\m    36   12   37    2  1 'Preface'
\m    57   19   29    2  1 'Introduction'
\m    86   31   50    3  1 'Inspecting Plants'
\m   106   39   73    3  1 'Beneficial Insects'
\m   126   48   29    3  1 'Types of Pests'
\m   157   57    5    4  1 'Control of Pests'
\m   158   57   30    4  2 'Non-Insecticidal Control'
\m   190   69  112    4  2 'Chemical Control'
\m   191   70    9    4  3 'General Information'
\m   224   81   86    5  3 'Sprayers'
\m   244   90   26    5  3 'General-Purpose Sprays'
\m   261   96   46    6  3 'Systemic Insecticides'
\m   296  111    9    6  3 'Phytotoxicity or Plant Injury'
\m   317  119   28    7  2 'Specific Pests and Their Control'
\m   318  119   69    7  3 'Scales'
\m   361  136  121    7  3 'Mealybugs'
\m   378  142   50    8  3 'Aphids'
\m   393  147  109    8  3 'Whiteflies'
\m   441  169   48    9  3 'Lacebugs'
\m   457  175   49    9  3 'Thrips'
\m   470  180   34    9  3 'Caterpillars'
\m   488  186   35   10  3 'Grasshoppers and Katydids'
\m   499  190   21   10  3 'Beetles'
\m   511  194   72   10  3 'Spider Mites'
\m   536  205   78   10  3 'Leafminers'
\m   550  210    4   11  3 'Borers'
\m   577  221   99   11  3 'Sooty Mold'
\m   588  225   14   11  3 'Ants'
\m   598  228   33   11  3 'Slugs and Snails'
\t'November 1987'                                                 'I D-'
\a                      Dr. Don Short, Extension Entomologist
\a
\a                HOMEOWNER ORNAMENTAL PEST MANAGEMENT SUGGESTIONS

                      Dr. Don Short, Extension Entomologist
\h 1 'Preface'


                HOMEOWNER ORNAMENTAL PEST MANAGEMENT SUGGESTIONS



                                    PREFACE

According to the Federal Environmental Pesticide Control Act, all pesticides
must be handled and applied in strict accordance with directions on the
pesticide container label.  The plant must be listed on the label; however,
the 1978 amended law allows the grower to apply against pests not specifically
listed on the label.  Also, if a pesticide is used inside the greenhouse, it
must be labeled for greenhouse use.

To the best of our knowledge, the suggested pesticides in this section are
labeled on the crops discussed.  However, pesticide labels differ widely in
plant and insect listings.  Some are broad ornamental labels and others
specifically list certain plants for which the pesticide is labeled.  READ THE
LABEL CAREFULLY.
\h 1 'Introduction'

                                  Introduction

To combat insect pests successfully, something should be known about the
manner in which they develop and feed.  Insects normally hatch from eggs
deposited on or near the food supply although in some cases as with aphids
they hatch within the female's body and the active young emerge from the
female.  Adults usually have fully developed wings although a few species of
insects never develop wings.

Insects pass through several stages during their development (metamorphosis).
Plant bugs, leafhoppers, thrips and grasshoppers hatch from the egg in a form
known as a nymph.  The nymph resembles the full grown insect except that it
lacks wings and is smaller.  It moults periodically as it increases in size
(gradual metamorphosis).  Moths, beetles and flies on the other hand hatch
from the eggs in a worm-like form (larva) that is much different in appearance
from the adult.  The larva of a moth or butterfly is commonly called a
caterpillar; the larva of a beetle is called a grub, and the larva of a fly is
known as a maggot.

Larva moult periodically and when mature they transform to an inactive form
known as pupa.  The adult moth, beetle or fly emerges from the pupa after a
period of no feeding and little activity (complete metamorphosis).

The length of the life-cycle varies greatly with many species of insects.
Some develop from egg to adult in a few days or weeks, many require a year and
a few take two or more years to reach maturity.
\b\v
\h 1 'Inspecting Plants'
\v
\v
                               Inspecting Plants

Plants should be examined weekly during the spring, summer and fall.  The
undersides of a few leaves on each plant should be checked and the stems
observed for pests.  The use of a 10 to 15 power hand lens or magnifying glass
is a definite aid in detecting and identifying insects and related organisms.

