amounts and use them
soon after purchase.
   Yams coming to market in late fall and winter have been cured.
This lengthens their life without affecting their food value.  If you
have suitable storage space with cool temperatures and high humidity,
you can buy cured yams in larger quantities.  Sort yams often and
remove any with signs of spoilage.
   Canned yams should be kept in a cool place until opened.  Once
opened, canned yams should be covered and put in the refrigerator.
All canned yams are wholesome.  Read the label and choose the style,
amount and brand or grade you like.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Select Louisiana Yams," call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Coupon Clipping. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/1/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2619
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2619,
"Coupon Clipping."
   Shoppers who use coupons for discounts, refunds and other offers
can save as much as 10 to 15 percent on groceries and household
products.
   This makes it worth the time it takes to clip and use coupons from
daily newspapers, advertising supplements and magazines.  Sort or file
coupons by food or product group and note expiration dates.  Attach
coupons to your grocery list or take them with you in an envelope or
small plastic bag.
   Buying items just to use coupons doesn't save money.  Use coupons
only for items you ordinarily buy or use them to try a new product at
a savings.
   Even greater savings can result when you use coupons for items
already on special.  Also, some stores double the discounts on coupons
on certain days.
   Coupons, discounts, refunds and other offers are made by
manufactures of nationally-advertised brands.  Often, you will find
that store brands or generic brands cost less than national
brand...even with a discount.  It's most important to compare prices
when you're shopping.
   When time permits, compare prices in several stores so you'll get
the best buys regularly.  The extra time it takes to compare prices
and use coupons wisely pays off when you get to the checkout
counter.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Managing Food Dollars. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2620
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2620,
"Managing Food Dollars."
   The important job of feeding your family grows harder with rising
food prices.  Planning ahead can help you save money.
   The amount of money available at one time for shopping, the
frequency of shopping, and your storage facilities can affect your
planning and buying.
   Try these suggestions when you're planning meals and shopping:
   -- Check weekly food ads and take advantage of specials on in-
season fruits and vegetables.
   -- Consider nutritional needs.  Each family member needs foods
from the four basic food groups:  meats, vegetables and fruits, milk,
bread, and cereals.  The amounts will depend on the ages of your
family members.
   --Check foods on hand in your freezer, refrigerator and shelves.
   -- Take into account your work schedule and the time you have for
food preparation.  If you don't have much time, you may be willing to
pay extra for convenience.
   -- Choose food in the most economical, convenient form.  This may
be fresh, frozen or canned.
   -- Try to improve your cooking skills.  The more you know about
cooking, the more economical and more interesting your meals will be.
   -- Use a shopping list that is flexible.  List similar foods together
and make a note of how much you need.
   -- Shop alone.  This helps you avoid unnecessary purchases.
   -- Shop after meals.  If you're full it is easier to resist impulse
buying. 
-- Compare the cost of generic brands,store brands, and national                
brands on a per serving basis.  Select the lowest cost item suitable
for your needs and your tastes.
   -- Use unit pricing information if it's available.  This can help you
compare costs at a glance.
   -- Substitute items that are not available with items that are
similar.  Buying a broiler instead of a fryer will make little difference
in your menu.
   -- Be sure frozen foods and meat items are bagged together.  This
helps these foods stay cold.  Go straight home after shopping so your
purchases can be stored properly as soon as possible.  Waste adds to
food costs.
   For more food buying information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Make Your Food Dollars Go Further," call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
service.

-End-
-Title-
Nutrition Labeling. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/20/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2622
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2622,
"Nutrition Labeling."
   The rapid development of new foods, new packaging and new
marketing methods makes it important for you to know the
nutritional content of the foods you buy.  Food labels can help you
make good choices in the supermarket.
   Most of the time, food labels will give you three kinds of
information...serving size and the number of servings...the number of
calories and grams of protein, carbohydrates and fats in each
serving...and the percentage of the U.S. Recommended Daily Allowances
for protein, five vitamins and two minerals found in each serving.
   The figures on the label are the minimum amount of nutrients the
product contains.  Use labels to figure the nutrient content of a
product or to figure out how an unfamiliar food might fit into your
diet.
   Labels can help when you're looking for the best nutritional buy,
too.  For example, you might check different brands to find out which
canned fruit offers the largest amount of vitamin C.
   If you're on a special diet, you may need to know how many
calories a food contains, or whether it is low in sodium.  If you're
concerned about cholesterol, you might want to know what kind of fat
a food contains.
   Most food manufacturers voluntarily include this kind of nutritional
information on their product labels.  Anytime a manufacturer claims
his food is "enriched" or "fortified"--or if he claims the food is high
is protein or low in fat--he must put a nutritional label on the item.
Look at the information on the label when you shop, so you'll know
what you are buying. 
For more information and suggestions about nutrition or buying                  
food, call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Reading Food Labels. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2624
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2624,
"Reading Food Labels."
   Labels on cans and packages serve as windows.  They give you the
inside facts and help you buy the product that is right for you and
your family.
   Reading labels helps you buy products for their intended use.  If
you're making soup, you don't need to buy whole fancy tomatoes.  You
can buy a less expensive kind because appearance won't be important.
   Reading labels helps you buy products that fit your budget.
Everyone needs vegetables, but there's a big price difference between
corn and asparagus.
   Labels help you buy the amount needed for your family.  Even
though a large size may cost less per ounce, it won't be a bargain
unless you use all of it.
   Reading labels lets you know what ingredients you're paying for.
The first ingredient listed is the one which occurs in the greatest
amount.  Be careful about products listing water as the first
ingredient.
   Reading labels helps you know how much convenience you're
buying.  Some pre-packaged dinners can be heated and served.  Others
need more ingredients.
   Labels give other valuable information, too.  Nutrition labeling must
appear on all fortified foods and all foods which make a nutritional
claim.  Many other foods carry nutrition labeling, too.  Nutrition
information includes calories, amount of protein, carbohydrates and
fats and percentages of seven vitamins and minerals needed for health
and well-being.  By reading and using nutrition labeling, you can plan
better meals, give your family a balanced diet, and select products
suited to special dietary needs.                 Most shoppers are
concerned about the quality of the food they buy.  The concept of
open dating gives you a general guide to product use.  Most dates on
products are a "pull" date -- the last permissible day of sale for that
item from its normal shelf position.  After that date, the item must be
pulled from regular sale.  This doesn't mean it is not good; it means
the product may not be at peak quality.
   To get the best results from food products, shop carefully.  Read
labels and transport and store foods properly.
   For more food buying information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Unit Pricing. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/1/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2625
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2625,
"Unit Pricing."
   If you understand unit pricing, you can tell what you're getting for
your food dollar.  The unit price of a product is the dollar and cent
cost per standard unit of weight or measurement:  the cost per pound,
quart, or number.  Many stores now have unit price labels on the edge
of the shelf under each product.
   Unit pricing is nothing new, nor is it required by law.  Some
products have carried unit pricing for years.  Meat, for example, has
been sold by the pound.  Many fresh vegetables and fruits are priced
by the pound.
   Canned and packaged foods are usually unit priced in terms of
cents per ounce.  Foods sold in larger amounts --- for instance, 5 or
10 pounds of flour or sugar --- may be unit priced by cost per pound.
Beverages may be unit priced by price per fluid ounce, quart, or
gallon.
   To find the unit price on an item, divide the price by the total
number of ounces or pounds for the item you're considering.  For
example:  If a 12-oz. can sells for 54 cents and a 16-oz. can of the
same product sells for 72 cents, which is the better buy?  In this
case, both cost the same -- 4.5 cents an ounce.  Let your needs
determine which you buy.
   Household items like detergents also carry unit pricing.  Frozen
foods may not be unit priced, so you'll have to make you own
calculations to find the best buy.  Items on sale or on special usually
don't have the revised unit price available.  This, then, is a good way
to check the amount of price reduction of the sale item to see if it's
really a bargain. 
Unit pricing compares price only.  It doesn't consider judgment of              
quality, performance or individual preferences.  It can be used to
compare costs among different brands of the same food, different sizes
of a product, and different forms of the same food.  It can also be
used to compare costs of different foods within the same food group.
   Tell the store manager if you find outdated unit price labels, labels
mounted in the wrong location or other problems with unit pricing.
This lets him know that unit pricing is being used.  It also encourages
accuracy on the part of store employees.
   For more information and suggestions about buying food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Fresh Fish, What To Look For. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2626
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2626, "Fresh Fish, What To Look For."
                 Fresh fish is a highly nutritious, economical addition
to any menu.  It usually costs less than other protein foods and is
easy to prepare -- cooking in minutes rather than hours.
        In addition to seafood and fish markets, many grocery stores
now offer a variety of fresh fish for sale.  If you recognize the signs
of good quality fish you can make better selections.
   Follow these guidelines when checking for good quality -- First,
check the skin of the fish.  It should be shiny, almost metallic, with
color that has not faded.  As the fish decomposes, its skin markings
and colors become less distinctive.
                 Look at the scales of the fish.  Scales should be
brightly colored and tightly attached to the skin.  The gills should be
red and free from slime.  As fish ages, the gills change color, fading
gradually to a light pink, then becoming gray and eventually brownish
and greenish.
        If the head is still on the fish, check the eyes.  They should
be bright, clear, transparent and full -- often protruding.  As the fish
decomposes, its eyes become cloudy, and may turn pink and shrink.
        The flesh of whole or dressed fish should be firm, elastic and
not separated from the bones.  As the fish decomposes, the flesh
becomes soft, slimy and slips away from the bones.  Fish fillets should
have a fresh cut appearance and color that resembles freshly dressed
fish.
        Last, but not least, don't forget to check for odor.  The odor
should be fresh or mild...not fishy.
        For more information about buying and using seafood,  call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Fresh Fish, How Much To Buy. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2627
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2627, "Fresh Fish, How Much To Buy."
        If you're wondering how much fish to serve, a two to three
ounce portion of cooked fish provides an adequate amount of protein
for one serving.  However, many people prefer a somewhat larger
portion.  The amount of fish to buy per person for a five ounce
serving should be -- one-third of a pound for fillets or steaks, one-
half pound for dressed fish, and three-fourths of a pound for whole
fish.
   Whole fish refers to fish just as it comes from the water.  The
fish must be scaled or skinned and the entrails must be removed.  The
head, tail and fin can also be removed if desired.
                 Drawn fish are whole fish with only the entrails
removed.  Usually it is scaled, but the tail, head and fins remain.
   Dressed fish is commonly sold at fish markets.  The fish is scaled,
then the entrails and usually the tail, head and fins are removed.
Small dressed fish are called pan-dressed fish.
        Chunks, steaks, and fillets of fish are already prepared for
cooking and freezing.  Chunks and steaks are cross-sections of large
dressed fish.  A part of the backbone is usually the only bone present.
Chunks may be four to six inches thick, and steaks are usually three-
fourths of an inch thick.
   Fillets are the boneless sides of the fish cut away from the
backbone.  Fillets are cut with a sharp knife from head to tail.
Certain kinds of fish, such as perch, sole, and flounder need not have
entrails removed before filleting.
   Butterfly fillets are cut so that the two sides of the fish
corresponding to the two single fillets are held together by the uncut
flesh and skin of the belly.                     For more
information about buying and serving seafood, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

###
-End-
-Title-
Fresh Shellfish, What To Look For. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2628
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2628, "Fresh Shellfish, What To Look For."
        Fresh shellfish will make a special occasion of just about any
ordinary  meal.  They're rich in protein and high in many essential
nutrients.  But before you buy shellfish, you want to make sure
they're the best.
        When selecting good quality shellfish, make sure that oysters
and clams in the shell are alive, and the shell is closed when handled.
Gaping shells mean that the shellfish is dead and should not be
purchased.
   Shucked oysters should be plump with a mild odor and a creamy
color.  The liquor should be clear and free from gas bubbles,
indicating fermentation.  There should be no sour odor.
   Check fresh shrimp for a fresh mild odor and firm texture.  The
shells should be greenish-gray to brownish in color, depending on the
kind of shrimp.  A red orange color may indicate that the shrimp is
decomposing.  Cooked shrimp should have red color in the shells and
the meat should have a reddish tinge.
        Live crawfish, crabs and lobsters should be alive, active, free
of mud and debris, with no unpleasant odor.  Cooked crawfish and
lobster tails should be curled, indicating that the shellfish were alive
at the time of cooking.
   For more information about what to look for when buying fresh
shellfish or for a free pamphlet called "Louisiana Seafood", contact the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Fresh Shellfish, How Much To Buy. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2629
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2629, "Fresh Shellfish, How Much To Buy."
   The amount of shellfish you need to buy varies with the size of
the shellfish, how you cook them, your recipe, and the size of the
serving.
        The general guide used in buying shrimp for one person is one
pound for whole shrimp -- one-fourth or one-half pound for headless
shrimp -- and three to four ounces for peeled tails used in cooked
dishes. The cooked portion peeled from shrimp, lobster, crab and
crawfish is one hundred percent edible. Headless shrimp is eighty
percent edible.
   When you buy live crawfish to be boiled and eaten, you should buy
about five pounds per person.  When you're buying peeled tails for
cooked dishes or salads, plan to use three to four ounces per person.
        One to two pounds or four to five hard shell crabs will feed
one person, while three to four ounces of shelled meat per person will
be enough for cooked dishes.
        When you buy oysters in the shell, plan to serve a half dozen
per person.   When you buy shucked oysters, buy one-half pint per
person.
        If you need more information about buying shellfish, contact
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Boiling Home Canned Foods Before Tasting. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2701
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2701, "Boiling Home Canned Foods Before Tasting."
   If you have the slightest doubt as to whether a home canned, low
acid food has been processed adequately, don't take a chance.  Boil
the food briskly in an open pan for 15 to 20 minutes.  This will help
assure that botulism, a type of food poisoning which causes paralysis
and even death, isn't present.  The deadly poison, or toxin, produced
by the bacteria will be destroyed by this boiling.
   The botulism bacteria is present in soil and may be brought into
the home on clothing, hands, food, etc.  It produces heat-resistant
spores which can be destroyed only by temperatures of 240 degrees
Fahrenheit, a temperature well above normal boiling temperature of
212 degrees.
   The prime targets for botulism growth are low acid, home canned
foods including vegetables and meats.  Fruits usually contain enough
acid to prevent its growth.
   Commercial canning equipment is designed to reach temperatures of
240 degrees, the temperature at which the botulism spores are
destroyed.  Home pressure canners will reach this temperature, too.
This special home equipment uses steam pressure to raise the boiling
point of food above the usual boiling point of 212 degrees.  Low acid
foods will be safe to eat if you use the recommended equipment, have
the equipment checked to make sure that the gauges are functioning
properly, and follow tested, reliable recipes. 
If botulism spores are not destroyed, they will grow in home                    
canned, low acid products.  The organism will multiply rapidly in the
moist, air-free environment of home canned products.  If you aren't
absolutely sure that a low acid food was processed at the
recommended time and temperature, don't taste it before boiling it for
15 to 20 minutes in an open pan.
   If you want more information about food safety, or if you would
like to receive the free pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," and "Keeping
Food Safe to Eat," call the home economist in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cook Pork Thoroughly. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2702
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2702, "Cook Pork Thoroughly."
   Pork must be cooked thoroughly to destroy a parasite occasionally
found in the meat.  To destroy this parasite, cook pork to an internal
temperature of 170 degrees Fahrenheit, a temperature which produces
the gray color of well-done pork.
   The trichinae parasite which may be found in pork can cause
trichinosis, which is characterized by abdominal pain, nausea, vomiting
and diarrhea.  There may be other symptoms, too, including fever,
swelling of the hands and face, and muscle paralysis.  Severe
infections may cause death.
   Trichinosis occurred more often in days past, when hogs were fed
uncooked food wastes.  Better control of rats and mice, which may be
hosts to the parasite, has helped to reduce the incidence of
trichinosis, too.  Government regulations now assure consumers that
frankfurters and other processed pork products are free from the
deadly parasite.
   Pork, an excellent source of protein, can be prepared in a variety
of ways.  It's also a good source of iron, thiamin and niacin.  To
enjoy pork, just be certain that it is well-cooked.
   You can get more information about food, nutrition and diets from
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Cooling Large Quantities of Food. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2703
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2703, "Cooling Large Quantities of Food."
   When you prepare food to be stored and then eaten later, it's
important that you cool that food rapidly to prevent the growth of
food poisoning organisms.  When you prepare large amounts of food
you need to pay special attention to cooling it because the larger the
amount of food, the longer it takes to cool.
   The best way to cool large amounts of food is to divide it into
smaller containers and cool it in the refrigerator or freezer.  Shallow
containers are best for quick cooling.  Large, deep containers prevent
food from cooling rapidly, especially the part of the food in the
center.
   Even in a refrigerator, the temperature at the center of a large
amount of food may stay warm enough for bacteria to grow, multiply,
and in some cases, produce toxins or poisons.
   There are several bacteria which cause food poisoning.  All grow
well on moist, protein-rich foods when they are exposed to
temperatures between 45 degrees and 140 degrees Fahrenheit.  These
protein-rich foods include meats, poultry, fish, shellfish, eggs and milk.
   To make sure that food poisoning doesn't occur with the foods you
prepare, remember these safety suggestions...
   Use sanitary food preparation methods...
   Make sure food stays either hot or cold...above 140 degrees
Fahrenheit or below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
   When food will be stored and eaten later, cool it as rapidly as
possible by putting it in shallow containers in the refrigerator or
freezer.
   Reheat stored foods or leftovers thoroughly before they are eaten.
They should be reheated to an internal temperature of 165 degrees
Fahrenheit.
   If you want more information and suggestions about food safety
and nutrition, or if you would like to have free copies of the
pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," and "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Feeding a Crowd Safely. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2704
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2704, "Feeding a Crowd Safely."
   When you are cooking for large groups, it's especially important to
serve safe, delicious foods.  Some key words to remember when you
are cooking for a crowd are:  prevention, cleanliness and care.
   To prevent food-borne illness, keep foods either hot (above 140
degrees Fahrenheit) or cold (below 40 degrees Fahrenheit).  Don't let
foods remain at room temperature.  If you prepare foods in advance,
refrigerate or freeze them, then reheat before serving.
   Cook meats thoroughly using reliable timetables.  Beef should be
cooked to an internal temperature of 140 degrees Fahrenheit, and
poultry and pork should be cooked to 165 degrees.  Use a meat
thermometer for best results.
   When you're serving hot dips, keep them hot in chafing dishes
designed for home use.  When you're serving cold dips or meat items,
serve small quantities at a time, and refill trays as needed.
   Cleanliness is essential.  Be sure all your equipment, utensils and
work surfaces are clean before you start to prepare the food.  Wash
your hands before you begin working with food and after touching
your mouth, nose or hair.  After preparing raw meat items, wash all
the equipment, work surfaces and your hands thoroughly with hot,
soapy water.
   Caring for leftovers is important, too.  Refrigerate or freeze them
immediately.  If you are freezing large amounts of food, put them in
shallow containers or in several small containers so they'll cool
rapidly.  This will help prevent bacterial growth.  
If you plan to keep cooked fruits and vegetables longer than 4 to 5             
days, or meat items longer than 2 to 3 days, freeze them instead of
refrigerating.  Put all items to be refrigerated or frozen in containers
designed to prevent moisture and vapor penetration, or wrap them in
moisture-vapor-proof packaging material.
   If you want more information about safe food preparation, or if
you would like to receive the free pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," or
"Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call the home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Food Poisoning Grows in Warm Temperatures. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2705
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2705, "Food Poisoning Grows in Warm Temperatures."
   The term food poisoning is used for any illness or disease caused
by eating food contaminated by bacteria.  Symptoms of food poisoning
may include abdominal pain, cramps, diarrhea, headache and fever.
   The most widely known causes of food poisoning are five bacterial
organisms which, when conditions are right, multiply and produce
poisons which cause illness.  To grow and reproduce, or multiply,
bacteria need moisture, warmth and a source of food.  Most need air,
too, but some can grow in sealed cans or jars.
   Because most bacteria grow best at body temperature or lukewarm
temperature, one of the most important things you can do to protect
yourself and your family from food poisoning is to keep foods at
temperatures where the bacteria will not grow.  The danger zone is
between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 125 degrees Fahrenheit.  Foods
held for more than 2 hours in this zone are subject to very rapid
growth of bacteria and production of toxins or poisons by the
organism.  The best holding temperatures for food are below 40
degrees Fahrenheit and above 140 degrees Fahrenheit.  At these
temperatures, you can prevent food poisoning.  Be sure to refrigerate
foods promptly after cooking and reheat as needed before serving.
   Foods that require special care include dishes which contain eggs
or milk.  Do not allow the following foods to stand at room
temperature:  cream, custard or meringue pies, and foods with custard
fillings, including cakes, cream puffs or eclairs.  Refrigerate them as
soon as they are prepared. 
Other foods that need special handling are items containing meats,              
poultry and fish.  If you must hold cooked meats, poultry or fish, keep
the temperature above 140 degrees Fahrenheit or below 40 degrees
Fahrenheit.  Reheat when ready to serve.  Refrigerate leftovers
immediately.  Try to refrigerate large quantities of food by dividing it
into smaller, shallow containers.
   Store stuffing and meat separately in the refrigerator before and
after cooking.  Also, refrigerate broth or gravy immediately after
cooking and bring it to a full, rolling boil before serving it again.
   If you want more information and suggestions about food and food
safety, or if you would like to have free copies of the pamphlets
"Serve Food Safely," and "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Food Poisoning Often Called Virus. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2706
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2706, "Food Poisoning Often Called Virus."
   If you have a headache, an upset stomach, fever or diarrhea, you
may have a virus, but it's also possible that you might have food
poisoning, illness caused by eating food contaminated with harmful
bacteria.
   Bacteria which cause disease enter the body in contaminated food,
then cause infections in the digestive tract.  Salmonella is one kind of
food poisoning that comes from eating food in which large numbers of
bacteria are growing.  Other bacteria may form poisons in food which
cause illness.  The most common foodborne illness in the United States
is probably "staph" food poisoning which results from toxins, or
poisons, formed by bacteria in food.
   Botulism also results from eating toxins produced by the growth of
bacteria in food.  This deadly food poisoning occurs in foods that have
been processed inadequately, as in home-canned products which have
not been processed at the correct temperature and time.
   Poor food handling practices often cause illness even though the
foods were safe to eat when they were bought and first prepared.
Lack of sanitation, too little cooking and improper storage can allow
bacteria to increase to dangerous levels.
   Foodborne illnesses are especially common during summer when
perishable foods are taken on picnics and held without refrigeration.
Food poisoning may occur anytime food isn't prepared properly or
handled properly.
   To protect your family from food poisoning, follow these
suggestions:
   Make sure dishes, utensils, kitchen equipment and work surfaces
are clean before you start to prepare food. 
Always prepare food with clean hands, fingernails and clothing.                 
   Wash your hands after touching raw meat or poultry.
   If you touch your face, mouth, nose or hair while preparing food,
wash your hands immediately.
   Keep hot foods hot and cold foods cold.  Foods should be kept
above 140 degrees Fahrenheit or below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, not at
temperatures in between.  If hot foods are not eaten soon after
they're cooked, refrigerate them and reheat before serving.  Be sure
you refrigerate these foods as soon as they are prepared:  cream pies,
custards, puddings, creamed meat dishes, sandwich fillings made with
mayonnaise, and potato salad.
   If food smells unusual, don't use it.  Don't use foods from cans
which are dented or bulging either.
   Before tasting any home-canned vegetables and meats, boil them for
15 minutes.
   Cook meat, poultry or fish by using tested recipes with reliable
tables for times and temperatures.  Use a meat thermometer to make
sure meats are cooked thoroughly.  Internal temperatures of beef, veal
and lamb should be at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit; poultry should be
165 degrees Fahrenheit; and pork 170 degrees Fahrenheit.
   For more information and suggestions about food and food safety,
or for free copies of the pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," and "Keeping
Food Safe to Eat," call the home economist in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Food Poisoning Possible Without Bad Odor or Taste. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2707
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2707, "Food Poisoning Possible Without Bad Odor or Taste."
   When food smells or tastes bad, you know that spoilage has
occurred, but some spoiled foods will have no changes in taste,
appearance or odor.  These are the ones that are dangerous.  They,
too, can cause food poisoning.
   Foodborne illness is fairly common in the United States.  It is
caused by eating food contaminated with bacteria which produce
poisonous substances called toxins.  Three factors contribute to the
growth of bacteria in food:  lack of sanitation, insufficient cooking
and improper storage.
   You can help to protect your family from food poisoning by
following these food safety tips:
   When you are preparing or serving food, be sure to have clean
hands, dishes, utensils, equipment and work surfaces.
   Don't touch your face, mouth, nose or hair when preparing or
serving food.  If you do, wash your hands before you handle food
again.
   Keep hot foods hot (above 145 degrees Fahrenheit) and cold foods
cold (below 40 degrees Fahrenheit).  If hot foods aren't to be eaten as
soon as they're cooked, refrigerate them, then reheat them before
they're served.
   Always refrigerate cream pies, custards, puddings, creamed meat
dishes, sandwich fillings with mayonnaise, and potato salad.  Do so
promptly after preparing.
   Before tasting any home-canned vegetables and meats, boil them for
about 15 minutes.
   Use tested recipes with reliable tables for times and temperatures
for cooking meats, poultry and fish. 
If you want more information and suggestions about nutrition and                
food safety, or if you would like to have a free copies of the
pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," and "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Handling Leftovers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2708
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2708, "Handling Leftovers."
   Leftovers are great for quick, easy, delicious meals and snacks, but
if they're not handled properly, they may cause food poisoning.  The
best thing to do with leftovers is to refrigerate them immediately
after the first time they're served.  Food poisoning can result when
foods are left at room temperatures for two to three hours.
Refrigerator temperatures of below 40 degrees Fahrenheit stop
bacteria from multiplying and also keep some bacteria from producing
poisons.
   Refrigerate foods in containers designed for food storage or in
other containers wrapped with moisture-vapor-proof materials.  This
will keep air from getting to the food and drying it out.  It also
keeps odors from transferring.  To make sure food cools promptly, use
large, shallow containers instead of deep containers.
   Most leftover fruits and vegetables will keep 4 to 5 days.  Meat
leftovers may be stored 2 to 3 days.  If you need to store leftover
foods longer than this, put foods in proper containers and freeze
them.  Before serving leftover meats, heat them to 165 degrees
Fahrenheit all the way through.  Before serving gravies, soups and
gumbos, bring them to a full, rolling boil.
   If you take care of leftovers, they'll be as tasty as they were when
you first served them.
   If you want more information and suggestions about food and food
safety, or if you would free copies of the pamphlets "Serve Food
Safely," and "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
How Long Does Frozen Food Keep? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2709
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2709, "How Long Does Frozen Food Keep?"
   Your home freezer can be a real time-saver for today's busy
lifestyle.  It can store meats, fruits and vegetables and many items
which can be prepared ahead:  casseroles, main dishes, foods for
parties or snacks, and even entire meals packaged in individual
portions.
   You do need to remember three important points about keeping
frozen foods fresh and safe to eat.  First, choose quality food
products.  Two, maintain the freezer temperature at zero degrees
Fahrenheit or lower, and three, use appropriate freezer packaging
materials.
   You need to choose quality food products because a frozen food
item will be only as good as the original product.  Follow
recommended procedures for preparing foods for freezing, such as
blanching for fresh vegetables.
   A freezer temperature of zero degrees or below is essential for
keeping frozen foods safe and delicious.  Use a freezer thermometer to
check the temperature of your freezer.
   If you use containers and materials designed for home freezing, you
can avoid freezer burn.  This means using moisture-vapor-proof plastic
bags and wraps, freezer wrap, freezer containers and heavy-duty foil.
   When you package the foods, date them with an expiration date
based on maximum storage times.  Storing foods longer isn't
dangerous, but flavors and textures may change when foods are stored
longer than recommended times.  Be sure the temperature in your
freezer is zero degrees or lower.
   Here are some of the maximum storage times recommended by
USDA for maintaining good quality:  fruits and fruit juice
concentrates, l year; vegetables, 8 to 12 months; bread, rolls and
doughnuts, 3 months; cakes, 2 to 4 months; fruit cake, l year; pound
cake, 6 months; unbaked pies, 8 months. 
Beef, such as hamburger meat, steaks and roasts, 2 months; cured                
pork, 2 months; fresh pork chops, 4 months; pork roasts, 8 months;
and pork sausage, 2 months.  Veal cutlets, chops and roasts, 9 months;
cooked meat dinners, meat pies or Swiss steak, 3 months; cut-up
chicken, 9 months; whole chicken, l year; chicken livers, 3 months;
duck, goose and cut-up turkey, 6 months; whole turkey, l year; cooked
chicken or turkey dinners or pies, 6 months; fried chicken, 4 months.
   Fish fillets, 3 to 6 months; crab meat, 3 months; oysters, 4 months;
shrimp, l year; cooked fish and shell fish, 3 months; and ice cream or
sherbet, l month.
   You can get more information and suggestions about buying,
preserving and storing food from the home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Picnic Foods and Safety. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2711
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2711, "Picnic Foods and Safety."
   Warm weather often means picnics and outdoor fun.  Too often,
foodborne illness is associated with picnics.  Follow these suggestions
to keep your picnic foods safe to eat.
   Choose your picnic menu carefully.  Disease-producing bacteria
prefer foods high in protein and moisture.  These foods include milk
products, eggs, poultry, meats, fish, shellfish, cream pies, custards and
potato salad.  If you can't keep foods at the proper temperature to
prevent bacterial growth, don't plan to take these foods on a picnic.
The temperatures which prevent bacterial growth are either above 140
degrees or below 45 degrees.  If temperatures are a problem, choose
canned, preserved or dehydrated foods and fresh fruits and
vegetables.
   Food preparation is another important aspect of getting ready for a
picnic.  Before you prepare food, be sure to wash your hands and the
utensils and equipment you will use.  Cook food thoroughly to the
proper temperature.  Cook pork, poultry, custards and cream fillings to
a temperature of 165 degrees.  Use a meat or cooking thermometer to
make sure food reaches 165 degrees.
   Keep prepared food hot (above 140 degrees) or refrigerate it
immediately after preparation.  Use frozen bread and chilled fillings
for sandwiches to help keep them cold. 
Storing foods properly can help keep your picnic free from                      
foodborne illness, too.  Hot foods should be stored and transported in
insulated containers such as an ice chest, for short trips.  For longer
trips, refrigerate foods at 45 degrees or colder, then reheat them
before you eat them.
   Cold foods can be kept below 45 degrees in an ice chest.  You can
use ice, dry ice or cold packs to keep temperatures low.  If you use
dry ice, put it on top of the food.  Store foods to be chilled in
shallow containers.  They provide more surface area for foods to stay
cold.
   When you're serving picnic foods, place them on a clean tablecloth
spread on the picnic table or ground.  After the meal, put leftovers
back in the ice chest immediately.  If food has stayed out at unsafe
temperatures, throw it away.  Do not take a chance on eating foods
which might make you sick.
   Follow these suggestions for food safety.  Make sure your picnic is
an enjoyable experience.
   If you would like to have more information about food preparation
or food safety, or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Keeping Food Safe To Eat," call the home economist in your parish
office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Preventing Botulism. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2712
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2712, "Preventing Botulism."
   Botulism is a deadly type of food poisoning caused by  bacteria in
soil and is carried into the home on clothing, hands, food, etc.  It
grows best at temperatures between 70 degrees and 110 degrees
Fahrenheit -- in other words, at room temperature.
   The bacteria itself is easily destroyed by boiling temperatures, 212
degrees Fahrenheit.  The problem is that the bacteria produces spores
which are very resistant to heat.  These spores produce the poison
that causes the deadly food poisoning called botulism.
   The poison, or toxin, is so powerful that one teaspoon of the pure
substance can kill thousands of people.  Researchers who study the
botulism organism must be extremely careful to avoid contact with it.
The only way to destroy these spores is to heat them to 240 degrees
Fahrenheit, a temperature much higher than boiling.  This high
temperature can be reached only by equipment in commercial canning
operations or by using a standard pressure canner in home canning.
   Because the bacteria live and grow without air, home canned, low
acid foods which have been improperly processed at temperatures lower
than 240 degrees are prime targets for botulism growth.  Botulism is
rarely found in commercially canned foods;  it is much more often
associated with home canned foods.
 
In the warm, moist, air-free environment of low acid, home canned   r12         
foods which have not been processed at the correct temperature, the
organism grows easily and produces its toxin.  Low acid foods include
meats, vegetables and milk.  Most fruits contain enough acid to
prevent botulism growth and can be processed using a water bath.
Any time food is processed at home, it is imperative to follow tested
recipes for processing times and temperatures.
   The botulism poison can be destroyed by brisk boiling in an open
pan for about 15 to 20 minutes.  Any home canned, low acid food
about which you have the slightest question should be boiled for 15 to
20 minutes before you taste it.
   If you have questions about food safety and sanitation, or if you
would like to receive the free pamphlets "Serve Food Safely," or
"Canning Vegetables," or "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Reheat Gravies, Dressings and Meats to Boiling. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2713
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2713, "Reheat Gravies, Dressings and Meats to Boiling."
   Gravies, dressings, meats and other protein-containing foods are
excellent sources for bacterial growth which cause food poisoning.
Food poisoning is caused by preparing and storing foods improperly.
Lack of sanitation, insufficient cooking and improper storage are major
causes of food poisoning.
   Highly perishable foods including meat, poultry, dressing, gravy,
seafood, cream pies, puddings, potato salads and dishes made with eggs
are those most likely to become contaminated.
   To prevent food poisoning, use tested recipes with reliable tables
for temperature and time.  Using a meat thermometer can help you
make sure that meats are cooked thoroughly.  Internal temperatures of
beef, veal and lamb should reach at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit.
Poultry should reach 165 degrees and pork should reach 170 degrees.
Bacteria can survive in partially cooked meats, so don't plan to cook
meats, poultry or fish only partially and hold for final cooking until
later.
   Dressing is a common source of foodborne illness.  Store dressing
and meat separately in the refrigerator.  Stuff thawed poultry, fish or
meat just before roasting.  Put dressing in lightly without packing to
allow adequate heat penetration.  Make sure that dressing, either
inside meat or cooked separately, reaches a temperature of at least
165 degrees Fahrenheit during cooking.  Use a meat thermometer to
make sure.  Keep cooked meat, fish, poultry and dressing hot (above
140 degrees) until they are served.  
To serve leftover meat, dressing and gravy, heat thoroughly.  Boil              
leftover broth and gravies for several minutes before eating them.
Boiling will help to make sure bacteria are destroyed.
   For more information about food safety or for two free pamphlets
entitled "Serve Foods Safely," and "Keeping Foods Safe to Eat," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Sack Lunches--Safety Tips. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2714
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2714,
"Sack Lunches--Safety Tips."
   Whether you brown-bag it to save money or because it's
convenient, you need to follow some food safety suggestions to be
sure your brown-bag doesn't cause you more trouble than it's worth
   Often when kids come home from school with stomach cramps and
vomiting, parents just dismiss the problem as a "bug" that's going
around.  However, the "bug" may be a case of food poisoning caught
from an innocent bag lunch.
   The key to packing a safe lunch is to keep hot foods hot, cold
foods cold and everything clean.  The bacteria that cause food
poisoning live and grow at room temperatures.  You should shouldn't
let food set at room temperature for more than one or two hours.
   Foods that should be kept cold include fried chicken, potato salad,
ham, beef, poultry, eggs and egg sandwiches.  Meat salads like ham,
chicken, and egg are especially susceptible to food germs because they
were handled more during preparation.
   Ideally, you should put your lunch in a refrigerator where you work
or where you go to school.  Of course, this isn't always possible...so
you should use a lunch box whenever you can...instead of a bag.  The
box tends to hold cold better than a bag.
   A cold device such as a commercial freezing gel, can be put into
the lunch box...or you can use a small plastic tub filled with frozen
water or a bag filled with ice to help keep the food cold.
 
Certain types of sandwiches can be frozen...when you use these   ozeno          
they'll thaw by the time you're ready them at noon.  Also, wrap your
lettuce and tomato separately and put them on your sandwich when
you're ready to eat it.  Tomato and lettuce don't freeze very well.
   An insulated vacuum bottle will keep certain kinds of foods hot or
cold.  These bottles are good for foods like soup, stews, and chili.
These foods should be boiling hot when you pour them into the bottle.
   There are some foods which need neither heating or cooling...foods
like dry meats, peanut butter, non-perishable cheeses and cheese
spreads.  Canned meats and poultry products are good in lunches if
they're eaten as soon as they're opened.
   Keeping food, dishes and utensils clean while you're preparing the
lunch will help keep the bacteria from spreading.  Be sure you keep
countertops clean and you wash your hands and utensils in soap and
hot water.
   Wrap foods in clean wrap.  Wash and rinse food storage bottles
with boiling water after each time you use them. If you use brown
paper bags, buy them specifically for lunches.  Bags from grocery
stores may already be contaminated from insects or food leakage.
   Remember that food can be contaminated with enough bacteria to
make you sick and it won't look bad or taste bad or smell bad.  Keep
your lunches safe by keeping hot foods hot, cold foods cold and
everything clean.
   For more nutrition information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Keeping Food Safe to Eat," call the home economist
in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Safety of Frozen Canned Goods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2715
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2715, "Safety of Frozen Canned Goods."
   Some of your commercially canned goods may have frozen during
the severe cold weather of winter.  To make sure that these frozen
canned goods are safe to eat, follow these safety rules:
   When below freezing temperatures are forecast, check canned goods
often if they are stored in areas where they might freeze.  If you
can, move them to warmer areas so they won't freeze. Freezing may
cause cracks to develop in cans as the frozen food expands.  As the
food thaws, bacteria can enter the cracks and cause the food to spoil
in warmer temperatures.
   If only a small amount of canned food has frozen, keep the food
frozen in your freezer, and use it within a couple of weeks.  Frozen
jellies and pickles can be kept in the refrigerator and used for a
longer period of time than can frozen fruits and vegetables.
   For a moderate amount of frozen canned goods, transfer them to
your freezer and use within two to three months.
   If you don't have enough freezer space to store all of your frozen
canned goods, put them in a storage area where the temperature is
about 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit to allow them to thaw completely.
   Don't use these foods for one week.  After one week, check cans
and jars for signs of spoilage.  Signs of spoilage include breaks in
seals or seams, bulging cans, and streaks or particles of food on the
outside of the containers.  If you see any of these signs, throw away
the items. 
Or, as soon as foods thaw, open the can or jar and refreeze the                 
contents in appropriate containers or re-can the foods, using
appropriate home canning equipment and procedures.  When you are
re-canning, be sure to follow directions provided in reliable references.
Don't re-can commercially canned soups.  These products require
longer heat sterilization times than those given in home canning
references.
   You can get more information and suggestions about food safety
from the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Thawing Frozen Foods Safely. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2716
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2716, "Thawing Frozen Foods Safely."
   Thawing frozen foods at room temperature isn't a good idea
because as the foods thaw, bacteria begin to grow and multiply at the
warmer temperatures.  It's best to thaw frozen foods in the
refrigerator where the temperature is low enough to prevent the
growth of bacteria.  Thawing time in the refrigerator will vary, but
foods may be cooked without thawing.
   If you need to thaw poultry in a hurry, it's best to use cold tap
water.  Leave the original wrapper on the bird and submerge it in cold
water, changing the water often, until the poultry thaws.
   It takes turkeys 3 to 4 days to thaw in the refrigerator, but you
can thaw turkey safely at room temperature by wrapping it in a
double layer of large grocery bags.  Simply place one grocery bag
inside the other and place the turkey in its original wrapper inside the
bags; close ends completely.  You could also use several thicknesses of
newspapers tied around the turkey with string.  An 8- to 10-pound
turkey should thaw in 10 to 12 hours.
   Microwave defrosting is another choice.  Just follow the
recommended procedures, because food can start cooking while it is
defrosting.  Among the recommended procedures are these suggestions:
   Read manufacturer's recommendations for defrosting.
   Turn or rotate foods that can't be stirred.
   Separate pieces of food, such as chicken, as soon as pliable.
   Let large items stand in the microwave to finish defrosting. 
Cover foods with waxed paper during defrosting.  This promotes                  
even heat distribution.
   If you want more information about nutrition and food safety, or if
you would like a free copy of the pamphlet "Preparing Holiday Foods,"
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
What to do if Your Freezer Stops. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2717
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2717, "What to do if Your Freezer Stops."
   If your home freezer will be off for a long time, there are some
things you can do to keep food from spoiling.
   First, keep the freezer door closed.  Do not open the freezer
except to add dry ice or to move food to a food locker plant or
another freezer.
   Try to determine how long the freezer will be off.  If the freezer
will be running within a few hours, you don't have to worry.  If
power is off, try to find out when it will be restored.  If the freezer
is out of order, consult your instruction book to see if you can do
anything to get it running again.  If not, try to find how long it will
take a service representative to have it operating again.
   Determine how long food will keep.  This depends on several
things:  the amount of food in the freezer, the kind of food, the
temperature of the food, the freezer itself, and the size of the
freezer.  A fully loaded freezer will be O.K. for 2 days, but one only
half-full will keep only a day.  A freezer full of meat will stay colder
longer than one filled with baked goods.  The colder or more solidly
frozen the food, the longer it will stay frozen.  A freezer that is
well insulated will keep food frozen longer than one with little
insulation.  And, the larger the freezer, the longer food will remain
frozen.
   If your freezer will be out of order for several days, you'll need to
move the food to a freezer-locker plant.  Wrap food in plenty of
newspaper or blankets or use insulated boxes for transporting it.  If
locker space isn't available, you can add dry ice to your freezer.  The
more you use, the colder your food will be.  Put heavy cardboard
directly on packages of food, then put the dry ice on top of the
cardboard.       If you would like more information about food
storage and safety or if you would like to have a free copy of the
pamphlet "What to Do When Your Home Freezer Stops," call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
When Can You Refreeze Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2718
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2718, "When Can You Refreeze Foods."
   By the time you discover your freezer isn't working, some frozen
foods may be partially or completely thawed.  Partial thawing and
refreezing reduces the quality of foods, especially fruits, vegetables
and prepared foods.
   If foods still contain ice crystals, or if they are still cold (about 40
degrees Fahrenheit), you may refreeze them safely.  No food that has
warmed above 40 degrees -- except strong, acid fruits -- should be
refrozen.
   Fruits can usually be refrozen safely even if they have thawed.
They may begin to ferment, but a little fermentation won't make them
dangerous, even if it spoils the flavor.  If thawed fruits still taste and
smell good, you can refreeze them or use them in cooking and baking
or for making jams, jellies and preserves.
   Meats and poultry become unsafe to eat when they start to spoil.
If color or odor is poor or questionable, don't use the food.  It may
cause food poisoning.  You can refreeze beef, veal and lamb that show
no signs of spoilage.  If the package has been opened, rewrap meat
before refreezing.
   Sometimes you can't tell by the odor if vegetables, shellfish or
cooked foods have spoiled.  Bacteria multiply rapidly in these foods, so
don't refreeze any of these foods if they have thawed completely.  If
ice crystals still remain, you can refreeze the food immediately, but
the quality may suffer.  If you're in doubt, get rid of it.  It may be
dangerous.  Unfrosted cakes, uncooked fruit pies, breads and rolls can
be refrozen safely, but never refreeze melted ice cream, cream pies or
other cream-filled foods. 
If you want to refill your freezer, clean it before restocking.                 
Refreeze foods quickly.  To get a quick refreeze, take foods to a
commercial food locker.  Wrap them in newspapers and blankets before
moving them to the locker or back to your freezer.
   To refreeze food at home, turn the temperature control to its
coldest position.  Place the warmer packages against the refrigerated
surface if possible, but make sure air can circulate around them.
When the food is well frozen, turn the temperature control to its
usual setting.  If the freezer is too full, put the coldest packages in
the refrigerator and return them to the freezer gradually.  Foods that
have been frozen and thawed need the same care as foods that have
never been frozen.  Label them with the new freezing date and use
the refrozen foods as soon as possible.
   For more information and suggestions about food storage and food
safety or for a free copy of the pamphlet "What to do When Your
Home Freezer Stops," call the home economist in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Canning Fruits Without Sugar. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                           Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Turner)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2806
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2806,
"Canning Fruits Without Sugar."
   It's possible for you to can fruits in water...or in their own
liquids...or in extractracted juice...that is to say...without
sugar.  But sugar helps canned fruit hold its shape and it adds
color and flavor to the final product.
   However, to can fruits without sugar, you can use either the raw
or hot pack method...the hot pack method is preferred.  Cover the
fruit with hot juice or water leaving one-half inch of head room.
If you want to add an artificial sweetener, you'll probably get the
best results if you wait until you serve the fruit because some of
these products tend to get bitter when they're heated and you will
be heating the jars of fruit.
   Before you close the jar, you may want to add a quarter teaspoon
of crystalline ascorbic acid to each quart of light fruit to keep it
from turning dark.
   Then put on the lid and screw down the bands tightly and heat
them a in boiling water bath canner.
   For more canning information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "Canning Louisiana Fruits," call the home economist
in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Why Canned Fruits Float. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Turner
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 2821
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2821,
"Why Canned Fruits Float."
   Unfortunately, there's not a lot you can do about any jars of
fruit that you have now in which the fruit is floating...but you can
try to keep it from happening the next time you can.
   Floating may be prevented or at least reduced if you select firm,
ripe fruit for canning...by using a light to medium syrup and by
using the hot pack method of canning.
   Pack the fruit in the jars as tightly as you can without crushing
it...keeping in mind that you still need to leave a half-inch of
headspace.
   After you've filled the jar, insert a silver or stainless steel
knife inside the jar to drive out any air bubbles.  Then make sure
you're using the right amount of time and the right method for
processing the particular kind
of fruit you're canning.
   For more canning information and suggestions or for a free copy
of a pamphlet called "Canning Louisiana Fruits," or  a pamphlet
called "Ways With Peaches," or  a pamphlet called "Ways With Pears,"
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Why Jars Don't Seal. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/23/82 (Turner)
Area:  State

                          Tele-Tip 2823
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 2823,
"Why Jars Don't Seal."
   There are several reasons why a jar may not seal after it has
been processed.  Unfortunately, the most common reason is the
failure of the person doing the processing to read and follow the
instructions on the package of lids.
   Since each manufacturer uses different materials to make the
sealing compound around the edges of the lids, it's very important
that you follow the directions on the package.
   Even if you do follow all the directions, a jar may fail to seal
because you left the wrong amount of head space at the top of the
jar when you were filling it...or you may have forgotten to "knife
out" any air bubbles inside the jar.
   Other failures may be caused by defective jars or the use of jars
that are not considered standard canning jars.
   Also, if don't process some jars long enough, they will fail to
seal.  Follow the recommended processing times and methods given in
a reliable canning book.
   Food on the sealing edge of jars may cause a bad seal.  Not
holding an even, steady temperature during processing may also
result in food on the sealing edge of jars.  The same thing may
happen if steam is released too quickly after processing.  Let the
pressure in the canner reach the zero point naturally before you
remove the cover.
   Using bands that have dents, rusty spots or warped edges may
cause uneven pressure on the lid and keep the jar from sealing.
 
Tightening or loosening the screw band immediately after   ing.uhensftn         
processing may cause sealing problems.  Again, check the
instructions on the box of lids to know how to handle them
correctly.
   For more canning information and suggestions, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Defrosting Your Refrigerator. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2904
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2904, "Defrosting Your Refrigerator."
   Today's refrigerators have one of three defrost systems:  manual
defrosting, automatic or cycle defrosting, and frostless or no-frost.
The systems are defined by the Association of Home Appliance
Manufacturers as follows:
   No-frost or frostless refrigerator:  A no-frost refrigerator or
freezer is operated automatically to prevent the permanent formation
of frost on refrigerated plates or coils in the freezer and refrigerator.
No ice or frost forms on the stored food.  The water from defrosting
is disposed of automatically.  These frostless or no-frost models never
need defrosting, but they do need cleaning periodically.
   Automatic or cycle defrosting refrigerator/freezer:  In these
models, the refrigerator has automatic defrosting but the freezer must
be defrosted manually.  The automatic or cycle defrosting units can be
recognized by the cold plate at the interior back of the refrigerator
cabinet.
   The third type is a manual defrosting refrigerator.  Few
refrigerators manufactured today must be defrosted manually.  These
models usually have a single door and a small freezing compartment at
the top.  They are usually found in apartments and cottages or as
second refrigerators.
   If you have a manual defrost unit or one in which a buildup of
frost is visible, you'll need to defrost it when the frost is about one-
fourth inch thick.  Otherwise the refrigerator won't work as well as it
should.
   To defrost or clean the freezer, turn the cold control to off or
defrost and remove ice cubes and other frozen items.  Wrap items
together in several layers of newspaper or put them in an insulated
picnic hamper or cooler.  
To defrost quickly, place pans of warm water in the freezer unit,               
warm the area with a hair dryer, or use the crevice tool of your
vacuum cleaner, attaching the hose to the exhaust end of the cleaner.
To avoid the possibility of shock, unplug the refrigerator.  Don't chip
off the frost with a sharp object because you may damage the
compartment.  Collect and throw away the defrost water.  Wash the
compartment with a baking soda solution, rinse it and wipe dry.  Wipe
off any moisture on the frozen food before returning items to
freezer.
   All refrigerators, whether they are defrosted manually or not, need
to be cleaned periodically.  The best time to clean a refrigerator is
when the food supply is lowest.  Throw away any spoiled food.
Refrigerators can absorb odors from spoiled or strong-smelling foods.
To remove odors and spills, clean the inside with a clean cloth wrung
out in a solution of one tablespoon of baking soda to one quart of
warm water.  Rinse with clean water and wipe dry.  Clean the folds in
the gasket seal around the door with mild sudsy water, rinse and
wipe dry.  Vacuum or dust the condenser coils or fins located on the
back or bottom of the refrigerator.  Removing dust from these areas
and not allowing frost to build up will help the refrigerator run more
efficiently.
   For more information about caring for the appliances in your home,
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Foods that do not Freeze Well. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2905
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2905, "Foods that do not Freeze Well."
   Some foods just aren't suitable for freezing because of the changes
that take place in the process.  Here are some foods that don't freeze
well:
   Hard cooked egg whites become tough and rubbery.  If you're
planning to freeze egg whites in chicken salad sandwiches, for
example, chop them finely or put them through a sieve.
   Mature Irish potatoes used in soups, stews or meat pies become
spongy and unappetizing.  Salad greens lose crispness, so don't freeze
them.  Radishes, celery, cucumber and green onions become soft, but
if you will use them only in cooking, this softness won't be a problem.
   Tomatoes become limp and watery.  Tomatoes also change color and
flavor.  If you want to freeze tomatoes to use later in cooking, it's
best to cook them before you freeze them.  Raw apples and grapes
become soft and mushy when they're frozen, and apples will turn dark,
too.
   Cream cheese becomes grainy and crumbly, but cream cheese
freezes well when combined with cream, salad dressings or mayonnaise.
Pasteurized whipping cream separates on freezing, but the new ultra-
pasteurized cream freezes well.  Check the label.  Pasteurized
whipping cream can be whipped and frozen.  Place dollops of whipped
cream on a cookie sheet, freeze, remove from the cookie sheet and
store in moisture-vapor-proof freezer bags.
   Don't freeze custard pies, cream puddings and pie fillings because
they will weep and change texture.  Large amounts of mayonnaise tend
to separate during freezing and thawing.  It's fine to freeze small
amounts of mayonnaise for mixing meat salads or when it's combined
with whipped cream or cream cheese.  Frozen pie meringues will be
tough and will stick to freezer wrap. 
Cake icings made with egg whites (like boiled icings or seven-                  
minute icings) become frothy or weep when thawed.  Don't try to
freeze cream fillings because they will weep.
   Freezing fried foods is a problem, too, because except for french
fries and onion rings, they will lose their crispness and become rancid.
NEVER freeze stuffing or dressing inside the cavity of raw or cooked
poultry.  You can freeze poultry and dressing separately, but when
they're frozen together, they are highly susceptible to food poisoning.
   For more information on freezing foods or for a free pamphlet
called "Freezing Cooked and Prepared Foods," call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Cheese. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2906
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2906, "Freezing Cheese."
   Some kinds of cheese can be frozen with only slight damage to
texture or eating quality.  Others don't fare so well because they
undergo some undesirable changes.  The cheeses that do freeze well
are the hard and semi-hard cheeses, such as Cheddar, Swiss, Edam,
Gouda and Brick.  The ones that change when they are frozen are the
soft cheeses such as Liederkranz, Limburger and Camembert.  Blue
cheese and Roquefort tend to crumble after freezing and thawing, so
we don't recommend freezing blue cheese or Roquefort.
   Whole cheeses such as longhorns or loaves in their original wax
coatings are protected against moisture loss if the wax coating isn't
broken.  It's wise to wrap them again though.  It may be more
convenient to cut these cheeses into smaller portions and wrap them
before you freeze them.  As a rule, don't freeze individual pieces
larger than one pound because they won't freeze fast enough.
   Cheese should be wrapped in moisture-vapor-proof material like
heavy duty aluminum foil or freezer paper or put in specially designed
freezer bags.  Be sure to press the wrapping close to the surface of
the cheese so air pockets and drying can be prevented.
   Sometimes cheese becomes dry and crumbly after it's frozen
because of the crystallization of moisture during freezing.  There's
also a tendency for cheese to lose surface moisture unless it is sealed
tightly.
   When you take cheese out of the freezer, it may look mottled
because of the frozen moisture on its surface.  Don't worry, the
cheese will regain its normal color once it thaws completely.  Thaw
cheese slowly and leave the wrapper on so it won't lose moisture.  It's
better to thaw cheese in the refrigerator or in a cool room overnight.
   For more information on freezing specific foods, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Corn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2907
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2907, "Freezing Corn."
   There are three recommended ways of freezing fresh corn...on the
cob, whole kernel and cream style.  Corn should be frozen...if
possible...within two-to-three hours after it is picked.  The sugar in
corn begins to turn to starch after the corn is picked, so the sooner
you freeze it the sweeter it will be.
   If you must pick the corn a day or two before you freeze it, leave
the shucks on it and spread out in a cool place...or, take off the
shucks and store the corn in plastic bags in the refrigerator.
   When it comes time to freeze the corn, work with small amounts.
Shuck the corn, remove the silks, trim the ends and wash it.
   Now, to freeze corn on the cob...sort the ears according to size
and blanch them.  Put about a pound of corn into a gallon of boiling
water.  Start counting the blanching time when the water returns to a
boil.  Blanching time longer for corn-on-the-cob because the cob must
get hot enough to deactivate enzymes.
   You should blanch small ears of corn for seven minutes...medium
sized ears for nine minutes...and large ears for eleven minutes.
   Take the corn from the boiling water and chill it thoroughly in ice
water.  It's important that you cool the corn long enough for the cob
to cool...however, if the corn is left in the water too long, it will
become soggy.
A rule of thumb is that it takes as long to cool the corn as it does to
blanch it.
 
After the corn is blanched, then you should drain off the water   es to.        
and wrap each ear separately in plastic film or freezer foil.  You can
put several ears together in one freezer bag or you can wrap several
ears together in freezer paper.  Try to remove as much air as you can
from the package.
   Here's how you freeze whole kernel corn.  First, while the corn is
still on the cob, blanch it for four minutes, then chill it and drain off
the water.
Cut the kernels off the cob at about two-thirds the depth of the
kernels.  Pack the corn tightly into freezer containers or bags, leaving
about a half-inch at the top.  Seal the packages and freeze them at
zero degrees Fahrenheit.
   You can also freeze southern cream-style corn.  For creamier corn,
cut and scrape it off the cob before you blanch it.  Cut the corn at
about the center of the kernels, then scrape the cob with the back of
a knife to remove the juice and the heart of the kernel.
   Choose one of the following methods of heating and blanching
cream-style corn...but, be sure to add enough water to keep the corn
from sticking while it's being heated.  You may want to try one-to-
two cups of water per quart of corn.
   Now, the blanching methods...one way is to heat the corn and the
water mixture to boiling and cook it for four minutes...stirring
constantly to keep it from sticking or scorching.
   Another, easier way to blanch the corn is to heat it in the top of
a double boiler for about ten-to-fifteen minutes or until it is heated
thoroughly...or another easy method is to heat the corn in an oven at
350 degrees until the mixture is very hot...then continue to heat it for
four more minutes.  Blanching in the oven requires less stirring.
 
Cool the corn quickly by putting the pan or boiler on ice or in a    forf       
pan of ice water.  You can hurry the cooling process by putting the
corn into a cold, shallow pan, then putting the pan on ice.  Stir the
corn often until it's cool.
   Package the corn in airtight, moisture-vapor-proof containers,
leaving about a half-inch at the top.  Freeze the corn immediately at
zero degrees Fahrenheit.
   If you want more information about freezing corn or if you would
like to have a free pamphlet called "Three Ways to Freeze Corn," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Eggs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2908
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2908, "Freezing Eggs."
   If you've never considered freezing eggs, you may be surprised at
how many uses you can find for them...such as scrambling them,
baking with them and making desserts with them.  You can freeze
eggs and keep them in your freezer safely for about six months...but,
they must be removed from the shells.
   Eggs can be frozen whole, or with the whites and yolks separated.
The most convenient way to freeze eggs is to package them according
to the way you plan to use them...such as measured for use in an
angel food cake...or whole eggs measured for family breakfasts.
   Here are some general guides for freezing eggs...ice cube trays or
custard cups make good containers for freezing eggs...use a quick,
clean technique...select fresh eggs of good quality and wash them
before you crack them...cool the eggs to thirty-two degrees
Fahrenheit...and don't freeze cracked  eggs.
   Now, some specific recommendations about freezing eggs.
First...whole eggs.  Remember to break each egg into a saucer before
you add it to a bowl with other open eggs and don't add it to the
others until you're sure it's good.  Also, break the yolks and
thoroughly mix them with the whites.  Use a fork or an electric
beater at low speed to do this mixing, but be careful not to whip air
into the eggs.
   You can prevent yolks from thickening by adding salt or sugar.
Add one teaspoon of salt per pint of eggs that you plan to use for
scrambling or making salad dressing.  Add a teaspoon of sugar per
pint of eggs for baking and desserts.  Then strain this mixture
through a wire sieve.
 
Now...freezing egg yolks.  First, separate the yolks from the whites.   f       
Then, break the yolks and mix them.  Use a fork or a portable rotary
beater at low speed...and, again, be careful not to whip air into the
mixture.  Just as before, you can add salt or sugar to prevent
thickening.  Use either one tablespoon of sugar or corn syrup or a
half teaspoon of salt for each cup of eggs you're freezing, depending
on the intended use.  Put the yolks through a food mill or a medium
mesh strainer.
   Now...freezing egg whites.  Take special care in separating the
whites from the yolks.  Remove every trace of yolk with the tip of a
clean spoon...because the whites will not whip well if there is yolk in
them.  Don't add anything to the whites.  Put the them through a
food mill or a medium size mesh strainer.
   As mentioned earlier, containers which are good for freezing eggs
include ice cube trays, custard cups and other small, plastic
containers.  Wrap these into tight packages that will be free of vapor
and moisture.
   Label these packages carefully, noting whether the eggs contain
salt or sugar.  After the eggs are frozen, they may be removed from
the cups or ice cube trays and stored in one large package.
   Thaw frozen eggs in the refrigerator to help keep them from
spoiling.  Use the eggs promptly after they have thawed and do not
refreeze them.
   For more information and suggestions about freezing food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Fish and Shellfish. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2909
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2909, "Freezing Fish and Shellfish."
        When you freeze fresh fish and shellfish, there are several
guidelines you should follow to help preserve the quality and fresh
flavor.
   First, let's look at tips on freezing fish ...then shellfish.
   When you freeze fresh fish, remove the scales, entrails and the
head if you would like.  Dip the fish in a mild lemon juice solution to
prevent it from turning dark.  Then, freeze the fish in water or glaze
it to prevent freezer burns.
   To freeze whole fish in cartons, fill the cartons with water and
freeze them -- leaving one-half inch of headspace at the top of the
cartons.  Close the containers, seal them with freezer tape and store
them.  If the fish are frozen in pans, remove the frozen blocks of fish
from the pans, wrap them in moisture-vapor-proof paper or place them
in a large freezer bag.  Seal the bags airtight and store them in the
freezer.
   To glaze fish for storage in the freezer, dip each piece of fish into
freezing water.  Put the fish back in the freezer until a thin film of
ice forms over it.  Repeat this dipping process several times until the
fish is coated completely with a jacket of ice about one-eighth of an
inch thick.  Then package the fish in moisture-vapor-proof packaging
material.
   When freezing fillets or other skinless cuts, wrap the individual
portions or fillets in plastic wrap.  Do not freeze fish fillets in milk
cartons or other containers requiring the addition of water.  Water
will drain out the flavor and make the fish mushy.
   Most fish may be stored for six months in the freezer, except for
fatty fish such as mackerel, salmon and catfish, which should be
stored only three months.
   When you freeze fresh shellfish, such as shrimp -- wash them in
cool, clean water.  Remove the heads, then wash the tails.  Then
package the tails in  airtight moisture-vapor-proof containers.
        Shrimp may be frozen in ice by covering them with water in
milk cartons or ice cream cartons.  Freeze the water and the shrimp,
leaving one-half inch of head space.  Close the cartons, seal with
freezer tape and store.  If you're freezing cooked shrimp, remove the
shells and veins before freezing them.  Then store the cooked, shelled
shrimp in airtight containers.
   If you're freezing crawfish, keep them alive until you're ready to
prepare them.  Wash the crawfish thoroughly.  Then put them in a big
pot of boiling water, using about one gallon of water for every two
pounds of crawfish.  When the water comes back to a boil, remove the
crawfish.  This should take about eight minutes.  Do not add any
seasonings to the water.  Peel the crawfish when they're cool enough
to handle.  Crawfish peel best when they're still warm. Rinse the
peeled crawfish tails in cool water to remove traces of fat.  Fat will
become rancid within two months if it's left on the tails.
       To prevent the tails from turning dark during long-term
storage, dip them in a solution of one-fourth cup of lemon juice and
two and one-half cups of water. Put the tails in moisture-vapor-proof
containers -- cover with water, close the  containers and freeze
quickly.
   Keep unshucked oysters alive in a cool, moist area until you're
ready to prepare them for freezing.  Remove the oysters from the
shells and place them in a colander to drain.  Put the oysters in
containers -- cover them with the drained liquor or water, seal
airtight and freeze immediately.         Crabs should also be kept
alive until you're ready to freeze them.  Wash the crabs thoroughly in
running water.  Then boil them for about fifteen minutes in
unseasoned water.  Cool them quickly in the refrigerator before you
pick them.  Crabs pick best when they are cold.  After you have
picked the crabs package them in moisture-vapor-proof containers.  Do
not add any water to the crab meat.  Freeze the meat immediately.
   It should be noted that crab meat freezes poorly regardless of the
technique used.  It quickly becomes stringy and often acquires a stale
taste.
        Freezer storage time for most shellfish is three months.
Shrimp stores well for twelve months.
   If you want more information on freezing fish and shellfish, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Freezing Green Beans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2910
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2910, "Freezing Green Beans."
   If you have a choice, pick your beans early in the morning, then
freeze them as quickly as possible.  Two hours from the garden to the
freezer is ideal.  Vegetables begin to deteriorate as soon as they are
harvested.  If you must store the beans for a while before you freeze
them, keep them in a cool place...preferably the refrigerator.
   Some varieties freeze better than others.  For example, the
Contender variety is early, prolific, and excellent for cooking.
However, after it has been frozen or canned, the texture is not as
firm as some of the other varieties... but it is acceptable.
   The beans you freeze should be young and tender with crisp firm
pods that snap easily.  You should discard bean pods that are wilted,
flabby, blemished or decayed.
   Sort the beans according to size and maturity.  Beans that are
about the same size look better and blanch and cook in the same
length of time.
   Here's how you get the beans ready for the freezer...first, wash the
beans several times in cold water.  While you're washing the beans,
remove those which are bruised or decayed.  After washing, remove
the ends and snap or cut the pods into one or two inch pieces.
 
Blanching is the next step...blanching is the heating of the beans   hekf       
before they're frozen.  To blanch, put about one pound of
beans...which measures out to three or four cups...in a blanching
basket, colander, wire basket or cheesecloth sack.  Drop the beans
into a gallon of boiling water and cover the container.  When the
water returns to a boil, begin counting time and blanch for three
minutes.
   At the end of the blanching time, cool the beans in ice water or
cold running water to stop the cooking process.  It takes about as
long to cool the beans as it does to blanch them.  When the beans are
cool, drain off the water.
   Package the beans in moisture-vapor-proof freezer bags or
containers.  Pack the beans tightly...and leave about one-half inch at
the top of the package.
   If you use plastic bags, press the bags from the bottom to get out
as much of the air as possible.  Also, you may want to use a
cardboard cover box to protect the bags from getting punctured and to
make them stack easier in the  freezer.
   Be sure you label the packages so that you know what is in them
and when it was frozen.
   Freeze the bean immediately at zero degrees or colder.  Do not put
more food in the freezer than will freeze in 24 hours...most home
freezers can freeze two or three pounds of food per cubic foot of
freezer space.
   If you want more information about freezing food or if you would
like to have a free pamphlet called "Freezing Green Beans," call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Meat and Poultry. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2913
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2913, "Freezing Meat and Poultry."
   When you decide to freeze meat and poultry, you decide to spend
some money...so, you will want to do a good job of preparing your
meat for the freezer to be sure you get your money's worth when the
meat comes out of the freezer.
   The quality of frozen meat depends on the quality of the meat you
choose, the way it is prepared for the freezer, and the quality of the
wrapping materials you use.
   Freeze meat while it is fresh and in top condition.  The quality of
the meat will not improve in the freezer.
   Be sure you buy the right kind of wrapping material.  Choose a
moisture-vapor-proof wrap so that you can seal out air and seal in
moisture.  The meat you buy at the grocery store usually is not
wrapped in moisture-vapor-proof freezer materials.  Remove the
cellophane and the paper or styrofoam plate and rewrap the meet for
freezing.
   There are several good wraps on the market.  Pliable wraps such as
freezer foil and transparent moisture-vapor-proof wraps and certain
types of plastic bags are good for wrapping bulky, irregularly shaped
meats.
   Freezer papers, waxed coated cartons and laminated freezer paper
are good for some cuts of meat.  Casserole dishes containing meat
sometimes are frozen in the dish in which they will be reheated or
baked.
   As you prepare the meat for freezing, trim off excess fat and
remove bones whenever it's practical.  There's nothing wrong with
freezing the bone except that it takes up more space in the freezer.
 