Many insects merely rest on the plant and are neither pests nor beneficial.
To further aid in locating small pests such as thrips or mites, a sheet of
white paper or cloth may be held beneath the leaves and the foliage struck
sharply.  The insects or mites will fall onto the paper and can be more easily
observed and identified than on the green foliage.

Most plants in the urban landscape are over-sprayed resulting in unnecessary
environmental contamination and often upsetting the predator/parasite/pest
balance which exists naturally.  Don't apply a control measure until a pest
population is present and damage is beginning to occur.
\h 1 'Beneficial Insects'


                               Beneficial Insects

Less than one-half of one percent of all insects are considered pests on
plants.  There are many insects that are beneficial and feed upon harmful
insects.  Some common examples of predators are lady beetles, preying mantids,
assassin bugs, ambush bugs and aphid lions.  Spiders are also predators of
numerous pestiferous insects.  Many species of mites do not damage plants but
instead feed upon other plant-feeding mites.  Also, many insect pests are
parasitized by tiny wasp-like parasites.

It is important to learn to identify these beneficials and to recognize when
pests are being held in check by their natural enemies.  When such pests as
aphids, scales or whitefly nymphs have a small hole, as if stuck by a straight
pin, it is evidence that they have been parasitized by tiny wasps.  If
predators are present or the pests show signs of parasitism, every effort
should be made to preserve the beneficial insects.  Delay applying a pesticide
and allow the beneficials to control the pest population.
\h 1 'Types of Pests'


                                 Types of Pests


Pests of ornamentals may be divided into five groups according to the way they
damage plants.

INSECTS WITH PIERCING-SUCKING MOUTHPARTS:
These insects have beak-like mouthparts which are used for piercing the plant
tissue and sucking the plant juices.  Examples:  scales, aphids, whiteflies,
mealybugs, thrips, lacebugs, spittlebugs.

SPIDER MITES:
These pests are not insects but closely related to spiders and scorpions.
They suck plant juices with their piercing-sucking mouthparts.

FOLIAGE FEEDING INSECTS:
They may feed on the leaves, flowers or attack the roots.  Examples:
caterpillars, beetles, grasshoppers, katydids.

\bLEAFMINERS:
These are very small larvae of flies, beetles or moths that tunnel between the
upper and lower leaf surfaces.  Examples:  blotch leafminers and serpentine
leafminers.

BORERS:
These are many species of insects which bore into the twigs or trunks of
plants and trees.  These are either the larvae of moths or beetles.  Examples:
 pine bark beetles, seagrape borer, carpenter worm.
\h 1 'Control of Pests'
\h 2 'Non-Insecticidal Control'


                        Control of Pests on Ornamentals

Non-Insecticidal Control:

Many homeowners are able to remove some pests and keep populations below
damaging levels by spraying their landscape plants with a forceful stream of
water.  Use a garden hose with an adjustable nozzle and spray undersides of
leaves and stems when such pests as aphids, mealybugs, spidermites, thrips or
lacebugs appear.

There are several soaps available that are formulated for controlling insects
and related pests.  If one of the commercial soaps for insect control is
unavailable, three tablespoons of liquid dishwashing soap/gallon of water may
be applied as a foliar spray to the plants.

Commercial formulations of Bacillus thuringiensis (Dipel), a bacterium, are
available and provide good control of moth and butterfly larvae.  This
bacteria has no effect on other groups of insects including the predators and
parasites.

Mechanical control is sometimes practical for small numbers of the larger
insects including caterpillars, grasshoppers and beetles.  Frequently insects
can be picked or knocked off the plant and destroyed.  Large numbers of newly
hatched caterpillar or beetle larvae may be detected by watching for freshly
skeletonized leaves and destroyed in this way.  After hatching, small cater-
pillar and beetle larvae remain on the leaf for several days.  Damaged leaves
can be removed and destroyed before the larvae have dispersed over the plants.
Early stage lubber grasshoppers also feed in aggregates and can be hand picked
and destroyed.
\h 2 'Chemical Control'
\h 3 'General Information'


Chemical Control:



   General Information

Insecticides may be required to control insects and related pests when they
reach damaging levels on landscape plants.  Most of the modern insecticides
control by either contact with the insect or as a stomach poison.  Some also
exert a fumigating or vapor action under certain conditions.

\bMaterials should be selected that will be effective in controlling the pests
without injuring the plant or causing buildup of other pests.  Before using a
chemical insecticide, the following points should be considered:

SELECT THE RIGHT MATERIAL: Only use one that is recommended to control the
target pests and is safe on the host plants.