You should not add salt to the meat because it shortens the   eezer.dfekf       
storage life of the meat.  On the other hand, spices and freshly
ground pepper prolong the freezer life of ground pork.
   When you're freezing poultry, remove the giblet. Separate the liver
and freeze it separately...and never stuff poultry before you freeze it.
   You'll probably want to wrap your food in "family sized" packages,
but remember not to over-do it.  Smaller packages freeze more quickly
and defrost faster than larger ones.  When you wrap several chops,
patties or individual pieces of meat together, put double thicknesses of
wax paper between them so they'll be easier to separate while they're
thawing.
   When it comes to maintaining the quality of frozen food, how you
wrap is as important as what you wrap with.  If the meat is wrapped
carelessly, air comes in and moisture goes out.
   So, wrap the meat tightly pressing out as much air as you can.
One of the most popular methods of wrapping is called the drug store
wrap.  Here's how it's done.
   Place the food in the center of a sheet of foil or laminated paper.
Bring the edges of the sheet together over the meat.  Fold the paper
over to make a lock fold.  Then, continue the fold, drawing the
wrapping tightly around the food and then, press the fold flat against
the food.  Fold in both ends of the wrapping, excluding as much air
as possible.  Air left in the packages causes meat to dry out.  Also,
the oxygen in the air will cause the fat to oxidize which results in an
off-flavor in the meat.  Fold the ends of the paper under the package
to make a tight wrap.  Fold the pointed ends over and seal with
freezer tape.
   If you use plastic bags, squeeze out as much air as you can, then
twist the top tightly and close it with a rubber band or the fasteners
which came with the bags.
   Label the package properly.  Be sure to include the kind of meat,
poultry or fish, the cut, the weight, or number of servings and the
date.
    Freeze the meat at once at zero degrees Fahrenheit or colder.
Leave some air space between the packages when you first put the
meat in the freezer.  Your home freezer is not designed to freeze
several hundred pounds of meat at one time.  If you're freezing more
than five percent of the freezer capacity at one time, it is best to
have the meat frozen rapidly at a locker plant before storage.
   Putting in more than the recommended amount at one time raises
the
temperature to above zero degrees Fahrenheit.  As a result, slow freezing takes
place and large ice crystals form in the meat, causing the tissue to break down.
Then, when you thaw it, the juices seep out.
   You should check your freezer storage chart for suggested maximum
storage times.  Frozen meat will be best if it's used before the maximum time
indicated.  You will notice that pork deteriorates faster than any other
farm-produced meat because the fat tends to become rancid.
   If you need more information about freezing meat, call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Okra. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2915
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2915 "Freezing Okra."
   You can freeze okra in two forms...whole pods or cut.  First, let's
look at freezing whole pods of okra.  Wash the pods thoroughly and
cut off the stems in such a way that you don't open seed cells.  Then,
blanch the okra in boiling water to stop the action of the enzymes.
Put about a pound of washed okra in a wire basket, metal colander or
cheesecloth bag and gently drop the okra in a gallon of boiling water.
Cover the container and when the water returns to a boil, begin
counting the time...small pods should be blanched for about three
minutes...large pods about four minutes.
   Remove the pods from the boiling water and drain them.  Next,
cool the okra quickly in ice water or cold running water.  Drain off
the cold water and either leave the pods whole or slice them.  Put the
okra in airtight, moisture-vapor-poof freezing bags or containers.  Seal
the bags and freeze the packages at zero degrees or colder.
   Now, let's look at freezing cut okra.  Wash the okra and cut it
crosswise.  After the okra has been cut, it cannot be blanched in
boiling water.  So, to destroy enzyme action, heat the okra in a
skillet or in a shallow pan in the oven.  Cover the pan well with
fresh cooking oil before you put in the okra.
   Heat the pan and stir in the okra, coating it with hot oil.  Heat
the pan and the mixture in an oven at 300 degrees for about 20
minutes...or a 350 degree oven for about 12 minutes...or in a fry pan
over medium heat for six to eight minutes, stirring constantly.
 
To cool the okra quickly, transfer it from the hot pan to another   nealervice..
container and set it on ice or in a shallow pan of ice water.  If you
coat the okra with cornmeal or flour before you heat it, don't add
salt.  Package the okra and freeze it the same way as described
earlier.
   If you would like to have more information about freezing food or
if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Freezing Okra," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Pecans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2916
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2916, "Freezing Pecans."
   Pecans are a seasonal crop, so you'll want to store some in your
freezer for year-round use.  Because pecans are rich in oil, they'll
become stale or rancid quickly if they aren't stored properly.  The
main causes of rancidity are air, moisture, warm temperatures and
light.  Pecans stored properly will not be exposed to air, moisture,
warm temperatures or light.
   Pecans can be kept fresh for several years if they are stored in
the freezer.  They can be stored shelled or unshelled.  Unshelled
pecans take up valuable freezer space and they aren't ready for
immediate use, so you'll probably want to shell them before you freeze
them.
   Package shelled pecans in moisture-vapor-proof containers such as
plastic cartons, glass freezer jars, reuseable cans or plastic freezer
bags. Pack them tightly and exclude as much air as possible.
Unbroken kernels will stay fresh longer than broken ones.
   For more information on pecans or for a free pamphlet called
"Louisiana Pecans," call the home economist in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Peppers. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2917
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2917, "Freezing Peppers."
   Green peppers, sometimes called bell peppers, can be frozen easily
and used later in meatloaves, soup, casseroles and other dishes.
   When you're choosing green peppers to freeze, be sure to select
crisp, thick fleshed peppers with a glossy shine.  First, wash the
peppers and split them to remove the seeds and stem.  At this point
you can chop them or leave them in halves.  It is not necessary to
blanch green peppers.  Put the peppers in a double thickness of a
vapor-proof material.
   If you have chopped your peppers and you want them to come out
of the packages easily, try freezing them in a tray.  Spread the
chopped peppers out on a cookie sheet.  Lay a piece of wax paper
loosely over the peppers and put the cookie sheet in the freezer.
After the chopped peppers are frozen, take the tray from the freezer,
put the peppers into moisutre-vapor-proof freezer containers, seal the
packages and put the peppers back in the freezer.
   You may be interested in freezing green pepper halves that you can
use as cooked stuffed peppers.  You may want to blanch peppers for
stuffing before you freeze them.  Blanch them for two minutes in
boiling water.  Chill these pepper halves and package them in freezer
containers.
   If you want to stuff your green pepper halves before you freeze
them, you can do that, too.  Just use your favorite recipe, put the
stuffed peppers in freezer containers, seal and freeze.
   For more information and suggestions about freezing food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Prepared Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2919
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2919, "Freezing Prepared Foods."
   Changing lifestyles have made meal preparation more demanding
than ever.  Because of our faster pace, the home freezer is a great
convenience and, in some instances, a necessity in meal preparation.
   If you want to get the most from a home freezer, you need to plan
carefully.  Besides using it for storing meats, fruits and vegetables,
you'll want to prepare dishes and party foods and freeze them for
busy days, emergencies, company and parties.
   When you prepare regular meals for your family, cook with the
freezer in mind.  Make double batches so you can serve one and
freeze the other.  This practice will save preparation time, fuel and
dishwashing.
   When you're choosing foods for freezing, choose those that are
plentiful or seasonal.  Prepare these seasonal or plentiful foods in
ways that your family likes them.  Foods that require a variety of
ingredients or special seasonings and those that take a long time to
prepare are good choices for the freezer, as are those that require
little attention from freezer to table.  Of course, you'll want to freeze
only foods that will maintain high quality for a reasonable length of
time.  Remember, too, that freezing doesn't improve quality or flavor,
so freeze only high quality foods.
   Most frozen cooked foods have a relatively short storage period
because of color, texture and flavor changes or because combined
foods may not freeze as well as individual ingredients do.
 
It's a good idea to season the food lightly before freezing and to   ,ezervice..
add more seasonings when you reheat the food.  This is because salt
loses strength in frozen storage, and seasonings like pepper, garlic and
cloves may become strong and bitter.  Onion and chili powder often
lose strength when they are frozen, too.  Curry powder may develop a
musty flavor and imitation vanilla may become strong and bitter.
   Do not overcook foods you plan to freeze.  Slight undercooking is
better when the foods are to be reheated.  Cool foods quickly by
placing pans of hot foods in a container of cold water, changing the
water often.  Cooling may be speeded up by pouring hot food into
cool, shallow containers and cooling on ice or in the refrigerator.
Solid foods should be turned occasionally, and liquids or semi-solids
should be stirred frequently while they're cooling.
   Quick cooling stops the cooking process.  It also helps the food to
retain its natural flavor, color and texture.  Quick cooling also retards
the growth of bacteria that might cause spoilage or food poisoning.
   When you are preparing food for the freezer, package it in meal-
sized portions.  Use airtight moisture-vapor-resistant containers or
wrappings.  Leave enough headspace.  Label each package with the
name of the food and the date you freeze it.  Freeze it as quickly as
possible to retain flavor, color and texture.
   Other important points include keeping frozen foods at zero
degrees or below.  Use food within recommended storage period for
highest quality.  Keep bacterial contamination at a minimum by using
clean equipment and speed in preparation, freezing and reheating. 
Remember that freezing doesn't kill all bacteria; it only slows their           
growth.  Food poisoning bacteria grow easily in high protein foods
such as meat, fish and poultry dishes, stuffings and dressings.  Other
foods in which bacteria grow readily are milk and egg dishes such as
custards and cream pies.  Keep these foods either very hot or very
cold.
   For more information about freezing prepared foods or for a free
pamphlet called "Freezing Cooked and Prepared Foods," call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Freezing Strawberries. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2920
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2920, "Freezing Strawberries."
   Louisiana grown strawberries ripen from early March to about the
middle of April.  However, you can extend the season and enjoy
strawberries all year by freezing them when they're in season.  It's
quick and easy.  Here's how you do it.
   First, select firm, ripe fruit.  Wash the berries a few at a time in
cold water...being careful as you lift the fruit from the water.  Repeat
this process two or three times until the water stays clean after the
berries are removed.  Next, remove the caps...then, use them whole or
sliced.
   Sprinkle sugar over the berries...about one cup of sugar on four or
five cups...depending on how tart the berries are and how sweet you
like them.  Gently turn the berries with a large spoon until all of
them are coated with sugar and juice.  One teaspoon of commercial
ascorbic acid mixture stirred into each cup of sugar before you put it
on the berries will help protect the bright red color and the vitamin
C.
   Pack the strawberries in moisture-vapor-proof containers.  Fill the
containers to within about a half-inch of the top of the package.  You
can put a small piece of crumpled freezer paper or waxed paper on
top to hold the berries under the juice.  Seal the package airtight and
label it.  Freeze the berries as quickly as possible and store them at
zero degrees Fahrenheit.
   You can freeze berries without sugar...however, texture, color and
flavor will not be as good as if you had used sugar.  To freeze whole
berries without sugar, put them in a single layer on a tray or a
baking pan, cover them lightly with waxed paper or freezer paper, and
freeze them quickly.  Then, take the berries from the pan and put
them in an airtight, moisture-vapor-proof container.
 
If you want more information about freezing strawberries or if you   tdt        
would like to have a free pamphlet called "It's Strawberry Time," call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Summer Squash. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2921
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2921, "Freezing Summer Squash."
   You can enjoy the delicate, distinctive flavor of summer squash all
year if you freeze some while it is plentiful.  For freezing squash,
choose tender young squash with small seeds.  Wash it thoroughly in
cold water and trim off both ends.  Cut the squash into slices about
one-quarter or one-half inch thick.  Blanch the squash in boiling
water to stop the action of enzymes.
   To blanch, put about one pound of prepared squash in a wire
basket, metal colander or cheesecloth bag.  Immerse the squash in a
large pan of rapidly boiling water.  When the water returns to boiling,
begin counting time and boil for three minutes.  Remove the squash
from the boiling water, drain it and chill it quickly in ice water or
cold running water for three to five minutes, or until the squash is
completely cool.  Drain and package the squash in airtight, moisture-
vapor-proof freezing bags or containers.  Freeze at zero degrees or
below.  Don't try to freeze more squash than can freeze completely in
24 hours--
 about three pounds per cubic foot of freezer space.
   If you would like more information on freezing squash, or if you
would like to have a free pamphlet called "Freezing Summer Squash,"
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Sweet Potatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2922
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2922, "Freezing Sweet Potatoes."
   Here in Louisiana sweet potatoes are sometimes called yams and
they can be frozen in several different forms...such as baked, boiled or
mashed, and candied.
   If you want to freeze baked yams, you should choose small to
medium sized, well-cured potatoes.  Scrub them and grease the surface
of each.  Bake the yams at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 minutes,
then reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees until the potatoes
are about 75 percent cooked.  Cool the potatoes, wrap them
individually in foil and store them together in a freezer bag or freezer
paper at zero degrees Fahrenheit.  When you take the yams from the
freezer to use them, leave them in the foil to thaw and finish
baking.
   When you choose to freeze yams either boiled or mashed, you
should leave the skins on and cook them until they're almost tender.
Cool the yams enough to peel them, then cut or mash them.  To keep
the potatoes from turning dark, dip them in a solution of ascorbic acid
dissolved in a little water.  You can also dip them in lemon juice or
orange juice.  Next, mix the juice or the ascorbic acid mixture with
the mashed potatoes.  Pack the potatoes tightly in containers leaving
one-half inch at the top.  Cover the surface snugly with a layer of
freezer paper.  Seal the packages and freeze them at zero degrees
Fahrenheit.
 
Here's how you freeze candied yams.  First, peel the yams and cut   gidr        
them into quarter-inch or half-inch slices.  Blanch the slices for three
minutes in boiling water. Then, drain and cool them quickly.  If you
have four medium sized yams, mix one cup of sugar, one tablespoon of
flour, one teaspoon of ascorbic acid mixture and a dash of salt.  Mix
these ingredients with the sliced potatoes.  Package them in freezer
bags or a baking pan.  Seal the packages and freeze them at zero
degrees Fahrenheit.
   To cook the potatoes, place the mixture in a baking dish.  Sprinkle
one teaspoon cinnamon and one tablespoon of lemon juice over the
mixture.  Dot the potatoes with four tablespoons of butter and pour
one-fourth of a cup of water over the mixture.  Bake at 375 to 400
degrees Fahrenheit for about an hour or until the potatoes are tender.
   If you need more information about freezing yams or if you would
like to have a free pamphlet called "Freezing Yams or Sweet
Potatoes," call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Tomatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2923
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2923, "Freezing Tomatoes."
   You can freeze tomatoes and tomato juice if you follow these
general instructions.
   To freeze tomato juice, you'll need to wash, sort and trim some
firm, vine-ripened tomatoes.  Cut them into quarters or eighths.
Simmer them for five to ten minutes, then press them through a sieve
and season them to taste.  Pour the tomato juice into containers,
being sure to leave some space at the top.  Seal the containers and
freeze.
   To freeze stewed tomatoes, you should wash some ripe tomatoes,
remove stem ends, and peel and cut them into quarters.  Cover the
tomatoes and cook them until they're tender -- from ten to twenty
minutes.  Place the pan containing the stewed tomatoes in cold water
to cool.  Pack stewed tomatoes into containers, leaving some space at
the top.  Seal the cartons and freeze.
   If you would like more information on freezing tomatoes and other
vegetables, or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called
"Freezing Vegetables," call the home economist in your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Freezing Seafood, Materials Needed. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 2924
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2924, "Freezing Seafood, Materials Needed."
   Most of the flavor and color changes found in your frozen seafood
are probably due to improper packaging materials that allow air to
penetrate. Containers and packaging materials must be airtight,
moisture-proof and vapor-proof to lock in flavor.
   Good containers are odorless, tasteless, clean, durable and flexible
enough not to crack at zero degree Fahrenheit.  Cling-type plastic
wrapping is one of the best kinds of materials to use.  It's an
excellent barrier to air and water vapor.  However, it may become
brittle at freezing temperatures. For extra precaution -- after freezing
small portions of fish in the cling-type wrapping, package them in
large moisture-vapor-proof bags.
   Polyethylene plastic freezer bags are good moisture barriers, but
may allow air inside.  The bags provide excellent protection for glazed
fish wrapped in cling-type plastic.
   Heavy-duty aluminum foil also guards against moisture and vapor.
But foil may develop holes which allow moisture and vapor penetration.
   Metal cans with airtight lids, glass freezer jars and rigid plastic
freezer containers provide excellent protection.
   Milk cartons and ice cream cartons may also be used for freezing
seafood.  Put the seafood in the cartons and cover it completely with
water.  The ice will protect the seafood from air after it is frozen.
After freezing, close the cartons, seal with freezer tape and store.
   For more on materials needed for freezing seafood, contact the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Making Syrups for Freezing Fruits. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2926
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2926, "Making Syrups for Freezing Fruits."
   The type of syrup you will make to freeze fruit will depend on
which fruit you are freezing and how sweet your family likes frozen
fruit.
   To retain the flavor of mild-flavored fruits, use a light syrup made
from two cups of sugar and four cups of water.  Most fruits will do
well when they are packed in a medium syrup.  A medium syrup is
made by mixing three cups of sugar with four cups of water.  If you
are freezing fruits that turn dark when they are exposed to air, you'll
need to add an anti-browning agent, such as pure ascorbic acid or a
commercial mixture, to the syrup.
   Follow label directions for using commercial mixtures.  The general
recommendations are one tablespoon of the mixture to a cup of sugar.
Use one-half teaspoon of crystalline or powdered ascorbic acid for
each quart of syrup.  For pears, however, you'll need to add a
teaspoon of crystalline or powered ascorbic acid for each quart of
syrup.  Mix the powder with a little cold water before adding it to
the syrup.
   For more information on freezing fruits or for a free pamphlet
called, "Freezing Fruits," call the home economist in your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Freezer Odor. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2927
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2927, "Removing Freezer Odor."
   Objectionable odors in the freezer may be caused by food that has
been left in the freezer too long, food that has been packaged
improperly, or by food that has spoiled when the electricity was off.
Several different solutions can be used to clean the interior surface of
the freezer.  Try them one at a time.  Rinse the freezer surfaces well
and dry them before trying another.  Don't mix ingredients in
different solutions.
   Baking soda and water may do the job.  Use two tablespoons of
baking soda to a quart of water.  If the odor remains, try a vinegar
and water solution.  The formula is one cup of vinegar to one gallon
of water.  Household ammonia and water is another choice.  Use one
cup of ammonia to a gallon of water.  Household chlorine bleach may
be effective.  Use one-half cup of bleach to one gallon of water.  No
matter which solution you choose, rinse well with clear water after
cleaning.
   If odor remains, leave crumpled newspaper in the freezer for a
time.  Charcoal briquettes or activated charcoal in an open container
may help remove remaining odor.  Other choices include coffee
grounds or kitty litter left in the freezer in an open container.
   If odor-causing moisture has been absorbed by the insulation of the
freezer, the odor may be impossible to remove.  Odor-retaining
moisture that has wet the insulation is usually the source of odor if
the interior surface has been cleaned and rinsed and an unpleasant
odor still remains.  In this case, all you can do is hope the insulation
dries out if you don't want to replace the expensive insulation.  
Heat and air circulation may help.  In the meantime, if you use the             
freezer for storage, double wrap all food placed inside.  As soon as
you take food from the freezer, remove the outer wrapping before the
food thaws.  The odor should be in the outer wrapping, so food will
not be affected.
   For more information and suggestions about using and taking care
of the appliances in your home, call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Odors from a Refrigerator. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2928
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2928, "Removing Odors from a Refrigerator."
   If you leave food in the refrigerator too long or store improperly
packaged food, it may leave an unpleasant odor in the refrigerator.
The same thing happens if food spoils while the electricity is off.  To
remove the odor, try one of the following solutions.  If the first
solution you try doesn't work, then try another.  Do not mix
ingredients in these solutions.  Here are four solutions for you to try
one at a time:  1)  Baking soda and water.  Mix two tablespoons of
soda with a quart of water.  2)  Vinegar and water.  Use one cup of
vinegar for a gallon of water.  3)  Household ammonia and water.
Use one cup of ammonia for a gallon of water.  4)  Household
chlorine bleach.  Use one-half cup of bleach for a gallon of water.
   Apply the solution you choose with a soft cloth, rinse and dry
surface area well before trying another solution.  If odor remains, try
leaving one of the following in an open container in the refrigerator:
coffee grounds, kitty litter, baking soda or a few charcoal briquettes.
Cotton balls saturated with vanilla extract and placed inside may help
cover remaining odor.
   If the odor is in the insulation, no amount of scrubbing or
absorption material will help.  In this case, all you can do besides
replacing the expensive insulation is to hope the insulation will
eventually dry out.
   Sometimes heat and air circulation will help remove odors.  In the
meantime, double-wrap food that you place in the freezer.  As soon as
you remove the food from the freezer to thaw it for use, remove the
outer wrapping.  Generally the odor will be in the outer wrapping and
the food won't be affected.  Keep all other foods covered while they
are in the refrigerator. 
To prevent odors from being absorbed by refrigerator surfaces,                  
clean the surfaces regularly with mild detergent and water or a
solution of baking soda and water.  Use a soft cloth, and avoid
abrasive cleaners.
   Defrost manual freezer units regularly, at least when frost is one-
quarter inch thick.  Remove and discard ice from trays or ice maker
periodically because ice retains odors.  If you spill food in the
refrigerator, wipe and clean it immediately.  Food spills create odors
and stains.
   The defrost pan on automatic defrost models needs to be cleaned
periodically, too.  It's usually located under the grill at the bottom of
the refrigerator.  Remove the grill and you'll see the pan on one side
and the condenser coils on the other.  Pull the pan out and clean it.
Remove dust from the condenser with a brush or the dusting
attachment of your vacuum cleaner.  Wipe up any spills on the floor
around the bottom of the refrigerator and under the grill.  Periodic
cleaning will help to remove odors in and around the refrigerator.
   For more information and suggestions about household cleaning, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Preventing Darkening of Fruits When Freezing. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2929
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2929, "Preventing Darkening of Fruits When Freezing."
   Light-colored fruits like apples, peaches, pears and bananas turn
dark quickly once they're cut because of the reaction of oxygen in the
air and the natural enzymes in the fruit.  They darken even more
during storage unless they are treated with an anti-oxidant.  You can
use sugar and lemon juice to help prevent darkening, but you'll get
better results by using ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and sugar or a
commercial color control mixture of ascorbic acid, citric acid and
sugar.  These mixtures are available in grocery stores and drug stores
under various trade names.
   When you're using commercial mixtures, follow label directions.
Usually the recommendations are one tablespoon of the mixture to a
cup of sugar.  Use one-half teaspoon of crystalline or powdered
ascorbic acid (vitamin C) for each quart of syrup, except for pears.
For pears, use one teaspoon for each quart.  Dissolve the ascorbic
acid in a little cold water before adding to syrup.  Crystalline or
powered ascorbic acid is more satisfactory than tablets.  If you use
tablets, crush them before you use them and mix them with a little
water.  One-half teaspoon of crystalline ascorbic acid is equal to 1500
milligrams of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in tablet form.
   For more information on how to freeze fruits and keep them from
turning dark, or for a free pamphlet called "Freezing Fruits," call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Preventing Freezer Burn. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2930
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2930, "Preventing Freezer Burn."
   Poorly packaged frozen food dries out, loses its original freshness
and its natural colors, flavors and nutritive values.  The process,
called freezer burn, is irreversible and affected portions of the
"burned" food should be discarded.  Also, the loss of moisture from
poorly packaged frozen food adds to frost from other moisture
sources and increases the defrosting task for the freezer or for you.
   Frozen foods must be packaged in containers that close tightly.  If
oxygen can reach the food, it will speed poor meat flavors, darken
light-colored fruits, and may cause boilable pouches to burst.  Oxygen
won't damage vegetables as much as it does other foods, because
vegetables are protected somewhat by a natural, built-in anti-oxidant.
   Protect all your foods by choosing packaging material that is
moisture-vapor-resistant.  Rigid containers made of aluminum, glass or
plastic work well because water and vapor can't pass through them.
Don't use butcher paper or waxed paper for freezing.  They aren't
vapor resistant.  All wraps should be strong enough to be handled and
frozen without tearing.
   Popular polyethylene bags are excellent to freeze food in if they
are from one-and-a-half to three mils thick.  Thinner bags won't
protect the food, and thicker ones are hard to twist adequately at the
top for sealing.  Good bags cost more money than thin ones, but they
will protect food and they can be reused.  Other good packaging
materials include heavy aluminum foil and laminated and coated sheets.
Use just enough to cover the food and make a good closure. 
Handle frozen foods with respect.  Adding the proper packaging to               
good food and using the right freezer temperature will yield the best-
tasting food.
   If you would like to have more information on freezing foods, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Refreezing Thawed Foods. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2931
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2931, "Refreezing Thawed Foods."
   If you're uncertain about which frozen foods can be refrozen after
thawing, here are some guidelines to follow.  Remember, though, that
while many frozen foods may be refrozen without danger, they may be
lacking in some of their original quality.
   Meats -- Do not refreeze meats that have warmed to room
temperature and have thawed completely.  Red meats that have
thawed completely should be cooked immediately.  You can refreeze
them after cooking.  Partially thawed variety meats, sausages and
hamburgers should be cooked immediately.
   Fruits -- Use completely thawed fruits immediately.  Fruit may be
refrozen, but some of the quality will be lost.
   Prepared Foods -- These include meats in cream sauces, frozen
dinners, cream pies and leftovers.  If these prepared foods thaw
completely, cook them immediately or discard them.
   Frozen Juices -- Reconstitute thawed juice according to directions
and use it.
   Fish -- If fish thaws completely, cook it and eat it immediately or
throw it out.  It can spoil rapidly.
   Poultry -- If poultry has thawed but is still quite cold to the
touch, you can cook and refreeze it.  Throw away stuffed poultry that
has thawed.
   Vegetables -- Vegetables that still have ice crystals may be
refrozen, but use them as quickly as possible.  You can refreeze plain
vegetables (those without sauces) if they haven't been held at room
temperature too long.  Vegetables can be cooked and refrozen
separately or as ingredients in a casserole or other dish. 
Breads -- Thawed breads can be refrozen, but freshness may be                   
affected.
   Cakes -- Cakes may be refrozen, but they may become dry and the
icing may be affected.
   Pies -- All pies, except for cream pies, can be refrozen.  Some
weeping and breaking of the filling may occur, and the crust may lose
texture.
   For more information about food care and preparation, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Steps in Freezing Fruits. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2932
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2932, "Steps in Freezing Fruits."
   How you freeze fruit depends on the particular fruit that you're
freezing...all fruits are not frozen the same way.  For instance, some
fruits such as berries...are frozen whole after they are ripened and
washed.  Other fruits such as peaches and apples must be peeled and
sliced before they're frozen.
   Also, fruits may be frozen with or without sugar or syrup.  In
some cases, sugar or syrup helps the fruit hold its fresh flavor and
color.
   One way to make syrup for freezing fruits is to help the fruit
make its own.  For example, when you're freezing soft, sliced fruits
such as peaches, strawberries, figs, deseeded grapes and cherries...you
can cover them with sugar for a few minutes before you freeze them
and they will make enough syrup on their own for you to cover them
in the freezer packages.
   Another way to make syrup is to mix one part of sugar with an
equal part of water and stir the mixture until the sugar dissolves.
You don't need to heat it.
   When you're slicing light colored fruits such as peaches, apples and
pears, you'll find that they tend to turn brown if you don't do
something to stop it.  You can stop most of this discoloration by
quickly covering the sliced fruit with powdered, pure, ascorbic
acid...which is really vitamin C. Or, you can stop this discoloration by
covering the fruit with a fruit-freeze mixture containing ascorbic acid.
You can get acorbic acid at many drug stores and in the canning-
freezing sections of many grocery stores.
 
Here's how you use the acorbic acid.  If you're using what's called   d.        
a sugar pack to freeze your fruit, add one-half teaspoon of powdered
, pure ascorbic acid to each pound of sugar and mix it thoroughly
with four to six pounds of fruit.  If you use a commercial mix
containing ascorbic acid, follow the directions on the label of that
mix.
   If you're using  what's called the syrup pack to freeze your fruit,
add one-half teaspoon pure, ascorbic acid to one quart of water and
one quart of sugar.  Then, mix this ascorbic acid, water and sugar
mixture to four to six quarts of fruit.
   Another syrup pack method is to add three tablespoons of lemon
juice to one quart of water and one quart of sugar and then mix all
this with four quarts of fruit.
   When you freeze fruit in a sugar or syrup pack, you should be sure
you use leak-proof containers such as glass jars, plastic cartons, or
bags and boxes.  Squeeze out the air, seal the package, label it and
freeze it quickly.
   Boysenberries, blueberries, cranberries, raspberries, blackberries and
dewberries may be frozen without sugar or syrup...this is called a dry
pack.
   Generally, frozen fruits will hold their quality for about a year.
   For more information and suggestions about freezing fruits or for a
free pamphlet called "Freezing Fruits," call the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
What to Do When the Freezer Stops. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2934
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2934, "What to Do When the Freezer Stops."
   Don't panic if your electricity has gone off or if your freezer goes
on the blink.  A fully-loaded freezer that has been operating at zero
degrees Fahrenheit will usually stay cold enough to keep foods frozen
for a couple of days, even when the weather is hot.  If the freezer is
only half full, however, food may not stay frozen for more than a day.
Keep the freezer door closed as much as possible.
   If the problem means more than a day or two without power, you'll
need to try to protect your food.  Putting dry ice in the freezer can
keep your food frozen.  Look in the yellow pages of your telephone
directory for suppliers of dry ice.  For a 20-cubic foot freezer that is
full of food, you'll need 25 pounds of dry ice.  This should keep your
food frozen for about two days.  If the freezer is only about half full,
the dry ice will protect your food for a day or two.
   Here's how to use dry ice.  Put some thick cardboard or layers of
newspaper on top of the food and place the dry ice on the cardboard.
Be sure to wear gloves when you handle dry ice, and work quickly.
   If the power or your freezer will be off for more than two or
three days, you may need to transfer the food to another freezer.
Wrap food in newspapers and place it in coolers.  Work quickly,
especially in hot weather.
   If you need more information, call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Freezing Figs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 2936
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
2936, "Freezing Figs."
   When you decide to freeze figs, be sure to choose fully-ripe fruit.
You can freeze figs with sugar or without sugar and with or without
their peels.  Wash the figs thoroughly, remove their stems and peel
them if that's what you prefer.  You can either cut them in half or
leave them whole.  Freeze figs with or without sugar syrup.
   If you want to use a syrup, dissolve one cup of sugar in two cups
of water.  Make one cup of syrup for each quart of figs you plan to
freeze.
   To keep figs from turning dark, stir three-fourths teaspoon of
crystalline ascorbic acid into each quart of syrup or use a commercial
ascorbic acid mixture according to label directions.
   Fill the freezer containers about one-fourth full of syrup and pack
the fresh figs solidly in the container.  Cover the figs with syrup, but
leave one inch of headspace.  Crumple some waxed paper and put it on
top of the figs in the headspace.  This will help keep the figs under
the syrup.  Seal the package airtight and freeze it immediately at zero
degrees Fahrenheit.
   To freeze figs without syrup, sprinkle them with ascorbic acid
mixture dissolved in a little water.  Place the figs on a baking sheet
and freeze them quickly.  Remove the individually frozen figs and
place them in jars leaving an inch of headspace.  Place crumpled
waxed paper in the headspace or cover the surface snugly with plastic
film.  Seal the jar airtight and freeze at zero degrees Fahrenheit.
   If you want to freeze figs to make preserves later, first heat firm-
ripe whole figs to a boil and then let them set for three or four
minutes.  Then, drain, cool and freeze.          For more
information on using figs, or for a free publication called "Ways With
Figs," call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Drying Figs. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3103
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3103, "Drying Figs."
   Dried figs are rich in flavor and great for snacks and for baking
cookies, cakes, muffins or breads.
   If you plant to dry figs in the oven, select and wash fully ripe
figs.  Dissolve one cup of sugar in three cups of water and bring the
mixture to a boil.  Add the figs and simmer them for ten minutes.
Remove the figs by lifting them from mixture.  Drain and cool the figs
and place them in a single layer on a drying rack.  You can use a
broiler pan rack or cake rack for a drying rack.  Set your oven at its
lowest temperature.  A low, even temperature of 115 to 120 degrees
Fahrenheit should be maintained for 10 to 20 hours.  Leave the door
propped open slightly so moisture can escape.  If you use a gas oven,
be sure that it doesn't go out.
   Dry the figs until the outsides are firm to the touch and the
insides are soft with no signs of syrup when squeezed.
   To save energy, you may want to sun-dry your figs.  Figs will dry
well outside on hot, sunny days.  They should dry in about two days.
Bring them in each day at sundown.  They will also dry well in a car
parked in the sun.
   To dry figs in the sun, wash fully ripe figs, leaving stems on.  Cut
the figs completely in half to the stem and turn the cut side up on
the drying rack.  Cover the figs with a piece of cheesecloth or nylon
net to keep insects off.  Put the drying rack on a table, a car or a
roof in full sun.  Dry until outside is leathery, but pliable.  Inside
should be soft, with no sign of juice. 
For longest storage life, place the dried figs in the refrigerator or           
freezer in moisture-proof bags or containers.  Figs can be stored at
room temperature if they're completely free of juice.  To store, first
reheat the figs at 160 to 180 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 to 15 minutes,
then place them in moisture-proof containers.  If you use glass jars,
heat clear jars in oven until they are dry and hot.  Pack the hot figs
into the hot jars and seal.  When they are cool, examine the jars for
signs of moisture.  If you find moisture, reheat the figs and repack
them in hot, dry jars.  Moisture will cause mold to grow which will
spoil the figs.
   For more information and suggestions about drying other foods or
for a free pamphlet called "Ways with Figs," call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Drying Peaches.  
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3105
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3105, "Drying Peaches. "
   Dried peaches can be a real space saver when it comes to storing
peaches for later use.  Dried peaches are a great snack and they're
delicious in breads, pies and cakes.
   To dry peaches in the oven, select about three pounds of fully
ripened peaches.  Wash, peel, pit and slice them into wedges.  Mix one
cup of sugar in three cups of water and heat the mixture to boiling.
Add the fruit and simmer it for ten minutes.  Remove the peaches
from the heat and let them stand in syrup ten minutes or longer.
Drain them well and spread them in single layers on a drying rack
such as a broiler pan.  Then, put the peaches in the oven to dry.  A
low, even temperature of about 115 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit should
be maintained for ten to fifteen hours.  You may increase the
temperature to 150 degrees toward the end of drying time.
   Prop the oven door open two to four inches so excess heat and
moisture can escape.  A small fan directed inside the oven will
circulate the air and shorten the drying time.  If you have a gas oven,
be sure it doesn't go out.
   If you plan to store peaches in the refrigerator or freezer, dry the
fruit until it is firm but not leathery.  The inside should be soft with
no sign of syrup when squeezed.  They may be compressed in
moisture-vapor-proof bags and need very little space for storage. 
To store at room temperature, dry the peaches until they're                     
leathery but still pliable.  Cool the peaches and pack them in dry,
scalded containers that are airtight and insect-proof.  Close the
container tightly and store it in a cool, dark, dry place.  Check
containers from time to time to see if the moisture has collected on
the inside of containers.  If there is moisture, reheat the peaches,
cool and repack.  Moisture causes spoilage.
   For more information and suggestions about drying other foods or
for a free pamphlet called "Ways with Peaches," call the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Drying Pears. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3106
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3106, "Drying Pears."
   To dry pears in the oven, select about two pounds of fully ripened
pears.  Wash, peel, core and slice the pears.  If the pears are a hard
variety, you may need to pre-cook them in a little water until they
are soft.  Dissolve one cup of sugar in three cups of water and heat
the mixture to boiling.  Then, remove it from the heat and let the
fruit stand in the syrup for ten minutes.  Drain pears well and spread
them into single layers on a drying rack.  Put the pears in the oven
set at its lowest temperature.  Keep the oven at an even temperature
of about 115 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit for ten to fifteen hours.
Temperature may be increased to 150 degrees toward the end of drying
time.  Prop the oven door open an inch or two so excess heat and
moisture can escape.  If you use a gas oven, be sure it doesn't go out.
   If you plan to store pears in the refrigerator or freezer, dry pears
until they're firm but not leathery.  The inside should be soft but it
should show no sign of syrup when the pears are squeezed.
Compressed in moisture-vapor-proof bags, dried pears require little
storage space.
   If you store your pears at room temperature, dry them until they
are leathery but still pliable.  Pack pears in hot, dry jars and seal
them immediately.  Store in a dark, cool place.  Be sure to check the
containers often to see if moisture is collecting on the inside.
Moisture will cause pears to spoil, so if there is moisture, reheat the
pears and repack them in hot, dry jars. 
Dried pears are good snacks and are flavorful additions to cookies,             
muffins, breads, fruit cakes and mincemeat.
   If you would like more information and suggestions about drying
other foods or if you would like to have a free pamphlet called "Ways
with Pears,"  call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                                Service. your parish office of theays           
-End-
-Title-
Drying Food in the Microwave Oven. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  5/20/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3107
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3107,
"Drying Food in the Microwave Oven."
   Drying...or dehydration...is a method of preserving food by removing
the moisture from it.  Commercially, this is done mechanically in a
heated air dryer.  You can dry food in your home with a conventional
oven, a dehydrator or sunlight.  Most home dehydrators have
controlled heating systems that use light bulbs and a heater or solar
power.
   The weather in Louisiana makes it hard to dry foods in a
microwave oven.  The humidity is usually too high to dry most foods
successfully.  When you are drying foods, you must carefully control
the humidity.  If the humidity is too high, the food will re-absorb
moisture as quickly as it is removed.
   The ideal temperatures for drying food are between 115 and 165
degrees Fahrenheit.  It's hard to control microwave heat by
temperature so the keys to success are quantity, timing and power
level.
   A microwave oven isn't intended to replace a dehydrator...but small
amounts of certain low-moisture foods can be dried in a microwave
oven.  These include...herbs, citrus peel and mushrooms.
   You'll need cardboard cut to fit inside the oven or a paperboard
tray and paper towels.  Don't use recycled paper towels in a
microwave oven.  These may contain small bits of metal from the
recycling process and can create sparks or cause the paper to ignite.
 
Here's how you dry herbs:   eate sparks or cause the paper to ignite.l          
   Wash and dry fresh herbs.  Remove the stems and place the leaves
in a measuring cup to measure them.  Cut a piece of carboard to fit
inside the oven or use a paperboard tray.  Cover the paper with two
layers of paper towels.  Sprinkle herbs evenly in a circle onto the
towel.  Leave the center empty.  Set the microwave oven cook level
to "high" and heat the herbs until they're dry and brittle.  For one
cup of herbs, heat for about three to four minutes. For two cups, heat
for five-and-a-half to six minutes.  For three cups, heat seven-and-a-
half to eight minutes...and for five cups, heat ten to eleven minutes.
   Next, cool the herbs, crush them to the desired fineness and store
them in an air-tight container.  The final, crushed product will be
about one-fourth as much as the fresh product.  You should use about
one teaspoon of dried herbs for each tablespoon of fresh herbs.
   Here's how to dry citrus peel.  And, just as an example, I will use
lemon peel.  First, wash and dry six lemons.  Grate the yellow outer
layer to measure three-fourths of a cup.  Cut a piece of carboard to
fit inside of the oven or use a paperboard tray.  Cover the tray with
two layers of paper towels.  Sprinkle the grated peel in a circle
evenly onto the towels.  Leave the center empty.  The microwave
power should be set on two-thirds for twelve to thirteen minutes or
until the peel is dry.  Re-arrange the peel once.  Cool the peel and
store it in an air-tight container.  The yield of dried peel should be
about one-third as much as the fresh peel.
 
Here's how you dry mushrooms...Wash and dry fresh, firm   el should be          
mushrooms.  Remove the stems and slice the mushrooms
thinly....measure one cup.  Cut a piece of cardboard to fit inside the
oven or use a paperboard tray.  Cover the paper with two layers of
paper toweling.  Arrange mushrooms in a circle in a single layer.
Again, leave the center empty.  Set the microwave power on high for
three-and-a-half to four minutes.  Rotate the mushrooms.  Heat them
on one-third power for four-and-a-half to five minutes.  Cool the
mushrooms and store them in an air-tight container.
   For more information and suggestions about drying food, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Dry Soybeans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3153
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3153, "Cooking Dry Soybeans."
   Before you cook dry soybeans, sort them and remove any beans
that are discolored, cracked or shriveled.  Wash the beans thoroughly
and soak them at least four hours or overnight.  To soak, add four
cups of warm water and two teaspoons of baking soda to each cup of
dry beans.  One cup of dry beans will yield about two and one-half
cups of cooked beans.
   After the beans have soaked, bring them to a boil in the soaking
water and simmer for 20 minutes.  Then, drain the beans and rinse
them in fresh water.  Rub the beans between your fingers and most of
the husks will float to the top of the water and can be rinsed away.
Cover the beans completely with boiling water and add more water
while they're cooking if it's needed.  Add one to two teaspoons of oil
or margarine to reduce foaming.  Add one teaspoon of sugar, and salt
and pepper to taste.  Simmer the beans for one-and-a-half to two
hours or until they're tender.  Serve cooked dry soybeans like you
serve other dry beans or use them to make baked beans.
   Remember:  The protein in soybeans is almost comparable in quality
to animal protein.  To be a complete protein, it needs only to be
combined with a small amount of meat, milk or a cereal grain such as
rice.  Soybeans are also rich in calcium, iron, phosphorus and some of
the B vitamins.
   For more information and suggestions about cooking vegetables or
for a free pamphlet called "Soybeans, the Golden Nugget," call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Green Soybeans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3157
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3157, "Cooking Green Soybeans."
   Fresh, green soybeans are available in some areas in late summer
or fall.  Vegetable soybeans are the kind used for cooking.  They are
larger and milder than the field soybeans used for making oil and
commercial flour.
Vegetable soybeans look like butter beans or lima beans.  When you're
buying vegetable soybeans to cook, each pod will usually have two
beans and the pods should be bright green and plump.  Soybean pods
are fuzzy on the outside and you don't eat them.
   To shell fresh soybeans, first cover them with boiling water and let
them soak for three minutes.  Remove the beans and rinse them in
cold water.  Break the pods crosswise and squeeze out the beans.  One
pound of beans in the pod will yield about one and two-thirds cups of
ready-to-cook beans.
   To cook soybeans, add two cups of shelled soybeans to one cup of
boiling water.  Add one-half teaspoon of salt or salt substitute.  When
the water and the beans return to a boil, cover them and cook them
gently for ten or twenty minutes.  The beans will become tender as
you cook them, but they won't get mushy because they contain a lot
of protein and oil and almost no starch.  Soybeans are a good source
of vitamins A and C, too.  Season the beans with margarine and serve
them as a vegetable or use them instead of limas in some of your
favorite recipes.
   Children may like green soy nuts.  Prepare soy nuts by cooking
unshelled green soybeans in boiling, salted water for 30 minutes or
until they're tender.  Eat the soy nuts like boiled peanuts. 
If you would like more information and suggestions about cooking                
and serving vegetables or if you would like to have a free pamphlet
called "Soybeans, the Golden Nugget," call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Green Vegetables 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3158
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3158, "Cooking Green Vegetables".
   Don't overcook green vegetables!  The best way to ensure the best
flavor, color, texture and food value is to cook vegetables only until
they are tender.  The less water you use in cooking, and the shorter
the cooking time, the more nutrients will stay in the vegetables.  Dark
green vegetables are excellent sources of vitamins A and C.
   Green vegetables contain chlorophyll, the green pigment.  If you
overcook vegetables, or cook them in an acid liquid, they will lose the
attractive green color and become drab olive-green or brown.  Leave
the lid off for the first five minutes of cooking.  This will allow the
plant acids to escape in the steam and help to prevent some of the
discoloration.
   Here are some suggestions for cooking green vegetables:
   -- Cook green vegetables quickly in a small amount of boiling,
salted
   water.
   -- Cook until just tender.
   -- Don't add acid, such as lemon juice or vinegar, to vegetables.
   -- Never add a pinch of baking soda to vegetables.  It will
preserve the
   green color, because it makes the water alkaline, but it destroys
   vitamins and makes vegetables mushy.
   You might want to stir-fry green vegetables like broccoli.  Cook
and stir chopped vegetables in a small amount of hot oil in a frying
pan or a wok.  Remove vegetables from oil as soon as they are crisp-
tender.  If you serve green vegetables often, you can cut calories and
overall food costs and, at the same time, improve the nutritional
quality of your meals. 
For more information about cooking and serving vegetables, call the             
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Red or Purple Vegetables. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3160
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3160, "Cooking Red or Purple Vegetables."
   The red, blue and purple pigments found in vegetables such as red
cabbage, radishes and beets dissolve easily when they are cooked.  Tap
water that contains a lot of minerals may cause an even greater color
change in these vegetables.  If you want to intensify the color, add a
weak acid such as lemon juice or vinegar to these vegetables when
you cook them.
   Try these suggestions to retain the color and flavor of red and
purple vegetables:  Cook red vegetables in a moderate amount of
lightly salted water. Cook them with the lid on.  Add lemon juice,
orange juice or diluted vinegar to make the color brighter red.  When
you are cooking beets, leave the skins on, roots on and part of the
stem intact.  If you don't, much of the color will dissolve in the
cooking water.  Peel beets after cooking.  To keep cabbage from
turning blue when it's cook, add an apple, a little lemon juice or a
little vinegar during cooking.
   For more information and suggestions about food preparation, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Sulfur-containing Vegetables. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:
Area:

                           TeleTip 3161
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3161, "Cooking Sulfur-containing Vegetables."
   Some vegetables contain sulfur compounds which break down during
cooking.  This affects both color and flavor.  Among these sulfur-
containing vegetables are cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli and turnips.
When you overcook these vegetables, the sulfur compounds break
down, producing strong flavors, disagreeable odors, unattractive colors
and often the "indigestion" people complain about.
   To prepare these vegetables successfully, remember to cook them in
a moderate amount of boiling water and cook until just tender, no
longer.  When you cook vegetables of the cabbage family, leave the lid
off so some of the sulfur compounds can escape in the steam produced
by boiling.
   You can get more information about cooking and proper nutrition
from the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Sweet Potatoes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3162
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3162, "Cooking Sweet Potatoes."
   The easiest ways to cook sweet potatoes or yams are also the best
ways to cook them.  Yams are more flavorful and more nutritious
when they are cooked in their jackets either by boiling or baking.
Baking makes the most of the natural sugars found just under the
skin, carmelizing these sugars for a delicious, syrupy taste.  Baking or
boiling yams in their jackets also preserves the vitamin C which is
located just under the skin.  After potatoes are baked or boiled, the
skins will slip off easily.  Eat the baked or boiled yams just as they
are or use them in sweet potato dishes.
   Louisiana's successful golden yams are the product of years of
extensive research conducted by scientists in the Louisiana State
University Agricultural Center.  They've developed improved varieties
that have a soft, moist flesh and smooth, stringless texture.  These
improved varieties are sweet and flavorful, have much more Vitamin A,
grow well in Louisiana's rich soil and favorable climate, and are more
resistant to soil rot and disease.
   Whether you're baking or boiling sweet potatoes, select potatoes
about the same size for even cooking.  Scrub them well and dry them.
Don't cover potatoes with foil if you bake them.  Instead, rub them
with fat or oil.  Place them on a baking sheet or on the oven rack in
an oven preheated to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  Bake for 15 minutes,
then reduce heat to 350 degrees Fahrenheit and bake until soft, about
1+ hours.  For baking, use only cured potatoes.
   To boil yams, put them in a pot with enough lightly salted water
to cover them.  Cover pot and boil potatoes until they're tender.
Drain immediately so they won't get soggy.  
Serve baked or boiled yams plain or mashed with milk, juices and                
spices.  One medium-sized baked sweet potato contains about 155
calories.  A tablespoon of margarine adds 100 calories.
   Baked or boiled yams can be frozen for later use.  If you plan to
freeze sweet potatoes, bake potatoes only until they're about 3/4 done,
then cool them, wrap them individually in foil, and store them
together in a freezer bag or freezer paper.  Leave the potatoes in foil
to thaw and finish baking.
   To prepare boiled or mashed yams for freezing, cook with skins on
until almost tender.  Cool, peel, cut or mash.  Dip potatoes in orange
or lemon juice to keep them from darkening.  A solution of ascorbic
acid will also keep them from darkening.  Pack tightly in containers,
leaving half an inch of headspace.  Cover surface snugly with a layer
of freezer paper or film, seal and freeze.
   You can get more information about food preparation, nutrition and
diets from the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Making Homemade Ice Cream. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/8/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 3169
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3169,
"Making Homemade Ice Cream."
   Homemade ice cream is a favorite treat for young and old.  Ice
cream made at home offers characteristics somewhat different from
those of commercial ice cream.  It usually has a higher fat content, a
heavier body and a coarser texture.  There's also less air forced into
the homemade mixture than in the commercial ice creams.
   Because homemade ice cream is frozen slowly, the ice crystals are
larger and the end product is coarser than rapidly frozen commercial
ice cream.  Besides being delicious, ice cream is a nourishing dairy
food that provides calcium, protein, vitamin A, riboflavin and thiamin.
   Here are some tips which will make your homemade ice cream even
better:
   --Try to prepare the ice cream mixture the day before you plan to
freeze it.  This gives the mixture added smoothness and volume.
   --If you haven't made the custard early enough to refrigerate it
for a day, at least cool it before you freeze it in the ice cream
freezer.  Cool the container and the dasher thoroughly before freezing
the ice cream.  Don't try to freeze a warm custard...the ice cream will
have a buttery flavor and texture.
   --Use cream that can be whipped.  Whipping helps make the ice
cream smoother by incorporating air into the cream and distributing
the fat evenly.
   --Fill the freezer only two-thirds full to leave room for the ice
cream to expand as it freezes.
   --After placing the ice cream container in the bucket, fill the
bucket one-third full of ice before you start to add salt.  Alternate
salt and ice until the bucket is full.
 
--Use one part salt to eight parts ice.   art to add salt.  Alternatell         
   --If the ice cream is granular, you may have added too much salt
to the ice or you may have put too much ice cream in the container.
If you used a hand-cranked freezer, you may have turned it too
rapidly.
   --For variety, add ripe, mashed fruit to your ice cream mixture.
   For more information and suggestions about food and nutrition, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Poaching Eggs 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3170
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3170, "Poaching Eggs".
        If you're are watching your weight, a poached egg served over
steamed vegetables  is a delicious combination.  One large egg has
only 80 calories.  Two eggs are equivalent to one serving of meat.
        To poach an egg all you need is a deep skillet or saucepan.
The pan should be 2 to 3 inches deep so that it will hold enough
water to cover the egg.
        If you would like to use a poaching ring to help keep the egg
in an attractive shape, make one by using tuna cans or other small
cans with both ends removed.  The rings work best in more shallow
pans such as skillets.  Set the rings in the simmering water and slip
the eggs into the rings.
        Poaching is one of the easiest ways to cook an egg.  Eggs
should be as fresh as possible and cold.  This helps to prevent the egg
white from spreading ... producing a more compact poached egg.
        To properly poach eggs, heat 2 to 3 inches of liquid to
boiling.  You may use water, broth, tomato juice, soup or milk.  When
the liquid begins to boil, reduce the heat to keep it gently simmering.
Break cold eggs, one at a time, into a saucer or a custard cup.  Hold
the dish close to the liquid's surface as each egg is slipped into the
pan.  Cook the eggs in the simmering liquid for about 3 to 5 minutes.
After about 3 minutes of cooking, the eggs' whites will be firm, but
the yolks will still flow.  Yolks will harden after 5 minutes of
cooking.  Once the eggs are poached as desired, lift them out with a
slotted spoon and drain them in the spoon or on paper towels. 
Eggs provide high-quality protein and are very low in cost.                     
Since a dozen eggs weigh one and a half pounds, their cost per pound
is only two-thirds of the price per dozen.  With the exception of
Vitamin C, eggs are a good source of many vitamins and minerals.
They make a low-calorie, low-cost, nutritious contribution to any meal.
        For more information about food and nutrition, contact the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                 ###
-End-
-Title-
Toasting Pecans. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3174
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3174, "Toasting Pecans."
   You can toast pecans with or without spices.  If you like them
plain, stir three cups of shelled pecans and a half-stick of melted
margarine into a shallow baking pan.  Roast the pecans in a slow
oven...275 to 300 degrees for about 45 minutes to an hour, or until
toasted as desired.  Stir them every 15 minutes.  When the pecans are
done, drain them on absorbent paper and salt while they are warm.
Be careful not to overtoast pecans.  Smaller pecans cook faster, so
taste them as you toast.  The amount of moisture in pecans affects
cooking time, too.
   If you like spicy hot pecans, toast the pecans in a mixture of one
stick of melted margarine and one-half cup of Worcestershire (woos-
ter-sheer) sauce.  This is enough to coat one and one-half pounds of
shelled pecans.  Place the pecans on a baking pan in a 250-degree
oven and stir them until the nuts absorb all the liquid.  Remove them
from the oven and sprinkle with salt and cayenne pepper.  Stir the
nuts well to distribute seasonings.  Cool and store the pecans in a
covered, airtight container.
   You can also toast pecans in an electric skillet or in a skillet on
top of the range.  Be sure to use low heat and stir the pecans often.
Toasted pecans are great party treats and snacks.  They're a good
source of protein and B vitamins, too.
   For more information and suggestions about food preparation or for
a free pamphlet called "Louisiana Pecans," call the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Using Left-Over Turkey. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           Tele-Tip 3177
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number
3177, "Using Left-Over Turkey."
   To get the best of your left-overs, take care of them from the
beginning.  Refrigerate leftovers immediately after a meal.  Remove
any stuffing from the turkey cavities and put it in a separate
container to refrigerate it.  Take the turkey meat off the carcass and
put it in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
   Unfortunately, the practice of leaving the holiday feast in a warm
oven or on the table at room temperature for the evening meal is
not...I repeat not... safe.  Certain foods at these temperatures can
harbor bacteria that cause food poisoning.  The left-overs that you
put in your refrigerator will need to be used in two or three days.
   You may want to freeze some of your turkey left-overs if you want
to use them quite a bit later.  Wrap the meat in freezer paper or
heavy-duty aluminum foil, or you can use a freezer carton or bag.  Be
sure to press all the air out and wrap it securely to keep the meat
from drying out.  For the best quality...you shouldn't store turkey
more than a month.  Although the meat will be safe to eat for longer
than a month...the quality begins to deteriorate after that length of
time.
   Now, you know how to store the turkey safely...let's move on to
using left-over turkey.
   Casseroles are always a favorite...and there are many recipes from
which you can choose.  You can stir-fry turkey and vegetable pieces
together to camouflage what was once part of a holiday meal.  Not
only is this delicious, it's low-fat and low-calorie.  Left-over turkey
can also be combined with frozen green peas, fresh mushrooms, and
water chestnuts.  Chunks of left-over ham or beef with other
vegetables could also be prepared in the same way.
 
Of course, there are always the infamous turkey sandwiches...but   rkey         
try them with a new twist.  Try pita bread...sometimes called pocket
bread...lined with lettuce then filled with turkey salad made with
turkey chunks, celery for crunch, tomatoes and hard-cooked eggs.
   One last thought...don't throw away your turkey carcass.  Boil it
and make turkey and corn chowder, turkey-noodle soup or even turkey
gumbo.
   For more nutrition and cooking information and suggestions, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cooking Chicken in the Microwave. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/11/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3201
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3201,
"Cooking Chicken in the Microwave."
   Chicken is one of those foods that makes you happy that you have
a microwave oven.  Not only does chicken cook to perfection in a
microwave oven, it does it in a fraction of the time required by
conventional cooking methods.
   Also, a microwave oven is ideal for defrosting frozen chicken.  To
defrost chicken, simply take the chicken from the freezer, unwrap it
and place it in a casserole or baking dish that is safe for microwave
cooking.
   If your oven doesn't have a defrost power level, you might try
alternating a heating period of three-to-five minutes with a standing
period of three-to-five minutes for each pound of frozen chicken.
Rotate the dish at the end of each heating period.
   When you're cooking chicken in the microwave oven, you should
allow about six to seven minutes of cooking time for each pound of
meat.  However, not all microwave ovens cook at exactly the same
rate, so you should follow the manufacturers recommendation if they're
different from what I recommended a few seconds ago.
   Here are a few suggestions which should help make your microwave
cooked chicken dinners more appetizing.  To brown chicken, coat it
with butter, soy sauce, paprika, or a commercial browning sauce.
   Chicken usually cooks best when the oven cooking level is set on
"high."  For less than three pounds of chicken, you may want to use a
cooking level of "medium high"-to-"high."
   When you're cooking chicken parts, put the larger, meatier parts
near the outside and tuck the giblets under the breast.
 
To keep moisture in the meat and to avoid spatter, cover the   arts aey         
chicken with wax paper, a glass cover, or plastic wrap with one
corner folded back for a vent.
   Remember, standing time is important...because chicken continues to
cook after the oven is turned off.
   For more information or suggestions on cooking with a microwave
oven, call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Converting Recipes for Microwave. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/11/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3204
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3204,
"Converting Recipes for Microwave."
   After you have some experience with a microwave oven, you'll
probably want to begin converting some of your favorite recipes for
use with the microwave.  You'll be able to convert some recipes very
easily...others may require more experimentation.
   Because microwave ovens cook more quickly and with less
evaporation, you will need to reduce the moisture in the conventional
recipe by one-fourth.  For example, if your recipe calls for one cup of
water, reduce it to three-fourths of a cup.  For this same reason you
should use herbs and spices sparingly.  These flavors don't evaporate
when they're used in a microwave oven.
   To help you determine cooking times, remember that one cup of tap
water boils in two-and-half to three minutes.  The average food takes
one-fourth the time required in a conventional oven.  If your favorite
casserole takes one hour in a conventional oven...it should cook in
only fifteen minutes in a microwave oven.  The microwave cooking
time may take longer than one-fourth the conventional cooking time
for items normally cooked on top of the stove.
In fact, you find that you save very little time, if any at all, by
cooking this type food in a microwave oven.
   Factors which affect the cooking time include such things as the
temperature of the food when you begin cooking it, the shape of the
food, the volume of the food, the density of it or the weight of
it...and the wattage of your oven.
 
Look through your microwave cookbooks to find a recipe similar to   tef         
yours.  This can sometimes be a big help you determine which setting
to cook your dish.
   As you experiment with converting your recipes, you may find that
you will have try them more than once before you get your best
results.  Make a note of changes so you will remember them the next
time.
   For more information about microwave cooking or for a free
pamphlet call "Microwave Ovens," call the home economist in your
parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Microwave Utensils. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/11/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3205
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3205,
"Microwave Utensils."
   No metal cooking pots or pans can be used in microwave ovens.
That's the general rule...the exception to the rule is that some
manufacturers permit metal TV dinner trays in their ovens, but be
sure you follow the manufacturer's size specifications and so forth.
Even though metal trays are permitted in some ovens, it may still be
better to pop the food out onto a glass dish.  You'll get better
results faster.
   Generally...glass, ceramic, pyroceramic, and pottery containers can
be used in the oven.  Use utensils which have no metal trim
anywhere...this includes trims of gold and silver.  Some paints or
glazes contain metallic oxides made of substances that shouldn't be put
in the oven.
   To test a dish to determine whether it's safe for the microwave
oven, put one cup of tap water in the oven with the dish and set the
timer for one minute.  If the dish is still cool when you take it out it
can be used.  A hot dish is a warning that the dish is not suitable for
use in a microwave oven.  If the container has a screw in the glass
lid it cannot be used.  Corning Ware  can be used except for Centura
dinnerware and cookware covers and the Corelle Living Ware closed
handle cups.  The cups with open handles may be used in the
microwave oven.
 
Dishwasher-safe plastics may be used for heating foods that don't   fort        
contain fats and sugar.  Tupperware is best used for storing food...not
cooking it.  Melamine Ware, Melmac, has a tendency to absorb energy
so it should be tested to determine if it can be used.  Plastic foam
cups and dishes can be used for heating.  Some of the heavy duty
plastic wraps on the market may be used in the micrdowave oven for
short periods of time.  Other lightweight plastic wraps have a
tendency to become distorted in the microwave oven.  Wax paper or
paper towels are good covers to use in the microwave oven.  Plastic
baby bottles can be used for heating milk or formula.  Spatulas and
spoons for non-stick pans can be left in the oven for a short time.
Plastic utensils should be use only for heating foods to serving
temperature.  Longer cooking causes the food to reach a high
temperature and distorts the plastic.
   Paper such as napkins, towels, plates, cups, frozen food cartons,
freezer wrap and heavy cardboard is suitable for microwave oven use.
They may help to absorb moisture and prevent splatter if they're
placed over the food.  Rolls and breads can be heated in a napkin or
cloth to prevent the from becoming soggy.  Avoid cooking foods on
paper for long periods.
   Straw or wooden baskets with no metallic paint or staples can be
used for reheating breads.  Wooden spoons can be left in a dish in the
microwave for a short time.  Don't use a wooden spoon or a dish with
a varnish or lacquer finish or one that has been seasoned with
cooking oil.  The heat could ruin the finish.
 
Small amounts of aluminum foil can be used to shield those part of   ett        
foods that are unevenly shaped, or are overcooking, or you just don't
want to cook.  What you must remember is that you must have a total
of two cups of food in the oven.  Be sure the aluminum foil used for
shielding does not touch the sides of the oven and that it is smooth.
A spoon accidentally left in the dish, a foil lined paper sack, a metal
ring on a dish, or a metal tie or a loaf of bread will act as an
antenna and cause arcing in the oven.  Avoid using metal in the oven.
   For more information about cooking with a microwave oven, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Microwave--Food Preservation. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/11/82 (Montgomery)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3206
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3206,
"Microwave--Food Preservation."
   A microwave oven cannot be used to safely process fresh
vegetables for home canning...and there are several reasons for this.
   First, metal lids can't be used in the microwave oven.  Second,
low-acid foods must be processed in a pressure canner so they can be
heated to a temperature of 240 degrees Fahrenheit.  This high
temperature is needed to kill organisms that might cause serious
illness or even death.  The microwave oven will heat these low-acid
foods to boiling which is only 212 degrees Fahrenheit.
   If you're preserving fresh vegetable by freezing, you can blanch
small quantities in the microwave oven.  When you need to blance
large quantities of vegetables before you freeze them, it's still more
efficient to use a large pot on a conventional stove.
   You can use your microwave oven to make jelly, jam, relish and
pickles.
Also, drying food in a microwave oven can be successful in some dry
areas of the country...buy it's not likely to be successful in Louisiana
because of the state's high humidity.  This is especially true for the
high-moisture fruits and vegetables, although a citrus peel and a few
herbs will dry quite well in a microwave oven here in Louisiana.
   The problem with drying food in a microwave oven is that there is
no way for the moisture to escape from the oven, so the food re-
absorbs the moisture as quickly as it is taken from the food.
   For more information about cooking with microwave ovens or for a
free pamphlet called "Freezing Vegetables" which includes a listing of
recommended times for blanching popular garden vegetables in a
microwave oven, call the home economist in your parish office of the
LSU Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
 
                               ce.omist in your parish office of theofna        
-End-
-Title-
Adolescent Weight Control. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3250
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3250, "Adolescent Weight Control."
   The best way for teens to lose weight is for them to increase their
activity.  Activity uses up calories.  Teens are still growing, so it is
dangerous for them to restrict their calorie intake severely.  Too few
calories may mean they won't grow in height or that developing body
organs may be damaged.
   Teenage boys need 2,700 to 2,800 calories each day, and teenage
girls need 2,100 to 2,200 calories.  Choosing foods wisely will supply
both the energy needed for rapid growth and hormonal changes and
the nutrients needed in greater amounts, particularly vitamins and
minerals.
   Teenagers who want to lose weight should cut down on foods which
provide calories but few nutrients.  These foods include fats, sweets
and alcohol.  Soft drinks and candy bars are good examples.
   A realistic weight loss of one to two pounds a week is best.
Weight lost slowly is more likely to stay off.  Keeping a food diary
chart for a few days can help young people realize that eating habits
are tied to activities like watching television and to moods such as
boredom.  A food diary should include information on foods eaten, as
well as when, where and how much food was eaten.
   Two serious disorders affect mainly teenagers.  They are anorexia
nervosa and bulimia.  Anorexia nervosa is really self-starvation.  It
can result in severe and even life-threatening malnutrition.
 