USE THE RIGHT AMOUNT: Use the recommended amount.  Too little won't control
the pest; too much may injure the plant.  READ THE CONTAINER CAREFULLY FOR
CORRECT DOSAGE RATE.

APPLY IT IN THE RIGHT WAY: Thorough coverage of the leaves (especially the
underside), twigs and branches is essential.  The insecticide spray must reach
the area of the plant where the pest is feeding.  Most failures to control
pests are the fault of the person making the application, not of the
insecticide.  The addition of a spreader sticker to the spray mixture is
recommended when spraying ornamental plants unless the label states otherwise.
Use of a spreader sticker will aid in the pesticide adhering to the leaves and
improve the coverage for better control.
\h 3 'Sprayers'


   Sprayers

Sprayers of various types and sizes are available including simple trombone
action sprayers, 1 to 3 gallon compressed air sprayers and 1 to 3 gallon
knap-sack sprayers.  The type of sprayer needed varies with the size and type
of planting to be protected.  With all sprayers, thorough coverage of leaves
and wood to the point of runoff of the spray is important.

Sprayers which attach to the end of garden hoses are popular with home
gardeners but are less satisfactory, in general, for use on ornamental plants
and in particular against pests like scales and spider mites.  The spray
pattern is usually coarse, and it is difficult to direct the spray to reach
and adequately cover the undersides of the leaves, especially those near the
ground and on the side of plants close to a building or fence.  Considerably
more insecticide is used with the hose end attachment and this leads to
greater harm to the environment.  If a hose attachment is used, be sure it is
one manufactured for use on ornamental plants, not a lawn hose attachment.
\h 3 'General-Purpose Sprays'


   General-purpose sprays

Needless to say, it is impossible to suggest one spray mixture that will
control all insect and mite pests of ornamentals.  It will often be necessary
to make additional treatments with other insecticides for some pests.

An example of a general purpose spray is one containing diazinon, orthene
or malathion; plus Sevin, in addition to dicofol or Vendex.  The diazinon,
orthene or malathion is primarily for controlling sucking insects including
aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies and scales and some chewing insects; Sevin
controls a wide range of chewing insects including beetles, caterpillars and
grasshoppers and dicofol or Vendex controls spider mites.  General purpose
sprays are commercially available.
\b\v
\h 3 'Systemic Insecticides'
\v
\v
   Systemic insecticides

A systemic insecticide is a chemical compound that is absorbed by the host
plant, translocated throughout its tissues and makes the host toxic to certain
insect and mite pests.  Several systemic insecticides are taken up from the
soil by the roots of plants and translocated throughout the plant tissues,
others can be absorbed by foliage or stem sprays or from injections into the
plants' stems.

Systemic insecticides have been effective primarily in controlling small
sucking pests, including aphids, whiteflies, scales, mealybugs, lacebugs and
spider mites.  In general, they have not given satisfactory control of chewing
insects.

Cygon, and Orthene are systemic insecticides that are available
as emulsifiable concentrates for use by home gardeners.  They can be mixed
with water and applied as foliar sprays.  Cygon can be applied as a soil
drench.  Sprays give quick kill, but the residual effect on insects is much
shorter than soil drenches.  Di-Syston is available in a 2% granular formula-
tion and as a 1% active ingredient in fertilizer.  It is relatively slow in
action, but effective for long periods of time.  Granules are absorbed more
rapidly by plants if they are worked into the soil and watered.

Systemic insecticides applied to the soil as drenches or granules can remain
effective over six weeks.  Also, when applied in this manner, they are
relatively harmless to any insect predators and parasites that may be present
as these insects do not feed on the plant.

The above systemic insecticides are available in different formulations and
concentrations and the amounts may vary for different ornamental plants.
Follow the directions and precautions on the manufacturer's container label
for the amounts to use on the ornamental plants specified on the label.
\h 3 'Phytotoxicity or Plant Injury'


   Phytotoxicity or plant injury

A pesticide or mixture of pesticides may cause injury to certain plants.  The
condition under which the injury occurs may vary considerably depending upon
temperature, humidity and other environmental factors.  In general, it is best
to apply pesticides during the cooler part of the day.  Plants are less likely
to be injured when protected by at least broken shade as opposed to being in
direct sun.

It is a good practice to water or irrigate ornamental plants one to two days
before applying pesticides.  Some materials can injure plants when they are
stressed for moisture.  Wettable powders are generally safer to use on plants
than emulsifiable concentrates because they do not contain emulsifiers and
solvents.  Florida researchers have done extensive work concerning
phytotoxicity on ornamental plants.  The pesticide label and brochure
accompanying the pesticide provide additional phytotoxicity information for a
specific pesticide.
\b\v
\h 2 'Specific Pests and Their Control'
\h 3 'Scales'
\v
\v
Specific Pests and Their Control:



   Scales

There are many different kinds of armored and soft scales that attack
ornamental plants.  Most scale insects attach themselves to their host plant
soon after hatching and rarely do these insects move from their feeding site
during their lives.  Scale insects feed by inserting a tiny thread-like beak
into the plant and sucking the plant juices.

Scale insects are more difficult to control as they become mature.  Make
weekly inspections of plants during the spring, summer and fall.  Carefully
observe the undersides of the leaves and stems for scale infestations.  Many
scale species are highly parasitized by tiny parasitic wasps.  Carefully
observe for a small hole in the wax covering which indicates parasitism.  If
20-40% have been parasitized, continue to monitor the infestation since a
pesticide application probably is not necessary.  Egg hatching of scale
insects is closely correlated with the flush of new growth in the spring.  If
plants have a history of serious, persistent scale problems (camellia,
hibiscus, holly, Ixora, etc.), they should be sprayed in the spring shortly
after the new growth hardens and before the scales become mature.

Cygon is a systemic insecticide that is effective against most kinds of scale
insects.  Apply a second application in 2 or 3 weeks.  Diazinon, malathion and
Orthene are suggested for scale crawlers only (immediately after hatching from
the egg).  Repeat the spray application in 2 to 3 weeks.  In cases of severe
scale infestations, a third spray is usually needed.

Summer oil emulsion sprays may be used for scale insect control and have very
little toxicity to persons handling them.  In general, oil sprays are not very
effective against mealybugs.

A combination of malathion or ethion plus oil emulsion has been more effective
than either material applied alone for several scale species.  In combination
the oil emulsion is used at a reduced concentration and thus with reduced
chances of injury to plants.  Mixtures of malathion or ethion and oil are
commercially available in many areas or they can be mixed together according
to container label.
\h 3 'Mealybugs'


   Mealybugs

Mealybugs are important pests of annuals and perennials in addition to some
woody ornamentals.  They excrete honeydew which attracts ants and serves as a
medium for development of sooty mold fungus.

Mealybugs are soft-bodied scale insects which are usually covered with white
powdery or cottony, wax-like material.  They vary from 1/5 to 1/3 inch in
length when mature.  Some of the most common host plants for mealybugs are
azalea, coleus, croton, cactus, rose and interior foliage plants.

If infestations require an insecticide, use one suggested for scales except
summer oil emulsion.  Two applications 2 to 3 weeks apart are suggested.
\b\v
\h 3 'Aphids'
\v
\v
   Aphids

Aphids or plant lice are small, soft-bodied insects with sucking mouthparts.
They usually attack young, tender growth causing the leaves to curl.  Their
color varies from green to reddish to black.  Examine plants weekly,
especially during the spring months when new growth is abundant.  Observe for
any predators or evidence of parasitism before applying insecticides.  Lady
beetles and aphid lions are important predators of these pests.

Insecticidal soap, Cygon, Orthene, malathion and diazinon are recommended
controls if required.  A second application is not necessary, however, keep
close watch on plants for reinfestations throughout the year.
\h 3 'Whiteflies'


   Whiteflies

Whiteflies are common pests on many ornamental plants.  Some plants most
frequently attacked include allamanda, chinaberry, citrus, fringe tree,
gardenia, ligustrum, viburnum, persimmon and many annuals.

Adult whiteflies resemble tiny white moths, however, they are not closely
related to moths but are more related to scale insects.  They are only about
1/16 inch long and have four wings.  The wings and body are covered with a
fine white powdery wax.  The immature stages (nymphs) which are found on the
undersides of leaves are flat, oval in outline and slightly smaller than a pin
head.  They are light green and somewhat transparent.