Bulimia is excessive eating followed by forced vomiting.  It can   Ityis        
lead to tooth decay, throat and esophageal irritation, dehydration and
stomach rupture.  Therapy for these two disorders includes medical
attention, psychological counseling and extensive nutrition education
aimed at making sufferers aware of the effects of their behavior on
their health.
   When teenagers eat and exercise properly, they are happier with
their self image and feel more in control of their life.
   For more information and suggestions about proper nutrition and
weight control, call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Calories Do Count. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3251
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3251, "Calories Do Count."
   No matter what claims are made by weight loss plans, the only
proven way for you to lose weight is to eat fewer calories than your
body needs.  The best way to do this is to reduce the amount of food
you eat and increase your physical activity.
   You may associate calorie cutting with weight control, but may not
understand exactly what it is you're counting.  A calorie is a measure
of energy or the ability to do work.  The food you eat is your energy
intake and physical activity is your energy output.  The calorie is
defined as the amount of energy needed to raise the temperature of
one gram of water by one degree Celsius.
   Carbohydrates, fats and protein -- three of the nutrients that food
provides -- also have the capacity of producing energy.  The amount
of energy that food contains is measured in one thousand-calorie
units, which are called "kilocalories."  Although the calories you add
up for a day's meals and snacks are actually kilocalories, we still use
the term "calorie" to designate this food energy.
   The number of calories you need depends on the amount of energy
your body uses.  Because people are different, their caloric needs are
different, too.  These calorie differences are due to differences in
basal metabolic rate for basic body functions such as breathing and
heart beating. They're also due to differences in levels of physical
activity, health status, body size, body composition, and growth stages.
When you normally take in more calories than your body needs for all
of these activities and functions, the extra calories are converted to
fat and you gain weight.
   The best way for you to lose this body fat is to decrease excess
food consumption and increase physical activity. However, you should
never drastically reduce your food intake.  Diets which contain too
few calories can lead to nutritional deficiencies and poor health.
   A well-balanced diet, including foods from the basic food groups,
along with a regular program of physical activity, provides the best
means of weight control.
   For more information about diet and weight control or for free
copies of the pamphlets "Food and Your Weight" and "Calories and
Your Weight," call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Changing Food Habits. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3252
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3252, "Changing Food Habits."
   Losing weight and keeping it off usually requires changes in our
eating habits.  Since human beings are creatures of habit, we often do
things we are not aware of that cause us to either gain weight or
keep us from losing weight.
   A good way to decide if you have some habits that are keeping you
from achieving your weight loss goals is to keep a food diary for
several days or for a week.  A food diary will help you become aware
of how much you are eating, why you are eating, and your eating
patterns.
   In your food diary you'll want to write down the following things
each day -- the types and amounts of foods you eat -- the times you
eat -- the number of minutes you spend eating -- the places you eat -
_ how hungry you are when eating -- how you felt when you were
eating -- and other activities related to eating.
   When you enter the types and amounts of foods you eat in your
diary, remember to write down all foods -- meals, snacks and nibbles
_- immediately after you have eaten them.  Do not write them down
before eating.  Wait until you're finished, so you'll be sure to record
exactly what you had.  You may be surprised at the amounts and kinds
of foods you eat regularly.
   By entering the number of times you eat, you may find that you
nibble quite a lot.
   The number of minutes you spend eating could reveal that you're
eating too fast.  Overweight people often eat too fast.  Learning to
eat more slowly helps you to recognize when you're full -- and it
helps you to enjoy your food more.
   You may eat out often -- or when at home -- you may eat in areas
of the house other than the dining room or the kitchen.  Just by
allowing yourself to eat in specified places of your home, may help
you to reduce your food intake.
   To find out how hungry you are when you're eating, rate your
hunger on a scale of one to four, with one being the least hungry and
four being starved. If you're not sure whether you're hungry, ask
yourself these questions -- has it been three or four hours since I last
ate -- have I been more active than usual today -- and would I be
satisfied with a meal of fish or lean meat and vegetables.  If you
answer yes to all these questions, you're probably hungry.
   Our moods may lead us to want to eat.  How you feel when eating
could effect your eating habits.  Boredom, nervousness, and loneliness
can all cause eating binges.
   Sometimes other activities, such as watching TV or a movie,
working or reading, may be activities you associate with eating
without being conscious of it.
   By examining your food diary, you'll learn a great deal about your
eating habits.  Perhaps you'll find you eat large amounts when bored,
depressed, or frustrated.  You may find a lot of your eating is just
routine -- as in joining your children for cookies and juice when they
come home from school.
   Learning yourself better through your food diary will help you
make changes that can lead to your weight loss goals.
   For more information about diet and weight control or for free
copies of the pamphlets "Food and Your Weight" and "Calories and
Your Weight," call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Cooking Methods to Cut Calories. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3253
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3253,
"Cooking Methods to Cut Calories."
   When it comes to cutting calories in your cooking one of the first
things you need to be able to do is recognize high calorie foods.
Generally, high calorie foods have these characteristics...thick, oily or
greasy-crisp...slick, smooth or gooey...sweet or sticky...compact or
concentrated alcohol.
   Generally, low calorie foods have these characteristics...thin, watery
or dilute...bulky or with lots of fiber or coarseness...water-crisp.
   Now...down to cooking to cut calories.  First, avoid adding fat to
cooked vegetables.  Instead, combine different vegetables to get
variety.  For example...green beans and mushrooms; peas and onions.
Also, cook without added butter, margarine, fat back or bacon.  Let
each person season his or her own food.
   You can also cut down on calories in your cooking by removing all
visible fat from meat.  Most fish are low in fat...and fat in poultry is
usually just under the skin...so, removing the skin will reduce the
calories.  Use meat drippings after the fat has been skimmed off...and
stay away from "country-style" preparation.  Cooking in gravies or
sauces add many calories.
   Remember, alcoholic beverages are high in calories.  And there are
loads of calories in the snacks often eaten with alcoholic beverages.
The famous three martini lunch contains 420 calories and you haven't
eaten anything.  Dry wines are lower in calories than sweet wines.
   And finally, use items containing sugar substitutes in moderation.
Train your tastes toward fewer sweets.
   For more nutriton and cooking information and suggestions, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Dangers of Fad Diets. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3255
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3255, "Dangers of Fad Diets."
   The latest weight reducing diets and aids, like hula hoops and
other fads, are here one day and gone the next.  These diet fads
appeal to many people because they promise an easy, quick way to
lose weight.  Some popular diets allow very little food or even
promote fasting for certain periods.  Other diets promise miraculous
results through the eating of particular foods or the combination of
certain foods.
        The problem with most of these diets is that they're not
balanced and don't provide the necessary nutrients.  If you follow any
of them for a long period of time, they may be harmful.  In addition,
most of these diets don't change your dietary habits that produce
lasting weight loss.
        Some weight control fads include low carbohydrate diets.
These diets prescribe foods rich in protein and fat with very little
carbohydrate.  Because  little or no carbohydrate is allowed, these
diets quickly lose their appeal.  The weight loss, especially the large
amount at the beginning of these diets, is primarily water.
   Low carbohydrate diets also lack essential vitamins and minerals
and could cause elevated blood cholesterol levels and ketosis.  Ketosis
occurs when carbohydrates are not available to the body for energy.
Substances called ketones build up in the blood causing it to become
acidic.  Symptoms of ketones include fatigue, weakness, nausea,
dehydration, and bad breath.                     Liquid protein or
supplemented fasting is suppose to burn fat while sparing body muscle.
Since most of these diets provide only three hundred to five hundred
calories per day, they are nutritionally incomplete.  Muscle breakdown
may occur due to the very low calorie content of the diet.  Side
effects you may experience from these liquid diets include nausea,
vomiting, diarrhea, constipation, muscle cramps, fatigue, and heart
irregularities.  Some deaths have been attributed to these diets.
   Fasting is an extreme way to try to lose weight.  One of the main
problems with fasting is that not only is fat burned, but so is lean
body tissue -- which is muscle.  You should remember that your heart
is a muscle. Since no carbohydrate is eaten with this diet, ketosis
occurs with its symptoms.
   Fasting can cause many deficiencies since it lacks in all essential
nutrients.  Because your body has mechanisms to adapt to fasting or
starvation, it begins to conserve energy, resulting in the slowing of
weight loss.
   Another weight control fad is diet pills.  These include appetite
suppressants which curb your appetite.  The pills usually only work a
few weeks at the most and may produce unpleasant side effects.
There is also a danger of potential abuse of these drugs.
   Some may seek to lose weight through bypass surgery.  The
intestinal bypass has been succeeded in popularity by stomach
reduction because of the many severe health complications associated
with intestinal surgery.  This surgery reduces the size of the stomach
so only small amounts of food can be eaten at one time.  Surgical
procedures are considered to be drastic measures and are not
recommended unless a physician feels obesity is life threatening and
other weight loss plans have failed.             To lose weight
safely and keep it off, your best choice is a combination of nutritious,
well-balanced meals and snacks using the basic food groups, and a
program of regular exercise.  When you're considering a plan to lose
weight, make sure the reducing plan you're trying is nutritionally
sound -- does not promise miraculous results with no effort -- and is
one that fits your lifestyle and pocketbook.
   For more information about diet and weight control or for free
copies of the pamphlets "Food and Your Weight" and "Calories and
Your Weight," call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Dieting During the Holiday Season. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/22/82 (Gentry)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3256
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3256,
"Dieting During the Holiday Season."
   The holiday season with its rich food and drink may be a disaster
for you if you're trying to either lose weight or just not gain any.
The thing to remember at holiday time is that it's a lot easier to keep
pounds off than it is to take them off.
   One way to handle this problem is to be ready for the foods before
you see them.  Learn which party foods are high in calories and which
are low so you can choose the ones which will help you with your
weight program.
   A calorie counter book can help you with this.  If you're not
familiar with a certain food, you can usually judge its calorie level by
certain characteristics it has.  For example, a food is usually low in
calories if it is thin and water, crisp with water or bulky like greens.
On the other hand, a food is likely to be high in calories if it is
greasy or oily, smooth and thick, or sweet and gooey.
   Alcoholic beverages are often the downfall for people watching
their weight.  A highball usually contains about 150 calories...and a
sweet after-dinner drink may contain even more.  A half-cup of
eggnog...about four ounces...contains about 170 calories.  Add a half-
jigger of alcohol to the eggnog and the calorie content jumps to 215
calories.  Remember, the higher the alcohol content of a drink, the
higher the calorie content.  A glass of dry white wine should have a
lower calorie content of 90 calories.
   Eating fewer calories in regular meals during the holiday season
can help leave room for those extra calories you're likely to pick up
during parties and family gatherings.  But, remember that the calories
in all those sweet snacks you eat during the holidays count, too. 
For more information and suggestions about dieting and nutrition,               
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Exercise and Weight Control. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3257
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3257, "Exercise and Weight Control."
   A good weight loss program should include moderate exercise on a
consistent basis.  Many nutrition experts agree that it is wiser to
increase your activity rather than cutting your calories drastically.
Too low calorie diets can result in nutritional deficiencies and poor
health.
        The type of exercise you choose should be something you like
to do.  Your exercise program should be based on your age, health and
physical condition.  Be sure to check with your physician about the
exercise program before you begin.
   The most beneficial exercise for weight loss and control involves
the use of large muscle groups.  The exercise should be rhythmic and
aerobic -- such as walking, running or swimming.  For good results,
you should exercise at least three days a week for twenty to thirty
minutes.  Brisk walking for two to three miles at least three times a
week is an excellent choice of exercise.
        When you exercise, you use energy.  A man weighing one
hundred and fifty pounds uses eighty calories walking one mile.  A
woman weighing one hundred and twenty-one pounds uses sixty-three
calories.  If the man runs one mile, he uses one hundred and twenty
calories and the woman uses ninety-four calories.
   Besides burning calories during the exercise session itself, studies
have shown that the body's metabolism speeds up.  This means that
excess calories are burned at a faster rate for hours after the
exercise, resulting in greater weight loss.  Regular exercise also
strengthens your heart, improves muscular endurance, muscular power,
flexibility, coordination and makes you feel better.
   For a winning weight control combination, remember to eat
nutritious, well-balanced meals from a variety of foods and to exercise
regularly.
   For a free pamphlet called "Food and Your Weight" or for more
information on weight control, contact the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Foods Lower in Calories. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3259
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3259, "Foods Lower in Calories."
   Some foods or groups of foods, such as the potato, "starchy foods"
and "white foods", have gotten the reputation of being fattening.  The
truth is that since all foods contain calories or food energy, eating
too much of any has the potential for leading to excess pounds of fat
gained.
   Of course, some foods do contain more calories than others.  For
example, fat provides twice as many calories per gram than either
protein or carbohydrate.  Foods that contain large amounts of sugars
plus fat are usually considered to be higher in calories also.
   Most vegetables and fruits are fairly low in calories because many
are high in fiber and water.  Since fiber is not digested it has no
calories.  It takes greater amounts of vegetables and fruits to equal
the amount of calories  in foods containing large amounts of fat or
concentrated sweeteners.  Fresh fruits or fruits packed in natural
juices or water are also lower in calories than fruits packed in syrups.
   The way foods are prepared determines how many calories they
contain. For example, a plain boiled or baked potato has about 100
calories while that same potato served as hashed browns would have
235 calories.
   Dietetic foods are not always low calorie either.  These foods
usually contain sweeteners other than sucrose--table sugar.  These
sweeteners, such as sorbitol, yield as many calories when eaten as
table sugar.  For instance, dietetic ice cream provides about as many
calories as regular ice cream.
   There are  also some reduced calorie salad dressings, margarines
and cheeses that contain fewer calories than regular products because
of smaller amounts of fat.  You can find out the amount of calories
per serving these foods contain by reading the labels.Nutritionally
sound diets for weight control include a variety of foods from the
basic food groups-- milk and cheese--meat, poultry, fish and beans--
vegetables and fruits--and bread and cereal.  These basic foods are
usually limited on a weight control diet, but all are included because
they provide not only calories, but necessary nutrients for good health
as well.
   The meat group provides such nutrients as protein, iron, B vitamins
and zinc.  The bread-cereal group gives us carbohydrate, B vitamins
and iron and the whole grain varieties provide fiber.  The vegetable-
fruit group is rich in Vitamins A and C, as well as fiber.  The milk-
cheese group supplies protein, calcium, riboflavin and Vitamins A and
D.
   There's also a food group called the fats, sweets and alcohol group.
This group includes items that contain fat, concentrated amounts of
sugar or alcohol.  We get food energy or calories from this group but
few other nutrients.  For this reason, the group is usually drastically
limited on weight control diets.
   For copies of free pamphlets called "Food And Your Weight" and
"Calories And Weight" or for more information on diets and weight
control, contact the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Menu Planning for the Dieter. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3261
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3261, "Menu Planning for the Dieter."
   Your low-calorie meals don't have to be boring.  Many people who
thought that low-calorie meals consisted only of such foods as plain
cottage cheese, celery sticks and steamed spinach are finding
excitement in preparing low-calorie gourmet food.  You'll find that
foods don't have to be dripping with rich sauces or coated with
batters to be delicious.
        Some low-calorie main dishes you may want to try include the
following --Roll up cooked, tender, crisp broccoli spears in thin slices
of cooked chicken or turkey.  Top them with thin slices of mozzarella
cheese, a sprinkle of parsley and pimento strips.  Then, heat them
until the cheese melts.
   Try cooking trimmed lean beef or pork strips which have been
marinated in lemon and serve them over a vegetable mix of cauliflower
florets, peas, carrots and asparagus pieces.
   You can use an outdoor grill to cook lean beef, veal or lamb shish
kabobs.  Trim the fat from the meat and cut it into cubes.  Then
marinate the cubes in a mixture of lemon juice, ginger and coriander.
Alternate the meat cubes with cherry tomatoes, green pepper chunks,
fresh mushrooms and pearl onions. Then, baste the shish kabobs with
marinade while you're grilling them.
   For a tasty low-calorie fish dish, roll flounder or cod filets around
tender, crisp green beans cooked in two tablespoons of chopped onion.
Top them with tomato sauce seasoned with oregano, basil and garlic
powder, a sprinkle of grated Parmesan cheese and bake until the fish
is tender and flaky.
   The bread and cereal group needs to be included in any weight
control program.  Some ideas for lower calorie grains include the
following.
        Instead of serving rice with gravy, cook the rice in a flavored
beef or chicken broth for an interesting taste without lots of calories.
   Instead of topping your baked potato with sour cream, top it with
a tablespoon of plain yogurt, a sprinkle of grated, low fat cheese and
some chives to reduce calories.
   Instead of boiling your vegetables, steam them until they're tender
and crisp.  Then, experiment with lemons, herbs and spices to brighten
them instead   of using salt and high calorie sauces made with butter
and margarine.
   For dessert, you can use a variety of fresh fruits in season.  If
you use canned or frozen fruits, choose fruits that are canned in
natural juices or water and unsweetened frozen fruits.
   A scoop of frozen lemon yogurt served on a slice of honeydew
melon, topped with fresh raspberries makes an elegant dessert that's
not loaded with calories.
   Don't let yourself get in a rut on your weight control diet.  Try
developing your own new tasty menu ideas.
   For a free pamphlet called "Food and Your Weight" or for more
information about diet and nutrition, contact the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Tricks to Make You Slim. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                                  TeleTip 3265

   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3265

"Tricks to Make You Slim."

   If you're trying to lose weight or keep the weight you've
already lost

off, try these tricks.

   Drink a glass of water before you eat to help make your stomach
feel

fuller.

   Control those mealtime hunger pangs about a half hour before a
meal with

a small amount of carbohydrate -- such as a glass of vegetable
juice, some fruit

or a couple crackers.

   Eat your food slowly and put your fork down after each bite.

   Try eating with the wrong hand or with chopsticks if you can't
slow your

eating pace.

   Serve your plate from the kitchen rather than leaving serving
bowls of

food on the table which might tempt you to eat more.

   Learn to stop eating before you feel full.  The hunger you may
still

feel after eating will disappear within about twenty minutes after
you stop

eating.

   Eat meals regularly and on schedule.  You're much more likely to
overeat

later or grab high calorie snacks if you've missed a meal.

   Keep low calorie snacks handy for hunger attacks.

   As much as possible, be flexible with your diet.  Learn how to
budget

calories to take advantage of holiday and special meals.

   Stay busy with things you like to do.  This helps keep your mind
off of

food.

   You can burn extra calories by walking instead of driving to work
or by

parking at the far end of the lot if you drive.  Take stairs instead
of the

elevator and walk during coffee or lunch breaks.      A final good
way to control your weight is to organize an exercise club

with your friends at work or close to home.

   For a free pamphlet called "Food and Your Weight" or for more

information, contact the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana

Cooperative Extension Service.


                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Your Daily Calorie Requirement. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3267
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3267, "Your Daily Calorie Requirement."
   A commonly asked question by those interested in weight control
is, "How many calories do I need every day?"
   The number of calories or the amount of food energy you need
depends on many different factors such as your age, health, body type
and size and your activity.  Some very active persons are able to eat
larger amounts of food and not gain weight while those who are less
active do gain weight.  People who have rounded, soft body types--
called endomorphs--seem to gain weight more easily than those who
have slender, wiry body types--called ectomorphs.
   The Food and Nutrition Board of the National Research Council has
suggested an intake of 2,700 calories a day for men between the ages
of 23 and 50 and 2,000 calories a day for women between these ages.
These caloric allowances are suggested averages for adults performing
light work.  Your individual calorie need may vary.
   One way to find out how many calories you need to maintain your
present weight is to multiply the amount of energy you use times your
weight.  If you are inactive, use 14 to 16 calories to multiply--if
you're moderately active, use 16 to 18 calories--and if you're very
active, multiply your weight by 18 to 20 calories.  For example, an
inactive woman weighing 120 pounds would multiply 120 by 14 , which
would equal 1,680--the amount of calories she would need each day to
maintain her present weight.
   If you want to lose weight, you have to burn more calories than
you take in.  One pound of body fat represents 3,500 calories.  In
order to gain one pound, you must eat 3,500 calories more than your
body needs.
   Therefore, in order to lose a pound of body fat, you must eat 3,500
calories less than your body needs.  If you reduce your caloric intake
500 calories a day for a week, the projected loss in body fat would be
one pound.

Remember that you are looking at pounds of actual body fat loss, not
just changes in body weight.
        Weight loss may vary for several reasons.  On some types of
weight control diets, more fluid is loss at first, resulting in sharper
weight drops initially.  As weight loss continues, the body requires
fewer calories for its functions so the rate of weight loss may be
slow.  Daily changes in body fluid also affect your weight.  Just
because you weigh one pound more in the evening than you weighed
that morning doesn't mean that you've gained one pound of body fat.
   The best combination for losing weight and maintaining it is eating
a variety of well-balanced, nutritious foods from the basic food groups
and following a program of regular exercise.
        For copies of free pamphlets called "Food and Your Weight"
and "Calories And Weight" or for more information on diets and
weight control, contact the the home economist in your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Ballpoint Ink. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/12/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3501
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3501,
"Ballpoint Ink."
   If you keep getting ballpoint ink stains on your clothes or other
fabrics?  Then, you might want to get a product called Inknix.  You
pretreat ink stains with it before washing or sponging the fabric
with a dry cleaning solvent.
   Inknix. . .spelled I-N-K-N-I-X...is available in some stationery
office supply stores.  It's manufactured by Ozburn-Janesville
Corporation of Janesville, Wisconsin.
   If you don't have Inknix, here is another method. Sponge the ink
mark with rubbing alcohol.  Next, rub detergent into the stain.
Then rinse with warm water.
   If the stain remains, try applying lukewarm glycerine.  You can
buy glycerine at drug stores and department stores. It's spelled G-
L-Y-C-E-R-I-N-E.  To use glycerine, rinse a cloth in hot, sudsy
water.  Squeeze it almost dry, then pour a little glycerine on the
warm cloth and rub into the stain.  Let it set a minute or two, then
work the glycerine into the stain.  Now, rub the stain again.  Rub
briskly if the stain's on a sturdy fabric, but carefully if it's a
delicate fabric.  Let the glycerine set a minute or two longer.  Rub
again and rinse the stain.
   If the stain remains, repeat the process.  If the fabric is
bleachable, you can remove any remaining stain by washing it with
detergent and chlorine bleach.  But, be sure to follow the
directions of the bleach container.
   For valuable items, take them to the dry cleaners as soon as
possible after the stain is discovered.  Be sure you point out the
stain to the dry cleaners.  You shouldn't try to remove ink stains
from suede or leather garments at home.  Always take these to the
dry cleaners.
 
The LSU Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing Inknix.   subups.        
There may be other products that will work equally well in removing
ink stains.  You may find these by checking labels or asking for
such products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Candle Wax from Fabrics and Surfaces. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3502
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3502,
"Removing Candle Wax from Fabrics and Surfaces."
   Don't try to remove candle wax from furniture by scraping it with
your fingernail.  It's tempting...but the hot wax softens the furniture's
surface and makes marring easy.  Wait until the wax hardens, then
scrape it gently with a dull knife or thin piece of plastic, such as a
credit card.  If you're using a credit card, hold the card in both
hands.  Tilt the card slightly and scrape gently so you can remove the
wax without gouging the surface.
   After removing as much of the wax as possible, wipe the rest with
a cloth wrung out in warm, sudsy water or dab the spot with cleaning
fluid.  You might try a product called Energine...spelled E-N-E-R-G-I-
N-E...or Carbona...spelled C-A-R-B-O-N-A...or Renuzit...spelled R-E-N-
U-Z-I-T.  Dry the surface, then wipe it with your choice of furniture
polish, wax or oil.  Rub with the grain until no sign of the stain
remains.
   To remove candle wax from table linens, first scrape away as much
wax as possible with a plastic card or dull knife.  Next, place a piece
of blotting material...such as paper towel or napkin...under the stain.
Place another piece of blotting material over the wax stain.  Press it
with a warm iron.  The warm iron will melt the wax into the paper.
Change the paper as it becomes soiled.
   If a colored dye remains, sponge the dye stain with denatured
alcohol diluted with two parts of water.  If the article is washable,
wash it in warm, sudsy water.  If it's not washable, sponge it with a
dry cleaning solvent.
   Wax that has dripped onto the curves and crevices of a metal
candlestick is hard to remove.  To speed up the process...put the
candle holder in the freezer.  Once the wax freezes, it can be peeled
off easily.
   Change candles before they burn too low.  Extinguish flames by
snuffing rather than blowing.  This way you will be less likely to get
wax on linens and furniture.
   There may be other commercial products available that will work
equally well to remove candle wax stains.  Check labels or ask for
these products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   No endorsement is implied nor is discrimination intended by
mentioning commercial products in this program.
   For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Chewing Gum From Fabric. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/12/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3503
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3503,
"Removing Chewing Gum From Fabric."
   If you've gotten yourself into a sticky situation by getting
chewing gum on your clothes, there are ways to get it off that are
safe for your garments.
   First...using a dull knife...lift the gum off the fabric.  Then,
rub ice on the stain.  This will help harden the rest of the gum so
you can lift it off more easily.
   If the fabric is washable, you should spray the stain with a pre-
wash spray.  Let it set for five or ten minutes.  Now, saturate the
stain again with the pre-wash spray, rubbing the gummed area to
dissolve the gum.  Work some laundry detergent into the stain, then
rinse it well with hot water.  You should hold the stained area
under the faucet so the gummy residue can be rinsed off.
   If the gum remains, repeat the process.  If not, launder the item
using a bleach that is safe for that fabric.
   To remove gum stains from non-washable items, you should sponge
the stained area with a cleaning fluid such as Energine...spelled E-
N-E-R-G-I-N-E... or Renuzit...spelled R-E-N-U-Z-I-T...or
Carbona...that's C-A-R-B-O-N-A.  You can usually get these products
in drug stores or houseware departments.
   Always test cleaning fluid in a place that doesn't show.  If the
fluid doesn't seem to hurt the fabric, you can use it.  Place the
stained side of the fabric face down on a clean paper towel.  Sponge
the back of the stain with cleaning fluid.  If the paper towel
doesn't absorb the gum, tap the back of the stained area with a
spoon.  The sturdier the fabric the harder you can tap.  Repeat the
process until the stain is gone.
   For valuable, dry-clean-only items, have the stain removed
professionally.  Be sure to point the stain out to the cleaners.
 
The LSU Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any   rs.theeet.'s       
products mentioned.  There may be others that work equally well to
remove chewing gum stains as those named.  You may check labels are
ask for such products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Coffee and Tea Stains. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/13/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3504
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3504,
"Removing Coffee and Tea Stains."
   Stains left by coffee or tea spilled on washable garments are a
cleaning job you can do yourself.  But, if the stain is on a non-
washable fabric, you should take it to the dry cleaners.
   If your washable garment was stained by black coffee or tea
without sugar or milk, mix a solution of one quart warm water, a
half teaspoon liquid dishwashing detergent and a tablespoon of white
vinegar.  Soak the garment in this solution for 15 minutes.  Now,
rinse with water and sponge the stain with alcohol before
laundering.
   If the stain persists, soak the garment for 30 minutes in a
solution of one quart warm water, a tablespoon of an enzyme
product...such as Biz, spelled B-I-Z. Launder it again, and use a
bleach that is safe for the fabric to remove the last traces of the
stain.  Directions on the bleach container will tell give you the
amount of bleach to use.
   If the coffee or tea contained cream, start by sponging the stain
with a dry cleaning solvent such as Carbona... spelled C-A-R-B-O-N-
A... or Energine... spelled E-N-E-R-G-I-N-E... or Renuzit... spelled
R-E-N-U-Z-I-T.  Or, saturate the stain with a pre-wash soil and
stain remover.
   Next soak the garment for 15 minutes in a solution of a quart of
warm water, a half teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent and a
tablespoon of white vinegar.  Rinse with water, sponge the stain
with alcohol and then launder.  You may add a bleach safe for the
fabric to the wash to remove the last traces of the stain.  Follow
directions on the bleach container.
 
If the coffee or tea had both sugar and cream in it, you should   fdet.'s       
immediately sponge the stain with cold water.  Next, soak the
stained area in a solution of a quart of warm water, a half teaspoon
of liquid dishwashing detergent and a tablespoon of white vinegar.
Let the garment soak in the solution for 15 minutes.  Then rinse it
with water, sponge it with alcohol and launder it.  You may want to
use a bleach safe for the fabric to remove the last traces of stain.
   To remove coffee and tea stains from washable fabrics and linens,
you may also use one of the products that clean coffee and tea pots.
Follow directions on the container.
   The LSU Cooperative Extension Service does not endorse any of the
products mentioned.  There may be other products or procedures that
will remove coffee and tea stains equally well.  You may check
labels or ask for such products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Cosmetic Stains. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/12/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3505
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3505,
"Cosmetic Stains."
   Cosmetic stains on your clothes usually don't ruin your garments.
Generally, these stains can be removed from your clothing with just
a little effort.
   Cosmetics come in two types...greasy and non-greasy.  Non-greasy
cosmetics include powdered makeup, eye shadow, blusher and similar
items.  Greasy cosmetics are lipstick, rouge, liquid makeup and
mascara.
   You can remove non-greasy cosmetic stains by dampening them with
water first.  Then, rub the area with a paste made from detergent
granules and water.  You also can use liquid detergent and water.
   If the stain is from oily cosmetics, you should pre-treat the
area with a pre-wash soil and stain remover.
   Or, you can place the stain face down on paper towels.  Sponge
the back of the stain with a dry cleaning solvent such as
Renuzit...that's spelled R-E-N-U-Z-I-T...Energine...spelled E-N-E-R-
G-I-N-E...Carbona...that's C-A-R-B-O-N-A... or some other spot
remover.  You can buy these at drug stores and grocery stores, and
sometimes in clothing and department stores.
   As you sponge the back of the fabric, move the fabric to a clean
area of the paper towel frequently so the towel with take out more
of the color.  Dampen the stain with water and work detergent into
the stained area.
   Rinse and launder your garment.  If the stain is still there,
treat it with chlorine bleach, if that's safe for the fabric.  If
the item is non-colorfast, use a bleach that's safe for colors.
 
For stains on suedes, leather garments and other valuable non-   on-et.'s       
washable items, have them professionally cleaned.  It's safest not
to try to remove stains from these garments at home.  When you take
the garment to the cleaners,
point out the stain to the clerk.
   For cosmetic stains on other dry-clean-only items, a cleaning
solvent or spot remover may be used.  But, if in doubt about care
for the fabric, check the label.
   In emergency situations, non-greasy spots may be dabbed with club
soda.  The bubbling of the carbonated water will generally remove
the stain.  Don't overwet the spot, though.  Follow the club soda
dab with a brisk rub using a clean, dry paper towel or handkerchief.
   The LSU Cooperative Extension Service does not endorse any of the
items mentioned.  There may be other products that will work equally
as well.  You may check labels or ask for such products where
cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Crayon Stains. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/12/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3506
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3506,
"Removing Crayon Stains."
   If crayons go through the laundry and leave spots on clothes,
don't despair.  There are ways to remove crayon stains.
   With just a few spots on a washable garment, you can remove the
surface crayon wax with a dull knife.  Next, you should place the
stained area between paper towels and press it with a warm iron.
Placing the garment with the stain face-down on the paper towels,
sponge the back of the remaining stain with a pre-wash spray or a
dry cleaning solvent.  You might use Renuzit...spelled R-E-N-U-Z-I-
T...Energine, E-N-E-R-G-I-N-E...Carbona...that's C-A-R-B-O-N-A... or
other solvent spot removers.  You can buy these spot removers at
drug stores and grocery stores, as well as some clothing and
department stores.
   After sponging with the solvent, let the fabric dry, then launder
it with soap.  If traces of color remain, you can wash it again
using chlorine bleach...if that's safe to use on that fabric.  If
not, soak the garment in an enzyme pre-soak or oxygen bleach with
the hottest water safe for the fabric.  Now, launder the garment.
   But, if crayon stains have spread throughout a load of clothes,
you need to follow this procedure.  First, wash the items with the
hottest water safe for the fabric, using a laundry soap and a cup of
baking soda.  If color still remains, launder the items with
detergents or soap, using a chlorine bleach...if it's safe for the
fabric.  Or, you can soak the garment in an enzyme product or
oxygen bleach, using the hottest water safe for the fabric. Now,
launder.
   For valuable, non-washable items, you should have them
professionally cleaned as soon as the spot is discovered.  Point out
the stain to the clerk at the cleaners.
 
You can use a dry cleaning solvent to remove crayon stains from   utet.'s       
most upholstery fabrics and other dry-clean-only items.  But, don't
use the solvents on leather, suede or vinyl upholstery.  If you're
not sure if a solvent is safe to use on your dry-clean-only clothes,
check the label.  You can test the solvent on a place that doesn't
show to see if it will harm the fabric.  If the fabric isn't harmed,
sponge the solvent onto the stained area.  Sponge it again if the
stain remains.
   When sponging the solvent on piled fabric, rub in the direction
of the pile.
   If you get crayon stains on vinyl, clean them with a heavy-duty
liquid laundry detergent, or make a paste with dry laundry detergent
and warm water.  If the stain remains, sponge the vinyl with rubbing
alcohol.  But, remember to test alcohol on a place that won't show
before putting it on the vinyl.
   If suede or leather get crayon stains, you shouldn't try to clean
these at home.  Take these items to the cleaners.
   The LSU Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any
products by mentioning them.  There may be other products that will
work equally well.  You may check labels or ask for such products
where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing food stains. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/12/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3507
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3507,
"Removing food stains."
   According to the old saying, "There's many a slip 'twixt the cup
and the lip."  And those slips can result in stains.
   Blot up spills as soon as they occur with a clean, dry cloth or
paper towel.  If you spill moist food onto the carpet, you should
clean it up before it seeps down into the carpet and the carpet
backing.  Scoop up the spill with a spoon, knife or spatula.  Try
not to press the spill into the carpet.
   You should blot the soiled area with a cloth or sponge wrung out
in a quart of water mixed with a teaspoon of liquid dishwashing
detergent and a teaspoon of white vinegar.  Don't wet the carpet
more than necessary, and towel dry the area after cleaning.  You can
cover the area with a padding of paper towels to absorb the
remaining moisture and speed up drying
   For greasy, oily stains that won't dissolve in water, blot the
stained area with a cleaning solvent or spot remover.  You can buy
these at drug stores and grocery stores, or in some carpet and
department stores.  Departments that rent rug equipment often have
carpet spot removers.
   Read container directions and follow them.  Some cleaners can't
be used on foam or rubber.  So, test the spot remover on a place
that won't show before putting it on the stained area.  If it
doesn't appear to harm the carpet or the pad, apply it.  After the
stain is gone, brush the pile lightly.  Don't step on the cleaned
area until it dries.
   If the stain persists, call a professional cleaner.  Some food
and beverage stains contain red coloring and can't be cleaned.
 
For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call   net.'s       
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Food Stains From Upholstered Furniture. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/16/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3508
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3508,
"Removing Food Stains From Upholstered Furniture."
   Knowing what kind of stain you have on your upholstered furniture
is the key to removing the stain.
   A word of caution, though.  Some upholstered fabrics shrink or
their colors bleed when they get wet.  So, always test the cleaning
method on a hidden area before cleaning.  If bleeding or shrinking
occurs, get professional advice.  For example, some velvets can't be
cleaned by home methods.
   But, once you know the kind of stain, many upholstery fabrics can
be cleaned with home methods.
   For hard candy...which is basically sugar and water...scrape off the
candy with a dull knife or rounded spoon.  Sponge the stained area
lightly with a a cloth dampened in cool water.  If this doesn't work,
you should sponge the area with a solution of water and detergent.
   To remove fruit stains, scrape off the pulp.  Next, you blot the
area with a clean cloth and cool water.  Mix clear vinegar with
detergent and water and sponge the stained area, then blot it dry.
You should also rinse the stained area with cool water to remove
traces of vinegar.
   To treat an egg stain, you should remove as much of the egg as
possible with the dull side of a knife.  Sponge the stained area lightly
with a solution of ammonia and cold water.  Note that I said cold
water...not warm or hot water.
 
Stains from dairy products, soft candies such as chocolates, and   ghtlys       
greasy spills require a cleaning solvent.  You can buy solvents at drug
stores and grocery stores, and in some furniture and department
stores.  Among the spot removers you might look for are
Goddard's...spelled G-O-D-D-A-R-D'S...Energine.. .E-N-E-R-G-I-N-E...or
Carbona, that's C-A-R-B-O-N-A.  Lightly sponge the solvent onto the
stained area, then blot with a clean, absorbent cloth.
   Dry cleaning solvents can damage some vinyls.  So, you should wipe
stained areas on vinyl with heavy duty liquid laundry detergent or a
paste made from dry laundry detergent and warm water.  If the stain
remains, sponge with rubbing alcohol.  But, remember to test all
solutions on a hidden area before trying it on the stain.
   To be safe, don't try to remove major stains on suede and leather
upholstery with home methods.
   The LSU Cooperative Extension Service intends no endorsement of
the products mentioned.  There may be other products that will work
equally as well.  You may check labels or ask for such products where
cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Stains Caused by Fruit Juices, Berries, Jam and Jellies. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/16/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3509
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3509,
"Removing Stains Caused by Fruit Juices, Berries, Jam and Jellies."
   The most important rule to remember in treating stains caused by
fruit or fruit juices is never to use soap.  Soap will set the
stain.
   Instead of using soap, you should apply an enzyme pre-soak...such
as Biz to stained areas, or soak the stains in cold water.  Next,
you should work a detergent...such as All or Wisk...into the stain,
then launder the garment, using the bleach recommended for that
fabric.
   If the stain is set, you may need to sponge it with white
vinegar, then work a detergent into the stained area before
laundering.
   For fabrics that can stand it, pour boiling water through the
stain.  You do this by placing the stained area over a bowl and
holding the fabric in place with a rubberband.  You still may see
some discoloration.  Treat that by sponging with lemon juice or a
three percent hydrogen peroxide solution.  Again, launder the
garment, using the right bleach for it.
   The LSU Cooperative Extension Service is not endorsing any
products mentioned.  There may be other products which will work
equally well to remove stains.  You may check labels or ask for such
products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information or suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Gray Dingies in Your Laundry. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/16/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3510
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3510,
"Gray Dingies in Your Laundry."
   If your white laundry has a bad case of the "gray dingies," it might
be caused by a number of things.
   Sometimes the gray dingies are caused by washing white and
colored items together.  Little by little, colored dyes may transfer to
the white items.  The cure...sorting the items you wish to keep white.
If you don't have the time or desire to do this, it might be best not
to buy white items.
   Many items such as underwear, bed linens and towels are now
available in a variety of colors.  If you choose related colors...like
blues and greens, or beiges and tans, for example...you won't have to
sort as much.  This could save you time...and if your piles have been
smaller than a full load, it can save you money.
   Gray dingies can also be caused by not using enough detergent.
Usually it's safe to follow the directions on the detergent container.
But, detergent manufacturers' directions are for washing a "normal"
load of clothes with "average" soil in 16 gallons of water with
"average" hardness.  In hard water, or if the laundry is extremely
dirty, you may have to add extra detergent.  You put in less detergent
if your water is soft, if clothes are just lightly soiled, or if the load
is small.  But, more laundry problems are caused by too little
detergent than by too much.
   Another cause of the gray dingies is overloading the washing
machine's tub or basket.  You've probably had the urge to pack
clothes into the washer basket.  But, when you do this, the clothes
cannot move freely, resulting in poor washing and unremoved soil.  To
estimate the right-sized load, place dry, unfolded clothes in the
washer loosely until it is about three-quarters full.  But, if you're
planning to use the low-water level, load clothes until the washer
basket is less than a third full.
   Non-phosphate detergents...particularly the granular type...can cause
the gray dingies.  If you're using a non-phosphate detergent, use the
hottest water possible and dissolve the detergent in the water before
adding the clothes.  If you have hard water, you might want to add
about a third to a half cup of packaged water softener along with the
detergent.
   Not using hot enough water is a cause of the gray dingies.
Lowering the thermostat on the hot water heater saves energy but can
cause laundry problems.  Water heated to 140 to 150x removes soil
best.
   If the gray dingies have already struck your laundry, here's what
you can do.
   Check labels to be sure fabrics can be washed and bleached.
   Fill the washer with water as hot as possible.  You may even want
to add some boiling water to washer as it is filling if the water
temperature is not very hot.  Add twice as much detergent as you
would normally use.
   Place grayed clothes in washer and agitate for about four minutes
on the regular cycle.
   Stop the washer to add one cup of chlorine bleach diluted in one
quart of water.  If your washer has a bleach dispenser, add the bleach
to the dispenser.  If you don't have a dispenser on your washer, add
the bleach and water solution slowly, so the bleach can mix with
washer water before touching clothes.
   Be careful using bleach.  It helps laundry by disinfecting, removing
soil and whitening fabrics, but it can also remove color, rip, tear or
burn holes in clothes.  Never pour bleach directly on garments.
Always dilute it with at least four parts of water and mix well before
adding to clothes.
   Agitate clothes in the bleach solution for another four minutes.
   Now, stop the washer and let the clothes soak for about 15
minutes.
   Reset the washer so it has about 10 minutes of wash time, then
restart the machine and let it complete the cycle.
   If your clothes still are grayish, repeat the process until they are
white.
   On bright, sunny days, hang white clothes out and let nature's
bleach... the sun...continue the whitening process.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Grease from Fabric. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3511
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3511,
"Removing Grease from Fabric."
   To remove grease stains from washable fabric, pre-treat the stains
with a pre-wash spot remover or a cleaning fluid.  Rub the stain with
detergent.  Launder the garment in warm water, using plenty of
detergent.  Then, rinse it.  Repeat the process if the stain remains.
   For nonwashable items, sponge a dry cleaning solvent on the stain.
You may want to try Energine...spelled E-N-E-R-G-I-N-E...or
Carbona...spelled C-A-R-B-O-N-A...or Renuzit...spelled R-E-N-U-Z-I-T.
Other commercial products may work as well.  Check labels or ask for
these products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   Grease stains on upholstered furniture are common in active
households.  When you're treating these, it's important to pre-test the
fabric for color bleeding and shrinkage.  Try the recommended
cleaning method and solution on a hidden area other than a seam.
For a sure test, allow the fabric to set from one to two hours after
the treatment.  If it bleeds or shrinks, you'll need to ask for
professional advice and help.
   To treat grease stains, remove as much of the stain as possible by
scraping the area with the dull side of a knife.  Then, using a dry
cleaning solvent, sponge the area lightly.  Blot, rather than rub, the
fabric.  Use a clean portion of the cloth as you sponge, so you won't
return grease to the fabric.  Be careful no to soak the fabric with
solvent.  Apply it sparingly.
 