Citrus whitefly nymphs, the most common whitefly species attacking ornamental
plants other than citrus, are highly parasitized by a small wasp,
Prospaltella lahorensis.  These parasites were first released in Gainesville
and Winter Haven in 1977.  In 1979, additional releases were made at approxi-
mately 650 locations distributed in 65 counties.  Leaf samples received from
265 of these locations in August-September 1980 yielded 110 positive records
for presence of the parasite and encompassed 42 of Florida's 67 counties.
Other survey activities revealed presence of the parasite in five additional
counties.  Whitefly populations at many locations in Alachua and Polk counties
have been drastically reduced and similar reductions are expected to occur
throughout the state by 1983 on all but ornamental citrus.  Citrus is the
primary host of the cloudy winged whitefly, a species closely related to the
citrus whitefly that is not attacked by Prospaltella lahorensis.

The citrus blackfly is also under complete biological control due to two tiny
introduced wasps which have spread throughout the state as this whitefly has
moved from its point of introduction in Fort Lauderdale to several areas in
central Florida.

Carefully examine plants susceptible to whitefly infestations with the aid of
a hand lens for evidence of the parasite.  Parasitized whitefly nymphs will
contain the larva or pupa of the parasite or the parasite emergence hole will
be seen in the whitefly nymph.  The parasite does not attack the adult
whitefly.  If parasitism is evident, do not apply a pesticide.  Chemical
control will delay increase of the parasites which will eventually control the
pest.

\bIf damage is evident and no parasitized nymphs are found, Cygon, malathion,
diazinon, oil emulsion, and Orthene are effective controls for whiteflies.
Apply a second application in 10 to 14 days.  Di-Syston granules as discussed
in the systemic insecticide section are effective and will not harm the
parasites that may be present on plants.
\h 3 'Lacebugs'


   Lacebugs

Lacebugs are small insects, only about 1/8 inch long, broad and flat.  Their
body is usually brown in color and the wings are clear with a fine lace-like
appearance.  Immature lacebugs are black, wingless and covered with spines.
They have piercing-sucking mouthparts and damage appears as a whitish
speckling on the top side of the leaf which is caused by the feeding of these
insects on the undersides of the leaves.

The presence of shiny black spots of excrement on the undersides of leaves is
a good indication of a lacebug infestation.  Some of the common host plants
are azalea, pyracantha and sycamore.  Control:  Diazinon, Cygon, malathion and
Orthene are effective.  Apply a second application in 10 to 14 days.
\h 3 'Thrips'


   Thrips

Thrips are very small, slender insects with rasping-sucking mouthparts used to
remove plant juices.  Close observation is necessary to locate them.  Use hand
lens and white paper as discussed under section on examining plants.  Some
species, like the greenhouse thrips and red-banded thrips, are primarily
foliage feeders.  Among those that feed on flowers are the Florida flower
thrips and gladiolus thrips.  Thrip populations are highest during the spring
months.  Cygon, malathion, and Orthene are among the more effective
insecticides.  Apply a second application in 7 to 10 days.
\h 3 'Caterpillars'


   Caterpillars

Numerous species of caterpillars, which are the immature or larval stage of
moths and butterflies, feed on ornamentals.  They devour the foliage leaving
holes and irregular areas or they may strip the leaves entirely.

Bacillus thuringiensis, diazinon, Orthene and Sevin have been effective
against most leaf-feeding caterpillars.  Dipel will control only caterpillars
and will not harm any non-pest species present.

Cutworms typically stay in the soil during the day and feed at night on the
base of the tender plants.  Some climb up the plant and feed on buds and
leaves.  Diazinon or Dylox are effective for controlling cutworms.  The
application of a Dylox bait in late afternoon will provide control.
\b\v
\h 3 'Grasshoppers and Katydids'
\v
\v
   Grasshoppers and Katydids

These insects occasionally consume large quantities of foliage on ornamentals
leaving an ugly, irregular appearance.  Grasshoppers are easy to see and
should be controlled before they become numerous.  Katydids which are green in
color and feed at night are not commonly found in large numbers.  Frequently
grasshoppers and katydids can be removed from the plants and killed by hand.
Diazinon is an effective control.
\h 3 'Beetles'


   Beetles

Beetles are hard-shelled insects with chewing mouthparts.  They feed on the
foliage or flowers of many plants.  Some are active at night and hide beneath
the plant in debris or mulch during the day while many feed during the day.
Flower beetles are difficult to control as they often fly in from adjacent
areas in large numbers.  The larvae of most beetles are also destructive.
They may feed on the roots or bore through the stems and branches.  Sevin and
diazinon are effective controls against a wide range of beetles.
\h 3 'Spider Mites'


   Spider Mites

Mites are not insects but are more closely related to spiders and ticks.
Full-grown mites are only 1/50 inch in length or smaller.  The use of a hand
lens or magnifying glass and a sheet of white paper as discussed in section on
examining plants is advisable when checking for their presence.  They may be
light green with two dark spots on the sides of the abdomen, red or purplish
in color.  Mites feed by inserting a tiny sucking beak into plant tissue
withdrawing plant juices and chlorophyll.  This results in a small colorless
or whitish spot and in time the leaves have a finely stippled appearance.

Insecticidal soap or dicofol are the suggested miticides for home gardener
use.  A combination spray containing malathion plus oil emulsion as discussed
for scales will also control spider mites.  Cygon and Orthene provide some
control of mites especially when applied before populations become heavy.
Summer oil emulsion spray for use on foliage is another old remedy that is
still effective though thorough coverage is especially important.

Learn to recognize the mites and their injury.  Examine plants at weekly
intervals and treat promptly when damage appears.  Under Florida conditions,
mites are able to complete their life cycle in 7 to 10 days at 80 F.
Therefore, it is important to apply a second spray application in 5 to 6 days.
\h 3 'Leafminers'


   Leafminers

Leafminers are the larvae of small flies, moths or beetles that mine between
the leaf surfaces.  The two most common kind, the serpentine and the blotch
leafminers, are so named because of the shape of their mines in the leaves.

Leafmining pests are difficult to control because they are protected from
insecticides by the leaf surfaces.  Cygon and Orthene have been the most
effective materials because of their systemic action.  Diazinon also offers
some control.  Apply a second application in 7 to 10 days.
\b\v
\h 3 'Borers'
\v
\v
   Borers

There are many kinds of borers, but most are the larvae of beetles or moths.
They can be placed into three main types:  (1) the pine bark beetles which
bore in the inner bark and feed on the cambium; (2) borers which burrow in
small limbs or twigs; and (3) borers which burrow deep into the trunk.
Usually sawdust-like borings are noticed around the entrance holes and collect
in bark crevices.  Sap may flow from holes and form small "pitch tubes."

In most cases, the borers are not the primary cause of trouble to trees but
rather these insects attack trees first weakened by something else.  A tree
does not have to be badly weakened to make it susceptible to attack by borers.
Injury or stress to the tree caused by drought, salt water intrusion, soil
added or removed above the roots, soil compaction, digging house foundations,
septic tanks, underground utilities, lightning, winds, wounds to the trunk or
roots caused by vehicles or machinery may mark the beginning of insect
problems.  Also, the setback that trees receive in transplanting increases the
possibility that borers may attack them.

Preventing borer attacks by keeping the tree or plant healthy is the best
control.  Follow all approved cultural and maintenance practices especially
regarding susceptible species such as pines, seagrapes, dogwoods, mahoganys
and oaks.  If evidence of borers is noticed, apply lindane or Dursban as
directed on container label for control.
\h 3 'Sooty Mold'


   Sooty Mold

Sooty mold is a black fungus that grows in the excretion of aphids, mealybugs,
many soft scales and particularly of immature whiteflies.  This fungus
detracts from the beauty of ornamental plants but does not cause as much
injury as most people believe.  Controlling the above pests will prevent or
reduce the problem of sooty mold.  Sooty mold may be washed off with soapy
water.
\h 3 'Ants'


   Ants

Ants are fond of "honeydew" excreted by aphids, mealybugs and certain scales,
and they may protect and move these pests around from plant to plant.  They
are social insects that live in colonies; therefore, insecticides should be
directed to the colonies or nests.  Diazinon, Dursban or Sevin sprays or Amdro
bait are effective controls.  (Amdro is for fire ants only.)
\h 3 'Slugs and Snails'


   Slugs and Snails

Garden slugs and snails are not insects but are injurious to ornamental plants
especially in damp and shady areas.  They feed at night devouring foliage.
Their injury is similar to injury by caterpillars.  Slugs are soft, slimy
creatures and look like snails without shells.  Recommended controls are
Mesurol bait and Metaldehyde sprays or baits.