If discoloration from dirt in the grease or oil remains, sponge the   eed       
area with lukewarm detergent and water.  To remove the detergent
solution, sponge the area with a clean cloth that's been dampened with
clear, cold water.  Dry the treated area with an absorbent cloth,
tissue or sponge.  This will keep the liquids used in cleaning from
reaching the filling material.
   For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Mildew from Clothes. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3512
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3512,
"Removing Mildew from Clothes."
   Mildew on clothes is a common problem in the summer when
temperatures and humidity are high.  Mildew leaves a musty odor...it
discolors fabrics and it sometimes causes fabrics to rot.  Molds which
cause mildew are always in the air, but they need moisture to grow.
Items that are left damp or dirty are prime targets for mildew.
Clothes dampened by rain or perspiration should be dried before being
hung in a closet or put into the clothes hamper.
   If your house is moist, leave drawers and cabinets open for several
hours occasionally.  This stirs up the enclosed air and keeps moisture
from accumulating.  To dry out the air in a closet, leave a small
electric light burning continuously for a day or two.  Hang a mildew
inhibitor in an enclosed closet.  Some mothballs and moth cakes
contain mildew inhibitors.
   Store shoes on shelves at the top of the closet rather than on the
floor if you think the situation is right for mildew.
   If mildew has already appeared on clothing or household fabrics,
remove the spots as soon as you discover them.  Mold can weaken
materials.  Begin by brushing off mold outdoors so you don't scatter
mildew spores in the house.  On washable fabrics, pre-treat by rubbing
detergent into the dampened stain.  Then, launder the items in hot
water, detergent and chlorine bleach, if it is safe for the fabric.  If
the stain remains, sponge it with hydrogen peroxide, rinse and launder.
If the item isn't bleach-safe, soak it in an oxygen bleach that is safe
for colors, then wash it.  Take non-washable fabrics to the dry
cleaner and tell them what the stain is.
 
For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the   feed       
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Nail Polish from Fabric and Carpet. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3513
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3513,
"Removing Nail Polish from Fabric and Carpet."
   When you're trying to remove nail polish from fabric, carpeting or
upholstered furniture, you have two problems:  the first one is
removing the polish and the second one is removing the color stain
left in the fibers.
   Both nail polish and polish remover can damage fibers seriously,
especially acetate.  If the spill occurred on fabric or carpets that
contain acetate, you'll need to call a professional cleaner.
   Also, some dyes are not colorfast to polish remover.  So, before
you put polish remover on a fabric, test it by applying a drop or two
in an inconspicuous area.  If there's no damage to the spot, use the
following suggestions to remove the polish.
   If the nail polish is still wet, absorb as much of it as possible on a
dry cloth or tissue.  Be careful not to spread the stain.  Then, go
over the stained area with a nonflammable cleaning solvent.  Apply
solvent with quick, light motions.  Wipe the stained area repeatedly
with a cloth dampened in clear water.
   If the nail polish has hardened, apply polish remover to the stained
area with an eyedropper.  Wait a few minutes for the polish remover
to penetrate and soften the polish.  If necessary, repeat the treatment.
   Here's an alternative for removing hardened nail polish.  First,
using a spoon with a dull edge, scrape off as much polish as possible.
Then, apply polish remover to the stained area and blot the excess.
Go over the stained area with a cloth saturated with nonflammable
cleaning fluid.  Use light, quick motions.  Then, wipe the stained area
with a cloth dampened in clear water.  Don't forget...always pre-test
before you use nail polish remover on any fabric or carpet. 
For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the              
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Perspiration Stains and Odors from Fabric. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3514
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3514,
"Removing Perspiration Stains and Odors from Fabric."
   To remove perspiration stains from a washable fabric, pre-treat the
garment by soaking it in an enzyme pre-soak product.  Then, wash or
sponge the area with a solution of heavy-duty liquid detergent and
water.  You may also treat the discoloration of fresh stains with a
weak solution of colorless, clear ammonia and water.  Treat old stains
with a white vinegar solution.
   If the stain or odor persists, don't put the garment in a dryer and
don't iron it.  Heat will set the stain.  Instead, soak the garment
overnight in a warm salt solution that contains three-fourths
tablespoon of salt for each quart of water.  Then, rinse it.  Treat the
stained area with an all-purpose detergent paste and let it stand for
thirty minutes.  Then, rinse it again.  If the stain still persists, treat
it with a three percent solution of hydrogen peroxide and let it stand
for another fifteen or twenty minutes.  Rinse the garment and launder
it.  Repeat the process if necessary.
   You should take stained, nonwashable clothing to a reliable dry
cleaner.
   For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Rust Stains. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:
Area:

                           Tele-Tip 3515
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3515,
"Removing Rust Stains."
   If you're attempting to remove rust stains from fabric, you may
want to use a commercial rust remover.  They're available where
cleaning supplies are sold.  Be careful to follow the directions on the
package.  Rust removers can burn your skin, so be sure they're rinsed
well from the fabric.
   If rust stains remain in clothing, apply a mixture of salt and lemon
juice to the stained area.  Let the fabric dry in the sun, then rinse it
and repeat the operation.  If the fabric can stand hot water, put it in
a solution of four tablespoons of cream of tartar to one pint of
boiling water.  Let the stained area soak until the stain is gone.
Then rinse it and launder it.  If the garments are made from synthetic
or manmade fibers, they may not withstand the hot water.  Send these
garments to the dry cleaner.
   To remove rust stains from sinks, tubs and tile, soak the area with
vinegar or lemon juice or treat it with a commercial rust remover.
You may also try using a diluted solution of oxalic acid.  You can buy
oxalic acid at most drug stores.  It's poisonous, so wear protective
gloves. To apply oxalic acid solution to the vertical surface under a
faucet, mix the solution with cornmeal, making a thick paste.  Apply
it carefully with water.  Don't let any of it get on the chrome
hardware.
   For more information and suggestions about removing stains, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Smoke Odors and Stains from Fabrics. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  6/7/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3516
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3516,
"Removing Smoke Odors and Stains from Fabrics."
   Families whose homes have caught fire are faced with an almost
impossible task...removing smoke odor and stains from the remaining
clothes and furniture.
   Smoke seeps through crevices, damaging clothes in closets, drawers
and cabinets.  Two kinds of smoke damage may occur...visible deposits
of burned material and odor.
   To reduce odor after a fire, you must remove all evidence of
charred or burned surfaces.  Then, wash surfaces and fabrics well to
remove smoke dust particles.
   Visible and odorous smoke damage on washable apparel can
generally be removed by five launderings. If the items can be
bleached, use a laundry detergent in combination with liquid chlorine
bleach.  Follow directions on packages for the amounts to use for
removing stains.
   Send non-washable items to the dry cleaners or hang them out to
air.  Mask remaining odor with a pleasant perfume or room deodorizer.
Pure vanilla extract can help mask smoke odor effectively.  Place
small portions of vanilla extract in open bowls or dab extract on
cotton balls or toweling and place these near air conditioning and
refrigerator vents.  This will circulate the aroma.
   Some dry cleaners have a process that removes smoke odor.  It's
called an ozone treatment.  Some dry cleaners and cleaning
establishments have portable ozone-generation units which they can
bring to a home or building to treat the air and all the items in the
area.  These are generally effective in removing smoke odor.
   There may be commercial products available to help remove smoke
odors and smoke stains.  Ask for them where cleaning supplies are
sold.
   For more information and suggestions about stain removal, call the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Stain Removal from Carpets and Upholstery. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/8/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 3517
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3517,
"Stain Removal from Carpets and Upholstery."
   The first rule of stain removal is to remove stains promptly after
they occur.  Many spots are hard to remove if the're allowed to "set."
Start by scrapping off any excess stain or blot off liquids with a dry,
clean towel or cloth as quickly as possible.
   Next, pretest the cleaning method you're going to use.  Before you
try any solution on a stain, test it to determine what effect it will
have on the fabric or carpet dyes...but be sure you do your test in an
inconspicuous spot such as on the backside or underside of the chair
cushion or in the corner or behind the drapery area of the carpet.  If
it looks as though the solution doesn't harm the fibers or the dyes of
the fabric...that is, if the colors don't run or bleed or the fabrics
don't shrink...then proceed with removing the stain.  If, on the other
hand, the fabrics do seem to be adversely affected, contact a
professional cleaning service.  Some rayon upholstery fabrics are
susceptible to shrinkage and color bleeding.  Don't use water on these
fabrics...instead use a dry-cleaning fluid.
   New upholstery fabrics sold after 1970 may have a letter code
which indicates the cleaning method that can be used safely.  Check
for the code before you apply cleaning or spot removal materials.
   If the letter, W, is seen, then water and cleaning agents or foam
mixed with water may be used.  If the letter, S, is seen, then use
only dry-cleaning solvents.  Don't use water.  If the letters W-S are
seen then either water-based methods or dry-cleaning solvents may be
used.  If the letter, X, is seen, then don't use any liquid or foam
cleaning agent.  Remove soil by brushing or vacuuming only or refer
the problem to professional cleaners.
   When you use cleaning materials, always apply them sparingly...with
a blotting or patting motion.  Don't soak the fabric with the cleaning
solution.  Dry the area immediately with an absorbent cloth, a tissue
or a sponge to keep the liquids from reaching the filling materials of
cushions or the backing or the pads under carpets.
   Solvent cleaners will soften and destroy natural rubber foam.
Synthetic fillings react less to solvents...but repeated excessive
applications could cause damage.  Be sure you're in a well-ventilated
room whenever you use dry-cleaning solvents.
   Remove greasy and oily stains such as chocolate, ice cream or
lipstick, with a dry-cleaning solvent such as Energine...spelled E-N-E-
R-G-I-N-E, or Carbona...spelled C-A-R-B-O-N-A, or Renuzit...spelled R-
E-N-U-Z-I-T.
   In removing chewing gum, candle wax and adhesive tape, rub them
with ice to harden them...then scrape off as much as you can with
your fingernail or a dull knife.  Then, wipe any remaining stain with
dry-cleaning solvent.
   Egg and blood stains can be sponged with a diluted solution of
ammonia.  Mix three teaspoons of ammonia in one quart of water.  If
the stain has set, sponge it with a three percent hydrogen peroxide
solution...then add a drop of ammonia to the stain on top of the
peroxide. Tap the stain with the back of a spoon.  Repeat the process
if necessary...then blot the area with clear water.
   You should sponge urine stains with white vinegar diluted with
water...then detergent and cool water.  Finally, blot the area with
clear, cool water.
   Mildew stains should be scraped off...then sponged with mild suds
and wiped with alcohol. 
Milk and vomit stains should be sponged first with dry-cleaning                 
solvent, then blotted and dried.  Next, apply a solution made of a
small amount of ammonia, mild detergent and water.
   After you've cleaned upholstery fabrics, brush pile fabrics while
they're still damp...brush against the pile after it has dried.  For
carpets, after wetting the surface during cleaning, place a dry towel
or other absorbent material over the area and weight it down.  If the
absorbent material becomes wet, replace it.  Let it stay on the cleaned
area for eight hours and then
remove it.  Brush the area to blend the pile with the surrounding carpet.
   No endorsement is implied nor discrimination intended by the mention of
commercial products in this program.  There may be other commercial products
available which work equally well in the removal of stains.  Check labels or ask
for such products where cleaning supplies are sold.
   For more information about stain removal, call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Stains from Clothing. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  10/8/82 (Tasker)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 3518
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3518,
"Removing Stains from Clothing."
   The first rule in removing stains is treat the spot promptly.  If
stains are allowed to "set" there is less chance of removing them.  For
washable items which can be laundered in hot water with chlorine
bleach, removal of a majority of stains is relatively simple.  Hot
water, detergent and chlorine bleach will remove most of the common
stains including catsup, chocolate, cocoa, coffee, cosmetics, cream,
crayon, dye, egg, fruit, grass, grease, mildew, mustard and urine...to
name just a few.
   It is, of course, necessary that you remember undiluted chlorine
bleach should never come in direct contact with fabric.  Always dilute
the bleach in at least one quart of water.  Many washers do this
automatically if the bleach dispenser is used correctly.
   Caution:  Liquid chlorine bleach should not be used on wool,
fiberglass, acetate, Spandex, silk or on any garments where the label
warns against its use.  For stains on these fabrics and other washable
fabrics that can't be bleached with chlorine, launder them with a
generous amount of detergent and oxygen bleach or perborate bleach--
ones that say "safe for colors" or "all purpose."
   For blood stains which have set, apply hydrogen peroxide.  You can
get a three percent solution at drug stores.  Add a drop of household
ammonia to the stain on top of the peroxide.  Leave it there.  Then,
repeat the process until the blood stain fades.  Rinse the fabric well
and be sure you work in a well-ventilated area.
 
Pre-treat spots and stains such a fresh paint, tar and asphalt on   llrls or ask
washable fabrics with a dry cleaning solvent or pre-wash product.
Some solvents are flammable and others are poisonous.  Always
observe warnings on product labels.  After pre-treating, launder greasy
stains with very hot water and a generous amount of detergent.
   Don't put the garment in the dryer if the stains remain.  The heat
of the dryer may set the stains.  Instead, repeat the stain removal
process.
   For stains on fabrics that cannot be washed...sponge the stained
area lightly with clear water or club soda.  Then, blot the area dry.
Use a dry cleaning solvent on greasy and oily stains according to the
directions on the package.  Take valuable non-washable items to a
reliable dry cleaners.  And, be sure to point out the stain to them.
   Sometimes you will get a stain and you won't know what type it is
which makes it difficult to know what to do.  In these situations, use
the procedure that I'm about to describe until the stain is removed.
Some of these steps may result in the loss of color...but that may be
what it takes to remove the stain.
   First, soak the stain in cold water for at least twenty minutes.
   Second, work a laundry detergent into the stained area and let stay
there for thirty minutes...then rinse.
   Wash the fabric using a chlorine bleach on white or bleachable
colored cottons, nylons, acrylics, polyesters or linens...use an oxygen
bleach on all other fabrics.  An oxygen bleach is one that's labeled
"all-purpose" or "safe for colors."
   If the stain still remains, rub a laundry detergent into the stain or
treat the area with a special laundry additive designed for pre-soaking
according to package directions.  Soak the fabric from one hour to as
long as over night.
 
This time launder the fabric in hot water using a generous amount   sngrs or ask
of laundry detergent.  Set the washer for a full ten-minute wash and
allow it to go through the complete cycle.  However, for washable
wool and silk articles, and on non-colorfast fabrics, use warm rather
than hot water and agitate it only briefly, if at all.
   If the stain still remains, sponge it with a dry-cleaning solvent
such as Energene...spelled E-N-E-R-G-E-N-E...or Carbona...spelled C-A-
R-B-O-N-A.  If it's necessary, repeat these steps, rinse thoroughly and
launder.
   If the stain still remains, soak in a saltwater solution for two or
three
hours.  Then, rinse the fabric thoroughly and launder.  Don't allow metal
buttons or zippers to come in contact with the saltwater solution because they
may rust or tarnish.
   If the stain still remains, treat it with a rust remover product such as
"Rover Rust Remover," "Putnom Color Remover," or "Whink Rust Stain
Remover."  Be sure you follow the manufactuers' directions.  Rinse well.  Or,
moisten the stained area with a solution of one tablespoon of oxalic acid to one
cup of warm water.  Oxalic acid is available at most drug stores.  CAUTION:
Oxalic acid is highly poisonous.  Use rubber gloves to avoid skin irritation.  Mix
the solution in a plastic or glass container.  Rinse the treated garment
thoroughly to avoid fabric damage.  Never use oxalic acid in the washer.
   If this doesn't work, place oxalic acid crystals directly on the stain,
moisten it with hot water and allow it to stand for a few minutes.  Then, rinse
the fabric thoroughly.  Use warm water on wool, silk and non-colorfast fabrics
because hot water may affect them someway.
 
If, at this point, the stain still remains and the item can be   rfast fabricseM
bleached...mix equal parts of liquid chlorine bleach and water.  Apply the
solution to the stain with an eye dropper.  Large stained areas can be dipped in
the solution.  Repeat the process if necessary and then launder.
CAUTION:  Liquid chlorine bleach should not be used on non-colorfast items,
wool, silk, fiberglass or any garment when the label warns against it.  On these
fabrics, sprinkle oxygen bleach directly on the stain and dip it briefly into hot
water.
   If the stain remains after you've gone through all the steps just
mentioned, then most likely nothing can be done to remove it.
   No endorsement is implied or discrimination is intended by the mention of
commercial products in these recommendations.  There may be other commercial
products available that will work equally well to remove stains.  Please check
labels or ask for such products where cleaning products are sold.
   For more information about stain removal, call the home economist in
your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Urine Stains from Carpets and Upholstery. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:
Area:

                           TeleTip 3519
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3519,
"Removing Urine Stains from Carpets and Upholstery."
   If you have a pet or young child, you're faced with the possibility
of having to remove a urine stain.  All stains can't be removed, nor
will all urine accidents result in a stain.
   Urine removes waste from the body, so the urine content of
animals, for example, will vary widely with age, sex, breed,
temperament, diet and health.  So, a urine stain, is never exactly the
same material and may produce different reactions with fabrics and
fibers at different times.
   Here's a special note about cat urine.  Unless the stain is removed
immediately, there will be little chance of completely eliminating the
odor.
   Most urine stains, however, can be removed if you work on them
within the first couple of hours.  But, if the stain is not completely
removed, a slow reaction of the urine and carpet or fabric dyes may
occur after a time.  In this case, the only way to restore carpet color
is to apply dye.  A professional carpet cleaning person may be able to
re-dye the stained area.  On carpets, one possibility is to cut out and
replace carpet with another matching piece.  If the urine is completely
removed, however, discoloration is generally not a problem.
   To remove urine, blot the excess liquid as quickly as possible with
clean, absorbent materials such as paper towels or cloths.  Sponge the
area with white vinegar diluted with water;  then sponge the area
with detergent and cool water; finally blot the area with clear, cool
water.  Blot the spot as dry as possible with a clean cloth or towel.
 
It's possible to remove the urine from the face of carpet or   towel.eye checkho
upholstery so no stain will develop and still have a problem with the
odor because the urine may have penetrated the padding, cushioning or
underlay.
   If this occurs and there is no way to clean these materials, after
the surface has been cleaned, it may help to disinfect the area by
saturating it with denatured or rubbing alcohol; then rinse with clear,
cool water.  Blot the area as dry as possible.  Place dry, absorbent
material over the wet area and press it to remove moisture.  If the
absorbent material becomes wet, replace it until as much moisture has
been removed as possible.
   For more information about removing stains, call the home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Removing Urine Stains from Clothing and Linens. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:
Area:

                           TeleTip 3520
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3520,
"Removing Urine Stains from Clothing and Linens."
   As with all stain removal, it's important to act quickly with urine
stains.  It's especially important to act quickly because urine may
react with fabric dyes causing discoloration.
   For washable fabrics that can be bleached, presoak them in cold
water for at least thirty minutes.  Launder these fabrics in hot water
using detergent and chlorine bleach according to the directions on the
bleach container.
   For washable, non-bleachable items, sponge the stained area with a
solution of equal parts of household ammonia and water...then launder
the item in warm water and detergent.  Rinse it well.
   For non-washable items, sponge just the stained area with clear
water to which a few drops of ammonia have been added.  Then,
sponge with clear water only.  In an emergency, club soda can be used
to sponge the stained area.  Blot the stained area quickly with a dry
absorbent material.  If the color doesn't change, apply denatured
alcohol or rubbing alcohol with a dampened pad or cloth.  But, be sure
to pre-test the alcohol on an inside seam to be sure it doesn't harm
the fabric.  Sponge again with clear water.  Blot dry with an
absorbent material.
   Take valuable, non-washable items to a reliable dry cleaner as soon
as possible.  Point out the stain and indicate what kind it is.
   For more information about removing stains, call the home
economist in lyour parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension
Service.

-End-
-Title-
Auto Insurance--Buying. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3601
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3601,
"Auto Insurance--Buying."
   Most people know something about automobile insurance, but many
don't understand all parts of an automobile insurance policy.  Six basic
auto insurance coverages are available in Louisiana.  The first two
coverages you need to know about are types of liability insurance.
   Bodily injury liability coverage is designed to provide money to pay
claims against you and for the cost of your legal defense if your car
injures or kills another person.
   Property damage liability provides money to pay claims for damage
by your car to various types of property.  This will also provide
money for your legal fees if you are involved in a lawsuit as a result
of a liability insurance claim.
   Both types of liability protection provide coverage for you and your
car as long as you drive it or it is driven by members of your family
or others who drive with your permission.  This coverage also applies
to you and your immediate family when driving another person's car
with permission.
   Medical payments insurance provided through auto insurance
companies pays for medical expenses resulting from accidental injuries,
regardless of who is at fault.  Medical payments cover you, members
of your family and guests in your car.  Medical payments also would
be made if you were walking or riding a bicycle and were hit by a
car.
   Uninsured motorists protection pays for injuries caused by an
uninsured motorist or by a hit-and-run driver.  It provides no
coverage for any property damage, but provides for your medical
claims and for those of your immediate family and guests in your car.
   Collision insurance pays for damage to your car resulting from a
collision or from a car overturning.  You can collect regardless of who
was at fault in the accident.  If the other driver appears at fault,
however, your insurance company may collect from the other insurance
company.
   Comprehensive physical damage insurance pays for damage when
your car is stolen or damaged by fire, flooding, hail or other perils
such as a rock breaking a windshield.  It doesn't pay for damage done
when you are in a collision.
   For more information about money management and home budgeting,
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Auto Insurance--How Much Do You Need? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3602
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3602,
"Auto Insurance--How Much Do You Need?"
   Because many kinds of automobile insurance are available, each
person must decide what coverage he or she needs.  Consider your
financial responsibility in choosing your policy.  Every driver is
responsible for driving safely and for injuries or damages he or she
causes.  Louisiana's compulsory liability financial responsibility law
says that for you to drive, you must carry liability insurance of at
least 5/10/5.  In the 5/10/5 coverage, the first limit applies to bodily
injury payments per person for each accident; the second limit applies
to the total that can be paid for the injuries of two or more persons
for each accident; the third limit refers to property damage.
   You should consider buying more auto liability insurance than the
5/10/5 required by law.  Insurance experts recommend buying the
highest limits you can afford.  Most recommend nothing less than
$100,000 for any one bodily injury, $300,000 for all bodily injuries and
$25,000 for all physical damages.  The difference in price is small, and
it is well worth the price for the added protection you get.
   If you're involved in an accident, you must prove that you are
insured or that you can pay the damages required by law.  If you
drive an older car, you might consider the cost of collision insurance
compared to the car's value.  If the car has a low resale value, you
may want to drop the collision coverage.  One way to lower your
insurance cost is to take the highest deductible allowed.  This
deductible is the amount you would pay for damages before the
insurance company would begin to help you.  The deductible comes in
specified amounts of $50, $100, $200 or $500.    The more of the
loss you can absorb, the lower the cost of your insurance.  By cutting
the cost of processing small claims, the insurance company can pass
its savings along to you in a lower cost for your insurance.
   You must decide whether you prefer full coverage with a small
deductible and its higher premium or if you want the higher deductible
and a lower premium.
   Before buying auto insurance, talk to several company
representatives.  Ask friends to recommend agents or companies.
Check the yellow pages of the phone book.  Find out about the laws
in Louisiana and decide what coverage is best for you in relation to
your financial situation.
   If your car is older and you are considering a replacement car,
contact your insurance agent to see what the insurance charges will
be.  Do this before making a final decision on the car.  If you are
considering one or more cars, you may want to base your decision to
buy on the cost of insurance coverage.  Repair records of certain cars
have caused insurance companies to set different rates based on the
repair costs of different models.  You may be able to cut insurance
costs by checking with insurance companies before buying a car.
   For more information about money management and home budgeting,
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Coupons Save Money. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3604
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3604, "Coupons Save Money."
   Eighty percent of all shoppers now use coupons when shopping.
Coupons are another way that manufacturers advertise and encourage
the use of their products.  The average coupon is about 18 cents off,
or 15 percent off, the regular price of the product.
   A smart shopper can use coupons to save money.  First, look for
cents-off coupons.  You can find coupons in weekly newspaper
supplements, magazines, on product boxes, on labels, displays or tear-
off pads on the supermarket shelf or bulletin board.  Some may be
mailed to you.
   One good way to save money is to start a coupon swap club to
take advantage of refunds and coupons.  Be a courteous shopper and
tell the clerk at the checkout counter that you have coupons to
redeem.  This gives the checker time to examine the coupons for
expiration dates and any other policies regarding the store's
acceptance of coupons.  Collecting and organizing coupons becomes
easier the longer you do it.  Here are a few steps to follow:
   Clip and sort the coupons according to specific categories:  dairy
foods, meats, pet food, cleaning products, paper products and any
other category that fits your lifestyle.  You may want to use separate
envelopes for each category, or sort your coupons in a small box. If
your shopping list is organized in a similar fashion, you can find your
cents-off coupons quickly before shopping.  As you file coupons, put
those with the earliest expiration dates in front so you won't forget
about them. 
Don't forget that you don't save money by buying an item simply                 
because you have a coupon.  Check your shopping list carefully and
use coupons only for items on the list.
   Make sure the brand-name product for which you have a coupon is
not more expensive--even with the discount--than similar house brands
and generics.  It doesn't make much sense to buy the brand-name item
just to use the coupon.
   Using coupons will save you money only if you follow these simple
rules for careful shopping:

   1.  Always shop with a list of what you plan to buy.
   2.  Avoid impulse buying, and don't buy anything your family will
not use.
   3.  Study papers for store specials before you shop.  Look for
additional specials advertised in the store.
   4.  Check prices carefully.  Don't be misled by end of the aisle
displays.  Always read signs near products.
   5.  If your retailer doubles the face value of your coupons on a
certain day, plan to do your major shopping on that day.
   For more information about the management of your family budget,
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Deflate Inflation. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3605
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3605, "Deflate Inflation."
   Families at all income levels are having trouble buying the things
they want or need.  One way to help fight rising prices and to enjoy
your income is to try new ideas that can help stretch your dollars.
   Here are 12 suggestions for fighting inflation:
   DON'T BUY IT.  Ask yourself if you really need the item.  It it's a
"want" item rather than a "need," ask yourself if there is anything you
want more.  Give yourself a day or two to think about it.  Most items
can wait a day or two; a "last chance" to buy isn't often really a last
chance.  If you have a hard time not buying, stay out of stores, or
when you do shop, take only the money you must have for real needs.
   BORROW.  Sometimes you can borrow an item you need, especially
if it's something you don't need often.  Return borrowed items in good
condition.  Don't forget the library and other public services when you
need to borrow.  Do you have items you're willing to lend?
   SHARE.  Sharing items with our family and friends can save money.
Neighbors can sometimes share the price of something like a bushel of
apples.  Share ideas, recipes and skills with others.  Sharing usually
means that everyone benefits as a result of getting together on an
idea or a project.
   FIND IT FREE.  Free goods and services can really help to stretch
your money.  Tax dollars buy things for the community that everyone
can use.  Parks, playgrounds, community health services and libraries
are among the services available to you without charge.  Use the free
things available to you. 
TRADE.  If you have things in your home that you no longer need                 
or want, you may be able to trade them to others who can use them.
What could you trade with a neighbor or friend for something they
have that you may need or want?
   RENT OR HIRE.  When you need something for a short time, it
may be cheaper to rent it.  What kinds of things can you rent?
Count coin-operated laundries, cars, tools and special occasion
clothing.  Sometimes we can rent things when the cost of buying them
is too high for our budget.
   FIND THE BEST BUY.  Finding the best buy may take time and
energy.  The best buy for you is the item that will serve your needs
best at the lowest possible price.  Finding the best buy may mean
looking in several places:  catalogues, newspapers, calling or going to
two or three different stores.  Sometimes secondhand stores offer the
best buy.  If you know exactly what you need or want, you'll find it
easier to get the best buy.
   SUBSTITUTE.  When you go to buy something, ask yourself if
another item at a lower price will do the job just as well.  Many
products have excellent substitutes, and sometimes the substitute is
better than the original.
   MAKE IT.  Sometimes you can save money by making an item.  The
materials should cost less than the finished product.  Be sure to check
prices before you supply your know-how, labor and time to make
something.  Sometimes it's cheaper to buy an item than it is to pay
for supplies to make it.
   USE COUPONS OR REFUNDS.  Use cents-off coupons from stores
and manufacturers to stretch your dollars.  Save labels and product
packagings and send them in for cash refunds.  Coupons and refund
offers are found in magazines, newspapers and often come in your
mail.
   USE WISELY. Find ways to make your belongings last longer or
keep from spoiling before you use them up.  Treat the things you buy
as you treat your money! 
CARE FOR.  Almost every product you buy needs some kind of                      
care.  Read labels and instruction books that come with items you buy.
Learn to clean and care for the things you own.
   If you would like more information on budgeting and other home
money management matters or if you would like to have a free
pamphlet called "Deflate Inflation--Stretch Your Dollars," call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Door-to-Door Sales. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3606
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3606,
"Door-to-Door Sales."
   Door-to-door sales, or direct selling, is the nation's oldest method
of selling.  To be sure you are buying reputable products from reliable
salespeople, ask some questions before you buy.  If you don't get
satisfactory answers, don't buy.
   When someone rings your doorbell, he or she should tell you what
they have come to discuss.  They should give their name, the
company's name, and the product or service offered.  You should ask
for identification so you can be sure the person is who he says he is.
   When a product is shown, be sure you understand what it will do,
what it won't do, how it works, how to get repairs and where to get
repairs.  Ask questions.  That's the best way to make a smart buy.
Check on the guarantee or warranty.  Find out how long it lasts, what
it covers, and what the company's written policy is on refunds or
exchanges.
   Be sure you know how to reach the salesperson and company after
the sale.  Get the name, address and telephone number of the person
or company.  You may need more information later.  Be sure the sales
contract is clear and complete.  By law, a contract must specify the
terms of the sale.  Don't sign a contract with blank spaces.  Be sure
each line is filled in or marked out before you sign.
   Be sure the finance charge is disclosed fully in an annual
percentage rate term.  Look for incidental charges.  Are they stated
clearly?  Ask for and keep a copy of any contract you sign.  If, after
the salesperson leaves, you decide to cancel the contract, by law you
have three business days in which to cancel any purchase of more
than $25 made in your home.                      The salesperson
must tell you about this right to cancel.  Ask about it and find out
who to contact if you wish to cancel.  Some companies may offer a
longer period for cancellation.  Ask about the company's policy.
   If you aren't satisfied with the product, call the salesperson.  If he
or she cannot resolve the problem, contact the company directly.
Make any cancellations in writing.
   If you are still not satisfied, you may want to contact a local
consumer agency such as the Better Business Bureau or the Governor's
Office of Consumer Protection.
   Shopping for products in the convenience of your home can be
satisfying, but you must be careful to ask the right questions and
make the right decisions.
   For more information about your rights and privileges as a shopper
or for a free pamphlet called "Shopping at Home From Door-to-door
Salesmen," call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Enjoying Your Income. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3607
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3607, "Enjoying Your Income."
   Money is important to all of us.  The less money you have, the
more important money may seen.  But, how you manage the money you
have is even more important.  Because living costs are rising every
year and incomes don't always keep up, you may need to adjust your
spending if you are to maintain a satisfactory lifestyle and enjoy your
income.  Planning your spending gives you a chance to make some
choices.
   Because spending is a family matter, all members of the family need
to be involved in planning how to spend family dollars.  Young people
learn about money management when they are involved in making
family decisions about money.
   Having a plan for spending your money gives you more control.
You can plan ahead and spend without feeling guilty.  By making and
following a spending plan, you are in control and should have money
from payday to payday.  To plan your spending, estimate the amount
of money your family has coming in during a certain time -- a week,
every two weeks, monthly or yearly.  Look at this take-home pay as
the true amount you have to spend.  Your income will include salaries,
interest, social security payments, retirement checks or dividends.  If
wages are seasonal, figure an average of the usual amounts you earn
in a week or month.
   Next, you need to know exactly what and how your family is
spending.  You need a total of each big item so you can see where
you are putting your money.  You may need to look carefully at your
shopping habits.  With living costs rising, it is more necessary than
ever before to get the most from each dollar you spend.  
To see if you're really getting satisfaction from your spending, ask            
yourself this question:  If I had extra money each month, what would
I want to buy?"  A new plan for spending may help you get the things
you really want or need.  Each family member probably wants at least
part of any extra money, but the family as a whole should decide on
how to spend extra money.
   For more information and suggestions about home budgets, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Family Records--What to Keep and For How Long. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3608
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3608,
"Family Records--What to Keep and For How Long."
   You need family records for several reasons:  to prove you own
property, as proof for income and estate taxes, for family finance, and
for measuring your family's financial progress.
   Records cost time and money when you get them--and even more
when you lose or misplace them.
   Every family has three kinds of records:  personal records,
financial records and property records.  Some should be kept
permanently.  Others may be kept for shorter periods.
   Records you should keep permanently are personal records that
pertain to adoption or divorce, education, employment, military service,
health and medical care, marriage, birth or death, funeral or burial
and citizenship.  Keep your social security number and an up-to-date
copy of your will, too.
   Keep insurance records only as long as the policies are in effect.
   Financial records you should keep permanently are:  receipts of
valuable purchases, important contracts and contents of your safe
deposit box.  Those to keep only as long as you need them are:
credit card numbers, installment agreements, bank records, and
investment, budget and expenditure records.
   The Internal Revenue Service says you should keep records at least
four years for income tax purposes.  Some financial advisors
recommend keeping tax records for ten years.
   Property records you should keep permanently are:  deeds,
improvement records for real property, purchase receipts for personal
property, and an up-to-date inventory of personal and household
goods.           As long as you own property, keep such things as
titles, receipts and guarantees for durable goods like automobiles and
equipment.  Keep sales records and guarantees for non-durable goods
like clothing and household items until you are certain the items are
okay.
   Remember:  Family records are important.  Store them in a safe,
convenient place where you can use them.
   For more information about which family records you should keep
or for a free pamphlet called "Your Important Papers--What to Keep
and Where," call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Conserving Water In The Home. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3700
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3700, "Conserving Water In The Home."
   Conserving water in your home is easy.  Simply check for leaks,
install water-saving devices and develop some water management
habits.
   You may not realize it, but leakage accounts for about five to ten
percent of all residential water consumption, and is caused mainly by
worn-out faucet washers and faulty toilet tank valves.
   A steady drip of a leaking faucet can waste as much as twenty
gallons per day.  A more serious type of leak can occur in toilet
tanks, wasting as much as two hundred gallons of water a day.  Since
the leaking water runs from the tank into the bowl, you can't see it
or hear it.  You can check for a toilet leak by removing the tank
cover and placing a few drops of food coloring in the tank,
preferably when the toilet will be unused for several hours.  If the
food coloring seeps into the bowl, your toilet has a leak.
   Correcting these leaks is an easy and inexpensive way to reduce
your water consumption.
        The next step you can take is to buy water-saving devices,
which are usually inexpensive and easy to install.
   Almost half of the water used in your home is used for waste
disposal through the toilet.  Devices are available to reduce the
amount of water used to flush the toilet.
   You can buy toilet tank volume reducers -- improved float
assemblies that allow water level adjustments and signal you when
there is a leak -- or dual flush mechanisms which allow you to select
a small or large flush.
   These water-saving devices do not work equally well in all types of
toilets.  Some are more effective than others.  Do not use a device
that requires you to flush twice.  It could actually increase your water
consumption.
   You may have heard that placing bricks in your toilet tank will
reduce the amount of water in the tank.  However, bricks are not
recommended because they can deteriorate in the water and bricks can
break parts of the toilet if you drop them.
   An alternative to bricks is plastic bottles.  You can put one or
more clean plastic one-quart bottles filled with water and a small
stone or sand in your tank.  By using bottles you can avoid bending
the float arm down which lowers the water level.  Lowering the water
level reduces the force of the flush, resulting in unsatisfactory
cleansing of the bowl.
   If you're installing a new toilet, buy one that uses less water than
the five to seven gallons a conventional toilet uses.
   You can buy an aerator to reduce the flow of water through your
faucet. A thermostat mixing valve or a shutoff valve near the shower
head allows you to turn off the water while lathering -- without
disturbing the temperature adjustment of the shower controls.
   With a shower head flow restriction or controller, you can reduce
by half the amount of water you use per minute.  A restriction
reduces the flow of water by creating smaller openings in the shower
head.  Constant rate devices maintain a steady flow rate regardless of
changes in the water pressure.
   Water can also be conserved by using dishwashers only when
they're full and by buying clothes washers with variable water level
settings.
   By changing a few habits you can conserve even more.  For
example, turn off the water while you're brushing your teeth or
shaving, take a shower instead of a bath, and water your lawn early
in the morning with a sprinkler that does not spray in a mist.
   For more information on conserving water in the home, contact the
home economist of your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Family Records, Storage. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3609
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3609,
"Family Records, Storage."
   You can save time and money by organizing and storing personal
and family papers in a safe place where you can get to them quickly
and easily.
   First, get all papers together and sort them according to how often
you will need them.  How often the paper will be used and its value
will help you decide the best place to store it.  You'll need three
areas of storage:  some form of fireproof and theftproof storage, home
storage and items you should carry with you.
   Fireproof and theftproof storage means a home safe or safe deposit
box.  Here you'll store papers that are hard or expensive to replace.
These include:  adoption papers, auto title and bill of sale, citizenship
papers, debt or credit papers (especially those pertaining to your
home), death certificates, divorce papers, income tax returns and
receipts, inventory of important family papers, inventory of personal
and household goods, investment certificates and government bonds,
important cancelled checks and payment receipts, and important
contracts.  Other items stored here will be:  marriage and birth
certificates, patents and copyrights, record of insurance policies,
property records including deeds, bills of sale, military service records
(including discharge and veteran claim number), social security numbers
and a copy of wills.
   For home storage, use a home business center, desk, file cabinet,
drawer, box or other safe and convenient place for papers that are
used often.  
These might include:  appliance records (including guarantees and               
instructions), auto records, cancelled checks and bank statements, care
instructions for clothing and household furnishings, education records,
employment records, family health records, financial account records
(for farm and business), instructions about funeral or burial plot,
insurance policies, inventory of household goods, list of credit card
numbers and lenders, and personal and family debt records.
   Items you should carry with you in your wallet or purse are:  your
auto insurance card, blood type record, card stating person to be
notified in case of an emergency, cards indicating allergies to medicine
or any special health problems, driver's license, health and accident
insurance cards, identification card and organization membership cards.
   When your papers are sorted, store them in their proper places.  Be
sure to make a list of your papers and where they are stored.
   For more information about storing important records or for a free
pamphlet called "Record of Important Papers," call the home economist
in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Health Insurance--Buying. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3610
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3610,
"Health Insurance--Buying."
   Health insurance lets you budget in advance for unexpected
illnesses and the high costs of medical care.  Every member of a
family should be covered by medical insurance.
   If your employer offers a group medical insurance policy for you
and your family, sign up for this benefit.  It's a good buy whether the
employer pays all premium costs or if you must pay part of them.
Group policies are usually the least expensive in costs per person.
   If your employer doesn't provide health insurance, try to join a
group that does.  Cooperatives, trade unions and other private
organizations may have policies available.  If you leave a job for any
reason, and lose medical benefits, arrange for coverage until you join
another group.
   It's hard to anticipate your needs for medical care, so buy the
broadest policy you can afford.  Be sure you're covered for accidents
and illnesses, also outpatient and hospital care.  Other desirable
benefits for some individuals include:  prescription drugs, diagnostic
tests, dental care, private duty nursing and skilled nursing home care.
   Choose a policy that pays on the basis of services performed, or a
stated percentage of the costs, rather than a specified amount for
different services.  Although a specified amount for a particular
procedure may seem adequate when the policy starts, costs could have
increased greatly by the time you need it. 
Compare the costs of several policies offering the same coverage.               
Rates are not the same.  Look for the "loss ratio" of a company
before you buy.  This indicates how much in claims policy holders
have received from premiums they paid in.
   Read policies carefully for waiting periods, pre-existing conditions
and other exclusions.  Avoid restrictive policies.  Be sure you
understand all terms used.  Ask the insurance representative to explain
terms in simple language.  Make sure you understand the terms for
renewal and the conditions for changing premium rates.
   Choose a policy from a company that is financially sound.  Best's
Insurance Reports, available at most public libraries, can give you this
information.  The Louisiana State Department of Insurance can answer
questions about a company, its reputation and record of servicing
claims of customers.  Be careful about buying health insurance from
mail order insurance companies.
   Review your insurance coverage periodically to make sure it still
meets your needs.
   For more information about money management and home budgeting,
call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Health Insurance--How Much Do You Need? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  4/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3611
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3611,
"Health Insurance--How Much Do You Need?"
   Your most urgent health insurance need is for basic medical
protection for each member of your family.  This protection provides
benefits for hospital care, including daily room and board, routine
nursing care and minor medical supplies.  It covers costs for a
portion of most surgical procedures and doctors' visits in the
hospital, as well as some other services such as laboratory tests and
x-rays, anesthesia and use of the operating room.  Some outpatient
care may be included in this policy, too.  If you are in your
childbearing years, you need a policy that will cover routine costs for
delivery of a child and pre-natal and post-natal care.
   If you can afford it, get major medical coverage.  It provides
protection against the bills of serious and prolonged illness, and offers
broader coverage than your basic plan.
   A catastrophic policy is the third level of protection.  It is the
most expensive and provides the most benefits.  Most families of
moderate means have other uses for the money needed for these high
premiums.  Avoid policies which cover only one or a few major
illnesses, such as cancer.
   If your employer provides a good medical insurance policy, you may
not need a second policy--especially if the company policy includes a
major medical clause.
   If your company policy is a group policy and you buy another
group policy, the two companies will coordinate benefits so that more
of the costs will be reimbursed.  But you won't get more than the
total medical charges, and you may learn you have paid needlessly for
a second policy.                                 Group policies won't
coordinate benefits with individual policies, and since you pay a lot
more for individual policies, you might not come out ahead.
   A disability income protection plan is desirable for major
breadwinners in your family.  Before considering a policy of this type,
determine the sick leave policies of your employer and other
alternatives for interim income.
   Financial advisors say you should have from three to six months
income in savings.  This sum could help your family during your
serious illness or accident.  If you are injured on the job, you may
receive income from Workmen's Compensation.
   Retired persons should have a good health insurance policy.  If you
are on Social Security, sign up for Parts A and B of Medicare.  This
will take care of most of your medical care and hospitalization.  But,
there are gaps in Medicare, so you need an additional policy designed
to cover these gaps.  Some organizations offer such policies at group
rates, and you can get similar policies from most health insurance
companies.  Check them carefully.
   If you don't qualify for Social Security, or if you retire before you
are eligible for Medicare, shop around for a good medical insurance
policy.  Try to get a group plan.  As soon as you are eligible, switch
to Medicare coverage.
   For more information and suggestions about insurance, contact the
home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Homeowners Insurance:  How Much do You Need? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3613
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3613, "Homeowners Insurance:  How Much do You Need?"
   Statistics show that about 70 percent of the population carries
enough homeowners insurance, and about 30 percent of the population
carries too little.  Market values of houses have increased dramatically
in recent years, as have the costs of construction.  If you don't have
enough homeowners insurance you may not be able to replace your
home if it's destroyed by fire.
   There are four basic types of homeowners insurance:  HO1, HO2,
HO3 and HO4.  The HO1 is a stripped-down policy covering fire,
lightning, windstorms, hail, explosion, rot, civil commotion, aircraft-
vehicle theft, breakage of glass or safety glazing materials, smoke,
vandalism and malicious mischief.  As you move up to Homeowners 2,
you get coverage from falling objects, such as a tree falling on your
house.  HO3 adds such things as the weight of ice, snow or sleet on
your roof, as well as the collapse of a building.  Homeowners 3 also
covers frozen pipes that burst and cause water damage.  If you have
HO4, all perils coverage, it covers everything except moving land and
water, war, nuclear hazards and the like.  If you are in an area which
is subject to high water, you should buy a special flood insurance
policy from the federal government.
   An all perils, or all risk, coverage usually costs about 40 percent
more than the stripped down contract, but it does give you far greater
protection.  These policies also offer protection if something of yours
is stolen while you are traveling.  Under most homeowners policies,
college students away from home and their belongings are protected. 
Some policies let you cover the replacement cost of the building                
and its contents.  Under terms of the replacement policy, if you
insure for value, the home or its contents will be replaced as close to
the original as possible.  Replacement insurance costs only a little
more a year.
   For full coverage of partial damage, you must insure for at least 80
percent of the value of the home.  You won't receive dollar for dollar
coverage for even a partial loss unless you are insured for at least 80
percent of the value.  Many people think that if they buy $50,000
worth of insurance and have a $25,000 loss on a $75,000 house that
they will receive the full $25,000.  This isn't true.  You have about 75
percent covered, and you will get only 75 percent of the damage minus
a certain amount for depreciation of contents.
   Replacement cost coverage on the house alone doesn't cover
replacement cost for the contents.  You can buy replacement cost
insurance for the contents under a separate policy.  Under standard
policies, the replacement of an article is based on its useful life.  This
means that after a few years, the replacement value may be zero.
Most contents insurance is equal to 40 percent to 50 percent of the
building's insurance value.  So, if you have $l00,000 worth of insurance
on your home, you have about $50,000 worth of coverage on its
contents.
   Because extremely valuable items may not be covered up to the full
amount of their value in a standard policy, you may need to add a
separate silver and jewelry floater.
   Liability is another consideration.  Most standard contracts offer
$25,000 liability.  In today's economy, that isn't much.  It's generally
recommended that at least $100,000 worth of liability be carried.
There's a small extra charge.  And, for just a little bit more, you can
get $300,000. 
Renters and condominium policies are available, too.  Renters                   
insurance covers only the contents, not the building.  Condominium
owners insurance covers everything inside the four walls of the
apartment.  The structure itself is usually covered under a master
insurance contract bought by the condominium association.
   Evaluate your homeowners insurance every three years and, if
possible, add an inflation endorsement rider to your standard policy.
This way, the cost of homeownership is added to your policy each
year when the premium is due, and you can be sure you'll have enough
coverage if your home is damaged and must be replaced.
   For more information and suggestions about homeowners insurance, call
the home economist or county agent in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
How to Buy an Appliance. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3614
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3614, "How to Buy an Appliance."
   Many brands and kinds of major and small appliances are on the
market today, but before you make a purchase, ask yourself if you
really need the appliance.  Some are bought because of the novelty
they provide as much as for the functions they perform.  Sometimes a
new appliance doesn't really save time or energy because the setting
up and cleaning up take so much time.
   Some features on appliances save time and energy, and some add
convenience but use more energy.  Sometimes extra features are used
seldom once the novelty wears off, so you might not want to pay
extra for these features.  Often the basic appliance unit is the same
for several brands, but the price increases as the number of added
features increases.  This is especially true on major appliances, so if
you want to save money, don't buy more features than you really
need.
   Before you buy, consider where the appliance will be stored and
where it will be used.  Sometimes storage creates a problem that
outweighs benefits.  Be sure the place where you'll use it is wired
adequately and that there's an outlet available.  Don't plan to use
extension cords unless it's absolutely necessary because they reduce
efficiency and may be dangerous.
   Another important decision -- once you've decided you really need
the appliance and that you have room for it -- is cost.  Be sure to
consider the original price tag plus any installation costs as well as
operating and maintenance costs.  High operating costs may make
energy-efficient models worth the initial higher price.  For example:
Some new models of refrigerators and freezers are 50 percent more
energy efficient than models 10 years old.  Check the yellow and
black Energy Guide Levels on most major appliances for energy
information.     If you plan to spread out payments, check the cost
of credit.  If you can anticipate buying an appliance, try to save a
little each month so you can pay cash and avoid the cost of
installment buying.  You may even get a lower price if you can pay
cash.  Anticipating your purchase will also give you time to get the
information you need to buy wisely.  If you know you'll be buying a
major appliance, start reading advertisements, consumer magazines and
buying guides available at your local library.  Ask friends and relatives
about the models they have and which features they use or don't use.
   For large appliances, in particular, service may be important.  If
you are gone during the day, you'll need a reliable service person who
makes calls after hours or on weekends.
   Some appliances have a warranty or guarantee, but the terms vary.
Be sure to take time to read the written guarantee, and don't just
take the word of the salesman.  When you buy, fill out and keep the
warranty cards.  Look for safety seals and seals of approval.  The U L
seal (Underwriters' Laboratory) is probably the best known safety seal.
Another seal, a blue star emblem, may be found on gas appliances.  It
means that the design and construction meet safety and performance
standards of the American Gas Association Laboratories.
   Some magazines and other groups have seals of approval, too, but
they vary in their worth to the consumer.  Don't assume that a seal
assures quality.  For the most part, appliances on the market do what
they are designed to do.  Your choice of brand and price will depend
on personal preference and individual need rather than actual
differences in function and quality.
   For more information about choosing appliances for your home, call
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Ordering Merchandise by Mail. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  8/12/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 3616
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3616,
"Ordering Merchandise by Mail."
   Most reputable mail order firms are eager to give you good service
because they appreciate your business and want you to order from
them again.  But, aside from their willingness to satisfy, mail order
firms are regulated by the Federal Trade Commission.  One of the
regulations under which mail order houses operate is the so-called
thirty-day rule.
   Here's how the thirty-day rule affects you.  If the seller knows he
can't fill an order within thirty days, he must say so in his
advertisements.  If he's unable to fill the order within thirty days, he
must notify you of your right to a refund.
   If you want a refund, you must notify the seller.  But, if the seller
notifies you that he can't fill the order within thirty days and you
don't respond, he then has sixty days to fill the order.  If sixty days
pass and the seller still hasn't filled the order, he must give you the
choice of getting a full refund or waiting longer.
   If you don't respond when you're given this choice, the seller is
required to refund your money.  You can give the seller any number
of thirty-day extensions...but once the third extension is granted, you
may ask for a refund at any time.
   The Federal Trade Commission rule doesn't apply to services like
mail order photo finishing, magazine subscriptions, plants, seeds,
orders mailed "Collect on Delivery," and credit orders where the
buyer's account isn't charged before shipment.
 
If you have trouble with a mail order firm, try to work out the   e yours       
problem with the firm.  If you fail to work it out to your satisfaction,
notify the Federal Trade Commission, or the Louisiana governor's
Office of Consumer Protection or the U.S. Postal Service.
   If you would like more information about your rights as a consumer
or if you would like some help with your family budget, call the
county agent or home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Planned Spending Buys More. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3617
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3617, "Planned Spending Buys More."
   Planned spending helps you get more for your money, and since
most of us have more needs than we have money, a spending plan can
help us see each purchase in relation to all the other ways we could
spend our money now and in the future.  Planned spending can help
you take advantage of sales, and it can help reduce credit and
installment costs.
   Planned spending means figuring out where you stand right now.
First, make a list of your income--including your paycheck, social
security or pension.  Now look at your spendable income after taxes,
your take-home pay.  This is the part you can spend or save.
   Next, list your fixed expenses:  mortgage, insurance, installment
payments, income taxes, property taxes and any other expenses that
are due once a month or once a year.  Add these up and divide the
total of your fixed expenses by the number of paychecks you receive.
Then you'll know how much to set aside each pay period.
   For example, if you get money each month, divide the total by 12.
If you are paid weekly, divide by 52.  This is the amount you'll have
to set aside each pay period to meet your fixed expenses.  Subtract
this amount from the amount of money you have coming in.  The
money left is the money you can make decisions about.  It is the
money you have to spend over the pay period on food, transportation,
utilities and other flexible expenses.  Try to divide the money among
the items you generally spend money on.  Try to plan so these
expenses don't take everything that's left. 
Set aside a few dollars each pay period for things you'd like to                
have.  List the things you want now and those you want in the future.
Find out how much each will cost and think about how you will save.
Include all family members in the discussion.
   You and your family probably have some ideas about what you want
now and in the future.  You may want clothes, a piece of furniture or
a television set in the near future.  Long-range goals may include
education for the children, a home or a family trip.  It helps if you
write your goals on paper.  List first those things you want most.
Decide how many of the items you want enough to set aside an
amount each month in order to get them.  Add what these items cost
and again divide the total by the number of paychecks you receive.
The answer is the amount you'll need to set aside each month.
Subtract this from your paycheck also.  Make sure the amount adds up
to no more than you have left to spend.  This is your financial plan.
   There isn't an ideal way to plan spending for everyone.  Each
person or family is unique, with different income, needs and goals.
Also, spending plans must be flexible enough to adjust to changes
which may occur in your life and in the economy.  But having a plan
helps you to ask before you spend:  "Is this the best use of my
money?"
   For more information on managing your household budget, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Safe Debt Load. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3618
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3618, "Safe Debt Load."
   Your debt load is the amount of your take-home pay that goes to
pay off creditors each month after you pay your rent or mortgage
payment.  Ten percent of your take-home pay is considered a
comfortable debt load.  Fifteen percent is thought to be manageable,
but anything approaching twenty percent is a sign you're getting deep
in debt.
   Another rule of thumb for deciding if you're overextended is to
figure your income and, excepting rent or mortgage, determine if you
can pay off your other borrowing comfortably in one year.  If so, you
are probably carrying a safe debt load.
   It's easy to know if your debt load is too heavy.  Here are some
signs you should look for:  you find it harder each month to make
ends meet.  Another sign is that you rely on overtime pay or
moonlighting to pay your bills.  Another sign of too much credit is
when you pay only the minimum on your charge accounts and
sometimes juggle payments, stalling one creditor to pay another.  One
other sign is when you struggle to save even small amounts and don't
have enough money saved to get you through emergencies such as a
cut in pay or repairs on appliances or cars.
   Credit can be a real asset or a detriment.  How you use credit
determines which it will be.  The following credit guidelines can help
you manage your money.
   Always decide how you will pay for an item before you buy it.
Don't use credit if it means you will still be paying for the item long
after it is used up or gone.  Remember:  credit costs money.  Ask
yourself if you would buy the item if you had to pay cash for it
instead of putting it on credit.
 
Always use comparison shopping and get the best buy for your   tkm long         
money.  Don't be a soft touch for sales people.  Credit is easily
available, and businesses urge people to use credit because people who
use credit may spend more.
   Buy only if you have a real need for the item.  Try to use credit
only for items that will increase in value after you pay for them.
Credit always costs more than paying cash, even in stores that offer
no-interest accounts, because prices may be slightly higher.  Credit is
more expensive now than it used to be, so shop carefully and use
credit only when necessary.
   Even if you're getting along fine now, don't take on additional
debts without calculating your ability to repay them.  If your mortgage
or rent payment takes more than twenty-five percent of your pay, a
debt load of twenty percent is probably too much.
   For more information and suggestions about home budgets, call the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Sales Calendar. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3619
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3619, "Sales Calendar."
   Throughout the year, certain items routinely go on sale.  A thrifty
shopper plans ahead, if possible, and buys needed items when they go
on sale.  Seasonal sales may vary from one location to another, and
they may be influenced by supply and demand, but in general the
following list of items will give you some idea of good buys in a given
month.
   January:  January's sale items include Christmas trimmings, cards
and paper; appliances; bicycles; china and glassware; carpets and rugs;
TV sets, radios and stereos; and white sale items like blankets, sheets,
linens and towels.
   February:  In February, look for sales on Washington's and
Lincoln's birthdays and for Mardi Gras sales.  Other good buys may
include furniture, sportswear, used cars, curtains and drapes.
   March:  Featured sale items in March are luggage, ski equipment,
washing machines and clothes dryers, and spring and Easter specials.
   April:  Men's and boys' suits are good buys in April.  Other sale
items may include kitchen ranges, sleepwear, lingerie, home
improvement materials and after-Easter clothing specials.
   May:  In May, look for sales around Mother's Day and Memorial
Day.  TVs and tires may be on sale also.
   June:  June will have Father's Day specials and sales on building
supplies, fabrics, typewriters and hosiery.
   July:  Air conditioners, refrigerators and freezers are often good
buys in July.  Summer clothes, swimwear and Fourth of July sales
should be checked out.                           August:  August
buys might include current year cars, camping equipment, summer
clothing, furniture, coats and furs, lamps and houseware items.  Look
for white sales and back-to-school specials, too.
   September:  Current year cars are a good buy in September, too, as
are car batteries and accessories.  Fabrics and fall fashions may be on
sale also.
   October:  Columbus Day and Veterans' Day sales are held in
October.  Fall and winter sportswear and other fall fashions may be
good buys in October.
   November:  In November, look for Thanksgiving Day specials and
sales on used cars, women's dresses and coats, men's and boys' suits
and shirts, and children's clothes.
   December:  December's good buys may include women's coats and
shoes, men's shoes and end of the month sales on Christmas cards,
decorations and wrapping.
   These monthly suggestions will give you some idea of what to look
for, but check local advertisements for specific best buys in your area.

   For more information and suggestions about reducing your
household expenses and managing your budget, call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Selecting an Apartment. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3620
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3620, "Selecting an Apartment."
   The first things you'll want to consider when you're looking for an
apartment are rent, costs of utilities and location.  You'll also need to
consider the design of the apartment since this can influence how long
you'll be satisfied with it.
   The number of bedrooms and the sizes of the bedrooms are
important, but only you know how much room you need.  Both the
number and the size of bedrooms will affect the amount of the rent.
   An apartment with two floors may seem more like a house because
there is more privacy when bedrooms are separated from the rest of
the apartment.  Entrances are usually private, and there may be more
than one entrance to a two-floor apartment.  One-floor apartment are
better for families who need to avoid climbing stairs or who prefer to
avoid frequent trips up and down stairs.
   The location of the apartment in the building or within the
complex can influence your satisfaction.  If you have young children,
you may prefer a ground floor location so your children may play
outdoors where you can see them.  An all-adult household may not
want to be near a play area or pool because of the noise.
   An apartment located between two others and on a lower floor may
have lower utility costs than an apartment located on an end of the
building or on top of the building.  The local utility company may be
able to tell you about the average bills for a particular address for
the preceding year so you'll have an idea about expenses. 
Some families, especially those with children, may want a dining                
area in the kitchen where the floor surface is easier to clean.  Others
want a separate dining room or a living-dining room combination.
   These suggestions may be helpful when you start looking for an
apartment:
   Try to see the apartment when it is furnished.  An empty
apartment looks deceivingly large.
   Take a tape measure with you and jot down measurements.  Notice
where windows and doors are located.  Make a sketch of the floor
plan and try to fit your furniture in different possible locations on
your drawing.  Be sure your furniture will fit the rooms and that it
will fit through the doors when you're moving in.
   Check closet space, other storage space and the kitchen counter.
   If there's only one bathroom, be sure it will accommodate your
family.
   Check the entry for size and location.  It should be convenient,
attractive and safe.
   Large windows with a pleasant view can add to your enjoyment,
but they may increase your utility bills and lessen your privacy.
   Try to visit the apartment in the evening or on a weekend when
most people will be home so you'll have an idea of how much sound is
transmitted between apartment.
   Ask the rental agent for details on wall and floor finishes.
   A balcony or patio is pleasant for outdoor cooking, growing plants
and relaxing, but its usefulness is limited if there is no privacy.  A
balcony can be hazardous if you have small children. 
Check the appliances to see if they meet your needs.  A                         
dishwasher, a clothes washer and dryer are important to some families.
Ask the rental agent about the hot water heater and how many
families it serves.  Turn on taps in the kitchen and the bathroom to
test water pressure.
   Check management policies carefully.  Read the lease before you
sign it.  Find out what is and what is not permitted and what the
management will or will not do.  Find out about painting of rooms;
hanging pictures; maintenance of grounds and other public spaces such
as laundry rooms; garbage collection; and the policy on pets.  Try to
talk with someone who lives in the building or complex.  If you have
children, visit the play area and talk with other parents.
   Getting settled in a new home takes time, planning and work as well as
money.  Pay attention to details beforehand and your satisfaction should be
increased after you move in.
   You can get more information about what to look for when you're looking
for a house or an apartment from the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Shopping for Credit. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3621
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3621,
"Shopping for Credit."
   When you shop for credit, look for the least expensive plan you
can get.  Select one you can pay off in a reasonable length of time
without straining the family budget too much.
   To compare costs for credit, first look at the A-P-R.  This is the
annual percentage rate, or the cost--in dollars--of one hundred dollars
if you borrow it for one year.  Federal law requires that all credit
contracts include the term "Annual Percentage Rate" in large print.
This number--a percentage--must be filled in on the contract before
you sign it.  The term A-P-R must be used in any public advertising
of credit terms.  It can be as low as 12 or 14 percent of what you
borrow or as high as 36 percent.
   Another term required by law to be in large print on installment
loan contracts is the "Total Finance Charge."  This is the total
amount, in dollars, you can expect to pay over the length of the
credit contract.  It might include the cost of checking your credit
record and credit insurance.
   Know what other items you are expected to pay for besides the
amount borrowed and the interest.  Credit life insurance is not
required by law, but it can be required by a lender.
   Because the amount of interest you pay for a loan depends on the
length of time you use that credit, you'll save money by paying off
the loan as soon as you can.  Look for a plan that lets you pay off
the loan as soon as you can, but doesn't penalize you for paying off
early.
   When you set up an installment plan, be realistic about the amount
you can pay each period.  Don't make payments so large that you
create financial pressure on the family budget.  If you use a credit
card, the annual percentage rate will be applied to your monthly
balance at 1 1/2 percent a month for your purchases.  A similar
amount can be for cash borrowed with the card.
   Interest will be less if the monthly interest rate is charged on the
balance after current payments are deducted.  Some creditors charge
interest on your balance before current payments are made, and others
charge on the average daily balance owed.  If your plan charges on
the average daily balance, you will pay less interest if you make
payments as soon as you can and keep the daily balance as low as
possible.
   For more information about money management and home budgeting
or for a free pamphlet called "Credit Cards--30 Days to Reality," call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.
                               
-End-
-Title-
Small Claims Courts. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3622
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3622, "Small Claims Courts."
   If you have a problem involving a relatively small sum of money,
small claims court may be able to help you solve it without hiring a
lawyer.  Small claims courts are courts of limited authority which use
simplified procedures so that a citizen can sue by stating his or her
position to the Clerk of Court or by mailing a letter to the clerk of
court.  This allows you to sue on your own behalf.  Of course you
may still want to ask a lawyer to file suit for you in a small claims
court.
   Suits must be filed in the court with jurisdiction in the area where
the person or firm you want to sue lives or does business.  To locate
the court, call the clerk of court or justice of the peace where the
person you are suing lives.  At this time, ask for the filing fee,
usually a small amount.  Court costs are usually, but not always,
assessed against the losing party, so if you file suit and accept an
out-of-court settlement and drop the suit, you'll have to pay the
court costs.
   If you're preparing to sue, keep all notes, messages, bills, receipts,
contracts, leases and papers that may become evidence to support your
claim.  Sometimes you can get the potential defendant to correct or
repair the damage before you sue.  One way to do this is to send a
letter by registered mail demanding that he take immediate action to
repair or correct the matter.  Keep a copy of this letter, because it
may be useful later in court to show that you made a good faith
attempt to get the defendant to repair the injury he caused.  If you
think the defendant will leave the area if he finds you might sue, just
file suit and let the "service of process" by the court be his notice
that he is being sued. 
At the trial, there is no jury.  The judge or justice of the peace              
will try the case and decide who wins and how much money, if any,
will be awarded. The procedure is usually informal.
   Go to the court at the time you are told to appear, wait for the
clerk to call your case, then enter the court or the judge's chambers
where the trial is to be held.  You present your case first, then the
person you are suing will present his.  You may be allowed to present
evidence to disprove the case of the person or firm you are suing.
   The judge won't expect you to act like Perry Mason.  Just tell
your side of the story in a straightforward manner.  Explain why you
think that the defendant owes you money or why the firm has failed
to live up to its commitment.  Bring your evidence and witnesses if
you have any.  If you win, the judgment of the court becomes a legal
obligation but you may have to take further action to collect.  The
defendant can also appeal, and you would have to wait for this
decision before trying to collect.
   For information on a wide range of subjects within the areas of
horticulture and home economics, call the home economist in your
parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
-End-
-Title-
Teaching Children to Use Money. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  8/5/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 3623
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 3623,
"Teaching Children to Use Money."
   Today everyone spends more money to live and families depend on
money more than ever before.  Because family finances are becoming
more and more complicated, even young children should learn
something about money management.
   Regardless of your child's age, you are the primary teacher about
money matters.  Your attitude will influence the attitudes of your
children.  Whatever significance money has to you...as a parent--
whether it's anxiety or pleasure--your children will pick up on it.
Conveying healthy attitudes about money requires an example of using
money without heavy emotional attachments.  Unfortunately, money is
used in families as a symbol of love, power or approval.
   Teaching money management to children can be fun. The experience
can benefit the relationship between parent and child, too.  If you
gear your money management lessons to the child's needs, interests,
abilities and level of understanding, you'll be successful in teaching
money concepts.  Children can learn new concepts about money and
spending if they're taught by the use of examples, reintroduced on
different occasions and in different situations, and if they're allowed
to practice the concepts.
   Here are some of the most important basic concepts of money and
its use:
   --Money or its substitutes such as credit cards are only a medium
of exchange.  We exchange money for goods and services.
   --We must learn to spend before we can learn to save.  Let your
child pay for items in the store.
   --Savings is just deferred spending.  We usually save for a specific
purpose or item.  Let your child learn to save for something he really
wants, something that doesn't require too long a savings time.
   --Money resources are nearly always limited.  Teach your child how
to choose with his limited funds from among all the many things he or
she wants.
   Most family economists and child development experts believe that
allowances geared to the age and needs of a child can help him learn
to make decisions and how to manage money at an early age.
   For more information and suggestions about managing your family's
money, call the home economist in your parish office of the LSU
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
What is Inflation? 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3624
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3624, "What is Inflation?"
   Inflation is defined as a sustained or long-term tendency for prices
of goods and services to rise.  Not all price increases are inflationary,
however.  Prices may rise in the short term because of a change in
the supply and demand.  For example, there may be an abundant
harvest of a particular crop one year because of excellent growing
conditions and the next year may be a poor year for the same crop.
This situation may cause prices to change, but the changes may even
out over a period of time and not be inflationary.
   To most people, inflation means that over a period of time, their
dollars buy less.  We feel the effects of a shrinking dollar when our
incomes fail to keep pace with the rise in prices.
   The rule of 72 is a convenient means of measuring the impact of
inflation.  Simply divide the inflation rate into 72 to find out how
long it will take a dollar to be worth half its present value in terms
of real purchasing power.  For example:  An inflation rate of 12
percent means that the worth of each dollar will be reduced to 50
cents in only 6 years.  Even a 6 percent inflation rate halves the
purchasing power of each dollar every 12 years.
   Many people associate inflation with everything bad that is
happening to themselves and the economy.  In this case, inflation
affects morale, our confidence in ourselves and our attitudes toward
others.  These attitudes are often in conflict.
 
For instance:  As a worker, you may want to receive higher wages   dmsry,       
but at the same time want to buy goods and services at low prices.
Those who produce the goods and services you want to buy at low
prices want just the opposite -- high prices for their products.
   The push to get more and contribute less may be reflected in a
lowered worker productivity.  This adds to inflation.  Unproductive
workers don't help our economy compete with countries that are more
productive.  As a worker, you can fight inflation by being the best
worker that you can be.  As a consumer, you can cope with inflation
by looking for ways to reduce your spending.
   For more information about inflation call TeleTips and ask for
program number 3605, "Deflate Inflation," or call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Where to Get Consumer Information. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3625
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3625, "Where to Get Consumer Information."
   Government agencies are limited in what they can do to protect
the public.  It's up to each consumer to take the responsibility for
being informed and for shopping carefully.
   To help consumers, the United States Government Printing Office
publishes a Consumers Information Catalog four times each year.  The
catalog lists booklets from almost 30 federal agencies on topics such
as how to save money, health care, or the cost of owning and
operating a car.  Many of the booklets are free, but there is a user
fee of one dollar for processing an order of two or more free titles.
You can order the Consumers Information Catalog from The Consumer
Information Center, Pueblo, Colorado 81009.  Check with your library
for magazines and other publications containing consumer information.
   Ask your neighbors, co-workers and relatives about similar
purchases they may have made.  Ask them about features they liked or
disliked and ask them about experiences they have had with various
dealers.  Compare stores, catalogs and agencies.  Shop at least two or
three places, or talk to two or three salesmen before you buy, if
possible.  Ask questions and compare prices.  Look for a business or
salesman with a good reputation.
   Many companies or agencies have written information promoting
their products and services.  Take time to read it, and pay careful
attention to warranties before you buy.  A warranty will tell you what
the manufacturer will do for you if something goes wrong with the
product or service. 
Many companies have established offices or divisions of consumer                
information to help customers.  Some have toll-free 800 numbers that
consumers can call for information.  The toll-free number may be
listed on the label or package of the product.  Also, the telephone
company has a list of 800 numbers.  Dial 1-800-555-1212 to use this
directory service.
   The Better Business Bureau is another source of help for
consumers.  These non-profit organizations are sponsored by private
businesses.  They offer a variety of services.  Better Business Bureaus
do not judge or rate individual products or brands, and they do not
handle complaints about the prices of goods and services.  They do
not give legal advice either.
   Here's what the Better Business Bureaus can do:  They can give
general information on products and services, reliability reports and
background information on local businesses and organizations.  They
may or may not tell you the nature of a complaint, but they will tell
you if a complaint has been registered.  In New Orleans, the Better
Business Bureau is located at 301 Camp Street, Suite 403.  The phone
number is 504-581-6222.
   Before you buy, analyze your needs.  For the most part, products
on the market do what they are designed to do.  Your choice of brand
and price will probably depend on your personal preference and your
individual need rather than on actual differences in function and
quality among various products.
   If something goes wrong with a product, the first thing you need
to do is to go back to the point of purchase and discuss the matter
calmly.  Always keep sales receipts so that you have a record of your
purchase.  If the salesperson isn't helpful, ask for the manager or
supervisor.  Repeat your complaint.  About 88 percent of all consumer
complaints are resolved at this level.  Chances are, yours will be, too.
   If you are not satisfied, write a letter to the company if the
product is a national brand or the company operates nationwide.  Keep
a copy for your records.  If the company fails to respond
satisfactorily to your complaint, call the Governor's Office of
Consumer Protection.  The phone number is 800-272-8478.  If you're
not sure of the state office or agency you need to call, you can call
the Governor's tie-line for help.  The toll-free number of the
Governor's Tie-line is 800-272-9868.  The person answering the phone
will direct you to the proper agency or person.
   Don't forget, you can also get free information on a variety of
consumer-related topics from the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Women and Credit. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  3/26/82 (Carter)
Area:  State

                           Tele-Tip 3626
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service Tele-Tip number 3626,
"Women and Credit."
   Almost every American has at least one credit card.  Women can
now get credit in their own names simply by deciding on a purchase
and asking for credit.
   The law says that creditors may not discriminate against anyone
because of sex or marital status.  This means that you can't be denied
a loan because you are a woman, or single or married.
   One helpful step in establishing credit is to open a savings or
checking account in your own name.  This won't give you credit, but
creditors often check accounts to see if you have money and know
how to manage it.
   Since passage of the Equal Credit Opportunity Act, a woman who
qualifies for credit now has the legal right to put the account in her
name.  Married women may use their maiden names if they wish.  All
new credit accounts used jointly by husbands and wives must be filed
by creditors and credit bureaus in the names of both spouses.
   A married woman with her own income may want to apply for
separate accounts for which she alone will be responsible.  This will
show creditors that she has been granted credit only on her own
record of income and prompt payments.
   In a community property state like Louisiana, creditors may
consider credit history information about your husband even when you
apply for a separate account.  Laws in community property states give
both spouses control over the property they hold together.  Creditors
will check your husband's finances to make sure your joint assets can
cover your new credit obligations.               Even if you are
married and even though you live in a community property state, you
need to make sure that your local credit bureau has credit history
information in a separate file under your name.  If you move from
Louisiana, you may want to open an individual account based only on
your credit history.
   When using credit, resist the temptation to overbuy.  Don't get in
debt beyond your ability to repay.  Remember how much money you
have and how much credit you can afford.  Use your credit wisely.
   Pay your credit accounts when they are due, if at all possible.
This builds your credit reputation.  If unexpected expenses or illness
delays your payment, contact the creditor promptly and discuss the
situation.  In most cases, he will extend payment dates or adjust
monthly installments to help you.
   For more information about money management and budgeting, call
the home economist in your parish office of the LSU Cooperative
Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Supermarket Scanners. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3627
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3627, "Supermarket Scanners."
   Another marvel of computer technology has found its way into our
lives through our supermarkets.  It's the universal product code (or
UPC) scanning system, and it's designed to make shopping quicker,
easier and more pleasant.
   Since the scanning system was introduced in 1974, it has grown
rapidly and is now in use in about one-fourth of the supermarkets.
The UPC consists of an in-store computer linked to a laser scanner
and an electronic cash register.
   The key to scanning is the universal products code (UPC), which is
a bar code found on most items -- in fact, everything from magazines
to food.  The code on each item is passed over a glass-covered slot in
the checkout counter, where a laser scanner reads the code and
transmits the information to an in-store computer.  The price
previously entered into the computer for that item then flashes on the
visual display unit of the cash register and is, at the same time,
printed on the receipt tape.
   The first five numbers of the code designate the manufacturer, and
the next five numbers tell what the specific product is.  The retailer
may also make UPC labels for products not coded by the manufacturer.
You benefit from the scanners because you get speedier checkouts and
more detailed receipts which state not only the price of each item
bought but also the brand name and size.  You can use these receipts
to make long-term or short-term price comparisons. 
The receipts also enable you to compare prices at different stores              
and prices of different sizes and brands.  This is important, because
about one-fourth of the money spent at grocery stores is spent on
items that aren't even food.  These scanner receipts can help you see
exactly how much you spend on unnecessary items as well as what you
spend on products for household operation.
   Receipts can also help you determine if a balanced diet is being
purchased for your family.  You can compare the information on your
tape with U. S. Department of Agriculture food plans and food
expenditure calculations for families similar in size and age to yours.
   These scanners also lessen the likelihood of human error and may
result in lower prices when retailers pass cost savings on to
consumers.  The retailer benefits by increased labor productivity,
reduced labor costs, more accurate inventory control, better tracking
of customer and product flow, and fewer cashier errors.
   More and more supermarkets will add scanners, so it's important
that you to learn to use the information you receive on the tapes
from these scanners
   If you would like to have more information about food buying and
preparation, call the home economist in your parish office of the
Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Controlling Your Finances While Unemployed. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3628
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3628, "Controlling Your Finances While Unemployed."
   Losing a job is frightening, but you can still control your financial
affairs if you plan carefully and use money-stretching tips while you're
looking for a job.
   The first crisis of unemployment is a financial one.  There will still
be bills to pay.  Find out immediately about any benefits you may be
eligible for, such as state unemployment or food stamps.  If you're not
able to pay your bills, tell your creditors about your situation.  Most
are willing to extend payments or help you work out a schedule to pay
your debts.  Honesty is the best policy.
   If you feel overwhelmed by your financial situation, talk to your
banker or go to a nonprofit credit counseling agency for help.  It's
often harder to cope with the stress of being unemployed than it is to
make ends meet, especially if yours is a two-income household.  If
you're out of work for a long time, you may have feelings of self-
doubt to deal with.
   Talk to your family about your financial situation and involve them
in decisions about spending.  One of the most difficult things about
being unemployed is realizing that you may have to lower your
standard of living.  Don't pretend that nothing has happened.
   See how much your family owes by adding what you own and
subtracting what you owe.  This is your net worth.  You may have
assets that can be converted to cash.  To balance your income and
outgo, you may know exactly how much money you have coming in and
how it is spent.  Use your check stubs and receipts to estimate what
you spend on flexible expenses.  Evaluate these expenditures and make
any necessary changes. 
Anticipate upcoming big bills such as insurance payments and plan               
ways to pay for them.  Be sure your family is covered by adequate
life and health insurance while you aren't working.  You may be able
to apply for individual insurance with the company your employer
used.
   Use your savings or emergency funds sparingly.  Try not to borrow
money while you're unemployed.  It always costs money to borrow.
Let your financial institution advise you about withdrawing any large
sums from savings or about taking out a loan.  They may be able to
help you save money or keep you from losing all the interest from
your savings.
   For more information and suggestions about managing your money,
call the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Flood Insurance 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3629
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3629, "Flood Insurance".
   If you're a homeowner in an area that's subject to flooding, you
may need flood insurance.  Many homeowners discover too late that
ordinary homeowners insurance does not cover damage from rising
waters.
   Water damage from flooding, rising surface waters, waves, sewers
or drains, and from water seeping from below ground are specifically
excluded from homeowner policy coverage.
   To cover rising water damage, properties must be covered by a
special federal flood insurance program policy.  You can get this type
of coverage through any property and casualty agent or broker
licensed to do business in Louisiana.  Homeowners in many
communities in Louisiana are eligible to purchase flood insurance.
Your local agent can tell you if your community is participating in
this flood program.
   To determine your individual need for flood insurance, contact your
your building permit officer who will be able to tell you if your
property lies in a flood prone area.  If you don't know the name of
your building permit officer,  the mayor or local police jury can help
you find it.
        If you're in a flood prone area, you should seriously consider
purchasing flood insurance. Insurance rates are based on the likelihood
of your property being affected by flooding.  The insurance covers
both the property and its contents up to the limits of the policy that
is purchased.
   Also, if you're considering the purchase of any property, be sure to
investigate the flood proneness of the area where the property is
located.
   For more information on flood and homeowners insurance, contact
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
###
-End-
-Title-
Water Filters. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3705
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3705, "Water Filters."
        Americans are becoming increasingly concerned with the
quality of their water.  Many people have turned to activated-carbon
water filters and purifiers to upgrade their drinking water, rather than
buying bottled water.
   Activated-carbon filters can effectively remove many objectionable
tastes and odors.  They can also help clear sediments from tap water
and remove organic chemicals such as pesticides and chloroform -- a
common contaminant which is a suspected carcinogen.
   The under-sink filters are the larger and generally more effective,
yet more expensive type.  They do a good job of removing chlorine --
 a major source of bad taste in water.
   The units which use granular carbon -- as opposed to powder-in-
pad -- do a better job of permanently removing chloroform.  The
powdered carbon types have been known to re-deposit previously
absorbed chloroform back into the water after a certain point of use.
   Units with hard plastic sides force water to travel the length of
the filter, insuring longer contact with the filter.  The longer the
contact with the filter, the more effective the filtration.
   Some units also slow down the water flow rate to improve
filtration and extend the life of the filter cartridge.  These come with
a separate faucet and tubing to connect to your cold water supply
line.
   Faucet or sink-mounted filters are generally smaller, easier to
install, and cheaper than the under-sink variety.  But they generally
have a lower useful flow rate than most of the under-sink units and
their filter lifetime is shorter.
   You can use pour-through portable filters when you're traveling, as
long as the water you start with is suitable for drinking.  Both the
electric models and those which work like a drip coffee maker can be
as effective as faucet mounted filters.
        If you're only concerned with suspended sediment in your
water, you need a fiber filter, rather than a carbon filter -- which
clogs quickly.
        Most manufacturers of home-use filters claim only that their
products improve the taste and odor of water.  A few claim that their
products will remove toxic chemicals.  But one thing a water filter
will not remove is bacteria.  That's a job for a water purifier.  In
fact, there is some concern that wet carbon in filters can make a
good breeding ground for bacteria, particularly when the filter is not
used for a while and after it has treated a large quantity of water.
        In addition, activated carbon filters won't remedy hard water
_-water-softening devices are needed for this.  The filters will remove
rust particles, but they have little effect on dissolved metals and
hydrogen sulfide. They won't remove chlorides, fluorides or nitrates
either.  For this, a reverse osmosis unit or ion exchange device is
needed.
        Whatever choice you make -- how you use and maintain your
filter is essential to its good performance and safety.
        You should flush out the filter before the first use of the
day.  Open the faucet wide and let the water run at least thirty
seconds for an under-sink model and at least ten seconds for a sink-
mounted filter.  When you install a new cartridge, flush for several
minutes to remove fine carbon particles.
   You should change filters regularly.  A heavily used filter is more
likely to contain high bacterial levels and to discharge organic
chemicals previously trapped.  An exhausted filter is useless.
Don't filter hot water.  A filter on the faucet that passes hot water
will not remove contaminants very well and hot water may liberate
chemicals previously trapped.  An exhausted filter is useless.
        Use the slowest flow rate you can tolerate.  The longer the
water is in contact with the filter, the more impurities the carbon can
attract and the cleaner the water will be.
        After you install a new cartridge, remember to circle the date
on your calendar so that you will know when to replace it.
   For more information on water filters, contact your parish office of
the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Water Hardness. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3710
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3710, "Water Hardness."
   Hardness in water could be a problem for your laundry.  The
hardness minerals interfere with the cleaning action of soaps and
detergents.  It's harder to achieve good laundry results with water
that contains the calcium or magnesium ions that contribute to water
hardness.  Soils on fabrics can also add to the hardness of your wash
water.
   If you have problems with water hardness when washing, add more
detergent.  Some of the detergent will be used to tie up the hardness
ions that soften the water before the remaining detergent can do the
cleaning.
        When non-phosphate detergents containing carbonate builders
tie up the hardness ions, a white precipitate -- calcium and magnesium
carbonate -- forms and may give clothes white streaks.  It may also
build up in the washer.
   If you use soap in hard water, soap curd may form -- leaving
streaks and deposits or grease balls on your clothes.  You can remove
soap curd by soaking fabrics in a solution of warm water and a
packaged non-precipitating water softener or conditioner, such as
Calgon.  Just follow the package directions for proper usage.
   Synthetic detergents generally work best when laundering in hard
water.  Phosphates in synthetic detergents  help soften the water for
satisfactory results.  Hard water can also be softened mechanically,
after which good results can be achieved with most laundry products.
   For more information on water hardness, contact the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Water Softeners. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 3711
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3711, "Water Softeners."
   You can soften water in your home automatically with caution
exchange--
 mechanical water softeners -- or with packaged water softeners.
   If you use the cation exchange softener the water is soft when it
comes from the tap -- no measuring of a packaged softener is required
_- and both the wash and rinse water are soft.  In addition, the
alkalinity of the water is not increased as it would be with a
packaged softener.  Water that has been softened by the cation
exchange still contains dissolved minerals, but there is no calcium or
magnesium present.
   Mechanical water softeners require an initial investment and small
operating cost.  In many areas it is possible to rent equipment for a
small monthly charge, thus avoiding the initial investment.  Long-term
savings, resulting from reduced use of cleaning supplies and from
longer life of fabrics and water-using equipment, may offset the cost
of buying or renting water softening equipment.
   Cation exchange water softeners must be regenerated periodically
to provide a continuous supply of soft water.  This may be done
manually or with partially automatic or fully automatic equipment.
The fully automatic regeneration requires no attention from the owner
_- other than keeping the storage tank which is exchanged periodically
by the supplier.
   If you're going to use a packaged water softener, you can choose
from two types -- precipitating and non-precipitating.  The
precipitating softeners remove hardness by forming a precipitate -- an
undissolved solid.  They are cheap, but not very effective.  Water
softened with precipitation softeners is alkaline and cloudy.  The
precipitate becomes trapped in laundry items, making them harsh and
stiff.
   Non-precipitating packaged softeners control hardness by forming a
stable soluble compound.  Most softeners of this type can re-dissolve
soap curd and grease balls that have previously formed.
   In order to use packaged softeners effectively, the hardness and
quantity of water used should be known so that the proper amount of
softener can be measured and added to the water.  You should follow
the package directions to find out the quantity.
   Since packaged softeners can not soften water before it comes from
the tap, the softener must be added each time water is used.  For
example, it should be added to both the wash cycle and rinse cycle
when washing.
   For more information on water softeners, contact your parish office
of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Using Chinese Cabbage. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-



                           TeleTip 3175
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
3175, "Using Chinese Cabbage."
   Chinese cabbage is a relatively new vegetable in Louisiana.  You
can use it instead of lettuce for delicious, inexpensive salads.  Most
varieties have   a long or oval-shaped head with a crisp, firm inside.
The leaves, which are slightly wrinkled, are a lighter, brighter green
than the leaves of regular cabbage.  The leaves look a lot like lettuce,
and their mild flavor tastes more like lettuce than cabbage.  The
broad, white midrib is crisp and has a nice flavor, too.
   To make a salad with Chinese cabbage, separate the cabbage leaf
by leaf. Then, wash, drain and refrigerate it to make it crisp.
Chinese cabbage won't turn brown like lettuce does.  Tear the leaves
and chop the tender, white midrib to add extra crispness and flavor to
your salad.  Chinese cabbage can also be combined with lettuce or
other salad greens, such as fresh spinach, and with other fresh
vegetables including green onions, carrots, celery, tomato and
marinated avocado.
   Top your salad with your favorite salad dressing or combine oil and
vinegar and add parmesan cheese, hard-cooked egg and other
seasonings.  An old-fashioned bacon dressing for wilted salad is
delicious on salads made with Chinese cabbage.  You can also
substitute Chinese cabbage for lettuce on hamburgers and sandwiches
and use it to garnish a salad plate.  The white midrib can be used to
make relish sticks which add color and flavor to a relish tray.  
Chinese cabbage, often used in Chinese recipes, is good when it is              
shredded and cooked, too.  Cook the white midrib for a few minutes
and add the leaf blades near the end of cooking time.  Nutritionally,
Chinese cabbage is a fairly good source of vitamin C and it's low in
calories, too.
   For more information and suggestions about cooking vegetables or
for a free pamphlet called "Chinese Cabbage," call the home economist
in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.

-End-
-Title-
Air Conditioning Maintenance. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 4100
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4100, "Air Conditioning Maintenance."
   One good way to reduce your utility bill is to make sure your air
conditioning system receives proper maintenance.  It's a good
investment to have your air conditioner thoroughly serviced by a
professional each year.  The service representative should check the
condenser coils, the evaporator coils, the blower wheel, the filter, the
freon charge, the lubrication and pulleys, the condensate system, the
controls, and the electrical contacts.  If any of the equipment is dirty
or worn out, it should be cleaned or replaced.
   Stopped-up coils can lower efficiency, shorten the life of the
compressor and increase your energy bill.
   You should check your filter at least once a month and change it
if it's dirty.  Clean filters trap lint and dust, preventing your inside
coils from becoming clogged.
   A blower wheel that's covered with lint and dust will put out
fifteen to twenty percent less air.  A dirty blower wheel also usually
indicates dirty inside coils.
   Duct leaks can cost you a lot of money.  A supply side leak means
that conditioned air is going outside, while a leak on the return side
causes hot, unfiltered attic air to be drawn into the air conditioner.
This puts an extra load on the unit and fouls up the coils.  You
should inspect ducts regularly for leaks and repair them with high
quality material.  If insulation is skimpy, add more.  Your service
representative should adjust your freon charge to the manufacturer's
specifications to reduce energy consumption and insure proper
performance by the unit.
   In addition to annual servicing, there are other things you can do
to make sure your air conditioner functions properly.
   Keep plant foliage trimmed back two feet on each side of your
outside unit, and at least five feet from the top.  Plant foliage
restricts air circulation through the outside coils.
   Cut the grass around the outside unit when your air conditioner is
turned off, making sure that the mower throws the grass clippings
away from the coils.
   Check your clothes dryer vents, making sure that they don't
exhaust directly into the outside coils.  You should provide an
extension for the vent to direct exhaust air away from the outside
unit.  Lint stops up the outside coils and the hot air reduces its
efficiency.
   For more information on air conditioning maintenance, contact the
home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Insulation--How Much And What Kind. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 4105
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4105, "Insulation--How Much And What Kind."
   Before you invest in insulation, be sure you do all the less
expensive things that reduce energy usage first.  These include --
caulking, weatherstripping, installing electric outlet foam gaskets, and
sealing holes for plumbing to reduce air infiltration.  You also need to
check the ductwork in your attic for leaks, insulate your water heater,
install shower flow restrictors, and have your heating and cooling
systems thoroughly serviced and cleaned.
   Once you have completed these steps insulate any surfaces that
separate heated or conditioned air from the outside.  If all surfaces
have some insulation, and you're ready to add more, begin with the
attic.  Adding extra insulation over your ceilings will probably bring
the greatest return on the investment.
   Insulation power is measured by what's called its "R-value."  The
"R" stands for "resistance" to the flow of heat.  Every package of
home insulation, by law, must display its R-value rating.  So when you
shop for insulation, compare price per R-value, not inches.  For
example, loose-fill fiberglass has an R-value of about 2.3 per inch,
while urethane foam boards have an R-value of 5.9 per inch.  You
would need more than two and one-half inches of loose fill fiberglass
to give you the same insulating power as one inch of urethane foam
board.  You can determine the best buy by comparing the price of
getting the total R-value that you want.
   The amount of insulation you need depends on the climate where
you live.  For most of Louisiana, the Cooperative Extension Service
recommends R-26 to 30 for ceilings, R-19 for walls, and R-13 to 19
under the floor or if your home is built on a slab, R-8 of rigid
insulation around the perimeter of the slab. In New Orleans, R-13 in
the walls and R-11 under the floor is adequate.
   When you're installing insulation, be sure that vents in eaves and
crawl spaces are not blocked.  Also keep insulation away from the
tops and sides of recessed light fixtures.  If you handle fibrous
insulation yourself, wear protective clothing, gloves, goggles and a
dust mask.
   The type of insulation you need depends on where it's going to be
used.  You can use batts and blankets in unfinished areas -- such as
in the attic, under the floor and in open side walls.  Batts and
blankets are fire resistant, relatively inexpensive and easy for you to
install.
   Loose-fill insulation is suitable for finished and unfinished areas.
It can be poured into place between exposed floor joints or blown into
finished wall or floor cavities.  Any loose-fill materials may settle in
time, thus lowering its R-value.  The risk of fire from loose-fill
insulation is remote, except for that insulation made of cellulose.
   Liquid foam can be installed in finished walls by specialized
contractors.  Urethane foam is expensive but has a high R-value.
Urea formaldehyde or "U-F" foams can release formaldehyde vapors --
 especially during hot, humid weather.  It can also deteriorate when
exposed to light or open air.
   Rigid boards are best suited for exterior wall sheathing and the
floor slab perimeter, since they don't shrink or settle.  You can also
add them to finished walls.  However, plastic foam boards are
combustible and must be covered with a fire retardant material.
   For more information on insulation, contact the home economist in
your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
Laundry, Saving Energy. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 4108
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4108, "Laundry, Saving Energy."
   A good way to conserve energy when using an automatic washer is
to select a cold water rinse.  Rinsing in cold water is adequate for all
types of wash cycles.
   When you're laundering washable woolens, bright colors and lightly
soiled items, select a cold water wash.  Since cold water does not
clean clothes as well as hot or warm water, it may be necessary to
pretreat stained or soiled areas of your clothes when using cold water.
   Besides washing in cold water, there are other steps you can follow
to help conserve energy.
   You can adjust the water level to the size of your wash load, but
do not overload the washer in an effort to save water.  Your clothes
will look better if you use a lower water level for a small load of
garments, similar in color and fabric type.  Don't mix clothes of
different colors to make a full load. If you mix colors, the dyes may
transfer from one color to the other.
   You can save energy by keeping the lint filter clean on the dryer.
A dirty lint filter will prevent airflow and slow the drying process.
   Do not overload or underload your dryer.  An average size load of
like weight items drys most efficiently.  Also, avoid over drying your
clothes.  This wastes energy and may cause items to shrink and
wrinkle.
   When your clothes are dry remove them as soon as possible.  If
they rest in the dryer after the tumbling stops they will become
wrinkled.  On a clear day dry your clothes outside and let nature help
you save energy.
   If you're buying new laundry equipment, look for energy-efficient
models.
   For more information about home laundry, contact the home
economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension
Service.
                                       ###
-End-
-Title-
Weatherstripping. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-


                           TeleTip 4110
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4110, "Weatherstripping."
   Weatherstripping is a cost-effective way of improving the energy
efficiency of your home.  The different types of weatherstripping vary
in cost, durability, ease of installation and invisibility.
   The longest lasting type of weatherstripping is tension strips, both
metal and plastic.  Tension strips are relatively inexpensive and can be
used for nearly any type of door and window joint, including that
difficult spot where the two sashes of a double-hung window meet.
However, tension strips cannot fill irregular gaps.  Plastic self-
adhesive tension strips are easier to install than metal ones, and are
almost as durable.
   You can use reinforced strips and tubular gaskets with all types of
doors and windows.  Their major drawback is their visibility, since
they are attached directly to the frame.  Vinyl reinforced strips are
quite durable.  Reinforced felt and foam strips and tubular gaskets will
last several years.  The foam strips and gaskets will fill gaps in
irregular surfaces -- whereas, the vinyl and felt strips will not.  The
vinyl and foam reinforced strips cost about the same as tension strips.
Felt strips and lower quality gaskets are less expensive.
   You can install self-adhesive foams quickly and easily.  They are
not visible under window sashes and in door jambs, and can fill gaps
in irregular surfaces -- but self-adhesive foams don't always stick
well.  It's best to use these foams where they will be held in place by
compression.  Self-adhesive foams should not be placed between sliding
parts.  They are subject to abrasion and may be difficult to remove
when worn.  They vary widely in price and durability. The open cell
polyurethane foam and sponge foams may not last long.  The closed
cell vinyl foam and E-P-D-M rubber foams both last for several years,
but the vinyl is much less expensive.
   You can use nonreinforced felt strips much like nonreinforced foam
strips.  Felt strips are more resistant to abrasion than foam strips,
and will last several years.  But they absorb water and should only be
used where they dry quickly.  Felt strips are inexpensive and can be
easily installed with a staple gun, using rust-proof staples.  However,
they can not fill gaps in irregular surfaces.
   A new type of weatherstripping is a magnetic gasket which can be
used with metal insulated doors.  It forms a tight seal like the seal on
modern refrigerator doors.
   Special weatherstripping is used to seal large gaps at the bottom of
a door.  You can use door sweeps, door bottoms or thresholds.
   Door sweeps attach to the inside face of a door that swings in or
to the outside of a door which swings out.  They work well and are
easy to install.  If you have deep carpeting, automatic door sweeps
which raise when the door is opened are available.
   Door bottoms attach to the bottom of a door to fill the gap
between the door and the threshold.  Two types can be used.  Those
with an "L" or "U" shaped channel are more visible, but easier to
install.  Those that attach to the bottom edge of the door are less
visible, but you must remove the door to install them.
   Thresholds with a vinyl or rubber gasket work well.  Their only
drawback is that their gaskets wear down quickly if the doorway is
used constantly.
   For more information on weatherstripping or for a free pamphlet
called "New Home Construction: Weatherstripping and Caulking",
contact the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service.
                                ###
-End-
-Title-
What is 4-H. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  8/23/83 (Smith)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 4501
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4501, "What is 4-H."
   The 4-H Club is a worldwide organization for youth which is active
in every parish in Louisiana.  For a long time, 4-H appealed mostly to
young people in rural areas who worked on farm-related projects.
   But, over the years, 4-H has changed.  More projects have been
added to include such subjects as photography, dog care, pet care, arts
and crafts, bicycling, public speaking, automotive are and many
others...50 in all.  So, no matter where you live you you're likely to
find something in 4-H you're interested in.
   4-H is open to anyone between the ages of 9 and 19 and there are
a number of ways you can join...in school clubs, community clubs,
special interest groups, school enrichment groups, project clubs or you
can even be a member at large.
   As a 4-H Club member you learn to keep written records and make
presentations on your projects.  You also have the opportunity to
compete in contests on the local and state level.  And, depending on
your project, you may have the chance to win trips to Florida,
Chicago, Washington, D.C., and other places.  But, perhaps best of all,
you meet people who are interested in the same things you're
interested in.
   The 4-H Club is sponsored in Louisiana by the Louisiana
Cooperative Extension Service which has professional 4-H Club agents
in every parish in the state.  If you're interested in learning more
about 4-H, call the agent in your parish.  He or she will give you all
the details.  Here's the number to call...


-End-
-Title-
Extension Homemakers Club. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
                              TeleTip 4601
   This is Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number
4601, "Extension Homemakers Club."
   If you're a homemaker interested in learning new ideas and
improving the quality of your life and that of your family and your
community, you should consider joining an Extension Homemakers Club,
or starting one in your neighborhood.
   The Extension Homemakers Club is a voluntary, non-profit
educational organization which helps people identify and solve family
and community problems.
   You will serve as a liaison to the community, transmitting vital
information provided by the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service.
   As an Extension homemaker, you will become a member of several
groups...the local Homemakers Club, the parish Extension Homemakers
Council, the state council and the national council, which is affiliated
with Country Women's Council and Associated Country Women of the
World.
   In your local club, you will gain new knowledge and skills that
improve the quality of life for yourself and your family.
   Practical demonstrations and discussions are important parts of the
club's meetings.  You will discuss the important local needs and
interests of the community, then plan programs with the assistance of
an Extension home economist.
   As a member of a homemakers club, you'll gain new knowledge and
improve practices and skills in nutrition and health, family money
management, home furnishings and housing, family relations and youth
development, energy conservation, clothing and textiles, cultural arts,
citizenship, and safety and emergency preparedness.




   Membership in an Extension Homemakers Club is open to everyone.
Although the membership is predominantly women, some fathers who
are raising children alone are finding solutions to their homemaking
problems in these clubs.
   Meetings are held at least once a month and dues, which are
established by the local club, are generally low.
   If you're interested in joining an Extension Homemakers Club or
starting one in your community or neighborhood, you should talk to
the home economist in your parish office of the Louisiana Cooperative
Extension Service or ask for a free pamphlet titled "The Extension
Homemakers Council."  Here's the number to call.

###
-End-
-Title-
Growing requirements for African Violets. 
-State-
Louisiana, La
-Region-
Southern, S
-Doc-
Reviewed:  2/19/82 (Pope)
Area:  State

                           TeleTip 1001
   This is LSU Cooperative Extension Service TeleTip number 1001,
"Growing requirements for African Violets."
   Unquestionably, the African violet is the favorite flowering house
plant in America.  It's popular because it's easy to propagate and it
blooms constantly throughout the year...without a rest period.
   African violets will flower all year...but they need the right amount
of light to do it.  If they don't get enough light, their leaves become
thin and they develop long stems.  Even when they don't get enough
light their color is fairly normal...and if they bloom at all it won't be
very much.
   But...you can give them too much light, too.  If the light is too
intense, the growth is less vigorous and more compact than under
normal conditions.  Leaves become pale or yellowish green.  Often the
leaves show darker areas where they have been shaded by other
leaves.  Flowering may continue, but it will be decreased.
   African violets can be grown under artificial light.  You can put
two forty-watt fluorescent tubes with reflectors about twelve to
eighteen inches above the tops of the plants and you leave them on
about twelve to fifteen hours a day.
   Night temperatures for African violets should be between 65 and 70
degrees.  The temperature during the day should about ten to fifteen
degrees warmer than the night temperatures.
   If the plants are exposed to extremely cold temperatures, the
leaves will first turn dark, then they'll appear watersoaked...then
they'll finally die.
 
The soil used for growing african violets should be loose and   henn0t be       
porous so that it drains well.  A good mixture may contain two parts
peat moss, one part coarse perlite and one part vermiculite.  Add one
tablespoon of dolomitic limestone to each gallon of this mix to control
acidity.
   You will need to set a definite schedule for watering your African
violets.  How much water they get depends on the conditions under
which they are growing.  Generally, you will need to water the plants
when the soil surface feels dry...but before it becomes hard or before
the plants begin to wilt.  Put enough water on them each time to
thoroughly saturate the soil.  Throw away the excess water that drains
through the bottom of the pot.
   You should put small plants in a two-and-a-quarter or two-and-a-
half inch pot.  As the plants grow, shift them first to a three-inch
pot and then later to a four-inch pot.  You'll need to use an azalea
pot when the plants outgrow the four inch pot.  An azalea pot is two-
thirds as deep as it is wide.
   For more gardening information and suggestions or for a free
pamphlet called "African Violets," call the county agent or home
economist in your parish office of the LSU Coopertive Extension
Service.
                               
-End-
